Unfortunately, the ECQP(Z) series was discontinued in 2008, so I used some of my reserve stock for the B1 Korg mods.
I already told ya - Pa's Iron is cranked!!
in any case more than I'm used to , keeping my finer tip equipped one usually at 365-370C
chisel tip equipped one - I'm using it anywhere from 370-480C , depending what I'm soldering and how fast I need to do that
Been soldering for 50+ years, not strictly doing it by the manuals, which were mostly written a long time ago for wire on lug or turret post connections that need some preheating. SN63 Kester or (in the old days) Ersin Multicore solder have been my choices. I typically use a hotter 2mm conical tip on a temp controlled grounded 30W iron (390-400C) and a grounded antistatic work mat.
I find a hotter iron for less time works better for me, touching the iron, component lead and solder together simultaneously. Solder must flow immediately or I quickly remove the iron and try again. Even these old eyes can see the solder get sucked into the hole when it is done right, trying not to apply heat for more than 3 seconds if possible. I sometimes need to crank the heat up a bit more for component leads that are connecting to a heavy ground plane.
I then flip the board untrimmed leads side down, examine the topside of the thru holes for evidence of some blooming of the solder making it through the board hole to the topside and then use the iron tip to stroke away any excess solder downward and out on the leads below to make for a minor reflow and cleaner, closer lead trimming. An aluminum heat sink clip on semiconductor and diode leads, as well as a grounded wrist strap for sensitive components, gives me extra peace of mind.
I find a hotter iron for less time works better for me, touching the iron, component lead and solder together simultaneously. Solder must flow immediately or I quickly remove the iron and try again. Even these old eyes can see the solder get sucked into the hole when it is done right, trying not to apply heat for more than 3 seconds if possible. I sometimes need to crank the heat up a bit more for component leads that are connecting to a heavy ground plane.
I then flip the board untrimmed leads side down, examine the topside of the thru holes for evidence of some blooming of the solder making it through the board hole to the topside and then use the iron tip to stroke away any excess solder downward and out on the leads below to make for a minor reflow and cleaner, closer lead trimming. An aluminum heat sink clip on semiconductor and diode leads, as well as a grounded wrist strap for sensitive components, gives me extra peace of mind.
Well I tried many many approach
Own about 6 solder irons in then finally fx 951 ,bmaybe went through many rolls of solder and types too . Yes one of the solder I tried is multicore and got my education finally from a buddy who sell flux for a living .
There is a correct procedure
Flux is important ,
Cleaning is important
Right range of temperature is important
Size vs watt vs temperature
For production ... Sound is not the main criteria , it's the failure rates . How many percent by the thousands pcb per day operators solder .and of course wave soldering also . There is an application supervisor who go around monitoring and adjusting parameter
They absolutely hate unleaded ! Waste of energy, bad sound , high rejects very difficult to spec
They are Japs commercial audio factories btw .
They do pick the right kind .. and so long the sound is good enough ..
Well after that I have my own realisations ..and I also have my favourite set of parameters ..and they do affect final sound . Initial and final sound is definitely different...I generally compare them after 1500 hours above
Spec wise ..leaded solder is 280 to 360
Unleaded 380 to 450
Wave is alot lower temp
Depending on parts, flux ,
So I'm pretty sure ...every production line have their ways to balance it ...
Own about 6 solder irons in then finally fx 951 ,bmaybe went through many rolls of solder and types too . Yes one of the solder I tried is multicore and got my education finally from a buddy who sell flux for a living .
There is a correct procedure
Flux is important ,
Cleaning is important
Right range of temperature is important
Size vs watt vs temperature
For production ... Sound is not the main criteria , it's the failure rates . How many percent by the thousands pcb per day operators solder .and of course wave soldering also . There is an application supervisor who go around monitoring and adjusting parameter
They absolutely hate unleaded ! Waste of energy, bad sound , high rejects very difficult to spec
They are Japs commercial audio factories btw .
They do pick the right kind .. and so long the sound is good enough ..
Well after that I have my own realisations ..and I also have my favourite set of parameters ..and they do affect final sound . Initial and final sound is definitely different...I generally compare them after 1500 hours above
Spec wise ..leaded solder is 280 to 360
Unleaded 380 to 450
Wave is alot lower temp
Depending on parts, flux ,
So I'm pretty sure ...every production line have their ways to balance it ...
Between the CLARITY CSA 8.2uf, KAISEI 10uf 350V Bipolar + 0.1uf PP FILM, and AMTRANS 250V 8.2uf , my wife selected the AMTRANS 8.2uf. great low level detail, wide sound stage, and inviting.. YMMV
Amtrans AMCG | Hifi Collective
not super expensive and the size is manageable. All my future designs will be based on the AMTRANS.
Dwight
Good info. The other problem is that the holes in the DIYAUDIO pcb for the coupling caps are very small. lead diameter may be an issue. Leads on Clarity caps would not fit the holes on the PCB.
I just swapped out the switching wall wart that came with my DIY Audio kit for a linear regulated power supply using the AMB Labs Sigma 11 regulator kit. My transformer is a an overkill 50VA Antek unit I got for its shielded windings. I also put an overkill 20A Corcom AC line filter upstream of the transformer. I have relatively poor math skills, so I tend to fall back on grotesque overdesign in my audio projects.
I had previously upgraded the switching wall wart on my Chord DAC for first a battery supply and then an upscale MCRU regulated supply. I had heard positive benefits from this upgrade, most notable was a reduction in the dry, scratchy sound quality the DAC had shown before.
A similar test with the Korg B1 running on a 24V LED battery showed me I was on the right track. I put the parts in a similar Galaxy case to the B1, only 2U high.
Forgive me for the following "Subjectivist" descriptions. I have limited test gear to try to quantify changes in sound quality, I have to rely on my less than perfect ears.
I have done several modifications to the NuTube B1. Most notable are mounting the PC board on sorbothane washers to reduce microphonic pickup. I have also changed the electrolytic coupling caps for Solen polypropylene capacitors.
I had wondered how much of the signature sound of a tube preamplifier is due to the big poly caps on its output. A side project building a BA-3 line stage with identical Solen caps showed me just how much of a tube character they provide (the FETs in the circuit don't hurt either).
I had previously thought that the spotlit, prominent, super-detailed lower treble of the NuTube B1 was due to an uneasy marriage between the NuTube with its soft rolled-off upper treble and the JFETs and their extended treble. Nope, it was the switching wall wart. The B1 with the Sigma 11 supply has a very smooth, flat treble response. The lower treble is in balance with the midrange and upper treble now. The B1 still keeps its speed and punch, but now has a refinement and balance that makes it a worthy competitor to my all-tube home-built 6SN7 mu-follower preamp. With the high price of good NOS octal tubes, I will be using the B1 a lot more now. Did I mention that there appears to be slightly more bass now, as well?
The AMB board and parts cost me around $50. I spent another $50 on the transformer and other odd parts from Mouser. The Galaxy cabinet from DIY Audio cost around $70.
I just wanted to share my experience. Anyone planning to upgrade their Korg B1 should consider adding a good regulated power supply.
I had previously upgraded the switching wall wart on my Chord DAC for first a battery supply and then an upscale MCRU regulated supply. I had heard positive benefits from this upgrade, most notable was a reduction in the dry, scratchy sound quality the DAC had shown before.
A similar test with the Korg B1 running on a 24V LED battery showed me I was on the right track. I put the parts in a similar Galaxy case to the B1, only 2U high.
Forgive me for the following "Subjectivist" descriptions. I have limited test gear to try to quantify changes in sound quality, I have to rely on my less than perfect ears.
I have done several modifications to the NuTube B1. Most notable are mounting the PC board on sorbothane washers to reduce microphonic pickup. I have also changed the electrolytic coupling caps for Solen polypropylene capacitors.
I had wondered how much of the signature sound of a tube preamplifier is due to the big poly caps on its output. A side project building a BA-3 line stage with identical Solen caps showed me just how much of a tube character they provide (the FETs in the circuit don't hurt either).
I had previously thought that the spotlit, prominent, super-detailed lower treble of the NuTube B1 was due to an uneasy marriage between the NuTube with its soft rolled-off upper treble and the JFETs and their extended treble. Nope, it was the switching wall wart. The B1 with the Sigma 11 supply has a very smooth, flat treble response. The lower treble is in balance with the midrange and upper treble now. The B1 still keeps its speed and punch, but now has a refinement and balance that makes it a worthy competitor to my all-tube home-built 6SN7 mu-follower preamp. With the high price of good NOS octal tubes, I will be using the B1 a lot more now. Did I mention that there appears to be slightly more bass now, as well?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The AMB board and parts cost me around $50. I spent another $50 on the transformer and other odd parts from Mouser. The Galaxy cabinet from DIY Audio cost around $70.
I just wanted to share my experience. Anyone planning to upgrade their Korg B1 should consider adding a good regulated power supply.
Hey Robert,
Now I'm pumped because that's the same supply I will be using..I will also compare them to my tube preamp. I got a very nice transformer plucked out of sansui.. Also now known as hashimoto today and hope that does justice to this fine design . Can't wait to light them up. So bored at home due to corona. I agree Sigma is really good stuff.. Top list of my favorite supply.
It's being on 24x7 with the rest while waiting for korg,
Now I'm pumped because that's the same supply I will be using..I will also compare them to my tube preamp. I got a very nice transformer plucked out of sansui.. Also now known as hashimoto today and hope that does justice to this fine design . Can't wait to light them up. So bored at home due to corona. I agree Sigma is really good stuff.. Top list of my favorite supply.
It's being on 24x7 with the rest while waiting for korg,
I probably have most of Tong Li songs, like Teresa Teng before, the way these chinese singers place their voice on the music is fantastic.
One question : why "today's standard" ? Did the standards have changed ? Since when and how ?