Very nice Halair. What driver are you using? Any info on internal cabinet configuration?
Thank you MPM - most relevant details are found in my thread however for this build I used the Vifa TC09-18-08 from Parts Express.
Link - Halair Columns Build
How do they sound Halair? Do you like the presentation of the line array? Hope to build an array soon that will be very similiar and would love to hear your impressions!
Thanks,
Rich
Thanks,
Rich
How do they sound Halair? Do you like the presentation of the line array? Hope to build an array soon that will be very similiar and would love to hear your impressions!
In a word - fantastic 😱
They do require EQ, miniDSP or otherwise, to lift the top/bottom.
My 20 drivers are wired as 5 parallell groups of 4 in series. This gives me a nom. impendance of 6.4ohm. Calculated efficiency 98dB/1W
My only advice for building these is to use as many drivers you can fit heightwise, minimum 16 (4xParallell 4xSeries), nice compromise with 20 (5P4S) or the full monty choose 25 (5P5S)
Hello Kiril!
I saw these U-horns on a Russian site once. Do you have access to the plans? I'd love to have a pair built for me here in the USA.
Thetubeguy1954 (Tom Scata)
i have asked for plans on these horns w/ no response. i even joined the bgaudio.org blog & asked. no response???
i believe this is a composite design with the FR driver in a BiB bottom/forward firing enclosure w/ a waveguide based on the following & complimentary waveguide added for the LF exit.
plans would be nice!
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Dear nuconz,
the plans for the U-horns were posted 2 days ago.
Please kindly look at post #3079.
Best regards.
the plans for the U-horns were posted 2 days ago.
Please kindly look at post #3079.
Best regards.
Might as well join this thread now...
More info here: Lord of the Waves, The Two Towers
Same concept as Halair's towers, except this is the mentioned full monty 😉

More info here: Lord of the Waves, The Two Towers
Same concept as Halair's towers, except this is the mentioned full monty 😉
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i have asked for plans on these horns w/ no response. i even joined the bgaudio.org blog & asked. no response???
i believe this is a composite design with the FR driver in a BiB bottom/forward firing enclosure w/ a waveguide based on the following & complimentary waveguide added for the LF exit.
plans would be nice!
Hi nuconz,
See the post #3079 in this same thread (previous page 308).
As i said there - 2D and 3D models (autocad) are available...and in case you're going to build this challenging project, you'll be supported by the few of us, (including the owner of the horns) which were in the team that build and tuned these monsters 🙂
Here again the link:
U-horn by Etheraudio
Kindest regards,
Kiril
Kiril,
I can't see a width specified... certainly a necessary piece of information if you want to build them.
dave
Kiril,
I can't see a width specified... certainly a necessary piece of information if you want to build them.
dave
and final flare etc of mouth
and final flare etc of mouth
Hi All,
Try this:
http://bgaudio.org/forums/download/horni.dwg
http://bgaudio.org/forums/download/horni.dxf
In case, you need more and specific information, I can find paper plans and provide additional details.
Kindest regards,
Kiril
That reminds me my future (and endlesly postponed) project:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...loaded-fullrange-design-help-needed-wise.html
See post #22.
A front and rear horn loaded FR with the bass horn split in two, with each going in opposite directions. As front horn, I'll use the 2:3 Autograph's. The central diagram shows the front view. The left diagram shows an exploded lateral view of the split horns. The right diagrams show the upper view, with optional rotation of the front horn to allow room corner placement and firing of the transducer to your own sweet spot.
As I say, there is no thing as a too big bass horn...
And I believe the front horn should be "symetric and armonic", meaning symetric in at least two planes...
The FR transducer will be Audio Nirvana super10, coated with Dammar varnish.
Happy Christmass and prosperous musical new year.
M.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...loaded-fullrange-design-help-needed-wise.html
See post #22.
A front and rear horn loaded FR with the bass horn split in two, with each going in opposite directions. As front horn, I'll use the 2:3 Autograph's. The central diagram shows the front view. The left diagram shows an exploded lateral view of the split horns. The right diagrams show the upper view, with optional rotation of the front horn to allow room corner placement and firing of the transducer to your own sweet spot.
As I say, there is no thing as a too big bass horn...
And I believe the front horn should be "symetric and armonic", meaning symetric in at least two planes...
The FR transducer will be Audio Nirvana super10, coated with Dammar varnish.
Happy Christmass and prosperous musical new year.
M.
Attachments
Thanx Kiril,
That looks to have all the information needed.
dave
Dear Dave, just be noted that there is a triangle (unused space) just before the exit of the horn which have to be removed during the construction. It took a lot of time to do this after making the boxes. it is a MUST to be removed! Thanks for the interest of my speakers. If you need any information or pictures of the consturction steps I can upload.
Best regards!!!
frugal XL-ish
total newbie here, sharing some picks of my, soon to be finished - frugal xl-ish build.
build a test pair of the regular frugal horn, and was (are) very pleased. Wanted to build a bit bigger, and begun to do it, and then I came across pics of the frugal XL and saw that they were a bit similar. I know it's not "kosher" to just change measurements, but they not that far off, and being no expert, I doubt I hear any difference.
regarding the pics, nr3 (close up) was a f*ck-up, and I did not have more veneer (padouk) left to do a new baffel (showing is the one that is OK, but one is one short 🙂 )
the new baffel is walnut instead. The color difference is now great, but in time they will move closer (walnut gets more brown, and the red/orange in the padouk will get darker (I'm told - first time working with padouk)
the padouk veneer is a decoflex Fineer en gefineerde producten - Europees marktleider in de verwerking van fineerhout - Decospan
the walnut is prelaminated on 19mm mdf
not decided yet on the feets/stand
edit: forgot - the drivers used: e100HD with their recommended zobelfilter http://www.eadsweden.com/drive-units/
total newbie here, sharing some picks of my, soon to be finished - frugal xl-ish build.
build a test pair of the regular frugal horn, and was (are) very pleased. Wanted to build a bit bigger, and begun to do it, and then I came across pics of the frugal XL and saw that they were a bit similar. I know it's not "kosher" to just change measurements, but they not that far off, and being no expert, I doubt I hear any difference.
regarding the pics, nr3 (close up) was a f*ck-up, and I did not have more veneer (padouk) left to do a new baffel (showing is the one that is OK, but one is one short 🙂 )
the new baffel is walnut instead. The color difference is now great, but in time they will move closer (walnut gets more brown, and the red/orange in the padouk will get darker (I'm told - first time working with padouk)
the padouk veneer is a decoflex Fineer en gefineerde producten - Europees marktleider in de verwerking van fineerhout - Decospan
the walnut is prelaminated on 19mm mdf
not decided yet on the feets/stand
edit: forgot - the drivers used: e100HD with their recommended zobelfilter http://www.eadsweden.com/drive-units/
Attachments
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Hi nuconz,
See the post #3079 in this same thread (previous page 308).
As i said there - 2D and 3D models (autocad) are available...and in case you're going to build this challenging project, you'll be supported by the few of us, (including the owner of the horns) which were in the team that build and tuned these monsters 🙂
Here again the link:
U-horn by Etheraudio
Kindest regards,
Kiril
sorry. not notified of post. system not sent to auto-notify me on post.
elegant system. however the line length exceeds 23' (7k mm)? tuned to SW levels? wow & why?
how about a driver & line length/design change to an iBiB tuned to 40hz w/ exit horn?
this would be easier to build & should yield similar sound, bar the lowest octave?
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