photos of the current test-bed, inside a 1u repurposed rackmount chassis.
the ac wiring is still ugly and hacky. for some reason, it was not in the photo frame (lol). will clean that up when I get a chance.
the rest of the config is laid out for keeping inputs away from outputs and power. the layout seems ok and I hear no noise that I could attrib to the layout.
not that it matters much, but the wire I'm using is leftover silicone wire that is sold for RC toy batteries (lipo 3.7v). they are very flexible, have lots of strands, don't shrivel up when soldered to and they are very low resistance. its not cheap but I love working with that stuff. the rca cable is just leftover junk from 75ohm yellow rca composite patch cords, back when vcr's and stuff still were 'a thing' 😉
there is no muting circuit and no on/off antipop circuit yet. so far, I have not found the need! I think the key is that I'm driving these amps from a constant output-z (low z) drive and its not just a passive pot in front of the amp modules. I leave all my stuff on all the time and the preamp stays on all the time, too. when I power the set of 4 amps off, I hear a slight click in my drivers but nothing scary enough to justify having relays and timers and controllers. not yet, at least. power-on is just about as gentle.
each amp gets its own psu and sometimes the on-leds don't all light up at the same time. I think that if you can afford the cost and space of 'mono' psu units, DO IT. common psu is harder and this is so much easier and better, with a psu brick being so cheap, I saw no need to 'simplify' things with a single psu. this is a full mono setup and I like that.
the ac wiring is still ugly and hacky. for some reason, it was not in the photo frame (lol). will clean that up when I get a chance.
the rest of the config is laid out for keeping inputs away from outputs and power. the layout seems ok and I hear no noise that I could attrib to the layout.
not that it matters much, but the wire I'm using is leftover silicone wire that is sold for RC toy batteries (lipo 3.7v). they are very flexible, have lots of strands, don't shrivel up when soldered to and they are very low resistance. its not cheap but I love working with that stuff. the rca cable is just leftover junk from 75ohm yellow rca composite patch cords, back when vcr's and stuff still were 'a thing' 😉
there is no muting circuit and no on/off antipop circuit yet. so far, I have not found the need! I think the key is that I'm driving these amps from a constant output-z (low z) drive and its not just a passive pot in front of the amp modules. I leave all my stuff on all the time and the preamp stays on all the time, too. when I power the set of 4 amps off, I hear a slight click in my drivers but nothing scary enough to justify having relays and timers and controllers. not yet, at least. power-on is just about as gentle.
each amp gets its own psu and sometimes the on-leds don't all light up at the same time. I think that if you can afford the cost and space of 'mono' psu units, DO IT. common psu is harder and this is so much easier and better, with a psu brick being so cheap, I saw no need to 'simplify' things with a single psu. this is a full mono setup and I like that.
Attachments
That looks really nice Linuxworks. 1U chassis repurposed is great idea.
A more industrial version of my Xmax amp with 4 Sanwu's that woke up this thread from its slumber back in January.
A more industrial version of my Xmax amp with 4 Sanwu's that woke up this thread from its slumber back in January.
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After my mess up in earlier posts...
It sounds pretty impressive with the 20db gain mod.
Noise is gone.
🙂
It sounds pretty impressive with the 20db gain mod.
Noise is gone.
🙂
I use these 24V 3A supplies. About same price but lots more power. Good for 2 amps probably.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LUIHZZE/
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LUIHZZE/
I agree that for 1 or 2 boards, at most, an external brick is sensible. I have a few bricks around - lots of people have 12, 18 and sometimes 24v bricks.
but you have to admit, for 4chans, having 4 of them dangle on the floor with 4 barrel jacks - that's just messy as hell. and if you are going to embed something in your own box, might as well go better quality.
that no-name one you linked to has no u/l or other safety cert. I would not touch such a thing, personally. now, I'm not convinced the ones I picked are u/l rated, but they do seem a step up from the total generic ones that you find all over the place.
you have to actually search for 'u/l listed' to find one; and they are the exception, not the rule. even the cheaper US lab (etw or something like that) rarely shows up on the generic bricks.
you can find good safety rated bricks and I'd suggest that people try to find those, first.
the track record for generic no-safety-rated bricks is NOT good. you may not have had fired, but plenty of people have. china does not care what they send us. I would be careful with buying at the very low end.
but you have to admit, for 4chans, having 4 of them dangle on the floor with 4 barrel jacks - that's just messy as hell. and if you are going to embed something in your own box, might as well go better quality.
that no-name one you linked to has no u/l or other safety cert. I would not touch such a thing, personally. now, I'm not convinced the ones I picked are u/l rated, but they do seem a step up from the total generic ones that you find all over the place.
you have to actually search for 'u/l listed' to find one; and they are the exception, not the rule. even the cheaper US lab (etw or something like that) rarely shows up on the generic bricks.
you can find good safety rated bricks and I'd suggest that people try to find those, first.
the track record for generic no-safety-rated bricks is NOT good. you may not have had fired, but plenty of people have. china does not care what they send us. I would be careful with buying at the very low end.
http://www.amazon.com/Delta-ADP-65JH-DB-PA-1600-02-hp-a0652r3b/dp/B008ES6I6A
that's a good brick. full of safety certs, by a known (mostly trustable; as good as it generally gets with these) manuf.
its 19v, so its better than 12v, it has high enough current AND it doubles as a laptop psu, since 18 or 19v is the magic voltage for most of them.
that's a good brick. full of safety certs, by a known (mostly trustable; as good as it generally gets with these) manuf.
its 19v, so its better than 12v, it has high enough current AND it doubles as a laptop psu, since 18 or 19v is the magic voltage for most of them.
It's CE marked - Amazon can't sell non certified bricks.
Your internally mounted ones are neat but now you need to run a jack to a CE certified jack receptacle and have to deal with line voltages inside the box, fuses, grounding, etc. I am not saying it can't be done - it is neater but may not be best choice for folks not willing to do stuff to code as they are dealing with lethal line voltages now.
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CE marked from china doesn't mean a thing. some jokingly say it means 'china export'. some discussion about the font and even spacing of the C and E. but I don't see anything else and there is no enforcement for proper use of CE. hence, its not worth the label its printed on.
granted, u/l is overpriced and many opt to skip paying their high fees for cert. the other US lab whose name I forget (etw sounds right but I just don't remember) is cheaper but still it costs -something- and the china brands just don't care, as a rule. its scary how reckless they are with our equipment ;(
on my final build, I do plan to cover all exposed wiring. noted that most people don't. I'll take pics on my final build; this is still just a test bed, just neater than most test beds that's all 😉
speaking of voltages, the strain reliefs that the cheap bricks use are often not very good and wires wear thru with some use. it can be argued that fixing the wiring inside a box solves at least that problem.
I hope to have a single iec fused switched outlet on the final build.
granted, u/l is overpriced and many opt to skip paying their high fees for cert. the other US lab whose name I forget (etw sounds right but I just don't remember) is cheaper but still it costs -something- and the china brands just don't care, as a rule. its scary how reckless they are with our equipment ;(
on my final build, I do plan to cover all exposed wiring. noted that most people don't. I'll take pics on my final build; this is still just a test bed, just neater than most test beds that's all 😉
speaking of voltages, the strain reliefs that the cheap bricks use are often not very good and wires wear thru with some use. it can be argued that fixing the wiring inside a box solves at least that problem.
I hope to have a single iec fused switched outlet on the final build.
oh, and as for amazon caring about what they sell; HA! I tried to flag as many 'cordless antistatic wrist straps' as I could as fraud (they are, you know) but amazon just lets those thieves continue to sell junk that cannot work.
amazon doesn't care. they collect their dime, up or down.
amazon doesn't care. they collect their dime, up or down.
I think they care from standpoint of liability - at least this way, they can blame the vendor if something goes wrong and a unit burns up and causes a fire. The units I have work quite well and have not had a problem with them. I agree a name brand brick from HP with 50 different marks and certs is probably safer.
"I tried to flag as many 'cordless antistatic wrist straps' as I could as fraud (they are, you know) but amazon just lets those thieves continue to sell junk that cannot work."
Linuxworks, 'cordless antistatic wrist straps' is pretty humorous sounding. You have given me a great idea..."Bluetooth Antistatic Wrist Straps'! ...has a more technical sound than cordless. Could sell well on Amazon. 😀
Linuxworks, 'cordless antistatic wrist straps' is pretty humorous sounding. You have given me a great idea..."Bluetooth Antistatic Wrist Straps'! ...has a more technical sound than cordless. Could sell well on Amazon. 😀
not only are 'cordless' antistatic straps a total waste of money, they are unsafe since they have NO ground return at all! they are even worse than stupid jewelry; since they should have a function, but just are there for 'show'. they should be taken off the market and the vendors sued for fraud but amazon leaves them up there.
amazon collects money from sales. they are not in the ethics business. (lol, that's actually funny)
amazon collects money from sales. they are not in the ethics business. (lol, that's actually funny)
Yes it is, just got one.
But much more money so...in the cheap this TPA3118D2 is a killer!
Hi all, I'm working on my first build and had a power supply question.
I decided to go with two Sanwu TPA3118 monoblocks. I've seen various suggestions to use a 19v 5amp laptop brick. My question is will the same brick power both cards or should i have a separate brick for each amp?
Thanks in advance.
I decided to go with two Sanwu TPA3118 monoblocks. I've seen various suggestions to use a 19v 5amp laptop brick. My question is will the same brick power both cards or should i have a separate brick for each amp?
Thanks in advance.
Thank you for the quick reply.
Would there be any advantage to using 2 laptop bricks or a 24v 10amp switching power supplies for led lights( I saw this one among others referenced in the forums http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00QC...i=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=led+driver+24v )
Thanks again for any advice.
in my case, I found that when running 4 boards, I had some kind of oscillation or noise that was not present when using 1 brick for each amp, true mono.
if you can afford the space it takes and the slight extra cost, I personally think the full mono setup is far superior. in my case, I could have debugged the single psu config and made it work, but going with a private isolated psu per mono board was just too easy and too practical to avoid 😉
I do like that big 24v one on amazon. I had that in my cart and removed it, a few times, not able to decide. let us know how that goes if you get it.
if you can afford the space it takes and the slight extra cost, I personally think the full mono setup is far superior. in my case, I could have debugged the single psu config and made it work, but going with a private isolated psu per mono board was just too easy and too practical to avoid 😉
I do like that big 24v one on amazon. I had that in my cart and removed it, a few times, not able to decide. let us know how that goes if you get it.
Am I correct in I would just need one of the 24v ones then and not 1 for each amp?