That thought occurred to me, but I figured it was about the same amount of work. 6 of one and half dozen of the other. It isn't like it is hard work to change it again - and I might just do so when it comes time to R&R the kitchen.
Dishwashers always fail on the pump seals and start with a bit of unnoticed weeping. By the time you realize, the water has seeped under your flooring & rotted out the floorboards. It also rots out most of the lower half of the dishwasher making repair nonviable. Last time this happened & I was seeking a replacement I saw the Bosch was fully bunded from the undersink hose connection to the sealed plastic sump and had a water (leak) detector in the sump, I knew this was the dishwasher for me.
If you get notice early enough, the pump alone is cheap to replace.
If you get notice early enough, the pump alone is cheap to replace.
I don't know that that's really a big deal with the Bosch. My old Samsung had the same construction and sensors that you describe, but it was a POS that didn't wash well and didn't last long. This is my 2nd Bosch, watch for a leaky inlet solenoid valve, that's the failure prone part on a Bosch.
The inlet solenoid valve fits to the tap under the sink and is fully sheathed down the hose to the sump.
So if it starts leaking I will still have a dry kitchen and plenty of warning to replace it before the dishwasher rots out.
Maybe all dishwashers are like this now. Neither of my previous ones were and both leaked for a while before I noticed the damp musty smell from under the kitchen cupboards. Had I repaired the old one (which I was tempted to do despite the rust) I would have retro-fitted a water detector warning.
So if it starts leaking I will still have a dry kitchen and plenty of warning to replace it before the dishwasher rots out.
Maybe all dishwashers are like this now. Neither of my previous ones were and both leaked for a while before I noticed the damp musty smell from under the kitchen cupboards. Had I repaired the old one (which I was tempted to do despite the rust) I would have retro-fitted a water detector warning.
Wow. My phone is about the same speed as an AMD FX-6300! My how tech has progressed!
Your upgrade seems to be about 25% faster, not 50%UserBenchmark: AMD Athlon II X4 630 vs FX-6300
Depends on what you are measuring and how you are measuring it...
AMD Athlon II X4 630 vs AMD FX-6300 Six-Core [cpubenchmark.net] by PassMark Software
Maybe that's a European thing, neither Bosch I have owned is like that. On both of mine, including the 1 less than a year old, the solenoid valve is integrated with the inlet water connection housing which is at the front bottom of the washer (EDIT: in other words, the dishwasher end of the hose threads onto the body of the solenoid valve). I assure you when that leaks you will see prodigious amounts of water on the floor.
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I was yakking with my nephew the other night. We agreed that we both wanted to visit Passyunk Avenue (Cleveland Street) again, when the Global Pandemic is over;
HOME PAGE | Passyunk Avenue
London's finest Sporting Bar.
Chicken wings, Beer. Pleasant waitresses. NFL Superbowl 55. Especially Emily, who has us all smitten.
HOME PAGE | Passyunk Avenue
London's finest Sporting Bar.
Chicken wings, Beer. Pleasant waitresses. NFL Superbowl 55. Especially Emily, who has us all smitten.
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Computer rebuilt...
AMD Athlon II X4 630 vs AMD FX-6300 Six-Core [cpubenchmark.net] by PassMark Software
8GB of DDR3 memory, improved onboard graphics. USB 3.1. FX-6300 six core replacing the old overclockers favourite, the Athlon X4 630.
Seems nippy enough. I bought most of the bits second-hand. Pleased with that.
AMD Athlon II X4 630 vs AMD FX-6300 Six-Core [cpubenchmark.net] by PassMark Software
8GB of DDR3 memory, improved onboard graphics. USB 3.1. FX-6300 six core replacing the old overclockers favourite, the Athlon X4 630.
Seems nippy enough. I bought most of the bits second-hand. Pleased with that.
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Maybe mine is unique! The solenoid is at the supply end of the hose and the whole solenoid and hose are fully sheathed into the plastic sump.
So even a split hose (never known of one) would be protected - at least until the sump was full. So provided my supply **** or sealing ring don't leak I'm good.
Just noticed the censored 'c*ck' LOL.
What is the pc term for something that shuts off a water supply?
Or a male bird?
Back to dishwashers, seems to be more special than I realized.
From Google, some manufacturers fit a purely mechanical solution - a drip tray and when it is full it tilts forward thus warning you of the leak via your wet slippers! Ingenious.
I was surprised that side/top panels were an optional extra. Makes sense when most are fitted under worktops and between units.
And, yes, nominal standard size of 600 mm wide, 635 mm deep, and approximately 865 mm high.
What is the pc term for something that shuts off a water supply?
Or a male bird?
Back to dishwashers, seems to be more special than I realized.
From Google, some manufacturers fit a purely mechanical solution - a drip tray and when it is full it tilts forward thus warning you of the leak via your wet slippers! Ingenious.
I was surprised that side/top panels were an optional extra. Makes sense when most are fitted under worktops and between units.
And, yes, nominal standard size of 600 mm wide, 635 mm deep, and approximately 865 mm high.
Odd. I am not your father
I hate my Samsung TV. I avoided Samsung for everything else like the plague, avoided them actively for fridge, washing machine, etc etc.
Hmm Bosch.. dishwasher, washing machine, fridge/freezer, oven, cooker hood, hob, coffee machine, boiler, SDS drill, hand drill, angle grinder, laser line level, cable sensor, car battery charger... I think that may be it.
Another fun one yesterday.
Older (late '60s) electronic organ in a church. Organ console down on the sanctuary floor, 3 channels' worth of speakers & amps in a chamber up above the chancel. Connected by 3 RG-59 high-impedance unbalanced audio lines, 3 4-conductor 12VDC control lines, and 3 2-wire AC cords(!), all in about a 60', 2" conduit.
Problem: One of the 3 audio channels has gone dead. Cable exiting the console shows typical meager AC output with notes played. Climbed into the chamber and switched 2 amp inputs - same group of sounds is still dead, so amp & speakers OK. Pulled the amp input connector on the dead channel, clipped center conductor to shield to short it. Back to console, nope - open circuit.
I could see where the cables entered the pipe beneath the flooring at the organ location - no sign of cuts or pinching. Back up to the chamber, squeezed between 2 fridge-sized speaker boxes to get to the conduit egress. Looks unmolested, EXCEPT! What's this?? A SPLICE in the RG-59 on my dead line! One of those where they skinned back the braids, joined & taped the center conductors, then tack-soldered the braids back together. Well hell, I'll be home in time for dinner after all! I mean, what else could it be?
But something wasn't right. For example, I could push that splice around every which way, and the audio never reappeared, even briefly. After a minute or so I started to wonder if this obvious failure point wasn't the problem after all. But how to know for sure?
Climbed back down to the toolbox, came back with a pair of pliers and a straight pin. Stuck the pin through the center of the coax on the upstream (console) side of the splice. Took a reading across the amp input connector. There's my short, from the pin through the other side of the splice - that damn ugly old splice was just fine. Went back downstairs - still an open circuit on the console end of the line!
It was difficult but not impossible to pull the wires several inches each way in the pipe, so not likely that there are any boxes in the run. Even though the visible splice checked out, its very presence indicated the possibility of a second less-visible, more-defective example back up the line somewhere. No way around it - the cable needs to be replaced.
This is not good news, since it will likely be necessary to pull the whole bundle from the pipe in order to replace the one line. This is because whoever installed this organ was not in the habit of combing the cables before the conduit pull (I've encountered this before); so the run in the pipe is a tangled mess. And since current electrical codes - for good reason - no longer allow (if they ever did!) running low-voltage stuff in the same pipe with AC wiring, I can't put it back together the same way it came apart - the church would also need to have an electrician run a 15-amp circuit & quad receptacle to the chamber area. On the upside, the second pull will be a lot easier with fewer wires in the tube!
As a temp workaround, I jumpered the dead audio channel to one of the live ones, so they are now sharing the same amp & speaker. Not an ideal setup, but certainly a lot cheaper. I have a feeling this may end up to be the permanent solution.
Older (late '60s) electronic organ in a church. Organ console down on the sanctuary floor, 3 channels' worth of speakers & amps in a chamber up above the chancel. Connected by 3 RG-59 high-impedance unbalanced audio lines, 3 4-conductor 12VDC control lines, and 3 2-wire AC cords(!), all in about a 60', 2" conduit.
Problem: One of the 3 audio channels has gone dead. Cable exiting the console shows typical meager AC output with notes played. Climbed into the chamber and switched 2 amp inputs - same group of sounds is still dead, so amp & speakers OK. Pulled the amp input connector on the dead channel, clipped center conductor to shield to short it. Back to console, nope - open circuit.
I could see where the cables entered the pipe beneath the flooring at the organ location - no sign of cuts or pinching. Back up to the chamber, squeezed between 2 fridge-sized speaker boxes to get to the conduit egress. Looks unmolested, EXCEPT! What's this?? A SPLICE in the RG-59 on my dead line! One of those where they skinned back the braids, joined & taped the center conductors, then tack-soldered the braids back together. Well hell, I'll be home in time for dinner after all! I mean, what else could it be?
But something wasn't right. For example, I could push that splice around every which way, and the audio never reappeared, even briefly. After a minute or so I started to wonder if this obvious failure point wasn't the problem after all. But how to know for sure?
Climbed back down to the toolbox, came back with a pair of pliers and a straight pin. Stuck the pin through the center of the coax on the upstream (console) side of the splice. Took a reading across the amp input connector. There's my short, from the pin through the other side of the splice - that damn ugly old splice was just fine. Went back downstairs - still an open circuit on the console end of the line!
It was difficult but not impossible to pull the wires several inches each way in the pipe, so not likely that there are any boxes in the run. Even though the visible splice checked out, its very presence indicated the possibility of a second less-visible, more-defective example back up the line somewhere. No way around it - the cable needs to be replaced.
This is not good news, since it will likely be necessary to pull the whole bundle from the pipe in order to replace the one line. This is because whoever installed this organ was not in the habit of combing the cables before the conduit pull (I've encountered this before); so the run in the pipe is a tangled mess. And since current electrical codes - for good reason - no longer allow (if they ever did!) running low-voltage stuff in the same pipe with AC wiring, I can't put it back together the same way it came apart - the church would also need to have an electrician run a 15-amp circuit & quad receptacle to the chamber area. On the upside, the second pull will be a lot easier with fewer wires in the tube!
As a temp workaround, I jumpered the dead audio channel to one of the live ones, so they are now sharing the same amp & speaker. Not an ideal setup, but certainly a lot cheaper. I have a feeling this may end up to be the permanent solution.
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TBH, I probably have overdone the washers:
Feels a bit high. But adjustable.
But happily, serendipity (good fortune by chance) usually rewards the hard workers. This is why the RAF motto is: "Per Ardua, ad Astra".
While digging around for an engineering solution to my chair, I found some heatsink compound.
What does it mean? Merely that I can now upgrade my 4 core AMD Athlon 630 to a 6 core AMD FX-6300. 50% faster.
EXCELLENT!
The base screws stripped and let go. I couldnt let my favorite chair go to the waste heap.
One new pedestal of 3/4" ply + 1/4" hard maple. Along with 3" deck screws to reach through all 3 ply layers + 3/4 of a bottle of carpenters glue. Its holding perfect now. It reclines swivels raises lowers tilts rolls and rocks. Cant make a sandwich but thats ok.
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shrubs, I think the flash on your camera might need repair. Or get some new lightbulbs!
This has driven me crazy for years. Kettle sometimes works, sometimes doesn't.
How hard can it be? Must be bent copper in the mains connector. Once past the stupid security screws with a drill, I have bent them back into shape.
Excellent. At my age we just hope things will "See us through...."
This has driven me crazy for years. Kettle sometimes works, sometimes doesn't.
How hard can it be? Must be bent copper in the mains connector. Once past the stupid security screws with a drill, I have bent them back into shape.
Excellent. At my age we just hope things will "See us through...."
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I think its the light sensor, the flash works but its not always bright enough. Time for a new phone. Current phone, was dropped too often.
I think I did well on the fix. A clean install and its much much stronger than the single piece of 1/2" of plywood holding clawed threads.
I will demonstrate better this afternoon.
Btw some of the gaming chairs dont look comfortable at all. They are 10/10 on comfort personally. And far less cumbersome.
I think I did well on the fix. A clean install and its much much stronger than the single piece of 1/2" of plywood holding clawed threads.
I will demonstrate better this afternoon.
Btw some of the gaming chairs dont look comfortable at all. They are 10/10 on comfort personally. And far less cumbersome.
