Next up is my DCB1/DAC project.
Then a 6V6GTA SET amp, and a class AB or class D SS amp and converting my super sevens to active/passive bi-amping.
Then a 6V6GTA SET amp, and a class AB or class D SS amp and converting my super sevens to active/passive bi-amping.
Ooh! Pretty! Nicely done sir!
BTW, that Nakamichi CD4 is a very good sounding piece, I would keep it until it dies.
BTW, that Nakamichi CD4 is a very good sounding piece, I would keep it until it dies.
Yes, I picked it up used for $10, it has been in my system for at least 2 years, longer than any piece of equipment.
It'll sound even better when I hook it up to my new DAC.
It'll sound even better when I hook it up to my new DAC.
Will,
You might even build your own turntable and you'd have pretty much done it all, including having earned the hatred of old, cranky guys with Bondo covered projects!
Just kidding, I admire your work very much!
Best Regards,
Terry
You might even build your own turntable and you'd have pretty much done it all, including having earned the hatred of old, cranky guys with Bondo covered projects!
Just kidding, I admire your work very much!
Best Regards,
Terry
yea not too shabby for someone that can't purchase alcoholic beverages legally 🙂
wishing i'd found diy electronics at such an early age .
superb job SirByrd !
cheers Woody
wishing i'd found diy electronics at such an early age .
superb job SirByrd !
cheers Woody
F3 with silmic-ii output caps and a dedicated output for the tweeter.
http://amattsso.1g.fi/kuvat/Audio/DSC_8469.jpg/full

http://amattsso.1g.fi/kuvat/Audio/DSC_8469.jpg/full
My unfinished F5
Here is my F5 not yet complete, but getting very close.
I still have to Anodized the top and front plates "clear mat", and paint black the perforated plates and two stripes on the front plate where the white LED's are going. The clear mat finish should come up nice.
And also some feet to stand on.
Can't wait to listen to it again.
Ill post the finished product soon.

Here is my F5 not yet complete, but getting very close.
I still have to Anodized the top and front plates "clear mat", and paint black the perforated plates and two stripes on the front plate where the white LED's are going. The clear mat finish should come up nice.
And also some feet to stand on.
Can't wait to listen to it again.
Ill post the finished product soon.

Aleph 30
Aleph P 1.7 (work in progress)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Aleph P 1.7 (work in progress)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Attachments
Last edited:
Hafler Pro2400 to Delite conversion.
Here's a picture of my Hafler Pro2400 to Delite conversion. Using an IRFP240 as a capacitance multiplier, 500W/120V halogen tube for a load resistor. Signal transistor is a IXTH6N50D2, 52V after the capacitance multiplier, 23.5V at the drain, 1.6A.
With the capacitance multiplier, barely audible hum at the listening position, no HF hash even with my head stuck into these:
Sound is pretty good so far, need to play with some bypass caps for the output electrolytic..
Roscoe
Here's a picture of my Hafler Pro2400 to Delite conversion. Using an IRFP240 as a capacitance multiplier, 500W/120V halogen tube for a load resistor. Signal transistor is a IXTH6N50D2, 52V after the capacitance multiplier, 23.5V at the drain, 1.6A.
With the capacitance multiplier, barely audible hum at the listening position, no HF hash even with my head stuck into these:
Sound is pretty good so far, need to play with some bypass caps for the output electrolytic..
Roscoe
Attachments
The Best - First Watt F3
Andrej,
It looks like you used the 400mm deep (two heatsinks each side) Pessante Dissipante from Modu. I have a similar chassis in my garage. How did you arrange the transistors and how many watts per device are the heatsinks dissipating? I was thinking of using the same heatsinks for the BA-2 (three pairs of mosfets for each channel). Do you think it is up to the job?
Chris
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