A standard build for the universal PSU would include:
- 8x snap-in electrolytic capacitors with at least 15,000uF, 10mm leads and no larger diameter than 35mm
- 8x 0.47 ohm 3 watt through-hole resistors
- 2x 2.2k ohm 3 watt through-hole resistors
- 2x 15k ohm 1/2 Watt through-hole resistors
- 2x through-hole LEDs
- three colors (ideally) of at least 16awg stranded wire to make connection from the rectifier bridges to the board; and from the board to the amp PCBs
- speaking of bridges, it’s probably easier to break off and remove the discrete bridge portion of the PSU PCB and just use two GBPC 30+ amp / 200+ rated bridge rectifiers
- 8x snap-in electrolytic capacitors with at least 15,000uF, 10mm leads and no larger diameter than 35mm
- 8x 0.47 ohm 3 watt through-hole resistors
- 2x 2.2k ohm 3 watt through-hole resistors
- 2x 15k ohm 1/2 Watt through-hole resistors
- 2x through-hole LEDs
- three colors (ideally) of at least 16awg stranded wire to make connection from the rectifier bridges to the board; and from the board to the amp PCBs
- speaking of bridges, it’s probably easier to break off and remove the discrete bridge portion of the PSU PCB and just use two GBPC 30+ amp / 200+ rated bridge rectifiers
Last edited:
Yeah, adding the transformer mostly rounds it out. You’ll also need three CL-60 (or comparable) thermistors. One will be used to connect the PSU ground to the physical chassis. The other two will be used in between your connection from the transformer and the plug-in at the back of chassis (one for ‘line’ and the other for ‘neutral’). A terminal block is handy for that connection. Below are links for those parts. Keep in mind there are many parts and approaches that’ll work for this stuff - these just happen to be parts that I’ve successfully used in the past. 6L6s guides are an invaluable reference for seeing how this stuff all goes together.
Bridge rectifier: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...rs/GBPC3506-E4-51?qs=AvlKB63p5SlFhyf8Na07Rw==
Transformer: AS-4218 - 400VA 18V Transformer - AnTek Products Corp
Thermistor: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-Advanced-Sensors/CL-60?qs=w3gjcs3NwciEQjXGFRAAAA==
Terminal block: 38770-0104 Molex | Mouser
Bridge rectifier: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...rs/GBPC3506-E4-51?qs=AvlKB63p5SlFhyf8Na07Rw==
Transformer: AS-4218 - 400VA 18V Transformer - AnTek Products Corp
Thermistor: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-Advanced-Sensors/CL-60?qs=w3gjcs3NwciEQjXGFRAAAA==
Terminal block: 38770-0104 Molex | Mouser
Last edited:
Do you mean the snubbers?
B/C some would argue that the performance of certain discreet components can be better. The UPS allows for both, so you can choose.
What do you find rudimentary?
Correct (in general).
I think that it's worth noting that the U is for Universal. The options can be daunting, but these boards can be used in a number of configurations for more than just First Watt amplifiers. Keep the questions coming and someone will definitely answer.
Enjoy the build!
Regarding PSU caps.
If you're using the diyaudio boards then the largest cap size is 35mm diameter.
Get 33,000uF snap-in caps or greater that will fit.
If you never plan to ever build an amp using a transformer wither greater than 18V secondaries then 25V caps will be adequate, but having 35V caps will be more future proof, for example if you wanted to reuse the supply on a new amp in the future eg F5 turbo, you would be good to go.
13STOPLOSS et al: We feel your pain. Thats’ why we started this project. But please understand the purpose of this thread. This is not to be the instruction manual. The real benefit of this thread is for the guys building the instruction manual, Flohmann and myself, to ask questions and get feedback on ideas and corrections for the instruction manual. Our intent is that when the instruction manual is finished, you won’t experience the frustrations so many of us have felt. But we’re not there yet. Not even close.
DIY-ers are given the opportunity to build, learn, tinker, experiment and arrive at a truly exceptional sounding amplifier.
It should really be about learning the basics, analysing, thinking, trying different options, tunning the variables to suit your taste / your system. It is a journey, rather than the destination kinda thing, where you are supposed to enjoy all that time spent in learning, identifying little variations, and figuring out how those variations will affect the end result.
It should really be about learning the basics, analysing, thinking, trying different options, tunning the variables to suit your taste / your system. It is a journey, rather than the destination kinda thing, where you are supposed to enjoy all that time spent in learning, identifying little variations, and figuring out how those variations will affect the end result.
It might be worth having a mod update the title. I can understand how someone might think it is the guide, especially if they’re unfamiliar with this site (or skip the first page.)
Here's the BOM parts cart link from Mouser that @alanhuth went with (this is for two amp boards plus a PSU). As with everything until we're done, consider this a draft, subject to revision for the dumb mistakes we're likely to make.
In fact, I already see that we probably should have ordered these larger PSU caps (27,000uf) instead of the ones we did (18,000uf), sigh.
Anyone else spot any mistakes that we made?
In fact, I already see that we probably should have ordered these larger PSU caps (27,000uf) instead of the ones we did (18,000uf), sigh.
Anyone else spot any mistakes that we made?
Also, can anyone confidently recommend set of multi-colored hookup wire that would work for the Aleph J? I'm guessing most noob builders will want a set of multiple colors like this (22AWG, stranded, 6 colors, 25ft of each). Is 22AWG good for everything, or do the high-voltage AC connections have to be larger gauge?
Your link pointed me to a solid core wire. I'd recommend stranded similar to your description for ease of use / bending. As for AWG and wire type along with insulation materials, you'll get a lot of opinions re: choices.
I've used 16AWG stranded for AC Mains; 22AWG for rails and speaker level; and repurposed CatX twisted pairs for input signal. I've also tried some 30AWG for input signal, but it was fiddly to work with. In general, it can be nice to have a Teflon or some other non-branded type of Fluorocarbon / PTFE insulation for temp resistance etc. (wayward soldering irons).
Below is what I used. It is a bit pricy (IMO), but it was easy to work with. I'm sure there are comparable options out there.
Hook Up Wire, 16 AWG, PTFE, Stranded Kit, 25''' ea | Remington Industries
Hook Up Wire, 22 AWG, PTFE, Stranded Kit, 25''' ea | Remington Industries
This is the smaller input signal wiring I tried instead of CatX remnants.
R30R-0100 Jonard Industries | Mouser
I source from Apex Jr as well. Mil-spec, silver coated copper, solid or stranded, teflon insulation, choice of colors & gauge.
Russellc