Yep had the filthy fingers as well, them Parkers is full of the filthy stuff.
No, this higher centre is a benefit
Jay
No, this higher centre is a benefit
Jay
Nanook,
Let me try this again. I am not interested in a kit or a DIY tonearm. I am interested in your Kickstarter project. You will offer complete arms as the top level one. How much will you sell your commercial tonearms for? I realize it will depend on what materials you use. I hope you can sell your tonearm for under $500. We need a low cost tonearm that can compete with the big boys.
Let me try this again. I am not interested in a kit or a DIY tonearm. I am interested in your Kickstarter project. You will offer complete arms as the top level one. How much will you sell your commercial tonearms for? I realize it will depend on what materials you use. I hope you can sell your tonearm for under $500. We need a low cost tonearm that can compete with the big boys.
guys, calm down...
Yes I sent you an email
Guys, the female bearing is actually above the centre of the arm tube, not below it. So don't be nervous, and you need not spend any time using a lathe. I measured a couple of arms and the female cup sits at approximately 5mm into the arm tube (and the arm tube is approximately 9.35mm OD)
Almost as conspicuous as the windwalkers from The Game of Thrones 😉
audiostar: When done I am hoping to offer a reward of a complete arm for around $250, including an arm base that would be similar to what was offered with the Profile arms that Systemdek used on the IIX. Kickstarter does not allow sales, only "rewards" for those that contribute. Not a penny is forwarded until the total funding has been reached. The arm base and cueing device will be the single most expensive part.
Yes I sent you an email
Guys, the female bearing is actually above the centre of the arm tube, not below it. So don't be nervous, and you need not spend any time using a lathe. I measured a couple of arms and the female cup sits at approximately 5mm into the arm tube (and the arm tube is approximately 9.35mm OD)
Almost as conspicuous as the windwalkers from The Game of Thrones 😉
audiostar: When done I am hoping to offer a reward of a complete arm for around $250, including an arm base that would be similar to what was offered with the Profile arms that Systemdek used on the IIX. Kickstarter does not allow sales, only "rewards" for those that contribute. Not a penny is forwarded until the total funding has been reached. The arm base and cueing device will be the single most expensive part.
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That is a nice looking arm.
I must've missed the VTA bit. !
With the fuse cap the male Balls get to within about 1mm of the top of the arm tube !
So if any one can get it up higher & with as little weight as the fuse cap then let me know.
As it happens I do know of a way to get it lighter but as it weighs so little it hardly matters.
Jay
I must've missed the VTA bit. !
With the fuse cap the male Balls get to within about 1mm of the top of the arm tube !
So if any one can get it up higher & with as little weight as the fuse cap then let me know.
As it happens I do know of a way to get it lighter but as it weighs so little it hardly matters.
Jay
vertical female cup location, con't
guys,
As pointed out, the cup itself can be much higher than 5 mm from the bottom of the arm tube. A shorter set screw would result in something closer to the 1mm that Jay1234 feels he has attained. I suspect that he would do what I had previously thought of: just take a centre punch and punch a "dimple" (through the bottom of the arm wand) on the top of the arm wand. That's about as light and as high as possible. The pen nub will most likely take millennia to wear itself or the arm tube out, even with no lubrication. Graphite could be used or good bicycle grease, if lubrication is wanted.
Working on a simplified Scheu style headshell that almost anyone could make with a knife and a little bit of dowelling. A 3/4" X 3/4" (18mm X 18mm) plate is everything else that would be required, you choose the material. This would reduce the ability to machine the headshell to effectively zero. Photos to come.
Also have been working on a tonearm mount that would allow the (relatively) easy retrofit of the 219 to any TT with a 9" arm. This is more of a "commercial concern" should the arm actually be put into production. I am also considering shrinking the arm to 10.5" (267 mm effective length) so that it could be retrofitted to almost any turntable without the need for a stand alone pod (I know most here wouldn't care, however I'm trying to make it as universally usable as possible).
Looking forward to reading listening comparisons from those out there who build their own version. Regardless of the outcome of any crowd-sourced funding effort, I will continue to support and help in this thread.
guys,
As pointed out, the cup itself can be much higher than 5 mm from the bottom of the arm tube. A shorter set screw would result in something closer to the 1mm that Jay1234 feels he has attained. I suspect that he would do what I had previously thought of: just take a centre punch and punch a "dimple" (through the bottom of the arm wand) on the top of the arm wand. That's about as light and as high as possible. The pen nub will most likely take millennia to wear itself or the arm tube out, even with no lubrication. Graphite could be used or good bicycle grease, if lubrication is wanted.
Working on a simplified Scheu style headshell that almost anyone could make with a knife and a little bit of dowelling. A 3/4" X 3/4" (18mm X 18mm) plate is everything else that would be required, you choose the material. This would reduce the ability to machine the headshell to effectively zero. Photos to come.
Also have been working on a tonearm mount that would allow the (relatively) easy retrofit of the 219 to any TT with a 9" arm. This is more of a "commercial concern" should the arm actually be put into production. I am also considering shrinking the arm to 10.5" (267 mm effective length) so that it could be retrofitted to almost any turntable without the need for a stand alone pod (I know most here wouldn't care, however I'm trying to make it as universally usable as possible).
Looking forward to reading listening comparisons from those out there who build their own version. Regardless of the outcome of any crowd-sourced funding effort, I will continue to support and help in this thread.
Headshell
Hello Everyone
Further to the discussions relating to headshells, I believe my design to be, not only aesthetically pleasing but also very practical and rigid. It is also very light at less than 4g.
I'm using it on both my version of this arm and my WT Clone (see the other thread). It also makes alignment so very easy.
Hello Everyone
Further to the discussions relating to headshells, I believe my design to be, not only aesthetically pleasing but also very practical and rigid. It is also very light at less than 4g.
I'm using it on both my version of this arm and my WT Clone (see the other thread). It also makes alignment so very easy.
Hi Nanook,
all the best for your kickstarter.I hope you remember me.I can help you for machine work.I have got good contacts with CNC and Lathe shop.
I recently acquired Lenco L-75.I am running without plinth,ad tonearm is from Pioneer PL-A25.It sounds better than any DD or BD I heard even in this condition.I am interested to try 219 arm on this.
Regards,
Sachin
all the best for your kickstarter.I hope you remember me.I can help you for machine work.I have got good contacts with CNC and Lathe shop.
I recently acquired Lenco L-75.I am running without plinth,ad tonearm is from Pioneer PL-A25.It sounds better than any DD or BD I heard even in this condition.I am interested to try 219 arm on this.
Regards,
Sachin
Nanook - yes, when I find Al tubing I will try just a dent in the tube 🙂
Chris - very nice indeed. Just as mine except for the lift which would be a good thing to add.
Brgds
Chris - very nice indeed. Just as mine except for the lift which would be a good thing to add.
Brgds
Headshell
Hi
The lift is an integral part of the headshell-see the same arrangement with the Morch UP4 tonearm. It is filled with epoxy putty which makes the whole affair very rigid and also dead-no ringing at all
Hi
The lift is an integral part of the headshell-see the same arrangement with the Morch UP4 tonearm. It is filled with epoxy putty which makes the whole affair very rigid and also dead-no ringing at all
I couldn't help myself. It was too wet to work yesterday, so time to work on the arm.
This is the solution I came up with for the female bearing part.
Arrow shaft is an Easton carbon/alu thingie, with an outer diameter about 7 mm. Pivot point should be about 2 mm down from te top of the shaft.
this is the result so far
Parker point is connected to a thumbscrew for easy VTA adjustment.
This is the solution I came up with for the female bearing part.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Arrow shaft is an Easton carbon/alu thingie, with an outer diameter about 7 mm. Pivot point should be about 2 mm down from te top of the shaft.
this is the result so far
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Parker point is connected to a thumbscrew for easy VTA adjustment.
Looking good Gijsch,
& yes thats how I fitted the fuse cap into the tube with epoxy, then filed any excess off so it looks like its just a hole in the tube.
Though to be fair the added weight at that point (directly below the pivot point ) could be of benefit to overall stability.......Any thoughts about this?
Nice idea for VTA, can you post a pic of the thumb screw..without arm tube in the way lol
I'd like to incorporate something like that myself providing it can be made quite solid.
Jay
& yes thats how I fitted the fuse cap into the tube with epoxy, then filed any excess off so it looks like its just a hole in the tube.
Though to be fair the added weight at that point (directly below the pivot point ) could be of benefit to overall stability.......Any thoughts about this?
Nice idea for VTA, can you post a pic of the thumb screw..without arm tube in the way lol
I'd like to incorporate something like that myself providing it can be made quite solid.
Jay
I think any old fuse would do as long as its brass. If production was an intent This is the method I would use as it lends itself nicely, to Flow production. As it is merely an adaptation of an existing thing.
Stew: The headshell is Cherry Blossom wood, (we have a nice tree in the garden) just hand carved, then Carefully sanded & drilled. I was going to make an entire arm from the same wood, got as far as drilling a rather wonky 13" long hole, by hand, I don't have a lathe.
Yes the implementation is nice & diverse with interesting ideas.
Jay
Stew: The headshell is Cherry Blossom wood, (we have a nice tree in the garden) just hand carved, then Carefully sanded & drilled. I was going to make an entire arm from the same wood, got as far as drilling a rather wonky 13" long hole, by hand, I don't have a lathe.
Yes the implementation is nice & diverse with interesting ideas.
Jay
A couple of utube vids of my arm in action with help from my minions
Diy unipivot tonearm - YouTube
DIY tonearm - YouTube
Enjoy 🙂
Diy unipivot tonearm - YouTube
DIY tonearm - YouTube
Enjoy 🙂
Ok, my proof of concept is done. It works.
Next iteration will be a more rigid build.
Brgds
Next iteration will be a more rigid build.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Brgds
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