It does seem to have everything in one neat package though, which helps to fit into a smaller chassis. I would have used an IEC panel mount socket myself, but I'm cutting all holes by hand in the 3mm thick panel. Round is way easier to cut without the right tools. But with a die grinder, the IEC units would be easy. Man, I wish I had a drill press.
Yes John, square holes are the bain of my life too. Hence using a Neutrik PowerCon Connector in my Whammy.
Here is another two stage filtered IEC inlet that is cheaper, DD14 series -
3-103-777 | Schurter,2A,250 V ac Screw Mount Filtered IEC Connector 3-103-777 | RS Components
We could try and make out own filters with the values in the spec sheets. Nice to have everything in one tidy unit though.
Here is another two stage filtered IEC inlet that is cheaper, DD14 series -
3-103-777 | Schurter,2A,250 V ac Screw Mount Filtered IEC Connector 3-103-777 | RS Components
We could try and make out own filters with the values in the spec sheets. Nice to have everything in one tidy unit though.
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Nice to have them in the shielded container though...makes things just a little easier and neater. I'm getting old enough to appreciate that sometimes it makes more sense use your time wisely...and that's one of those places for me.
Now I see how this works. The whole DIY thing is addictive...or maybe obsessive. I can see I'll be building a 3rd version...wood side panels, metal for top, bottom, and rear done by CNC at Panel Express..powder coated...and incorporating everything I've been experiencing in the last couple weeks. Good thing too...because my normal activity of photography is kinda dead right now.
I'm actually admiring the simplicity of the circuit. One of the things I learned about tube gear is that simplicity is one of the reasons it sounds good...less stuff in the signal path. So I'm thinking about a minimal approach. But definitely work on the cosmetics. I mean, you can't do it all in one try...need to leave room for v4 and v5. And definitely work on pics too.Yep Uber Whammy build -
Custom case.
Custom Toroid
IEC filter.
Matched mosfets
CapMX supply output stage.
Discrete Regs for op-amp.
Discrete op-amp.
Headphone protection.
Muses Volume control.
Too much I agree for a simple fun project, but it would all pay off
Re: line filters:
For pre-amps, I am using a 0.6 A version. It helps to be on 230V mains; that way, the 0.6 A version is also still sufficient for small tube power amps ...
I second what avdesignguru said about the lower-rated filters having better filtering capability ... it's actually in the data sheet
Here's a link to the 0.6 A version of the Schurter line filter for reference:
Security Check
You can mount that on a small perf board, solder the AC wires to the pins of the filter, and mount the perf board with stand-offs ...
Best regards,
Claas
For pre-amps, I am using a 0.6 A version. It helps to be on 230V mains; that way, the 0.6 A version is also still sufficient for small tube power amps ...
I second what avdesignguru said about the lower-rated filters having better filtering capability ... it's actually in the data sheet
Here's a link to the 0.6 A version of the Schurter line filter for reference:
Security Check
You can mount that on a small perf board, solder the AC wires to the pins of the filter, and mount the perf board with stand-offs ...
Best regards,
Claas
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I have a Whammy board. I was planning to install it in a preamp. I was wondering how easy it would be use the Whammy's power supply to power the preamp components. The other components have +/- 15V or +12V power requirements. I could increase the torrid transformer to 50VA size to accommodate.
What is your output bias?
I bought the 80mm tall heatsinks version instead of the 53mm one. It was even cheaper at mouser, go figure.
Then I took the road "it can't hurt" a bit too far
Even the burson V6 has its own shielding+mini heatsinks wired back to ground.
Oh and I used leftover of that great thermal paste "GC Extreme" from my previous PC build.. overkill I know, i need another project ( about to order everything for a 12"/6.5"/1"+wg 3 way.
I bought the 80mm tall heatsinks version instead of the 53mm one. It was even cheaper at mouser, go figure.
Then I took the road "it can't hurt" a bit too far
Even the burson V6 has its own shielding+mini heatsinks wired back to ground.
Oh and I used leftover of that great thermal paste "GC Extreme" from my previous PC build.. overkill I know, i need another project ( about to order everything for a 12"/6.5"/1"+wg 3 way.
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The output transistors are actually fine at the stock bias. They run warm, but not uncomfortably hot. On the other hand, the regulators run very warm...too hot I think. You can't touch the tops of the heatsinks for more about 2 seconds. And in the Galaxy 2U chassis I'm using, there's enough room to go taller, even though I've elevated the board by 3/4" to accommodate putting the 2 caps near the opamp underneath the board. They're just too close to have access to the opamp.What is your output bias?
I bought the 80mm tall heatsinks version instead of the 53mm one. It was even cheaper at mouser, go figure.
Then I took the road "it can't hurt" a bit too far
Even the burson V6 has its own shielding+mini heatsinks wired back to ground.
Oh and I used leftover of that great thermal paste "GC Extreme" from my previous PC build.. overkill I know, i need another project ( about to order everything for a 12"/6.5"/1"+wg 3 way.
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John what is your transformer secondary voltage? If it's 18 - 22V then you are dissipating too many volts through the regs. If you're using 15V regs with 22V secondary, then you are wasting around 13V in the regs. Don't waste volts.
It would be healthier for the parts to replace the transformer with lower secondaries or find a way to eat some volts before the 78/79XX regs such as a pre-reg or multiplier circuit .
Or, find an op-amp that will operate with higher voltages and run on higher rails.
Or, split the supply and run the output stage at 20V and the op-amp at 15V with separate regs
It would be healthier for the parts to replace the transformer with lower secondaries or find a way to eat some volts before the 78/79XX regs such as a pre-reg or multiplier circuit .
Or, find an op-amp that will operate with higher voltages and run on higher rails.
Or, split the supply and run the output stage at 20V and the op-amp at 15V with separate regs
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Same here, got a 22v transformer, and i dropped the output resistors from 10 to 6.8ohms. The regs are very hot indeed.
I pondered increasing the resistances or the CRCRC network to have less voltage sweat on the regs and have better mains filtering.
I checked the rail voltages before regs, and there is virtually no voltage drop when goign extremely loud on 150ohms cans.
So I think this option is the easiest one if you don't want to change too much on your existing build.
I pondered increasing the resistances or the CRCRC network to have less voltage sweat on the regs and have better mains filtering.
I checked the rail voltages before regs, and there is virtually no voltage drop when goign extremely loud on 150ohms cans.
So I think this option is the easiest one if you don't want to change too much on your existing build.
So it sounds like the 15v transformer would be a better choice. I understand what passive420 is saying about wasting voltage. But I thought I was safe going with the original recommendations. So between the lower voltage and slightly bigger heatsinks, the regulators should be in better shape.
John, depending on your op-amp, a cheaper option is to try 18V regs, with no LED. Quite a few OPA op-amps will go to 18V rails - it will eat 3V or so, which will help. Then just strap some more metal to the regs.
Yeah, never understood why the standard BOM would suggest 22V transformers, maybe Wayne wanted to give everybody plenty of headroom to experiment or possibly it was just what he had on hand for the proto build.
Yeah, never understood why the standard BOM would suggest 22V transformers, maybe Wayne wanted to give everybody plenty of headroom to experiment or possibly it was just what he had on hand for the proto build.