The intention is to drill through the ball to have it slide and the top for the wand to go through but my drilling was going nowhere. I will have another go with oil and slow speed 🙂 thanks for the tip.
Well you have to have something to set the arm onto 😉 .
The table has been waiting in the wings for some time. Remember I have been listening to my 219 on my Sugden BD1 for 5 years, so I've had plenty of time to think of the turntable. I had been involved with the redesign of a turntable that never went anywhere, and spec'd a turntable and started a design, but the manufacturer decided to purchase an existing design and sell it rather than make his own
Squiffything: make do with what you have, unless a good used small lathe comes along and can be had within your (I assume) educated budget. A "string-hung" weight seems a natural yo mr in this instance. Or you could try a simplified version of the Roksan counter-weight unsure if I had posted this). By the way, it is amazing what can be made on a kitchen table (figuratively) with but a few small hand tools. I think your base and bearing housing are very good. But as per usual, I think the simpler the method, the better the result can be (in an Einsteinian way). That is 'as simple as possible, as complicated as need be'. Thus I will continue using the bearing within the shaft.
Turbon: Again, pretty amazing for a few bits and pieces. Depending on the total mass of the tonearm and cartridge, most are amazed at the responsiveness and ability to track that the 219 exhibits. And that tracking ability or responsiveness seems to occur during playback in an appreciable way.
The table has been waiting in the wings for some time. Remember I have been listening to my 219 on my Sugden BD1 for 5 years, so I've had plenty of time to think of the turntable. I had been involved with the redesign of a turntable that never went anywhere, and spec'd a turntable and started a design, but the manufacturer decided to purchase an existing design and sell it rather than make his own
Squiffything: make do with what you have, unless a good used small lathe comes along and can be had within your (I assume) educated budget. A "string-hung" weight seems a natural yo mr in this instance. Or you could try a simplified version of the Roksan counter-weight unsure if I had posted this). By the way, it is amazing what can be made on a kitchen table (figuratively) with but a few small hand tools. I think your base and bearing housing are very good. But as per usual, I think the simpler the method, the better the result can be (in an Einsteinian way). That is 'as simple as possible, as complicated as need be'. Thus I will continue using the bearing within the shaft.
Turbon: Again, pretty amazing for a few bits and pieces. Depending on the total mass of the tonearm and cartridge, most are amazed at the responsiveness and ability to track that the 219 exhibits. And that tracking ability or responsiveness seems to occur during playback in an appreciable way.
Attachments
Stew, thanks again for your comments, my attempts are to try things out, experiment with what I have and to see how things turn out. I enjoy the fun of the build and do strive to achieve a final result that works and gives a good look and sound. The first version was a success in the sound in that it produced a very pleasing result. The second version has a very pleasing look and hopefully will sound as good as the first. If so then it will be fitted as a perminant addition to the Saturn. I could not, however, ever see it becoming good enough to be considered as a commercial product and I applaud your version for being that good and wish you every success and offer any assistance you may require in getting it there. Good luck in your efforts in getting it there.
Nanook,
A thanks to all who participated in this thread. But most of all, a big thanks goes
to Nanook for conceiving the 219 tonearm. You have put in a lot of time and effort into this project. You should be recognized for what you attempt to do,
unselfishly create a commercial tonearm to benefit the public. The tonearm will
be a game changer. For $250.00 this is the bargain of the century. I can see every Technics SL-1200 turntable using the 219 tonearm. The kickstarter will be the first step. To build the tonearm will take effort, business smarts, and require patience from the audiophile community as we wait for the tonearm to take flight. Thank you for taking this risk.
A thanks to all who participated in this thread. But most of all, a big thanks goes
to Nanook for conceiving the 219 tonearm. You have put in a lot of time and effort into this project. You should be recognized for what you attempt to do,
unselfishly create a commercial tonearm to benefit the public. The tonearm will
be a game changer. For $250.00 this is the bargain of the century. I can see every Technics SL-1200 turntable using the 219 tonearm. The kickstarter will be the first step. To build the tonearm will take effort, business smarts, and require patience from the audiophile community as we wait for the tonearm to take flight. Thank you for taking this risk.
Please post the links to Nanook's 2 articles.
1. HI FI ZINE a recipe for a turntable. march 2011
2. AffordableAudio NOV 2010 issue #59
From the Pulpit: The Nanook $2.19 Tonearm
1. HI FI ZINE a recipe for a turntable. march 2011
2. AffordableAudio NOV 2010 issue #59
From the Pulpit: The Nanook $2.19 Tonearm
The AR turntables of the 60s and 70s were low cost but effective. The Technics SL-1200/1210 turntables were affordable to buy new and sold 3 million
units. The AR and Technics stood the test of time. And it is also time for Nanook to start a thread on his vision of a turntable. And in the final analysis offer the turntable for public consumption. Let the new thread begin.
units. The AR and Technics stood the test of time. And it is also time for Nanook to start a thread on his vision of a turntable. And in the final analysis offer the turntable for public consumption. Let the new thread begin.
A little patience please.
Squiffy :yes those are them. I have had my own thoughts on turntables for years. Especially having torn an Ariston RD11 apart only to realize that although a good performer, it really is just crap. Yes a wooden plinth, but not hardwood (it was only veneered MDF or worse. Certain aspects of it were well built and nice and basic. THe platter/subplatter were nice. The bearing was OK. The motor was the typical, terrible Airpax/Thompson/Premotec which by today's standards is nothing special. My Oracle Alex MkII is similar, although more sophisticated regarding electronic speed controls, etc. The wooden surround on this turntable appears to be solid wood. The motor is a "flywheel" Pabst motor (IIRC). But nothing earth shattering.There has to be a better way.
audiostar: OK, I'll start the TT thread. This has been something that I believe to be of benefit to anyone who is concerned about the high cost of ownership of a turntable (including a tonearm). This really is the crux of attracting people to the joys of analog ownership---the cost of a playback rig and the cost of new vinyl. But if the buy in can be low enough it could allow folks to rediscover their records (a friend had collected every Beetles album, as they were released in North America and still has them all, but hasn't listened to them for years). One day I may have to spec out what I consider to be a "minimum" cartridge, and phonostage as these last two would complete the package.
All 😛lease be a little patient as I try to juggle some of this stuff. Again, I am unsure if the TT project will end up being a case of modifying an existing turntable or making a new one from existing "custom" parts available. Have no doubt that idlers and rim drives will be featured as my personal experiences have suggested that they are perhaps one of the easiest and best sounding implementations that can be had at a reasonable cost (just check out the used Lenco market if unsure how popular some turntables have become). All should note as well that I have no particular bias towards belt, direct idler or rim drives types, just that I believe the last two offer some interesting options to a DIY builder. I do have a few direct drives at home as well as a few belt drive types.
The frustration about the costs of audio equipment is something that I think I've championed for more than a few years, beginning when I started selling audio 25 years ago. The most satisfaction I had as a salesman was when I put together a package for someone who had very limited funds, but yet loved music. Some of these folks literally didn't have a pot to **** in, but loved music. Much to my employer's chagrin, I put as much or more effort into these folks as those that had a fair amount of disposable cash. A typical "budget" system that I would recommend would something like:
So there's perhaps a little more background and the inception of my frustration at the high cost of audio components. This is not to say that high end products are not worth their cost, but rather some thoughts on high value systems and the fact that some folks simply cannot afford them. I've purchased a few items over the years that I continue to enjoy today, but many have been used. Very few have been new purchases. I simply didn't have the funds (and still don't). Enough said.
Squiffy :yes those are them. I have had my own thoughts on turntables for years. Especially having torn an Ariston RD11 apart only to realize that although a good performer, it really is just crap. Yes a wooden plinth, but not hardwood (it was only veneered MDF or worse. Certain aspects of it were well built and nice and basic. THe platter/subplatter were nice. The bearing was OK. The motor was the typical, terrible Airpax/Thompson/Premotec which by today's standards is nothing special. My Oracle Alex MkII is similar, although more sophisticated regarding electronic speed controls, etc. The wooden surround on this turntable appears to be solid wood. The motor is a "flywheel" Pabst motor (IIRC). But nothing earth shattering.There has to be a better way.
audiostar: OK, I'll start the TT thread. This has been something that I believe to be of benefit to anyone who is concerned about the high cost of ownership of a turntable (including a tonearm). This really is the crux of attracting people to the joys of analog ownership---the cost of a playback rig and the cost of new vinyl. But if the buy in can be low enough it could allow folks to rediscover their records (a friend had collected every Beetles album, as they were released in North America and still has them all, but hasn't listened to them for years). One day I may have to spec out what I consider to be a "minimum" cartridge, and phonostage as these last two would complete the package.
All 😛lease be a little patient as I try to juggle some of this stuff. Again, I am unsure if the TT project will end up being a case of modifying an existing turntable or making a new one from existing "custom" parts available. Have no doubt that idlers and rim drives will be featured as my personal experiences have suggested that they are perhaps one of the easiest and best sounding implementations that can be had at a reasonable cost (just check out the used Lenco market if unsure how popular some turntables have become). All should note as well that I have no particular bias towards belt, direct idler or rim drives types, just that I believe the last two offer some interesting options to a DIY builder. I do have a few direct drives at home as well as a few belt drive types.
The frustration about the costs of audio equipment is something that I think I've championed for more than a few years, beginning when I started selling audio 25 years ago. The most satisfaction I had as a salesman was when I put together a package for someone who had very limited funds, but yet loved music. Some of these folks literally didn't have a pot to **** in, but loved music. Much to my employer's chagrin, I put as much or more effort into these folks as those that had a fair amount of disposable cash. A typical "budget" system that I would recommend would something like:
- a small reciever (NAD or Nakamichi )
- a high value source such as an original Revolver split plinth turntable (including arm and cartridge)
- Technics cd player, and or a good quality cassette deck (which was very customer dependent)
- a pair of good basic speakers like B&W DM220s, DCM Timeframe 250 (which were terribly built, but sounded pretty good)
So there's perhaps a little more background and the inception of my frustration at the high cost of audio components. This is not to say that high end products are not worth their cost, but rather some thoughts on high value systems and the fact that some folks simply cannot afford them. I've purchased a few items over the years that I continue to enjoy today, but many have been used. Very few have been new purchases. I simply didn't have the funds (and still don't). Enough said.
Not all turntables can accomodate a 12 inch arm. The compromise will be a 10.5
inch arm. So all turntables can fit a 10.5 inch arm? I have a Technics SL-1200 mk2 turntable.
inch arm. So all turntables can fit a 10.5 inch arm? I have a Technics SL-1200 mk2 turntable.
Just slap on an addition, a deck or porch or whatever. Make it work. Length matters. Otherwise just shop for a Technics SL something or copy thereof if footprint is the big (small) deal. This is DIY right?
NAD or Nakamichi. The basis of systems that I now assemble from the thrift store realm. My retail experience is limited to car audio back in the 80's, when I found a very listenable system could be sourced at RS, though I preferred the nicer stuff from Just Speakers. Audax, SEAS, Scanspeak, Focal, Morel...I've been looking at invoices from those days and good stuff was cheap.
Stew have you spec'd cartridge characteristics that work well with the 219? Please don't send me back to the beginning of this thread please.
NAD or Nakamichi. The basis of systems that I now assemble from the thrift store realm. My retail experience is limited to car audio back in the 80's, when I found a very listenable system could be sourced at RS, though I preferred the nicer stuff from Just Speakers. Audax, SEAS, Scanspeak, Focal, Morel...I've been looking at invoices from those days and good stuff was cheap.
Stew have you spec'd cartridge characteristics that work well with the 219? Please don't send me back to the beginning of this thread please.
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The compromise is an arm that CAN fit most tables...
... with a minor amount of rework or lack of a custom mount.
audiostar: It is not much of a reach to 10.5" arm from a 9". I am unsure of the Technics arms or their mounting schemes, but an EPA120 arm (as fitted to the SL1200) only has an effective length of 220mm, and a pivot to spindle measurement of 206mm. So they are pretty short. Picking a typical length and offset for a 10.5" arm, we can have a effective length of 266.7 mm, and O/H of 15.4mm, and an O/S of 20.5. Pivot to spindle is 251.3. A better match would be using 266/250 for the effective length and mounting distance, and the OH/OS of 16/20 . Either one would work. Both are in the neighbourhood of 50mm difference or only 2" or so. That should be easy enough to accomplish using some aluminium plate. Make a template that can screw to the existing mounting holes on your turntable. It should be aligned radially with the spindle. Then draw a line from the centre of the spindle out to the template at the correct pivot to spindle distance. Make the portion that would screw to the factory mount suitably large. The far end of the plate should allow for the base of the 219 to rest comfortably on the plate without the fear of knocking it off. In the case of mounting a 12" arm to my Sugden replinth, I ended up glueing and screwing a couple of pieces of 1/2" material to the RHS rear corner. It works wonderfully.
I am assuming of course most folks can figure out a reasonable extended mounting plate or external housing on their own, dependent on what turntable they have as well as a suitable mounting distance. Now if folks use my "plunk down" style arm mount, it will not matter too much. Just remove your existing arm. Mark out the required location of the pivot, and place the tonearm base with the pivot at your marked location.
phivates: Nope, I won't do that. Figure a complete 219 will weigh approximately 22.5 to 28 grams complete with hardware, internal wiring, cartridge connectors, and cartridge screws, and cartridge. Wooden ones will weigh towards the 22 gram mark with a cartridge like a Grado or Ortofon MC3 Turbo, with a Scheu style headshell the mass will go up to the 29 gram mark with a similar cartridge. From there you need to do whatever calculations you do to check compatibility and resonant frequency of the tonearm/cartridge system. Lots of spots to get the equation, just google "cartridge tonearm resonance calculation". Here's a good explanation (if a little long). An easy to use calculator is located here.
If I assume a Grado cartridge with a mass of 4.5 grams and a compliance of 45, and using a metal "Scheu" headshell, the calculations result in a resonant frequency of only 4.4 HZ! Way too low. The same cartridge and arm, but using the lighter wooden headshell results in a resonant frequency of about 7Hz. Most agree that a resonant frequency centred around 11-12Hz is good, but I've found you can err on the light side as long as it is within a few Hz of the optimal (say 3-4Hz deviation low...). It is easy enough to add mass to the tonearm/cartridge system...but subtracting it is the hard part. Read the caveat that Wally Malewicz regarding compliance specifications. I do assume that most will have a basic understanding of resonance and the cartridge/arm compatibility issues.
Hope that helps all.
And for those wanting to look at the Nanook TT thread, it's here
... with a minor amount of rework or lack of a custom mount.
audiostar: It is not much of a reach to 10.5" arm from a 9". I am unsure of the Technics arms or their mounting schemes, but an EPA120 arm (as fitted to the SL1200) only has an effective length of 220mm, and a pivot to spindle measurement of 206mm. So they are pretty short. Picking a typical length and offset for a 10.5" arm, we can have a effective length of 266.7 mm, and O/H of 15.4mm, and an O/S of 20.5. Pivot to spindle is 251.3. A better match would be using 266/250 for the effective length and mounting distance, and the OH/OS of 16/20 . Either one would work. Both are in the neighbourhood of 50mm difference or only 2" or so. That should be easy enough to accomplish using some aluminium plate. Make a template that can screw to the existing mounting holes on your turntable. It should be aligned radially with the spindle. Then draw a line from the centre of the spindle out to the template at the correct pivot to spindle distance. Make the portion that would screw to the factory mount suitably large. The far end of the plate should allow for the base of the 219 to rest comfortably on the plate without the fear of knocking it off. In the case of mounting a 12" arm to my Sugden replinth, I ended up glueing and screwing a couple of pieces of 1/2" material to the RHS rear corner. It works wonderfully.
I am assuming of course most folks can figure out a reasonable extended mounting plate or external housing on their own, dependent on what turntable they have as well as a suitable mounting distance. Now if folks use my "plunk down" style arm mount, it will not matter too much. Just remove your existing arm. Mark out the required location of the pivot, and place the tonearm base with the pivot at your marked location.
phivates: Nope, I won't do that. Figure a complete 219 will weigh approximately 22.5 to 28 grams complete with hardware, internal wiring, cartridge connectors, and cartridge screws, and cartridge. Wooden ones will weigh towards the 22 gram mark with a cartridge like a Grado or Ortofon MC3 Turbo, with a Scheu style headshell the mass will go up to the 29 gram mark with a similar cartridge. From there you need to do whatever calculations you do to check compatibility and resonant frequency of the tonearm/cartridge system. Lots of spots to get the equation, just google "cartridge tonearm resonance calculation". Here's a good explanation (if a little long). An easy to use calculator is located here.
If I assume a Grado cartridge with a mass of 4.5 grams and a compliance of 45, and using a metal "Scheu" headshell, the calculations result in a resonant frequency of only 4.4 HZ! Way too low. The same cartridge and arm, but using the lighter wooden headshell results in a resonant frequency of about 7Hz. Most agree that a resonant frequency centred around 11-12Hz is good, but I've found you can err on the light side as long as it is within a few Hz of the optimal (say 3-4Hz deviation low...). It is easy enough to add mass to the tonearm/cartridge system...but subtracting it is the hard part. Read the caveat that Wally Malewicz regarding compliance specifications. I do assume that most will have a basic understanding of resonance and the cartridge/arm compatibility issues.
Hope that helps all.
And for those wanting to look at the Nanook TT thread, it's here
Very very nice arm...
It revived my whole stock of albums... Shouldn't sound this good.
Now creating my second one - The Stick (the first one was The Tube). A bit heavier for lower compliance carts. I would love to hear what ideas you all have about this...
Maybe it should be in it's own thread but since the basic principles would be the same - I'll give it a shot.
Gathered so far - everything. Instead of using a quite thick wall carbon tube I found a gallow from presumably the fifties that had a lot lower resonant tone than the tube of carbon. Oh, yes - I need something to measure the weight. Will search the shops during the week. I would also like to find a cheap needle pressure gadget.
I took the straight stick out of the gallow and found it's an ellipse. Now, the vibrations from the cart is mostly in the horisontal plane so the broadest part of it goes into that plane. The alternatives of a headshell is either brass or wood. I will probably test both before I secure the headshell. Cabeling - what do you propose as the golden midway - shaked and dried of snakeoil? I wan't green, blue, red, white and black. 5m of each.
Oh, yes. If you have broken hi-end carts - don't throw them away - PM me and they might be worth something (the kinds you cannot exchange needles in...)...
Brgds
It revived my whole stock of albums... Shouldn't sound this good.
Now creating my second one - The Stick (the first one was The Tube). A bit heavier for lower compliance carts. I would love to hear what ideas you all have about this...
Maybe it should be in it's own thread but since the basic principles would be the same - I'll give it a shot.
Gathered so far - everything. Instead of using a quite thick wall carbon tube I found a gallow from presumably the fifties that had a lot lower resonant tone than the tube of carbon. Oh, yes - I need something to measure the weight. Will search the shops during the week. I would also like to find a cheap needle pressure gadget.
I took the straight stick out of the gallow and found it's an ellipse. Now, the vibrations from the cart is mostly in the horisontal plane so the broadest part of it goes into that plane. The alternatives of a headshell is either brass or wood. I will probably test both before I secure the headshell. Cabeling - what do you propose as the golden midway - shaked and dried of snakeoil? I wan't green, blue, red, white and black. 5m of each.
Oh, yes. If you have broken hi-end carts - don't throw them away - PM me and they might be worth something (the kinds you cannot exchange needles in...)...
Brgds
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Any pictures of your arm Turbon?
Love to see pictures, if you have any. Also what cartridge are you using?
As far as being on another thread, I think it is perfect to leave it here. The only difference is the arm wand material. A friend had suggested making a tonearm of paper. I think it would be interesting, but the consistency of the paper would be paramount. Perhaps the very long rolling papers for making 3 cigarettes at a time with a rolling machine would work?
I am very happy that the arm has renewed your interest in your LPs, and that you are now enjoying them more. That was/is the goal of this tonearm, good sound with a small investment.
Personally I like wood as a material. I think you will find that the wood arm may not be as heavy as you think it might be. Another idea would be to use a drum stick and trim it down to a more appropriate length.
For a scale I use an inexpensive digital scale capable of +/- 0.005 grams, 80 grams maximum weight. These can be had all over for little money (they can also be used to measure VTF to 2 decimal places, so pretty high precision. A scale capable of +/- 0.0005 (so 3 digit precision) is more difficult to find and probably 4X's the cost.
Love to see pictures, if you have any. Also what cartridge are you using?
As far as being on another thread, I think it is perfect to leave it here. The only difference is the arm wand material. A friend had suggested making a tonearm of paper. I think it would be interesting, but the consistency of the paper would be paramount. Perhaps the very long rolling papers for making 3 cigarettes at a time with a rolling machine would work?
I am very happy that the arm has renewed your interest in your LPs, and that you are now enjoying them more. That was/is the goal of this tonearm, good sound with a small investment.
Personally I like wood as a material. I think you will find that the wood arm may not be as heavy as you think it might be. Another idea would be to use a drum stick and trim it down to a more appropriate length.
For a scale I use an inexpensive digital scale capable of +/- 0.005 grams, 80 grams maximum weight. These can be had all over for little money (they can also be used to measure VTF to 2 decimal places, so pretty high precision. A scale capable of +/- 0.0005 (so 3 digit precision) is more difficult to find and probably 4X's the cost.
Yes, have thought a bit of what drumsticks are made of. I have also started to learn a lot about trees, reading about their specifications... So, this arm is really a win, win and win situation. You get the credit - I get arms and the trees get fixed...
I found a site where they created different instruments out of paper... Still, I want shiny parts and so forth - so paper is not on my agenda for the mment anyway. Still searching for a perfect rod for the Stick. Most interested in different wood rods and their sonics with heavier carts.
I found a site where they created different instruments out of paper... Still, I want shiny parts and so forth - so paper is not on my agenda for the mment anyway. Still searching for a perfect rod for the Stick. Most interested in different wood rods and their sonics with heavier carts.
drumsticks as tonearms...
many are made of rock maple or hickory. Pretty inexpensive if you consider he high level of finish (even on real "cheapies"). If possible I'd either bore out the centre of the drumstick, or cut a dado into it to effectively make a "U" shaped profile. THe sticks are typically between 0.500" and 0.650" for most common ones. They will not be as stiff as the aluminium, but should be "stiff enough". Please report back on your results (because I am willing to believe that perhaps there may be a better material than what I've been using.
many are made of rock maple or hickory. Pretty inexpensive if you consider he high level of finish (even on real "cheapies"). If possible I'd either bore out the centre of the drumstick, or cut a dado into it to effectively make a "U" shaped profile. THe sticks are typically between 0.500" and 0.650" for most common ones. They will not be as stiff as the aluminium, but should be "stiff enough". Please report back on your results (because I am willing to believe that perhaps there may be a better material than what I've been using.
What about balsa wood? Very very light. Is there a minimum weight that should be adhered to? I'm thinking that if the headshell is enough to keep the stylus on the vinyl then a very light arm structure with minimum weight to keep it balanced might be a improvement in the sound reproduction.
unsure about balsa wood.
It seems to me that most tonearms have an effective mass of between 10 and 17 grams.
One thing that most forget though is that you can have an arm that is too light. Everyone should have a look here for a quick n'dirty explanation. Also make use of the resonant frequency calculator, or just write down the equation.
rf = 159 / sqrt ((eff. mass + cart weight + fastener weight) * (compliance))
Here's another one. I guess you can always make one. I do think it will need to be stiffened.
It seems to me that most tonearms have an effective mass of between 10 and 17 grams.
One thing that most forget though is that you can have an arm that is too light. Everyone should have a look here for a quick n'dirty explanation. Also make use of the resonant frequency calculator, or just write down the equation.
rf = 159 / sqrt ((eff. mass + cart weight + fastener weight) * (compliance))
Here's another one. I guess you can always make one. I do think it will need to be stiffened.
Balsa Arm & Cart repair
Squiffy,
A balsa arm with headshell & bearing (Fuse cap) No wires though, will come in at about 4.5 grams. Vs Easton GameGetter Ali arrow tube, same length but no headshell, bearing, Or wire, will be apron 12 grams.
Stew,
I did make one & yes your right it will need to be stiffened, I used X bracing ala funk bros.
& that works well.
One day I will try it out when the decks are sorted.
All;
The Cartridge Cantilever repair I've just done link; 😀
http://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=14507.msg213333#msg213333
Jay
Squiffy,
A balsa arm with headshell & bearing (Fuse cap) No wires though, will come in at about 4.5 grams. Vs Easton GameGetter Ali arrow tube, same length but no headshell, bearing, Or wire, will be apron 12 grams.
Stew,
I did make one & yes your right it will need to be stiffened, I used X bracing ala funk bros.
& that works well. One day I will try it out when the decks are sorted.
All;
The Cartridge Cantilever repair I've just done link; 😀
http://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=14507.msg213333#msg213333
Jay
great reference for those of us not made of $$$s...
Jay, Thanks for your link to your cantilever /cartridge repair. The photos are very good and self explanatory. When I grow up "I wanna be just like you..." as King Louis the orangutang sings in Disney's "the Jungle Book" (or better yet the Los Lobos version of it which is on one of my favourite records of all time "Stay Awake").
Jay, Thanks for your link to your cantilever /cartridge repair. The photos are very good and self explanatory. When I grow up "I wanna be just like you..." as King Louis the orangutang sings in Disney's "the Jungle Book" (or better yet the Los Lobos version of it which is on one of my favourite records of all time "Stay Awake").
After my 'man cub' 'swinging in the trees' youth, ( "my old mans a dustman" Loney Donigan ) I were a hippy/biker, (Black Sabbath) we used to have great fun using slated bamboo place mats to roll up rather long, 3' was the longest, B/day joints.
Just a thought but it might help to roll up paper tubes.
Jay
Just a thought but it might help to roll up paper tubes.
Jay
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