I've got these (just PCB) for testing. I might do custom PCB later on.
PS. Är du från/i Stockholm?
Crazy amp dreams
I’m in Sundbyberg, but our office is in Munchenbryggeriet (before Corona).
I got the PCBs only since the russian build thread showed a lot of fakes. In China you get what you pay for most of the times but I think that even the serious local shops get scammed.
The power filter pcb and the fake caps is a joke, I’m thinking rolling my own. Not sure you need 6 times 22 000uF unless you are running near clipping all the time. These are almost $100 each so $1200 in just caps. I would rather spend $1200 on DIY high sensitive speakers and run them lower than spend $1200 on caps. Then again I’m not a car audio guy
Not sure I like relays I would rather have the relays to ground and perhaps use a digital way to monitor high currents over a shunt as protection instead.
I like the glass lid but I did not order a chassi. The principle of letting noise OUT is fair. When I went on EMC course and we shielded the entire PCB, noise got worse. You shield the source only and leave the rest. I’m thinking epoxi and carbonfiber case (I’ve watched too many Youtube videos).
And I’m thinking watercooled, just don’t see the point of so much junk (heatsinks) and it barely manages to do the job. But its Saturday and gloomy and I can keep dreaming.
I’m in Sundbyberg, but our office is in Munchenbryggeriet (before Corona).
I got the PCBs only since the russian build thread showed a lot of fakes. In China you get what you pay for most of the times but I think that even the serious local shops get scammed.
The power filter pcb and the fake caps is a joke, I’m thinking rolling my own. Not sure you need 6 times 22 000uF unless you are running near clipping all the time. These are almost $100 each so $1200 in just caps. I would rather spend $1200 on DIY high sensitive speakers and run them lower than spend $1200 on caps. Then again I’m not a car audio guy
Not sure I like relays I would rather have the relays to ground and perhaps use a digital way to monitor high currents over a shunt as protection instead.
I like the glass lid but I did not order a chassi. The principle of letting noise OUT is fair. When I went on EMC course and we shielded the entire PCB, noise got worse. You shield the source only and leave the rest. I’m thinking epoxi and carbonfiber case (I’ve watched too many Youtube videos).
And I’m thinking watercooled, just don’t see the point of so much junk (heatsinks) and it barely manages to do the job. But its Saturday and gloomy and I can keep dreaming.
https://m.fr.aliexpress.com/item/32...a9B2k4uKivjlEFUw8_51zAIjzZeU1K8EQJFLZiDQWM03w
Hello
greetings to everyone building this Dartzeel amplifier have ordered PCBS
warm regards
Andrew
Hello
greetings to everyone building this Dartzeel amplifier have ordered PCBS
warm regards
Andrew
Hello Andrew,
I built it with some modification documented on some posts of mine and I'm very satisfied.
I chose this amp because of absence of feedback loop departing from the speaker output, it was the only one of its kind you could find on eBay and Ali. I chose it even because it is very simple to be modified as I intended to, able to drive any speaker with around 40Vrms on 8Ohms (200W).
It works very good, so damn good that I ordered some more pcb that I will populate with top quality components; resistors will be PRP PR9372 (the 0.5W ones) and Kiwame (the >2W ones), I have not chosen yet the capacitors (will accept suggestions - thanks).
You read a lot of posts for sure, I just want to point out some Domenico80's posts about front-end transistors (I will go for NPN/PNP array) and 3SSS' posts about a very interesting mod to the gain stage in order to obtain a Baxandall superpair.
I built it with some modification documented on some posts of mine and I'm very satisfied.
I chose this amp because of absence of feedback loop departing from the speaker output, it was the only one of its kind you could find on eBay and Ali. I chose it even because it is very simple to be modified as I intended to, able to drive any speaker with around 40Vrms on 8Ohms (200W).
It works very good, so damn good that I ordered some more pcb that I will populate with top quality components; resistors will be PRP PR9372 (the 0.5W ones) and Kiwame (the >2W ones), I have not chosen yet the capacitors (will accept suggestions - thanks).
You read a lot of posts for sure, I just want to point out some Domenico80's posts about front-end transistors (I will go for NPN/PNP array) and 3SSS' posts about a very interesting mod to the gain stage in order to obtain a Baxandall superpair.
Can you post pictures of them, please?
I purchased also from eBay for transistors this project.
Thank you
DY294? Did get a china transistor tester to seek out fake china transistors? I’m sure eBay transistors might be fake, but how would you know using DY294? Just get your stuff from Mouser.
Kiwame are perhaps the worst, most coloured sounding resistors i have ever heard.
I wonder why would someone like you buy boards from Ali? Or transistors from ebay? Mysteries
Agree Kiwame is a very bad choice for Dartzeel.Kiwame are perhaps the worst, most coloured sounding resistors i have ever heard.
I wonder why would someone like you buy boards from Ali? Or transistors from ebay? Mysteries
I wonder why would someone like you buy boards from Ali? Or transistors from ebay? Mysteries
If I’m going to spend time soldering my own boards that time is worth more than anything I could ever spend on components. Any notion or suspicion is enough for me to avoid buying components from Ali or eBay. I would love to have matched components without doing it myself - but if you cant trust someone about fakes how would you trust the to match it for you??
Analog_sa do you know a European or US source for Dartzeel boards? I don’t think “study copy” is legal term in Common Law nor Civil Law.
Aleph X vs DarTZeel
I wonder if any of you have heard the difference between Aleph X or Dartzeel .ALEPH-X - Pass Labs Clone Class-A amplifier PCB & schematic
It uses similar desing philosophies. Unfortunately my electronic skills are to basic to explain the two designs, what they share in common and how they are different. I’m hoping people in this thread might shed some light on the topic.
I wonder if any of you have heard the difference between Aleph X or Dartzeel .ALEPH-X - Pass Labs Clone Class-A amplifier PCB & schematic
It uses similar desing philosophies. Unfortunately my electronic skills are to basic to explain the two designs, what they share in common and how they are different. I’m hoping people in this thread might shed some light on the topic.
Here are the (bad) kiwimes, the amplifier is not inferior to the original in terms of measurements.
also as sound, if you use Vishay BC series capacitors, 22,000 micro / 63 volts
108 boards / PCBs can also be purchased in China with components to be soldered, so you can buy them, cost less, and check the components. If someone is not convinced, they buy similar products from Mouser
to hope to start understanding something, IN MY OPINION, one has to use the same capacitor in the filter cell, the same Graetz bridge and the same transformer or, at least, made by the same craftsman.
Then, accept the cards as they are or have been conceived and purchased. Perhaps you can start a comparison.
We consider that ALL hifi electronics are designed and built TO THE MANUFACTURER'S PERSONAL TASTE, such as the 108 which has been fitted with a single-track to reference speaker, and it feels good that it may have been done with a single-track
My PCB layout skills are nonexistent so I would just end up with noisy boards. I do know a guy that might help out, so I got the chinese PCB as an inspiration. Is the layout on Ali any good in your opinion?
Can you post pictures of them, please?
I purchased also from eBay for transistors this project.
Thank you
from left to right: mouser - 108 board - eBay
