spread around...
yup...I'd like for folks who would not normally try their hand at a DIY tonearm. Technically not difficult. Biggest hassle is getting a bearing into the arm tube. I've managed to record the Sugden/"219" tonearm playing together nicely..(video). Unsure of the best way to post it on the Internet.
The arm pictured is effective length:= 330 mm
The parts sent to Dave were for 300mm (12") ones.
These arms perform at a level that is not embarrassed being compared to an SME 309 (magnesium).
yup...I'd like for folks who would not normally try their hand at a DIY tonearm. Technically not difficult. Biggest hassle is getting a bearing into the arm tube. I've managed to record the Sugden/"219" tonearm playing together nicely..(video). Unsure of the best way to post it on the Internet.
The arm pictured is effective length:= 330 mm
The parts sent to Dave were for 300mm (12") ones.
These arms perform at a level that is not embarrassed being compared to an SME 309 (magnesium).
Nanook tonearm
Hi,
Nice work on the tt and arm. I have been playing around with arms and would be interested in a set of the parts. I want to make a 12" arm for my denon dp-72 that has been modded. I have a pioneer donor tt that I will use for the bearing. PM me Dave if there are any parts available. Thanks.
Hi,
Nice work on the tt and arm. I have been playing around with arms and would be interested in a set of the parts. I want to make a 12" arm for my denon dp-72 that has been modded. I have a pioneer donor tt that I will use for the bearing. PM me Dave if there are any parts available. Thanks.
biggest hassle...
is installing the female portion of the bearing in the arm tube itself. For the ones I sent to Dave at the Van Isle DIY audio 'fest, I installed the female portions into the arm tubes. The bearing pivot itself or the "high quality tungsten carbide ball bearing in a precision carrier" is a cheap pen refill with a metal tube. They should be opened up and the ink washed out with solvent. Then refill with a light machine oil if you like.
You can use anything for a carrier for the "bearing" housing. I've used collars with a set screw. ? You will need something for a counter-weight (I use salvaged ones from old FUGLY turntables, but collars could be used there as well), it should weigh between 75-95 grams (no more).
I am not sure if Bernie had enough Yamamoto-inspired headshells for all the parts. That is the 2nd hassle. Making or procuring the headshells. Bernie's headshells were quite good. If you use 2mm screws and nuts to hold the cartridge, there should be enough room to "twist" the cartridge in the head-shell.
One thing not fully explained is my choice for mounting the counter-weight. I used masking tape on the arm tube. Then I made a little knot, tying a small piece of steel wire , and then running the wire through a washer and the counter-weight. Then I knotted it as close as possible to the arm tube. Because the wire doesn't slip on the masking tape, merely rotating the counterweight "knot" on the arm adjusts azimuth. Stupid simple
Hope that helps.
Dave, please direct any asking about the actual instrux to put the arm together to this thread. I still don't know why the slideshow didn't make it intact to you.
is installing the female portion of the bearing in the arm tube itself. For the ones I sent to Dave at the Van Isle DIY audio 'fest, I installed the female portions into the arm tubes. The bearing pivot itself or the "high quality tungsten carbide ball bearing in a precision carrier" is a cheap pen refill with a metal tube. They should be opened up and the ink washed out with solvent. Then refill with a light machine oil if you like.
You can use anything for a carrier for the "bearing" housing. I've used collars with a set screw. ? You will need something for a counter-weight (I use salvaged ones from old FUGLY turntables, but collars could be used there as well), it should weigh between 75-95 grams (no more).
I am not sure if Bernie had enough Yamamoto-inspired headshells for all the parts. That is the 2nd hassle. Making or procuring the headshells. Bernie's headshells were quite good. If you use 2mm screws and nuts to hold the cartridge, there should be enough room to "twist" the cartridge in the head-shell.
One thing not fully explained is my choice for mounting the counter-weight. I used masking tape on the arm tube. Then I made a little knot, tying a small piece of steel wire , and then running the wire through a washer and the counter-weight. Then I knotted it as close as possible to the arm tube. Because the wire doesn't slip on the masking tape, merely rotating the counterweight "knot" on the arm adjusts azimuth. Stupid simple
Hope that helps.
Dave, please direct any asking about the actual instrux to put the arm together to this thread. I still don't know why the slideshow didn't make it intact to you.
The "kits" i have, have a wooden base matching the headshell. All one needs to do is rig up a counterweight.
I have most of the slideshow... it is just missing a couple pictures. It should thou, be made into a pdf, not everyone has PowerPoint or Keynote, and i am running into a lot of people with issues of PP (older) crashing in the lastest OS.
Don't know what the cork is for.
dave
Attachments
I'll take you up on that. Just in time too, I was probably gonna attach the arm I had soon. Look familiar?
Attachments
BD-1 + Pioneer PL-514.
A budget giant killer. And you don't need to remove that arm to add a Nanook 129.
Mail me your address, i'll figure post... probably about $10-12.
dave
PS: Brenton (in NW Calgary) is ready to have visitors to come over and listen to his Saburo sporting FE126eN, you & Stew were on my quick & nasty list of those who might be interested. (althou stew, now that he has a job, can afford to travel, but hasn't the time)
A budget giant killer. And you don't need to remove that arm to add a Nanook 129.
Mail me your address, i'll figure post... probably about $10-12.
dave
PS: Brenton (in NW Calgary) is ready to have visitors to come over and listen to his Saburo sporting FE126eN, you & Stew were on my quick & nasty list of those who might be interested. (althou stew, now that he has a job, can afford to travel, but hasn't the time
)
PS: Brenton (in NW Calgary) is ready to have visitors to come over and listen to his Saburo sporting FE126eN, you & Stew were on my quick & nasty list of those who might be interested. (althou stew, now that he has a job, can afford to travel, but hasn't the time
That's pretty cool. I'll bring the DBR TB's, should inspire his confidence when the Saburo beats them
Is Brenton "metalman", he's in my neighbourhood.
Hi,
quite a treat of a tonearm.
What do you use for the "female" part of the bearing ?
B.L
P10 and wjlamp
Dave:
Brenton is a psychologist (I spent some time on the phone with him in a non-professional capacity...)
wjlamp:
Special secret ingredient. Grade8 steel insert, with polymer "filler" to limit the movement of the tip of the bearing...(set screw with a UV hardening epoxy).
the arm is better than it has any right to be and competes with my SME
Dave:
Brenton is a psychologist (I spent some time on the phone with him in a non-professional capacity...)
wjlamp:
Special secret ingredient. Grade8 steel insert, with polymer "filler" to limit the movement of the tip of the bearing...(set screw with a UV hardening epoxy).
the arm is better than it has any right to be and competes with my SME
Thanks for the recipe. I think that modesty has no place here.What makes you say that the tonearm exceeds its rights.Black arts are b.....t.
If the mechanics of the arm are in synergy with your turntable and cartridge,
who gives a damn about SME.
BTW, a psychologist is a must see before a visit to dentist
B.L
Thanx for the correction... if you get a chance go listen to his Saburo. He may also be doing a set of FH3.
dave
"special secret ingredients"
wjlamp:, I say that it sounds better than it has a right to, based on the actual costs associated with making one, and how good it is (only in my estimation) compared to my SME 309. I paid full pop for the '309, and I don't regret buying it.
Once I decided to try making an arm, (and I've made a few), I've had a rough time correlating cost to quality. And in an absolute basis, I believe my DIY arm is in the same league as the 309, everything else being equal in the playback chain.
I've had others comment on the arm (those few who have actually heard any of them), and their thoughts are similar to mine.
And in this case there is no b*****it about any of it. The materials were chosen carefully with an eye towards a level of quality and the potential level of performance using commonly available items. Good design need not cost more
Any that know me , know that as far as audio goes, I do have a certain level of competency (I'm not suggesting you made any statements regarding me or my abilities or lack of). I am just reinforcing that if an eye is kept on the prize, it is amazing what one can accomplish, if they have a basic understanding of the criteria that needs to be met that may make a successful outcome likely. In the case of my "219" tonearm I believe the outcome has exceeded what I thought the potential would be .
Please, try making an arm yourself (Dave has a few "kits" left over). A lot of laughs (and great performance) for very little money. The "219" refers to the number of pennies it cost me to make my first example.
wjlamp:, I say that it sounds better than it has a right to, based on the actual costs associated with making one, and how good it is (only in my estimation) compared to my SME 309. I paid full pop for the '309, and I don't regret buying it.
Once I decided to try making an arm, (and I've made a few), I've had a rough time correlating cost to quality. And in an absolute basis, I believe my DIY arm is in the same league as the 309, everything else being equal in the playback chain.
I've had others comment on the arm (those few who have actually heard any of them), and their thoughts are similar to mine.
And in this case there is no b*****it about any of it. The materials were chosen carefully with an eye towards a level of quality and the potential level of performance using commonly available items. Good design need not cost more
Any that know me , know that as far as audio goes, I do have a certain level of competency (I'm not suggesting you made any statements regarding me or my abilities or lack of). I am just reinforcing that if an eye is kept on the prize, it is amazing what one can accomplish, if they have a basic understanding of the criteria that needs to be met that may make a successful outcome likely. In the case of my "219" tonearm I believe the outcome has exceeded what I thought the potential would be .
Please, try making an arm yourself (Dave has a few "kits" left over). A lot of laughs (and great performance) for very little money. The "219" refers to the number of pennies it cost me to make my first example.
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Hi Jeff and All,
This couldn't have come at a better time for me, as I have just acquired an absolutely mint (less than 5 years old) Oak SOTA "Star" TT. The previous owner "upgraded" to a SME TT and switched his SME tonearm and Benz cartridge to the new deck.
I must admit that this is far better than anything that I could have imagined ever owning, but I believe that I'll try the "219" tonearm, as I feel that it's of similar quality and should complement the TT. I've been saving a "mouse cord" for the wiring, so I'm about half way there already.
It seems that the "Hidden Hand of Fate" is directing me toward an all Vinyl, Tube driven system, which is really annoying, as I had originally envisioned a Radio Shack/ MP3 Mid/Low FI system, which is more in keeping with my character and taste. Oh, Darn it anyway!!!
Best Regards,
Terry
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Hi Jeff,
There's a couple of problems:
1. I really don't know how to post pictures.
2. It's still in the packing crate and I don't have enough room currently to set it up.
Just the same, I'm certainly excited about the whole thing.
Best Regards,
Terry
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