Frank!
Thanks very much for your inputs. I read your documentation (not the whole but most of—until now)
I'll have a look at my options concerning dual controllers (although I am more on the minimal side, but on the other hand I'm Swiss, we've got an affinity for gears ;-) ) It will take some time until I'm there.
david
Just listed the two (2) boards and chip for this in the Swap Meet forum. Save you a few $$ and immediate availability.
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap-meet/354759-fs-muse-electronic-volume-remote.html#post6211521
Thanks.
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap-meet/354759-fs-muse-electronic-volume-remote.html#post6211521
Thanks.
I have been looking and reading some about the muses72320.
Right now i have a salas dcb1 buffer/preamp with a noble potentiometer. I would like to get a remote and i was almost set on a TKD motorized potentiometer. But now im leaning against the muses72320.
The problem is i dont like messing around with software or soldering smd.
I have been looking at a kit from the states but i'm in europe, so shipment is crazy high.
Can you recommend a kit that i should look further into?
Right now i have a salas dcb1 buffer/preamp with a noble potentiometer. I would like to get a remote and i was almost set on a TKD motorized potentiometer. But now im leaning against the muses72320.
The problem is i dont like messing around with software or soldering smd.
I have been looking at a kit from the states but i'm in europe, so shipment is crazy high.
Can you recommend a kit that i should look further into?
Muses power.
Here's a rig I cooked up (with help from 6L6) for powering the Meldano boards which specifies 15VDC+/- @100mA nominal, per Meldano (sans LED display which needs an additional 5VDC).
I have 2 runs of 12VDC available with some overhead on my Brosky Aikido PSU and used this converter to make some 15VDC+/-. There are a couple of different voltage conversion options in the line—and perhaps others—I stopped looking when I found the solution for my preamp situation. The input range is 9-18VDC. I followed the cap recommendations from the sample circuit schematic in the datasheet (which wasn't drawn for bi-polar). In the pics I'm supplying 12VDC from a bench supply to test. Nothing blew up!
Can't wait to try out a muses volume with remote.
Here's a rig I cooked up (with help from 6L6) for powering the Meldano boards which specifies 15VDC+/- @100mA nominal, per Meldano (sans LED display which needs an additional 5VDC).
I have 2 runs of 12VDC available with some overhead on my Brosky Aikido PSU and used this converter to make some 15VDC+/-. There are a couple of different voltage conversion options in the line—and perhaps others—I stopped looking when I found the solution for my preamp situation. The input range is 9-18VDC. I followed the cap recommendations from the sample circuit schematic in the datasheet (which wasn't drawn for bi-polar). In the pics I'm supplying 12VDC from a bench supply to test. Nothing blew up!
Can't wait to try out a muses volume with remote.
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Looks good. My Muses still works great. You may have to try more than one remote before it will "learn" it, I had to try three different ones. I also drilled a hole in the face plate and located the IR receiver inside. It still has excellent reception at angles and across the room.
Hi, I see the use of DC/DC converters i.e. "switchers". Please note that this device will perform as well as its power supply more than your usual device because it is a sensitive volume control. My advice is to use a symmetric mini ultra low noise PSU for absolute best results. 78xx/79xx and LM317/337 will get the job done but there are better regs available. Some excellent like LT3045 and LT3094 and some acceptable like for instance TPS7A4901 and TPS7A3001. Power consumption of the device is minimal and so the PSU can be very small as well.
Using a mediocre PSU somewhat defies the sense of building an excellent volume control...
Using a mediocre PSU somewhat defies the sense of building an excellent volume control...
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Right I wouldn't use a switching PSU to power the Muse.
Linear PSU is more appropriated here.
I used TPS7A4901 + TPS7A3001 in the UGS Muse original design and indeed a good choice, now switched to TPS7A39 in my latest UGSD and this later one is also a good option, all integrated in one package. A bit more difficult to mount thought.
Linear PSU is more appropriated here.
I used TPS7A4901 + TPS7A3001 in the UGS Muse original design and indeed a good choice, now switched to TPS7A39 in my latest UGSD and this later one is also a good option, all integrated in one package. A bit more difficult to mount thought.
I see LT3045/LT3094 regs are available on eBay for not much money. I assume you would use a basic unregulated +- 20V power supply to feed it?
I want to see pics of the plexiglass - I wasn't sure how to implement a lens in front of the receiver. Here's a pic of the Micro-Seiki!
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This is the kind of response I was hoping for—Thanks!—something to further my understanding and thinking. So—Basically this comes down to the regulation quality of my existing 12V supply and it's regulator part (and filtering in the circuit it's part of and "noise" that it may impart to muses) Vs. the more modern part(s) you are referencing within a standalone PSU circuit—DIY'd, sourced ebay or otherwise.
I'm trying to avoid adding another transformer to my preamp "just for volume" (space is an issue since I made the case as small as possible—Post #624 if anyone is interested). I don't have the experience—listening—to know what any of it means yet—in my system—so was looking for the simplest solution to try out some electronic volume control even if not perfectly optimized....yet.
@McQuaide: SERIOUSLY nice. 3 arms. Love it. (Will probably end up building another plinth for my SP-10MK2 for a second arm)—How does the Jelco stack up? (And what carts you got there? Don't get me started—and we shouldn't derail this thread.)
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A bit yes but nothing visible on the latest distorsion measurements i did on my latest design vs the TPS7A3001/4901.
Question about procedure or maybe there's an "official" part or process for jumpers in this teeny SMD environment? Re: the Meldano Muses boards—Should I just make a solder bridge? Micro piece of wire? Just curious if there is some preferred method for jumpering pads. J1/J2.
Oh—and that Muses critter? WOW. WAY FUN, but seriously stressful to put in place—ZERO margin of error for initial placement. Fine wick is the trick I think. It's a bit of a heat sink too. Package stated that the peak body temperature is 260C!
Oh—and that Muses critter? WOW. WAY FUN, but seriously stressful to put in place—ZERO margin of error for initial placement. Fine wick is the trick I think. It's a bit of a heat sink too. Package stated that the peak body temperature is 260C!
OKAY! Total Meldano-Muses-Magic success after diagnostics due to some LOUD hum in the right channel, music was playing but very faint. ONE channel was perfect even after switching all channels around—so I knew something must be off on my Meldano work—and sure enough I found a not quite connected leg or two on the muses chip (challenging to solder by hand). Bit of solder, bit of wick, reinstall—and WOW—perfect.
I set the min volume and then the Apple remote programmed on the first try! (Key here, i think, is to hold the encoder in WHILE powering on). Can't say I've ever had a remote work on the first try.
BRILLIANT. An Aikido with a remote? Yes, it CAN get better
.
ZERO noise with the switcher power widget. (truth be told I scoped it noob-style under load INs and OUTs with bench supply and all I saw was "stuff" in the 17-30 megahertz range...No clue what would happen with actual preamp supply—I suppose I should scope it again to see if I see anything—initial powerup with bench supply was a sonic disaster—things were WAY improved once I powered the swticher from the Aikido PSU. There has been some great learning here...)
Gut tells me Muses is an improvement over the resistor hacked linear TKD I had in there (Which btw, I felt was better than ALPs blues which were the only pots I've use so far). I'll know the real story tomorrow when I put it jury-rigged into the main system which has very sensitive speaks. Meldano has a great design here IMO. (And Aikido and F5 are a very nice combo I think.)
I set the min volume and then the Apple remote programmed on the first try! (Key here, i think, is to hold the encoder in WHILE powering on). Can't say I've ever had a remote work on the first try.
BRILLIANT. An Aikido with a remote? Yes, it CAN get better
.ZERO noise with the switcher power widget. (truth be told I scoped it noob-style under load INs and OUTs with bench supply and all I saw was "stuff" in the 17-30 megahertz range...No clue what would happen with actual preamp supply—I suppose I should scope it again to see if I see anything—initial powerup with bench supply was a sonic disaster—things were WAY improved once I powered the swticher from the Aikido PSU. There has been some great learning here...)
Gut tells me Muses is an improvement over the resistor hacked linear TKD I had in there (Which btw, I felt was better than ALPs blues which were the only pots I've use so far). I'll know the real story tomorrow when I put it jury-rigged into the main system which has very sensitive speaks. Meldano has a great design here IMO. (And Aikido and F5 are a very nice combo I think.)
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Final lens implementation—came out pretty good—Had some 1/2" rod laying about. Cut it by hand and quickly ran through the sanding grits—and then dremel polishing—goes fast. Filled the inner cavity with some foam to black it out. Might try some black rod at some point—but for now it's pretty "not there" using clear, with a bit of matte haze. This is all perhaps easier in a wood front.
Muses does sound better in the main system. It's not my imagination after a bunch of records this am. Clarity, precision—highly subjective I'd imagine—but the already quiet system is a hair quieter too—fell like I'm getting even more music. Old apple remote is just killer (makes family happy too).
