Snubber capacitor 0.22uf is very important part. I insert it in the same position in my Xono Diy phono , and difference in sound is huge. Manufactured Xono had ordinary diode bridges in PS without any snubber. Perhaps a part of Xp-15 and XP-25 sonic superiority over Xono is snubbers over diode bridges.
In my case, sound is now more focused, dynamic with more lowest level details. I am using cheap integrated bridges . Capacitors should be MKP X2 rated type for lowest ESR.
In my case, sound is now more focused, dynamic with more lowest level details. I am using cheap integrated bridges . Capacitors should be MKP X2 rated type for lowest ESR.
Could you elaborate on the "position" these .22uf snubber caps are in? A picture would be nice if possible at all. I have seen diode bridges with 4 small caps bypassing each of the 4 diodes in a bridge, are these the caps you refer to? This sounds like a worthwhile addition.
Thanks for simplification, and excuse my thick head!
Russellc
Thanks, I have all the wire to wire it up except the umbilical between power supply and Pearl 2. I should be here directly. I still need to solder some of the bits (zvp 3310, yes I got extras, and the regulators) I was afraid to touch, it has been an extremely Static electricity filled winter!
Russellc
Ut-Oh....post #1 diagram does show "after" the diodes..considering the improvement you note I assume its like the diagram, but waiting for 6L6 response! 6l6, do you have a recommended part for this snubber cap?
I will recheck the beginning post to see if one is mentioned...
Russellc
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Well, all I found was this mention:
"The .22uf snubber cap was a suggestion from Wayne, he did a bunch of testing and found that value to give the most benefit in a single cap. 2.2k 3W was chosen as a bleeder because (yep, you guessed it…) I had them on hand - that value is used as a bleeder in Pass power amps".
On the first page if you scroll down about 9 images, it shows the board he mounted the diodes to, and 2 small caps. Maybe this is "them" but still not sure if before or after. But, if you scroll down further it shows the power supply enclosure, and everything in its place, it appears the are indeed "after" the diodes. (about 13 images down after the initial schematic for power supply is shown.
I've asked him so many question last night and today I'm sure he just got it mixed up!
Russellc
"The .22uf snubber cap was a suggestion from Wayne, he did a bunch of testing and found that value to give the most benefit in a single cap. 2.2k 3W was chosen as a bleeder because (yep, you guessed it…) I had them on hand - that value is used as a bleeder in Pass power amps".
On the first page if you scroll down about 9 images, it shows the board he mounted the diodes to, and 2 small caps. Maybe this is "them" but still not sure if before or after. But, if you scroll down further it shows the power supply enclosure, and everything in its place, it appears the are indeed "after" the diodes. (about 13 images down after the initial schematic for power supply is shown.
I've asked him so many question last night and today I'm sure he just got it mixed up!
Russellc
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Fired up my Pearl 2 Power Supply, at least it works. 33.3 volts per side though variac, unloaded
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Assembly of umbilical and getting phono box ready. Just need to solder in the regulators, ZVP 3310s, a few resistors and wire it up.
Seems I left out certain resistors as part of the fire up protocal, will have to reread notes from a few years ago!
Eventually the power supply will be housed in a DIYstore chassis, but the old Dyna Pat 5 box will do for now!
Russellc
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Assembly of umbilical and getting phono box ready. Just need to solder in the regulators, ZVP 3310s, a few resistors and wire it up.
Seems I left out certain resistors as part of the fire up protocal, will have to reread notes from a few years ago!
Eventually the power supply will be housed in a DIYstore chassis, but the old Dyna Pat 5 box will do for now!
Russellc
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Oddly, to me anyway maybe not to most experienced builders here,without variac and plugged right into wall, I got slightly less voltage, about 29.9 or so. Never thought of a variac like that, just assuming it only reduced voltage. Learn something new everyday...
Russellc
What heatsinks are those? I will be wrapping up my PSU today and starting on the audio section tomorrow, and I neglected to order any.
I think they came from Mouser, 6L6 gave me the suggestion some while back. When I get home from work, I'll see if I still have the PM, I usually keep them until project is done.
Russellc
Russellc
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The PCB has holes for the heatsinks. Place the TO-220 device on the heatsink, with screw and nut, insert the heatsink on the PCB, solder it in, then solder the electronic leads.
I did not realize you soldered the heatsink to the board,glad you mentioned this. I just assumed the tabs on the sink stuck in the holes, along with the device soldered to the board and screwed to the sink held it in. Or do you mean the TO-220 device is soldered in when you say that and NOT the sink itself?
Is it difficult to get the tabs on the sink hot enough? Guess I will find out soon enough!
Russellc
The tabs are pressed in so they heat rather quickly.
There's enough decoupling to not heat the entire sink if that's what your concerned about
Regards
David
There's enough decoupling to not heat the entire sink if that's what your concerned about
Regards
David