When I put together my F6, I forgot to solder one of the signal wire leads to the board. I listened to it for days like that because I was enjoying the amp so much. A chopstick or something plastic will help you diagnose a connection problem real quick.
That's true my friend. Just had a listen again and it sounds really good. This is exciting stuff, should've done it years ago
I wonder if I just moved the cap ever so slightly last night and that's why it started to work. Anyhow, all seems good for now!
Ok, I’ve tried to find a ‘simple’ answer to this, sorry if it exists. I’ve used the amp every evening from Saturday, running it at 500mV with the 0.47ohm resistor in R2. The front and lid are not fitted as yet and it’s been warm, but definitely not hot on the heatsinks. I’ve now upped it to 600mV and as near to 0.0 at offset.
The question; is 600mV the ‘optimum’ to run these at, and what is the benefit over 500mV?
I apologise if this is a stupid question, but at 51, this is my first foray into electronics and so assume (correctly) that I know nothing at all...
Thanks for your patience everyone 🙂
For complete information, I’m running a Rega Mira 3 at the moment as a pre (which I’m hoping to replace with a diy pre soon) and the amp feeds my Snell E/III speakers...
The question; is 600mV the ‘optimum’ to run these at, and what is the benefit over 500mV?
I apologise if this is a stupid question, but at 51, this is my first foray into electronics and so assume (correctly) that I know nothing at all...
Thanks for your patience everyone 🙂
For complete information, I’m running a Rega Mira 3 at the moment as a pre (which I’m hoping to replace with a diy pre soon) and the amp feeds my Snell E/III speakers...
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generally, I mean - really generally - greater the Iq, better the sound (presumably THD Spectra staying the same, but floating down/being lower)
The F6 benefits greatly from replacing Z1 and Z2 with devices that have a negative temperature coefficient. One of the easiest ways to do this is to substitute a string of three mini green LEDs at each location. R7 and R8 also need to be reduced to make sure there is sufficient current through the LEDs. There was a separate thread about this started by 2 picoDumbs, after we were talking about some of the possible ways to get the F6 to reach a stable bias current (and thermal equilibrium) faster than the stock configuration.
I’ve found that having all covers in place really makes a difference when getting bias steady. I base settings on total heat being generated once everything is totally warmed up. Ambient temperature makes a difference too.
Not necessarily the ‘simple’ answer I was expecting, but I think i know what you mean. 😉 After 20 minutes or so, it does sound a little less strained, a little better bass and control. Easier to listen to...?
Cooler King
My personal experience was that 550mV was the point at which my F6 started to sound good. Above 575mV I could not hear any improvement. More bias just increased the heat sink temps. It does take some time for things to heat up and stabilize. I found an inexpensive IR temp gun a really useful investment.
My personal experience was that 550mV was the point at which my F6 started to sound good. Above 575mV I could not hear any improvement. More bias just increased the heat sink temps. It does take some time for things to heat up and stabilize. I found an inexpensive IR temp gun a really useful investment.
PS wiring issue
![20210309_121249[1].jpg](https://www.diyaudio.com/community/data/attachments/835/835699-ef2b8813d2e6827528ebd4bd5c154dae.jpg?hash=7yuIE9Lmgn "20210309_121249[1].jpg")
Working on the F6 in the 4U 500 chassis. Referring to the picture. Can I run the AC wiring under the raised PS Board to the terminal block without spraying AC noise onto the DC side of the PS?
Working on the F6 in the 4U 500 chassis. Referring to the picture. Can I run the AC wiring under the raised PS Board to the terminal block without spraying AC noise onto the DC side of the PS?What fuse should I use for my F6? Got a 400VA transformer with 120V primaries.
400VA/120V ~= 3.5A
3.5A slo-blo?
400VA/120V ~= 3.5A
3.5A slo-blo?
Thanks! Building with the diyaudio PSU design with the two CL60s.
Going with your bias mod btw, three green LEDs and a 3K3 feeding
Thank you for the response to Post 3236. I received a notification and the message on gmail, but it isn't showing up here on the Forum. ItsAllinMyHead looks like the responder. Based on the advise, I plan to poke holes in the perforated panel and run the wires underneath. This project should be done soon. Regards, Bill
Hi HeyBill -
I deleted it b/c like a dodo, I realized that didn't answer the question you had asked. You were (I think) asking how to route your transformer primaries after the terminal block, and I was throwing out ideas re: how to run your AC mains wiring from the IEC to the terminal block. Oops.
Either way, I'm glad that it helped. 🙂
I deleted it b/c like a dodo, I realized that didn't answer the question you had asked. You were (I think) asking how to route your transformer primaries after the terminal block, and I was throwing out ideas re: how to run your AC mains wiring from the IEC to the terminal block. Oops.
Either way, I'm glad that it helped. 🙂