The diyAudio First Watt M2x

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#4,462
Be careful with the SparkFun boards and the dip sockets. As I noted I a previous post (I can’t remember the number just now - baby is keeping me up) the pins of the adapter must be able to fit in the dip sockets you order. If the pins are too small you won’t make a good connection. If the pins are too large they won’t fit in the sockets. In my case the pins were too big and I ended up with a technique to use resistor and cap trimmed leads out of my e-waste bin. It works well but it is a fair amount of work. FYI
 
#4,463
Just a quick reminder that any and every diyAudio member can order Cedarburg and/or IPS6 and/or IPS7 PCBs directly from a PCB fab, and have them shipped straight to your house in your country. It's fun, it's easy, it's inexpensive. And it's also the next step up in maturity as a diyAudio builder.

(link to #4371)

The manufacturing CAD files ("Gerbers") are freely available for download. They are attached to M2x post #3408, for IPS6+7, and to M2x post #4343 for Cedarburg.

Wield your bravery. Try something new, enjoy the thrill of success, learn, and grow.
 
#4,464
PCB shops charge almost the same for 5 pieces or 10 pieces.
So it make sense to order 10.
But since one would only need 2, it makes environmental sense to share within the same country.
Or at least the same continent.

Shipping them across continents from the first destination certainly does not make sense.
It is also a crime for the environment.


Patrick
 
#4,465
Mark Johnson said:
Just a quick reminder that any and every diyAudio member can order Cedarburg and/or IPS6 and/or IPS7 PCBs directly from a PCB fab, and have them shipped straight to your house in your country. It's fun, it's easy, it's inexpensive. And it's also the next step up in maturity as a diyAudio builder.

(link to #4371)

The manufacturing CAD files ("Gerbers") are freely available for download. They are attached to M2x post #3408, for IPS6+7, and to M2x post #4343 for Cedarburg.

Wield your bravery. Try something new, enjoy the thrill of success, learn, and grow.
Click to expand...


Thanks Mark!!

Had a moment where I was going to see who had extra boards to ship—then based on some posts had the realization that likely any such deal would be the same or more $ than just spending $12 on 5 pairs from the fab house. Add a hook to the extra 8—holiday tree ornaments! My designer wife loves the idea (not really), I'll put them on my side of the tree. Or hide them selectively.

Can't wait to give Cedarburgs a listen.
 
#4,466
I am old enough to have read the classified ads in Popular Electronics magazine and Audio magazine**, on the day the mag was released. Way back then it was super common to see "Send SASE" as the final two words of an ad. It meant "send me a Self Addressed, Stamped Envelope and I'll mail you the thing mentioned in the ad, in your envelope" It might be one easy way to get rid of excess small boards AND to make new friends.


**anybody else remember "Personality Court, Indianapolis" from those ads??
 
#4,468
Mark Johnson said:
Patrick / ItsAllInMyHead,

If I were you I would set my power supply for 46 volts and, if it has current limiting, set the current limit pretty low, like 40mA. Apply the positive lead to Pin3 (including the milliammeter) and the negative lead to Pin1. Read the current. I would leave the other pins open and floating.

Why 46 volts? Because the middle of the acceptable supply range for M2 and M2x, is +23V and -23V. Thus 46 volts end to end.

What should the milliammeter say for Norwood at 46 volts total? Somewhere between 8mA and 30mA. If you want to double check these numbers, the mfr datasheets for the two ICs each give a Supply Current specification (range), and you can calculate the current drawn by the bias resistors R1 and R2 using ordinary algebra.
Click to expand...

I have a Siglent unit and I want to test a DB with your recommendation of 46 Volts and low amperage.

i've read the instructions a number of times. Is this right: To set a 46 V output, I put the Siglent into series mode and set to 23 volts and in series that generates 46 Volts? as I am drawing from the combination of Channels 1& 2.

Thanks,
 

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#4,470
General IPS6 question:

I used a PEAK DCA75Pro for matching 100x J113 today. I got 2 foursomes that were same VGS, and 3 sets of 4 that are 0.001 difference in the groups.

Would there be a preference for more or less (-)VGS? These measure as (-), so more (-) or less (-)?

IPS7 for long enough to put the screws in the tops, Cedarburg yesterday ftw �� matched J113 today. Second attempt IPS6 on Tuesday. (Even though no Mardi Gras this year, office still closed - but working tomorrow, Presidents Day, go figure)
 
#4,473
Mark Johnson said:
I am old enough to have read the classified ads in Popular Electronics magazine and Audio magazine**, on the day the mag was released. Way back then it was super common to see "Send SASE" as the final two words of an ad. It meant "send me a Self Addressed, Stamped Envelope and I'll mail you the thing mentioned in the ad, in your envelope" It might be one easy way to get rid of excess small boards AND to make new friends.


**anybody else remember "Personality Court, Indianapolis" from those ads??
Click to expand...

I finally bit the bullet and ordered boards. Not like the old days. Easy and just got notice they shipped. You can teach an old dog new tricks.

Yes, I used to order from Lafayette electronics. Mouser and Digi-key were more like flyers than catalogs.
 
#4,474
Another Lafayette Radio (located in the exotic-to-me town of Syosset, NY) customer checking in. Also Olson Electronics in Florida, Poly-Paks ("no time to test em!"), and Halted Specialties. I successfully assembled Halted's spark generator kit, based on a surplus TV flyback transformer with a real (crappy) 2N3055, from before the days of epitaxy. Boy did that kit hurt me.
 
#4,478
While you wait to find out whether the diyAudio Store answers your question about their plans for the future...

You could make a few Wanted To Buy posts in various Forums here on the site. Delightfully for you, a sizable fraction of M2x buyers only build one set of input daughterboards, usually Ishikawa (because that's the Nelson Pass / First Watt original), but sometimes Tucson (because that's the simplest board with the fewest parts, which doesn't use obsolete Toshiba devices). Those people own Norwood boards which they are NEVER going to use; why not sell or trade them to you? Seems logical.
 
#4,479
@gwrskien - I understand the apprehension. Another possibility is to have someone locally/regionally do the SMD portion of the boards for you. If someone has already built them, it is probable, that they have some or all of the SMD components available in their stash of extra parts. I can only speak for myself, but whenever I order any SMDs, I always order plenty extras. The cost of shipping far outweighs the cost of the parts, and bulk discounts are plentiful. I've also been known to drop a part or two. 🙂 If you were near me, I'd happily do it for you. I hope someone in your area can help you out.

If you do take the leap with the boards from the set, see previous posts / advice for SMD work. I hope you find it more easily done than said.

BTW - I am more than willing to build up some boards for anyone I can ship to easily. I enjoy the Norwood boards myself, and I'd hate to see someone miss out just because of the SMD work.
 
#4,480
@gwrskien PM me if you want some help (seconding Itsallinmyhead—though shipping to US?). Also, you could build IPS6—"virtually indistinguishable" from Norwood in my system—and no SMD—I thought Mark Johnson was being funny—until he confirmed to me that he gave them the secret sauce too. 😀
 
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