Incredibly cheap. ~10% of the 1thou Kapton I found.
I've ordered a roll to find out what thickness it is.
Too thick and it becomes protection for the leading edge of wings.
I've ordered a roll to find out what thickness it is.
Too thick and it becomes protection for the leading edge of wings.
Looks like the Kapton I use. Self adhesive 2thou thick. Originally for gold edge connector protection in the wave soldering machine.
I ordered a roll(from link). It would be interesting to Megger it out to see what the voltage break down is really like. No megger at the house though!
I hope so 🙂 . My only concern was that it was soo cheap. That being said, if other members use it,it's probably a decent knock off (or at least works well enough in this application) .
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Never really did watch to close on the dc from cold to warm.
Seems like one channel starts at 3mv and uses a couple of minutes to reach 0.
The other channel however, starts at 30 and uses about 15 minutes to reach 0.
Leaving it on for the rest of the day on my desk to watch them over the hours to see if something more happens.
Is this something I have to adress or is it more or less normal, over the years I've seen some mentions of it on this thread but really not outcome
Seems like one channel starts at 3mv and uses a couple of minutes to reach 0.
The other channel however, starts at 30 and uses about 15 minutes to reach 0.
Leaving it on for the rest of the day on my desk to watch them over the hours to see if something more happens.
Is this something I have to adress or is it more or less normal, over the years I've seen some mentions of it on this thread but really not outcome
Wishborn,
That was a fast rebuild. I empathize the lose of your drivers. I know it's not the best for sound purposes, but that's why I put speaker protection devices in my HB. My tin ears can't hear the difference any way. I hope your speakers have as quick a recovery as your HB has.
Ron
That was a fast rebuild. I empathize the lose of your drivers. I know it's not the best for sound purposes, but that's why I put speaker protection devices in my HB. My tin ears can't hear the difference any way. I hope your speakers have as quick a recovery as your HB has.
Ron
Yes well, i could have rebuilt the speakers but I now are looking towards upgrading the speakers so..... Things take time and i got a lot of other projects that is time consuming, we'll see. Amp moved back to my daughters desk and is under surveillance.
https://cloud.midtbo.pw/index.php/s/aiOkMdAuWlJR99h
Logging each 3 minutes to see if **** happens througout the day. Next channel tomorrow
https://cloud.midtbo.pw/index.php/s/aiOkMdAuWlJR99h
Logging each 3 minutes to see if **** happens througout the day. Next channel tomorrow
Hi, I need some help with my build. I just powered the first channel up and everything went super smooth when adjusting DC offset, LTP current and output bias. All voltages are very stable.
However when I played some music (from my computers sound card directly to the honeybadger) the sound was extremely quiet. I had to crank the volume very high and hold my hear directly to the speaker to realize it was playing at all. I can play much louder by connecting the sound card directly to the speaker than what I can playing through the amplifier. Any ideas on what could be wrong?
Thanks
/Oskar
However when I played some music (from my computers sound card directly to the honeybadger) the sound was extremely quiet. I had to crank the volume very high and hold my hear directly to the speaker to realize it was playing at all. I can play much louder by connecting the sound card directly to the speaker than what I can playing through the amplifier. Any ideas on what could be wrong?
Thanks
/Oskar
Did you add the jumper along side of C1 ?
You need to , if you are using a larger C1 ( 7.5mm - 15mm).
OS
You need to , if you are using a larger C1 ( 7.5mm - 15mm).
OS
Lol, always wondered why the input took a loop like that. Now i got it ostripper
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Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Os do you have any solutions or better yet an explenation to my post on 2047. The one side that starts at 30mv and uses a few minutes to reach 0. Its stable otherwise
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Badger has no servo. A DC blocking cap can take a little longer to "settle".
My non-servo'ed "wolverine" does just this.
OS
My non-servo'ed "wolverine" does just this.
OS
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/37262-mica-goop-13.html#post4667132
The Chinese koptan is ~ 1thou/mil thick.
I estimate the total adhesive + tape thickness as ~ 1.6thou/mil
I never noticed the spelling before. Now I see it in the pictures from the add :s .
I haven't received mine yet. I did however recieve all my badger parts, aside from a couple pieces that were damaged.
Will be doing another order shortly for my PSU/ wiring. I will have to re-order that R36 resistor, as I only ordered the 2 required units due to crap price!
On another note, those MJL4281's and 4302's are MASSIVE!
Attachments
Koptan dreams
Such folly with the tape. Wakefield shows 0.15mm insulator thickness for their Kapton material. Sticky 1mm tapes show 2mm thickness with the adhesive.
I can't believe you guys are using this Thick Thermal insulator for your heatsink
applications. Not cool.
Such folly with the tape. Wakefield shows 0.15mm insulator thickness for their Kapton material. Sticky 1mm tapes show 2mm thickness with the adhesive.
I can't believe you guys are using this Thick Thermal insulator for your heatsink
applications. Not cool.
