Hi aradan,
i only messured the shunts on the top-deck. there it is In: 10,5V and Out: 8,2V. seems to be correct. but i have to desolder the decks to check the others. but i am too busy with family to do this in the next days :-(
thanks for your ideas! mario
i only messured the shunts on the top-deck. there it is In: 10,5V and Out: 8,2V. seems to be correct. but i have to desolder the decks to check the others. but i am too busy with family to do this in the next days :-(
thanks for your ideas! mario
Hello,
In the end someone will come with the right solution to your problem.
If nothing works why not ask Doede to take a look after all you are both in Europe.
I am happy i did decide to wait untill the big improvements are included into the DDDAC boards. Using a single dac board could be easy to troubleshoot but once more boards are interconnected and one board has an issue you will have a busy day finding it.
Soldering and desoldering in this set up will need serious skills and concentration all along the way. Replacing some caps will probably just take time and could be done done but adding extra circuits and erasing circuit traces gives me goosebumps in a negative way.
Soon i will just get 4 boards, maybe use some special caps, get Doedes output transformer and built an over the top power supply ( surely choke input)
Greetings, Eduard
In the end someone will come with the right solution to your problem.
If nothing works why not ask Doede to take a look after all you are both in Europe.
I am happy i did decide to wait untill the big improvements are included into the DDDAC boards. Using a single dac board could be easy to troubleshoot but once more boards are interconnected and one board has an issue you will have a busy day finding it.
Soldering and desoldering in this set up will need serious skills and concentration all along the way. Replacing some caps will probably just take time and could be done done but adding extra circuits and erasing circuit traces gives me goosebumps in a negative way.
Soon i will just get 4 boards, maybe use some special caps, get Doedes output transformer and built an over the top power supply ( surely choke input)
Greetings, Eduard
yes, I am always happy to look at any DAC some one built and has issues. I get a few every quarter to check/repair....
just consider...
also, de-soldering decks is EASY when you have de-soldering station. A piece of equipment EVERY DIY should have I believe. I do this regularly...
poor man solution: cut the wires just under the PCB and remove the deck. you can solder back later the decks at those points easily as well
just consider...
also, de-soldering decks is EASY when you have de-soldering station. A piece of equipment EVERY DIY should have I believe. I do this regularly...
poor man solution: cut the wires just under the PCB and remove the deck. you can solder back later the decks at those points easily as well
Hi,
i did not hear or test the Diyinhk USB.
My preference woulde be :
1. IAN FIFO
2. JL Sounds + Clock Board + Crystek
3. Wave I/O and JL Sounds
4. Amanero
As karahana already mention I could also confirm the JL Sounds clock board with crystek is the game changer here and make a clear and noticable improvment of the sound.
Beside the crystal as I correct construe an technical difference is that on the Wave I/O the galavanic isolation IC is after the clock generation against on the JL Sounds the isolation is before the clock generation / clock board. So generated clock has not traverse an additional stage.
I recommend the FIFO as best solution, improvment is again noticable ... on other hand cost is about 100 Euro higher than JS Sounds + Clock Board + Crystek.
Irrespective of your solution, please try to keep the I2S Cables as short as possible 🙂
Regards
Marcus
I just updated my website with a short reference to the new dac board with the Tentlabs Shunt and pin20 Current Source, so you can download the technical documents if you like.
or directly here ---> Click here for link to document
Audio creative is updating their web site as the kits are available now... Click to go to web shop
have fun 😎
or directly here ---> Click here for link to document
Audio creative is updating their web site as the kits are available now... Click to go to web shop
have fun 😎
Attachments
triple wow
Hello,
Just did order a 4 board dddac kit to be used with my rega cdplayer. So oldfashioned i know!
Now i will need to find some time to construct it. Hope it will come with an updated manual but it surely will be easier than modifying the old boards with Tent shunts.
I honestly believe that the incorporated shunts will be more reliable than the diy solutions seen so far and adding the other shunts to these boards ( but there will be mods that will offer a better return on investment if we should believe the almighty Doede) will be easier because there is the right space available.
Will ask Doede soon for a pair of output transformers.
Greetings, Eduard
Hello,
Just did order a 4 board dddac kit to be used with my rega cdplayer. So oldfashioned i know!
Now i will need to find some time to construct it. Hope it will come with an updated manual but it surely will be easier than modifying the old boards with Tent shunts.
I honestly believe that the incorporated shunts will be more reliable than the diy solutions seen so far and adding the other shunts to these boards ( but there will be mods that will offer a better return on investment if we should believe the almighty Doede) will be easier because there is the right space available.
Will ask Doede soon for a pair of output transformers.
Greetings, Eduard
Great!
I just have a question, the 7810 regulator is mandatory?
I'm powering my (2) dddac boards with low noise regulated 12V, one for left side, one for right.
Tent shunts can accept 12v directly?
Thanks for your work, ones again!
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Hmmm, I personally don't believe in synchronous reclocking - simply because it can not eliminate all jitter due to its design - it can only create a "fixed jitter". Maybe "fixed jitter" is preferrable over random jitter, I don't know, but to my mind "no jitter" is nevertheless better than "fixed jitter".
I did some measurements of the synchronous Acko S03 reclocker some time ago and was not really convinced:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/group-buys/227502-amanero-isolator-reclocker-gb-156.html#post4168978
It is, moreover, a real pity that all those jitter-killer solutions that can be found are not checked by means of measurements. To me, assuring that there is no jitter seems to be mandatory before trying to check for audible differences.
So, the real solution seems to be asynchronous reclocking by buffering the audio stream in a FIFO and clocking the I2S data out via a high precision clock (Crystek). This is quite complex as there needs to be some kind of logic that recognizes clock speed and handles buffer over/underruns, which can be done for instance in an FPGA.
The only solution I'm aware of is Ians reclocker, however, I could (not yet) find out how to get one - any clues in this forum?
Best Regards,
Hermann
Thank you for your feedback and measurement.
May be I get don't get your point, but ordere IAN's FIFO from here
Regards Marcus
Hi Doede,
that's fantastic.
Many thanks for your effort of support time and sharing that amazing DAC !
Regards
Great!
I just have a question, the 7810 regulator is mandatory?
I'm powering my (2) dddac boards with low noise regulated 12V, one for left side, one for right.
Tent shunts can accept 12v directly?
Thanks for your work, ones again!
Of course that will work as well.... Guido Tent recommended the Pre-Regulation though... you can easily try it out for your self of course?
Can you reduce the 12 to 10 Volt? That would be even better for heat dissipation in the transistors
I had a very similar issue after upgrading my "red board" DDDAC with a 1/2 clock delay board. After reading the data sheets of the logic chips I decided the 3.3 Vdd supply should be fine, so I left it at 3.3 V. Then I got the crackle / hiss in one channel, but not the other. After I changed the voltage regulator to 5.0V, the crackle / hiss went away. Based on this experience I would not exclude the 1/2 clock delay as a possible source of your problem.
Did you swap the 100Ω / 1kΩ resistors on the DAC boards?
hi,
thanks for sharing your experiences. i have to desolder the decks (ordered a desolder-station yesterday 🙂 and will check these things. the resistors are the right ones. hope to have good news in a few days...
thanks for sharing your experiences. i have to desolder the decks (ordered a desolder-station yesterday 🙂 and will check these things. the resistors are the right ones. hope to have good news in a few days...
While a desoldering station is probably nice to have, I just cut the wires to remove the DAC boards and swap the "delay" resistors on the DAC boards.
Thanks Doede,
I should be able to reduce to 10V, as I said, it is already regulated, but will power the right (or left) side of two boards at the same time, digital side included.
Well, I'll try!
Where is the fun if not experimenting 😀
Doede, yet again great work and thank you!
I understand the 7810 is Reg the 12 to 10v to improve the dissipation in the tent shunt. I thought the whole idea of the shunt was to stop having regulation for improved low noose supply so by putting the 7810 there it is not helping with that.
What do I not understand please as I am missing something here? Thank you
I understand the 7810 is Reg the 12 to 10v to improve the dissipation in the tent shunt. I thought the whole idea of the shunt was to stop having regulation for improved low noose supply so by putting the 7810 there it is not helping with that.
What do I not understand please as I am missing something here? Thank you
The 7810 is for local pre regulation it actually helps reduce noise. The reduction of power dissipation is a nice side effect. The main point of having the shunt is the low output impedance and the regulation process ,shunt versus linear...