Sense the preamp is phase-inverting. Can you invert the phase of the wires from the board to the RCA connector to get the correct absolute phase?
Yes, good eye!
I bought one in the past for a build that didn't follow through.
As I started the B1 build.. thought it would make it for a very functional unit together (which it did).
Only caveat is that since the Nutube is so microphonic, taming the ringing was a bit of a challenge... but now with all the damping material it is a non-issue.
BG NX 47 uf 6.3 v
Yes this is the best result so far. Black Gate 47 uf NX as output capacitor.
Yes this is the best result so far. Black Gate 47 uf NX as output capacitor.
Has anyone tried building this B1 with BF862's, in case we have matching pairs, hope we don't need R1 (could be jumpered) for the circuit.
Hi! Where to you find those products? I've looked on maximintegrated.com and it's certainly not consumer friendly.
Are there input switchers that you others might recommend for their transparency? I don't need a remote.
Hi,
I used the one recommended by the excellent Jim / 6L6, you may want to read my post 2366 for exact reference and size... it is quite small and perhaps not the easiest to solder, but works perfectly and is affordable, allows 3 sources etc.
Link to the post... all credits to Jim/6L6
B1 with Korg Triode
I hope this helps
Claude
I used the one recommended by the excellent Jim / 6L6, you may want to read my post 2366 for exact reference and size... it is quite small and perhaps not the easiest to solder, but works perfectly and is affordable, allows 3 sources etc.
Link to the post... all credits to Jim/6L6
B1 with Korg Triode
I hope this helps
Claude
No that is not the "Maxim" we are referring. Maxim is an individual that distributes these volume and input selection boards...he mentioned that he is setting up in the Vendor Bazaar for broader selling of his products.
How many inputs do you need? If just 2, then you can use a DPDT or 4PDT switch...
If you need more, you can look at some multi position rotary switches such as the one ClaudeG recommends.
Sonically, I think any decently built switch should be fine!
Itsikhefez, I like your cabinets (post 4594). Are they available through one of the supply houses or another vendor?
Thanks
Thanks
drpro,
The B1 is in a Parmetal series 20, specifically 20-12082N (12x8x2 in, Natural finish).
By default, these come with a front panel frame and blank panel, and the rear panel is fixed. Since I was planning on getting panels through Front Panel Express, I ordered it with frames for both front and rear, without any blank panels.
These are ordered direct through Parmetal's website.
The PSU is in a Hammond series 1455.. these come in many sizes/colors and are available through many vendors, such as Mouser, Digikey, Hawk etc.
The B1 is in a Parmetal series 20, specifically 20-12082N (12x8x2 in, Natural finish).
By default, these come with a front panel frame and blank panel, and the rear panel is fixed. Since I was planning on getting panels through Front Panel Express, I ordered it with frames for both front and rear, without any blank panels.
These are ordered direct through Parmetal's website.
The PSU is in a Hammond series 1455.. these come in many sizes/colors and are available through many vendors, such as Mouser, Digikey, Hawk etc.
I've got a bad one then...it will ring continuously. Weird though, it varies depending on which equipment it's paired with.
Examples:
Pearl II -> B1 Korg -> FW M2 = No problems.
NuVista Vinyl -> B1 Korg -> FW M2 = low rumble sound.
VPI traveler -> (built in phono) -> B1 Korg -> Forte M 4 = continuous ringing.
Pearl II -> B1 Korg -> Quad 405 = Screams like a siren. (I mean loud!)
I'll give some different damping materials a try. At the moment the only damping installed is some packaging foam underneath.
Hi all...
I am building a Korg Nu Tube Preamp according to the Pass Plan, and all parts and boards from the DIY Audio Store.
This preamp will go in front of a passive line level crossover...using inductors and capacitors. There will be a high frequency output for the tweeter channel and a low frequency output for the woofer channel.
there will be a master volume control in front of the preamp channels. But I would like to trim the gain of each high and low channel separatly. So the signal would go from master volume control to pots after the master volume control to the pre amp channels to adjust the signal to each channel. This way I can adjust Tweeter level and Woofer level to taste.
My question is: how would I do this??? if Master Volume control is say 20k, what should value of following trim pots be? and how connected?
the "adjusting" pots could not go at the output of the preamp because they would change the output impedence of the preamp and alter the response of the crossover filter at different levels...
Thanks in advance for any help on this.
I am building a Korg Nu Tube Preamp according to the Pass Plan, and all parts and boards from the DIY Audio Store.
This preamp will go in front of a passive line level crossover...using inductors and capacitors. There will be a high frequency output for the tweeter channel and a low frequency output for the woofer channel.
there will be a master volume control in front of the preamp channels. But I would like to trim the gain of each high and low channel separatly. So the signal would go from master volume control to pots after the master volume control to the pre amp channels to adjust the signal to each channel. This way I can adjust Tweeter level and Woofer level to taste.
My question is: how would I do this??? if Master Volume control is say 20k, what should value of following trim pots be? and how connected?
the "adjusting" pots could not go at the output of the preamp because they would change the output impedence of the preamp and alter the response of the crossover filter at different levels...
Thanks in advance for any help on this.
I believe you'd need want a buffer between the Master Volume and Trim Volume controls. Otherwise, the output impedance of the master volume would load the trim pots causing problems.
Perhaps you may want to consider 2 pots at the output of the B1K, leading to your 2 filters?
The output of the B1K is between 160 and 300R ish depending on the fets you use, so you could potentialy use a 5K pot at the output, or even less. You want is as low as possible as I don't know what input impedance your filters will have, but that needs tp be very high for a filter, say at anything between 10k and 100kish, other wise you will need a kind of buffer at the input.
Just thinking loud, never done this, I guess most people would adjust the required level once once for all in their filter already adjusting levels between bass and treble, as is done in LS Xover?
Good luck
Claude
The output of the B1K is between 160 and 300R ish depending on the fets you use, so you could potentialy use a 5K pot at the output, or even less. You want is as low as possible as I don't know what input impedance your filters will have, but that needs tp be very high for a filter, say at anything between 10k and 100kish, other wise you will need a kind of buffer at the input.
Just thinking loud, never done this, I guess most people would adjust the required level once once for all in their filter already adjusting levels between bass and treble, as is done in LS Xover?
Good luck
Claude
Thanks for your answers...
I find it a nice advantage to change the tweeter and woofer levels...some recordings need a little more bass, some a little more treble...
Can the intrinsic gain of the korg pre amp be adjusted with a pot?? Thats what I do with my BOSOZ.
I find it a nice advantage to change the tweeter and woofer levels...some recordings need a little more bass, some a little more treble...
Can the intrinsic gain of the korg pre amp be adjusted with a pot?? Thats what I do with my BOSOZ.