You don't need a scope to build a HB. But if you need an excuse to buy one, yes, go for it! 🙂
Haha yeah I bought it about 2 hours ago. It will make my desk look professional! Haha.
Does anyone have an up to date BOM for Mouser or Element14? Which one is better for Australians?
Also I want to be able to run 4ohm speakers as well as 8 ohm. Is there anything I need to consider?
Thanks lads
it could work but VA is too low unless you are just want to listen to soft music 50V is fine is jut the VA too low depending of how you are gonna use it 🙂 check this link of Antek Transformers - 600VA - AnTek Products Corp
Hi Fsatsil,
If they worked well for an Adcom, they will work well for the Honey Badger. The Adcom was no slouch in the power department and movies are typically played longer and louder than music for the average people.
Shame about the Adcom. What was the cause of it's premature death? I'm curious as I did warranty for Adcom for years. It was an above average product and reasonably robust.
If you can't use them, shoot them on up here and I will! 🙂
-Chris
If they worked well for an Adcom, they will work well for the Honey Badger. The Adcom was no slouch in the power department and movies are typically played longer and louder than music for the average people.
Shame about the Adcom. What was the cause of it's premature death? I'm curious as I did warranty for Adcom for years. It was an above average product and reasonably robust.
If you can't use them, shoot them on up here and I will! 🙂
-Chris
HB will work at 30V. And be cold running with 3X the SOA.
Consider building a bridged 2 amp setup at 35V rails. Just 2 pair OP per amp.
same wattage .... more wattage at 4R . AND nearly ice cold .
SOA is 2.5X at 35Vfor most ON semi OP devices.
50V rails are nearly 2X soa , your 4R wattage would be more than any
60-70V HB setup. Thermal dissipation also drops like a rock below <50dc.
OS
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Thanks guys. The Adcom transformers are around 450VA/35VAC I figure they should be good for around 75WPC or so. They were from a broken gfa5235 I picked up on eBay cheap, I used most of the other parts to repair two old Adcom gfa535s. Repairing those little Adcom amps is kind of a hobby for me.
I don’t have the actual specs of the Adcom transformers but the amplifier they came from was a four channel amplifier rated at 60wpc into 8ohms and 90wpc into 4ohms. The transformers are pretty stout
Don't let them convince you "will only play soft music".
Even If you make a (stereo) 4 output version of the badger and combine
it bi-amped with a 200w class D sub setup (no heatsinks at all with 300w smps + 200w D amp - just port ventilation).
, you will get the police called on you every time.
I can make resistors dance across my table with 200 + 70X2 watts (and get
the law called 😀)
PS - some 95db high efficiency loudspeakers at 60w will be louder than typical ones
at 200+ w.
Hello fellas,
I’m a newbie to the diy community but I’m enjoying the build!
I have a question regarding the ground.
Is the following correct:
The ground of the 230V is connected to the chassis.
The secondary centre wire of the transformer (to get a symmetrical power supply) is also connected to the chassis.
In this case everything form speakers ground to signal ground is connected to the chassis.
Am I right or wrong? I’ve tried to search multiple times in the thread but I can’t seem to find a clear answer to me.
Thank you very much
I’m a newbie to the diy community but I’m enjoying the build!
I have a question regarding the ground.
Is the following correct:
The ground of the 230V is connected to the chassis.
The secondary centre wire of the transformer (to get a symmetrical power supply) is also connected to the chassis.
In this case everything form speakers ground to signal ground is connected to the chassis.
Am I right or wrong? I’ve tried to search multiple times in the thread but I can’t seem to find a clear answer to me.
Thank you very much
All your audio related grounds should connect at a common point at the power supply. Your mains earth ground connects directly to the chassis. Your supply ground is connected to the earth ground, usually through a ground lift / loop breaker. Directly connecting audio ground to the chassis will normally make for a very noisy amplifier.
Thank you jwilhelm, that’s very clear.
Can you give me an example as for a ground lift or loop breaker as normally used in a quality audio amplifier?
Can you give me an example as for a ground lift or loop breaker as normally used in a quality audio amplifier?
I’ve read a post someone uses a full wave bridge rectifier to connect the audio ground back to the AC line. Is this also a good technique? What is recommended to use in the Honey Badger?
Here's a good explanation of the loop breaker and an example of a good connection scheme. Earthing (Grounding) Your Hi-Fi - Tricks and Techniques
I recommend not to use a thermistor or capacitor, because it kills safety.
Take look at what Rod Elliot writes. This is good advice.
Thank you, this is an eyeopener. The drawings and links are very interesting!
So what about the speaker ground terminals on the amplifier board. What should I do with these?
One to the ‘zero line’ of the transformer and one to the negative loudspeaker terminal?
So what about the speaker ground terminals on the amplifier board. What should I do with these?
One to the ‘zero line’ of the transformer and one to the negative loudspeaker terminal?
The speaker return lines on the amp board are an area that causes a lot of arguments. In my own builds I always return the speakers right to the power supply. Some say returning the speakers to the amplifier board itself give a better feedback signal which in turn lowers distortion. I've found the opposite in my builds.