I realize that perhaps this could be brought up in a different part of the forum. Please pardon me if this is problematic. I have posted before concerning this project before but can't seem to find where I left off. I purchased what was advertised as a Bogen CHA70 PA amplifier which was actually a CHA75a. I had posted about it before I had received it and some had told me it must be a CHA75a. I thankfully received a link to Electronic Service Manuals.com where I was able to buy a schematic for the correct model for $5. I checked it out and it shows a very "busy" looking circuit with 4 X 6AV5Ga output tubes and some others that I have not seen before. The gentleman who gave me the schematic link told me that it must be a CHA75 and would have 2 X 7027a output tubes!? There have been several others who have also told me that it should have the 7027a's and LO AND BEHOLD, when the amp came, that is exactly what it has! I bought the amp to modify into a guitar amp although it has already had some mods to this end. I wish that I could get a schematic that actually corresponds to what I have, although given time I can get it done.
Does Anybody Have An Idea as to why I have a Sam's PhotoFact schematic that plainly states it is for the CHA75a when the amp in my possession plainly says, right on the front panel the same thing, yet there is such a BIG difference in the circuit.? The tubes on the schematic are as follows: V-1, 12AX7, V-2, 6AU6, V-3, 6U8, V-4,5,6,&7, 6AV5GA, V-8, 6CM7, V-9,10,&11, 5Y3GT.....Now, the amp I actually have has the following, and please pardon the lack of proper numbering of tubes here: 2 X 12AX7, 1 X 6AV6, 1 X 7247, 2 X 7027a, & 3 X GZ34. I realize that this is all probably moot to those here who have much more know how than I do, but I am really curious as to what the deal is, even more than I would like to have the correct diagram! Once again, apologies for the posting improprieties....I Will learn.

I have a stock First Watt F4 amp that I may want to use for driving my forthcoming ~ 94db speakers. Presumably by now, there have been quite a few basic mods done on this amp.

But what are those which most listeners found made the biggest improvements to the F4's clean but tube like sound quality?

My other goal is choosing a line stage for maximizing the chance for the F4 to sound like the best 300B amps. http://www.airtight-anm.com/components/atm300.html

In the F4 manual, Nelson Pass said that he had no problem powering his 94db speakers in his 11K cu ft room with 5 volts driving the F4. As my room is only 2300 cu ft what tube amp line stage will help me achieve the best 300B-like sound from the F4?

OR, should I forget the whole thing and pursue a V-FET amp??

Hi to all;

I'm student from the Philippines, I'm taking up two courses BSCS(Bachelor of science in computer science 3rd yr.) and ECE 2yr student,as of now I just experienced how to make a project using microcontroller, creating firmware and ide software, interfacing nokiaLCD and others,

I want to exercise my knowledge to the next level, since we're on simbreak, I want to Build DIY amplifier, I have alot of reading about BPA200 using LM3886, but I have no luck in searching the complete detailed Diagram.

can anybody here give/send to me the copy of complete schematic of bpa200 using lm3886. thanks

any comment(s) is really appreciated

here my email: cresswood2@gmail.com

Hey Guys,
I need your advice&instructions.A friend of mine can get me 5N silver foil which I think best suits for interconnects and power cables .It can be either 1.5m"m*0.05m"m or 2.5m"m*0.3m"m which size is better suited for IC or power cables or by any chance for speaker cables ? Could anyone instruct me how to coat&shield these 5N silver foil to perfection if I want to build few pairs of 1.25-1.5m for XLR digital and analog interconnects&power cables as well as speaker cables if possible with either of the above sizes ?
The 5N silver foil is quite expensive,but I've read that once it's built properly-you forget the issue of cables once for all !
I'd be grateful to get any pertinent assistance.

Hello, I am troubleshooting an amp and came across a positive pre-driver that is leaking. It is a Crown D150a and the part number listed in the service manual is NSD106. I am not seeing or finding this anywhere, or an equivalent listed either. Does anyone know what my options are, or maybe I am not looking in the right place. Digikey and Mouser have no results, even as a last resort checked eBay, nothing.

This did not give me anything close:
Bipolar Transistor Cross-reference Search | Equivalent Transistors (alltransistors.com)

Any help would be super! Thank you!

Hi!

I currently have 6L6WGC tubes in this amplifier.
Would like to replace them with other tubes.
Can you recommend me for which ones?
What tubes can I use in this amplifier?

Looking for a pair or quad of Yamaha 2SK75.

Thank you.

Hello guys! Tell me about the power amplifier, what function does the C308 capacitor perform? How exactly will the sound change (addition /decrease of treble / bass) with denominations, for example, 47 pF, 100 pF, 220 pF ?

Hey @maxolini ?

I dont trust that skar driver to not sound like a bucket of 💩(it over stimulates the higher resonance funk in the paraflex stuff IMhO) , but it don’t look too shabby in Brians TH? (I dropped a bit of stuffing in the initial path length to relax the lossless sim and used measured TS parameters)

https://www.skaraudio.com/products/ddx-12-inch-car-subwoofer




http://www.diysubwoofers.org/projects/other/POC3/

While I've long used Class AB amps, I have a stock First Watt F4 amp that I may want to use for driving my forthcoming ~ 94db speakers. But aside from the F4 needing a line stage of ~ 5 volts to drive it, I wondered if there are current commercially available and/or DIY V-FET amps which may sound better-and also perhaps more like the best 300B or GM70 tube amps.

I've read how many DIYers lament the discontinuation of Yamaha and/or Sony V-FET semiconductors. But if those currently produced V-FETs do, in fact, sound as good as the SemiSouth or other esteemed unobtainium of days passed, which are among the best DIY AND commercial amps that use them?

Sometime last year I became totally enamored by the Synergy Horn concept after several "a-ha" moments about how Tom Danley's other inventions work (Paraline, and Tapped Horn.) My S.O. (the bestest wife in the whole wide world) gave me permission to build a set of three for the LCR of our home theater. After many...many prototypes, rebuilds, back-tracks and a few choice words they are mostly done. I have Tom's permission to post details of my design, as it's his idea and he has it very well covered by patents.

First...for those that haven't heard a well designed DIY Synergy Horn, or the real deal. Find some. Now. They really are that special. I have a degree in Electrical Engineering and have designed audio equipment professionally on/off for over 20 years. They image better than any other speaker, and there is a precision and clarity that some of the crazy high end magnesium/beryllium/unobtanium based speakers can't match.

So, without further ado here are the basics for each speaker:

4 Dayton Classic 8" woofers, 295-310
4 Dayton Designer Series 3" woofers, 295-422
1 PRV Audio D290Py-B, 294-2833

22.5" Cube
60x60 Coverage Area
45Hz to 18kHz +/-3dB (ish)...more on that later.

I'll be posting the photo's I took during the build and my drawings...but it's going to take some time to put together all the info...so patience is appreciated. Questions are welcome at any time.

Scott

I built a closed enclosure with a 10-inch woofer. The enclosure volume is approximately 47 liters. External dimensions are 600 x 290 x 360 mm. The T/S parameters for the driver are as follows:
Fs = 16 Hz
Qts = 0.208
Qes = 0.217
Qms = 0.517
Vas = 8.1 cu.ft
Sd = 51.1 cu.in
Xmax = 0.23 in
Re = 3.6 Ohms

I ordered XPS foam and installed it in the enclosure. I expected the bass response to be boosted because the enclosure volume was reduced, and that the system's Q would be increased, resulting in a rise in bass response, with some trade-offs with deep bass.

However, the outcome has not been as predicted. The bass seemed to be softer. I kept adding foam to the enclosure, and it verified the result. So I took all of the foam out of the enclosure. Then, the bass was louder.

Why didn't my modification follow the theory?

I'm trying to measure the secondary voltage output of a reclaimed transformer. There are 5 wires: 2 red. 2 yellow, 1, black.
Black + either Red gives me 11.4
Black + either Yellow gives me 0.
What am I doing wrong?

I inherited this unit, which I thought was just a rebadge ADC ss 310, but the interior has a different arrangment, sort of upside down. Intermittantly makes a low rumble in one channel, not even sure its the eq, as it sits on top of Waynes preamp, which has picked up noise previously (pc psu noise through DAC I think, as rerouting usb to front port mitigated it), speakers are reasonably efficient ( Tekton Lore BE). So i need to figure that out, I'm not a tech though, more of a paint by numbers amatuer. Also would like to swap the red LED's for Blue on the sliders, but I think they may draw too much power. I know EQ's are a polarizing subject, but for me with this system and room, it is so much quicker and easier to adjust some of the low end than a digital solution, which I could use -but not as efficiently. Any thoughts?

Hi,

I'm selling a fully populated and working Whammy PCB.

• Panasonic FC, FR and Nichicon Muses.
• Transistors FQP3N30 and FQP3P20.
• AOP TL072 on DIP8 socket.
• ALPS potentiometer
• 1% Vishay metal resistor
• Panasonic and Wima MKP caps
• 25VA toroidal transformer

Price is 150€ + shipping from France

Regards

Damien

I have just begun my journey on learning about electronics, so please pardon me if this questions sounds ridiculous.

To my understanding, AC signals require two leads, one hot and one cold. So that when the sine wave drops below positive, the cold end instead transmits the negative signal. Now, audio signals to my understanding is also an AC signal, but inside IEM and ear buds cables, there aren't two leads per channel, instead, the usual configuration is TRS, in which tip carries right, ring left, and sleeve a common ground.

This leaves me with the question, how come one cable is able to carry an AC signal?

Thank you for reading my question.

I have one Lafayette labeled box 6JS6C, big 30+W sweep tube. Its new. Its a Japanese "Green Line" which are supposed to be special. My dad fixed TV's and always bought an extra for each repair. This is one of those. Surplus sales of Nebraska has these for about $44+. I asking $26 plus shipping cost. Or make an offer. SOLD

I have a stock First Watt F4 amp that I may want to use for driving my forthcoming ~ 94db speakers. Presumably by now, there have been quite a few basic mods done on this amp. But what are those which most listeners found made the biggest improvements?

Greetings

I'm in need for a Yamaha M-4 Power Amplifier for parts working or not i recently bought one on eBay and it was damaged in shipping.

Thanks everyone for your time and consideration.

John

I've been thinking of selling my FET 10/PC phono stage, and given it's almost 40 years old, thought that replacing the electrolytic caps would help the re-sale value. When I started looking closely at it, to get the values, I noticed something extremely odd.... There are two pairs of 220uf caps, which are wired in parallel, but strangely, their polarities are reversed to each other. So the negative terminal of one, is connected to the positive terminal of the other. You can see in this photo, the arrow pointing to the negative terminal on the left cap, the right one has it's arrow on the opposite side. I have no idea why you would do that?

I am building the ESP high power amp (project 101) which requires fairly substantial heatsinks so I will need a pretty large aluminum case. What would be the best source for those? I see tons of cases on Ebay from China but besides few photos, I have no idea if they are worth it or not. I know that large aluminum case with big heatsinks is not going to be cheap so at least I would like to make sure the quality is good. Last case I purchased on Ebay from China for my preamp was just OK. I still had to enlarge few holes so everything fits properly and use lot of thread locker so parts stay together.

Whats the best cabinet for these drivers? I have not been here for awhile and I have a pair looking for a new home. Just wondering if any new designs have come up. Anyone have a preference? I know this is subjective but I am looking for ideas..
Thanks

Selling a JL Audio XD600/6v2 that is in mint condition. Comes with original packaging, Allen wrench with baggy and the manual. Selling for $700 or best offer.

Message me if you need more details!

Thanks

I have a Jamo S810 sub which only has a mono line level input and a stereo amplifier that outputs 100W RMS at 8ohms per channel without a sub out. It has a line out but that is not volume controlled. I looked into off the shelf LOCs, but they are at most rated at 40W per channel and then I still would need to down mix to mono. Plus most of the LOCs use isolation transformers, which from my research don't function well at low frequencies (at least not ones that are less than $60).

So I started looking up schematics of subs with speaker level inputs to see how pros do it. And low and behold they use simple voltage deviders mostly followed by a summing amplifier. I even looked at an amplifier (Yamaha R-N602) with sub output and it too just takes speaker level outputs, attenutes them and sums them up using summing amplifier.

However I was able to find examples of subs (Polk PSW10 and PSW202) that don't even use an op amp before combining the signal with line input (attached). So I "isolated" what seemed the inportant parts of the circuit an pared it down to the second attached image. I threw it all together, using 4 27 ohm 1/4W resistors in series instead of the 100 ohm 1W as I did not have those available. And it seems to work. I say seems because I have no way to measure distorsion or any possible negative effects to the sound quality. All I can tell is that the sub produces sound, there is no hum and the amp has not blown up nor is complayining.

I wanted to post it here to get a second opnion on why this might or might not be a good idea, or if I missed something inportant from the original circuit. What is the function of the 100 and 2K2 resistors? Why would they possibly use 220K and 10k for the summing/voltage devider? What is the C1 221 (which I omitted) in the original schematic for?

Then perhaps this could be helpful as a resource for anybody that might be searching for a thing like this in the future.

Note: Despite throwing around terms like "summing amplifier", "simple voltage devider", "isolation transformer", I am not going to pretend I have more than a rudimentary understanding of electronic circuicts. I've learned most of those from my research about this. So wait until others with more experience weigh in.

Anyway, any pointers and constructive criticism are much appreciated.

I've no idea why the shape of a cabinet would affect bass response. Volume is the only significant factor, right?
I ask this question because I've spent a lot of time trying fashion a subwoofer to fit under a bed. I think I'm currently embarking of MK VI.
Cabinet making is not my forte. So it's easier for to use a floor-standing tower cabinet as a base (25 litres). But on reflection I've never met a skinny floor-stander with an impressive bass response.
Has the shape got anything to do with it?

Attached a pic of some calculations which combination is best

Hello,

I am using a 10W TPA3138D2 amplifier for my projects, and I would like to be able to use it with headphones as well. However, the output signal for the headphones is too powerful and I would like to find a way to switch the output between the speaker and headphones with two different power levels.

Currently, my system is wired so that when the headphone jack is inserted, the speaker is disconnected.
View attachment 1258355
The signal starts from A+ (amplifier output) and goes to SP+ (speaker cable).

How could I modify the circuit so that I can change the gain and disconnect the speaker when the headphone jack is inserted?

The circuit includes a classic preamplifier based on TL072 that can be modified. Any ideas or suggestions are very welcome, perhaps there is a type of jack input with a different pin configuration, or one that has an isolated switch in parallel, or...

Hello everyone.
I'm simply curious. I have a Technics RS TR373 deck that hasn't been used for a few years because some gears have broken.
I bought them on eBay from someone who makes them in Poland. (there are really few who make replacements).
They are nominated as RXL0106; REM0043 and RDG0206.
My question is, does anyone know why Technics/Panasonic made them from a totally different material than the rest of the gears on the deck and why they crack and break over time?
That detail catches my attention. Could it be to reduce noise?
Another reason?.
The ones I bought are made of polyurethane resin, I think they are stronger than the originals, but harder.
Greetings.

Hello,

I'm a complete noob as far as building speakers; I have built 2 pairs, but just copied existing designs.
Now, I would like to adapt this design - https://www.visaton.de/en/products/fullrange-systems/stella-light - and use the Visaton WS17E/8 (as I already have 2 of these) instead of the W170S.
This is the original driver - https://www.visaton.de/de/produkte/chassis/tieftoener/w-170-s-8-ohm
And this one is mine, the one I'd like to use instead - https://www.visaton.de/de/produkte/chassis/tieftoener/ws-17-e-8-ohm

I found on the Visaton forum that somebody tried this, but with the 4ohm version and the specs are quite different - https://forum.visaton.de/forum/gale...kleine-standbox-mit-ws17e-und-frs8m-stella-ul

Visaton offers a design software, just that it only has a Windows version and I can't use it. If anyone can recommend me a total closed volume for the driver (as I understand, a closed box would be a good bet for this driver) and the updates needed to the original or the adaptation crossover, I think I can manage from there.

Thank you!

Hi all.

In need of some help here.

I've recently inherited my late brother's old Hi-fi, which needs attention, but one step at a time.

First the problem is with the speakers. I've been trying to find info on Musical Fidelity MC4 Drive unit specs.

These were made in 1987 (Stamp inside the enclosure). He then had a Musical Fidelity A100 which didn't have any output protection and subsequently blew one channel and took one of the bass drivers along with it. He had it repaired but it was different from the other speaker. Not much different, but one of them used a black diaphragm/spider and the other is yellow.
I'm not too sure which was damaged as this was a long time ago. I'm presuming the newer one is the Black one.

Anyway, he hadn't been using his setup for some years, and with the smokey environment, the nicotine had attacked the rubber surround, and the cone on one of the drivers, and had started to crumble.

I cannot find any info on these. I have tried reaching out to Martin Collums of Hi-fi Critic, but nobody responded.
I have tried Musical Fidelity, someone did contact me, but they were at a loss, as Musical Fidelity had been taken over by someone else since then.
I've tried Wilmslow Audio, but they would only repair the surround and couldn't provide me with any details as to what these drivers were and what I could use as an alternative.

Does anyone have any info on the drivers or as to what I could use?
I'll be wanting to replace the Tweeters at some point too and upgrade the crossover components.

Google hasn't been much help at all.

I would like to get these big babies to sing again.

Many thanks and all the best!

Tony

Hello,

please help me to find some good compromises.

The driver data:

T: http://www.scan-speak.dk/product/d2905-970000/

M (FR): http://www.tb-speaker.com/products/w4-2142

W: http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/JBL_L100.htm



Question #1:

I would like to know if you prefer traditional cabinet similar to this from Troels Gravesen: http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/JBL_L100_08.htm or this Modular.1 from Bentezh : https://www.bentezh.com/



Question #2:

The W4-2142 is a full range, the 123A plays much higher than usual 12” and the D2905/970000 can be crossed < 2k therefore the big question is where to put the crossover points and how steep ? Is the W4-2142 too small for the 123A ?



Question #3:

If I cross the tweeter low, I would add a waveguide WG-148R from Visaton and mount it close to the W4-2142, but what if I cross the tweeter high ? Should I mount the tweeter firing to the top, creating ambience with ceiling reflections or should I mount it the traditional way ?

Thanks for helping me.

Greetings

I'm trying to restore a Yamaha M-4 Power Amp bought one on eBay what a nightmare I am in need of some Transistors if anyone can spare any they are as follows.

# 1 2SA941-BL & 2SC2280-BL Pre-drivers
# 2 2SA914 Driver
# 3 2SC1624 & 2SA814

Thank you everyone for your time.

John

I just replaced the front panel board on my 1st generation SHD, the OLED display pixel fade had gotten really bad. miniDSP sold me a replacement module out of warranty.

Here are some pics of the actual OLED part in case anyone wants to hunt for a second source.

My friend has seas U18RNX/p, he need help for anyone sharing .frd .zma

He had seen some kit like Idunn, dhrotna, myna DXT

However he want to reassure which xo is the best in 15 liter cabinet

Thank you

hello from France, I recently got an ml 27.5 and need advice for its overhaul, there is a slight hiss in the speakers and a bit more to the left. I replaced the 9 Rifa, the 6 chemical condos on the 2 rear panel cards. and the 2 small Spragues accessible on the power cards. The breath is always present. there are still the 2 other small Spragues which are very difficult to access to replace. what do you think of what I can do?

George, do you have any boards left? I'm specifically interested in a SPP or two and maybe a SSE.

Cheers, and Happy New Year.

Somebody who coincidentally knows what potentiometer is used for a Bryston BP25?


724t 10KDX2 doesn't give much results using Google.

I bought a buffer kit based on Muscial Fidelity's X10 design.
I used a pair of 6N1ps (all I had) but otherwise built it as drawn below.

There was no onboard power supply but the seller recommended +-28v so I used a 24-0-0-24 transformer to give a raw +-50v (the Vigotronix pcb transformer has only 25% regulation) This seems a strange way to power a tube circuit to me and it could be redrawn and reconnected as a +80v supply.

Th heaters initially were powered from a 12v switch mode psu. They are wired in series and are floating so I tied one side to 0v with a 1k resistor. (switching noise was evident so will replace it with a LM338 based regulator.)

U1a's anode current was a lowly 0.13ma and the other triiode's was 1.5ma.

It measured well using REW - well below 0.1% at ~1v RMS into 4k7 and the gain was slightly greater than unity (by10%) Square waves at 1 & 10kHz were clean.

Comments are welcome, especially in respect of tubes and anode currents.

The Chinese seller's claims were, as always, exaggerated, although the 6N1p might not be a good choice.

Hi gang... this should be easy, but got stuck. How do I test my horns at 1M when my horns are 36 in" long?
That puts mic at 3.37" from mouth. Seems weird. Even 4' seems awfully close.
Zene

I've been lurking here for some time but never really participated in actually building something - hence the lurk. Now though... approaching retirement (although do you ever retire when you run your own business?) I've decided to create a dedicated workshop space where I can fiddle with speakers and electronic gear. This is something that I did way back as a teenager when my insane parents let a 12 year old muck around with s/h valve radios - one of the first things I learnt was that 1,000 DC hurts rather more than 240v AC. I made it to 13 and built loads of stuff - largely picked up from an old British mag called 'Everyday Electronics'. I guess if you remember that then you're probably, like me, a boomer.

First off I've got a load of gear to renovate/repair: Rogers Cadet III amp, Leak Stereo 20 amp, a something Marantz, then a pair of Leak 15 ohm Sandwiches, Wharfedale Laser 80s, Celestion Ditton 25 and 15s, TDL RTL2s and 2 KEF B139 and T15s... thinking of a transmission line - something that has always fascinated me 🙂 Then I'm wanting to try some of @Scottmoose designs and a Frugelhorn. That ought to keep me going until the hand-eye coordination buggers off south!

The RTL2s are first for treatment I think.. I gather @mikesnowdon did much on these it he's still around - he made some very useful posts.

Anybody who has the schematics of a Bryston MPS 1 power supply?

Only thing I could find:

https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/help-convert-bryston-bp-20-ps-from-230v-to-115v.134595/

Hi!
Would it be possible to remove the DC servo and replace it with capacitor?

What size is adequate?

Thanks in advance!

So the LRS plus is finally back in stock and i ordered a pair for our weekend getaway place where placement away from the walls won't interfere with everyday life (not an option in our main home) From what i can tell from posted 3rd party measurements and shared experiences, these roll off pretty quick below 100hz and have no real midbass impact to speak of......that simply won't cut it for me when i wanna listen to Bill Ward or Bonham.

So the whole SLOB thing has me intrigued......and i'm wondering if a 15" downfiring woofer under the panel built into a stand like thingy would work?.....what to do with the rear wave?......box on all four sides and open back only? (woofer is qts .77 and FS 31hz with 550w available and active DSP)

Some other folks have used Vandersteen subs to much success which use three 8" woofers in a sealed box.....front and two side firing......maybe that's a better approach for midbass?

And then there's always a true cardioid approach.....say two 10" woofer/subs per side lined up front to back and active DSP?

Thoughts?

I put the ground into the power in on the amp first, then when I put in the power, I heard a shock. The fuse was blown at the positive battery terminal.

Do you think my amp is okay? I can’t test it yet until I get a new fuse for the fuse holder at the car’s battery.

I’d like to know so I can order a new amp ASAP if needed

Best Wishes for 2023!

Click to expand...

I've made a phono preamp based on Le Pacific, for MM duty.
Sounds great for such a simple thing.
But, I noticed it doesn't handle well very high voltage output cartridges, such my Shure M44-7.
It gets a bit overloaded and soundwave is clipped, especially the bottom part.

Here is the schematic by the way:



Would it be helpful to increase power voltage to 24 VDC?

Thanks!

* SOLD OUT *

The KIT includes all of the necessary parts to build a Raspberry Pi Player / Streamer with built-in linear power supply. You will need some basic soldering skills and it takes at least 2 hours to assemble the parts. Overseas customers need to pay an extra 7% for PayPal service charge. Shipping cost will be incurred depending on destinations.

The new model STEALTH V2 includes Analag Devices ADUM3160 as the USB Galvanic Isolation, which eliminates the noise introduced by the touchscreen。STEALTH V2 can also works as a Roon endpoint，For details please refer to the Youtube demo。

Usage of the KIT
-Digital transport / streamer / music server, supports Spotify, Tidal and Qobuz
-Media server with an internally mounted 2.5" SSD (not included)
-Digital to Analogue Converter with I2S DAC HAT
-CD player / ripper with an external USB CD drive
-Supports audiophile OS including Volumio, DietPi & Debian

Case：
-Aluminum alloy fabricated with mixed CNC and LASER cut
-All black anodized matte finishing
-7.9" HDMI 400x1280 touch screen
-Opening at the bottom, can change OS with ease
-Dimensions: 240(W) x 220(D) x 100(H)
-Support standard D-type sockets
-RCA jacks included
-Native support for Allo Boss 2 DAC HAT

Power:
-40VA audio grade R-type transformer, 5A output
-Built-in high precision, low dropout, large current LPS
-TL431 as a voltage reference
-9x Nichicon FW Series capacitors
-Ultra low ESR，CLC filtering topology，WIMA MKP10 for final decoupling

********************************************
Note:
Supports Raspberry Pi 4B ONLY
Touch screen is included
No Raspberry Pi or DAC included
********************************************

YouTube LMS demo:

Login to view embedded media

YouTube Roon demo:

Login to view embedded media

YouTube look and feel demo:

Login to view embedded media


BOM:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1p7pWZuDVllVu8JwMyac3QKlgY866xHJO/view?usp=sharing



Tutorial:

https://smp-gadgets.blogspot.com/2022/11/installing-dietpi-on-raspberry-pi-wip.html


* Ship out on every Mon, Wed, Fri and Sat (morning) *

Hello everyone,

I have James Audio transformers for SET amps. They will look and sound great on any DIY project. I bought them in 2014 to build 300b amp but I never had a time to finish the amp. They are in absolute top condition, didn't even peel the clear stickers from the logos. That being said, I am only interested selling them as a set, not individually. I rather have someone local to LA/SOCAL area to buy them because their total weight is around 40 lbs and I don't want to deal securely shipping them. I am looking for $1000 for all of them.

There is currently one person considering buying them but please free to drop comment if you are interested. I will be in touch!

Here is the Picture of them:







Here is the list:

Power Transformer
JS-9612-2: It is huge and super heavy.



Output Transformer
JS-6123HS

Current: 90mA, 20W
Primary impedance: 2.5K / 3.5K / 5K
Secondary impedance: 4-8-16 Ohm
Frequency Response: 15Hz ~ 68KHz - 3dB
Material: Orientcore HiB
Dimensions: 90 x 80 x 110 mm
Weight: 3.2 Kg (7.0 lbs)

Choke
JS-10-200S: 10H 200mA

Anything wired is not included in the sale.

Hello, I'm new to the Forum so if I'm asking a question that is already been covered, please excuse me.
So, I've been trying to connect my Yamaha receivers sub out to my ao7 Pro to power my subwoofer so that I can take advantage of the Yamahas crossover, and I cannot get it to work. Does anyone know if the ao7 pro is capable of receiving the sub out signal from the Yamaha through its RCA input?

The first of the "premium cable" manufacturer, remaining anonymous because them liken to suing everyone in sight...started about 1979, just about the same time as IQ rates started falling. Now, the powers that be insisted the IQ testing was fatally flawed, but that did not affect the results even using the "updated" versions of IQ testing. So, we went from simple speaker wiring to interconnects, thru "magic boxes" up & thru "magic pebbles" & all their wild claims. Very early on, straightforward double-blind tests ensued, discovering, "You can't hear an expensive speaker from a cheap one, you can't hear an expensive "super-speaker cable" from a cheap stretch of zip-cord, you can't hear the difference from a cheap $30 DAC from a $3500 DAC..."
From every corner we hear attempts to discredit double-blind tests, just like those trying to discredit the IQ testing ...& no, even concert violinists don't covet Stradivarius violins because they can't hear any differences. Even a collection of so-called wine-connoisseurs can't even decipher a red wine from a white wine. Double-blind testing strips away all pretensions large & small.


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Rick...

Does anyone know an online source for metal mesh sheets that can be used for speaker grilles? I’m looking for something with large pores, like the attached pic. So far, I’ve only found small pieces, or wholesalers with minimum $1,000 orders, and I only need a few square feet of it.

Has anyone used that loose cellulose insulation that they blow into the attic for stuffing speakers? Does it work well? Should one put it in a mesh bag or something to keep it from getting in the driver innards?

Hi all! Recently took the plunge down the DIY rabbit hole, putting the fun and passion back in my music listening! I recently purchased a tube amp kit, vendor shall remain anonymous for the moment, and am not able to get output. This particular kit has multiple test points on the PCB and there are a few that do not measure correctly. What is curious to me is with all these test points the kit vendor is unable to assist me other than to say it is either a bad solder joint or misplaced part. Wouldn't the point of having multiple test points to be to help isolate the problem?

While following the very interesting debate about passive OB LF boost, I discovered this article on @perrymarshall 's website: https://audioxpress.com/article/the-dsp-assisted-reflex-system

Basically, it is about a nice EQ trick that allows some LF boost and "subsonic" filter for bass reflex boxes - allowing various design choices. I am especially interested in making an undersized BR box, since that is the only other option besides a sealed box for my smaller listening room.

I tried to make some simulations in Hornresp and using this kind of EQ seems to do what I need for the SPL levels I need. I especially like the excursion control without using a real high order subbas filter.

The article mentions using a shelf filter in MiniDSP (I actually happen to have one), but AFAIK, there is no shelving filter in Hornresp. So I used two peaking filters, one to boost and one to cut plus a first order highpass to approximate the high Q shelf filter. Is that equivalent, or is the shelf filter better in some regard?

I would like to first see in Hornresp what is possible before I start cutting wood, the final filter would be of course based on measurements. Am I on the right track?

The intention is to build a relatively small two way system with a large 400 Hz cutoff horn, the XO will be somewhere around 600 - 900 Hz, which would be good for 12" or maybe even 15" woofer, but there is not much space available for a large box.

Hi all! Just a silly little thing really - I've just put together an IcePower 125asx2 class D amp kit from EU company Sound Imports, it all went well, despite my limited experience and zero instructions! Just one thing, the power LED (GP150 Power-Button-Kit from Ghent it seems) is way too bright - could I tweak something to lower this brightness do you think? I can see the AUX out socket it is connected to says it is typical 24v according to the IcePower data sheet. Or maybe a better switch that could fit might have adjustable brightness or colours etc? I can of course just disconnect it, but was hoping there might be maybe something I could do electronically - I wouldn't have a clue but you proper DIY folk probably will! 😊

Ok, Ill start.

Hi fanatics,

It was 2017 when I posted “Beyond the Epos es22…” and I still haven’t chosen my Troels G. speaker kit! It would be very good to get some fresh advice on my 2021 WAF* approved shortlist of 3 (*N.B. I have permission to build one kit only).

I listen to all genres except organ music and have no plan for subs. Insight into musical interplay/intent/nuance is much more important to me than HT, but obviously, reasonable quality bass is a prerequisite.

Room: 25m2 – two doorways, always open, one at the far end from the speakers and a wider one between them. Speaker placement in free space, up to 150cm from side walls and up to 85cm from front face of speakers to the wall behind them.

Origin Live Resolution Mk2/Encounter Mk3/ Dynavector 10x5
CDX/Pardoe XPS
Modded NAC72/ Avondale S101 80/90 watts, with NCC220 modules coming soon.
es22 speakers - reluctant attenuation of volume for some vocals, with CDX.

DTQWT single “l2” (level 2) 2,400 euro
Used by TG for 2 years in his 25m2 living space.
Owners report listening position relatively uncritical.
TG’ s suggestion of up to 40cm from rear of speaker to wall easily achieved.
Offers scale and quality lower frequencies.
High efficiency brings rewards, even with solid state?
Will it sound as transparent as best of the rest?
Money spent on high efficiency design components for DTQWT wasted, because less expensive/efficient designs, eg Ekta, can offer similar virtues, given 90 watts of good quality A/B SS?

Ekta Mk11 (Level 2) approx 1,600 ero
TG comments on wide and deep soundstage, comparable with ATS4, even at lower levels (an important aspect re my CDX player)
He claims 38hz @F3 … might this be good enough for most listening?
How much space needed between speaker and wall?
TG also claims that size matters, expense of ‘Illuminator’ units given limits of 7” woofer?

Faital 3W (Be level 2) 1,450 euros
Appears very good vfm, even with Beryllium tweeter
Size of woofer
Can rock
Drive units made in my country of residence!
Risk of overloading room with 10” woofer in bass reflex designs?
How much space required between speaker and wall? How critical is the listening position?
Mid range/sound stage able to compete with Ekta and DTQWT?
At limits of WAF - needs exquisite veneer job/and beautiful, black stands!

(Also considered 761 and the somewhat ungainly, but relatively inexpensive 861. Troels enthuses about good measurements, with this design… but zero feedback from any owners. I’m puzzled by the lightweight nature of these constructions, compared to e.g. the massively braced Ekta, Do these 2.5 Ways offer ‘balance’, or a Jack of all trades compromise to the mid range?)

If I use AC power cables for main connection like this about
NBS OMEGA CABLE PRICING
I must use also absolutely high quality main power switches.
But this one are hard to find.
Here a little overview:

A. Rotary Switches

1) Saia-Burgess
Saia-Burgess P5-1N-209
Saia-Burgess | Relais, Schalter und Anzeigen | Schalter | Drehschalter | Frontplattenmontage, für 230 V AC |P5-1N-209
Saia-Burgess TH508025000
Saia-Burgess | Relays, Switches and Indicators | Switches | Rotary Switches | Panel Mounting, Signal |TH508025000
2) Lorlin
Lorlin RMS1016
http://www.lorlin.co.uk/pdf/RMS.pdf
Lorlin | Relays, Switches and Indicators | Switches | Rotary Switches | Panel Mounting 230Vac Rated |RMS1016
3) Shallco
Shallco - Detented Power Switches 15 Amp
Shallco - Series 16 Rotary Switch 15 amp Single-Hole Mount
http://www.shallco.com/images/4holgrpb.jpg
http://www.shallco.com/images/16b.jpg
Shallco - Series 16 Rotary Switch 15 amp Single-Hole Mount
But I don't a delivery source
4) Various
Miscellaneous Rotary Switches


B. Pushbutton Power Switch

1) Panasonic ESB92S/D
Electromechanical Components - Power Switches
http://rocky.digikey.com/weblib/Panasonic/Web Photos/New Photos/ESB-92S21B.jpg
http://rocky.digikey.com/weblib/Panasonic/Web Photos/New Photos/ESB-92D21B.jpg
2) E Switch P227
power pushbutton switch | push button UL listed | multiple options | www.e-switch.com
http://rocky.digikey.com/weblib/E-Switch/Web Photos/P197SBEE.jpg
3) Toneluck (often to find in some harman models)
http://www.toneluck.com/pdf/pwl-2p.pdf
http://www.toneluck.com/pdf/pwl.pdf
4) Legion
Push Button switches | Lectronic ElectronicC Co., Ltd.
5) Apem IT 40 Series
Pushbutton Switches
http://www.apem.de/files/apem/brochures/DEU/Netzschalter_IT-DEU.pdf
6) ITT-Canon (C&K) NE18 ("NE 18")
C&K NE-18 Series Mains / Power Switches
NE-18, Pushbutton By C&K Components
7) Various (OEM)
Switchs mail order for Televisions etc, also tack switchs for computers etc.
http://www.pltv.org.uk/pictures/sw629.jpg

Of most models I don't know what is here to prefer and to avoid.

Thank you very much for your comments.

The decisive factor here will be the quality of contact material that need to process the voltage flash of inrush currents - especially by large main transformers - so I think.

By any chance would anyone have a PDF copy of this service manual? Can't find it anywhere.

Randomly tripped over this last night, and haven't seen much talk of it anywhere.

https://jblpro.com/en-US/discontinued_products

The D202 is backordered at Parts Express at the moment, but they are supposed to be getting more in. I asked if they had any other info about expected future availability, but they said they have no information on inventory levels at JBL or how long those might last for either driver.

The other half of the Akai conversion I'm doing(now that I have the Ef86 pre mostly sorted(thanks) is based on a 12ax7
It also uses a shure M67 input transformer.

The problem I'm seeing is that it will overdrive itself before it overdrives the inputs of my UAD apollo 11
So whilst I can record a clean signal, it is not very loud. For a regular not too loud vocal this happens between 4-5 on VR1 At this point I am only halfway to distorting on my Apollo 11 unit. It would be nice if I could get a louder clean signal at the Apollo 11 unit, so I can meter there and not the U meter on the pre
If I turn up the pre louder it just starts distortion and I get a distorted flattened signal reminiscent of Skeletor

Coincidentally or not, this distortion happens when the VU meter of the preamp bounces into the red. However this VU meter is actually powered by the output transformer and power amp.

Originally the schematic had a connection at the preamp output which grounded the input of the power amp when a patch chord was plugged into the preamp out., however this also turns off the VU meter which frankly is no fun!, also i jumpered this on mine and it made no difference ot the distortion issue, except to turn off the fun VU meter.

Any ideas what's overdriving here? Is this another output impedance mismatch ?

v1 plate is 93V
cathode is .923

v2 plate is 126
cathode is 1.19

I’m attempting to reverse engineer T/S parameters of the woofer of loudspeakers; Braun LS200. I know for accuracy and precision, it should be done by measurement. Nevertheless, I did the calculation because I’m just curious whether the formulas on the textbook would work.

Well, here are all of the parameters I found in the spec sheet and speaker reviews.

Woofer diameter = 10”
Cabinet type = sealed
Cabinet volume = 47 litres (per single woofer)
Cabinet resonance = 36 Hz
Cut-off frequency = 28 Hz

The target is to find Fs, Qts, and Vas of the driver.

Step 1: Starting by finding Qtc from the relationship of F3/Fc = 28/36 = 0.78 or approximately 0.80, then looking at the table 1.12 in Dickason’s cookbook we obtain Qtc = 1.0.

Step 2: Assume the possible Qts are 0.3, 0.4, and 0.5. Looking at table 1.8, we obtain alphas of 10.11, 5.25, and 3, respectively.

Step 3: Verify usable Qts by the formula; Qts = Qtc/(sqrt(alpha + 1)), then, the usable Qts are only 0.3 and 0.5.

Step 4: From the relationship; Fc/Fs = Qtc/Qts, or Fs = Fc x (Qts/Qtc). We obtain Fs = 10.8 and 18 Hz. But, only 18 Hz should be valid because 10.8 Hz is too strangely low, IMHO.

Step 5: Therefore, the valid Qts should only be 0.5. And alpha should also only be 3.

Step 6: Vas is founded by Vas = alpha x cabinet volume, thus, Vas = 3 x 47 = 141 liters or about 5 cu.ft.

In conclusion, the results are as follows:

Given parameters:
F3 = 28 Hz
Fc = 36 Hz
Qtc = 1.0
Alpha = 3

Driver’s parameters:
Fs = 18 Hz
Qts = 0.5
Vas = 141 litres, or 5 cu.ft.

Basically, I’ve tried verifying by myself by putting these values in online calculators. And the results were given as predicted. However, I’m still unsure if I did it correctly. Anyone please verify my calculation.

Hi,

Has anyone ever tried this device? The maker claims a lot on his website https://www.kempelektroniksshop.nl/sns-plug:

• Shunt filter, no dynamic restriction possible
• Suppresses mains pollution
• Super fast reaction speed covering an ultra-wide frequency range, up to almost 1 Gigahertz
• Lowers the line impedance
• 7 stages provide the best performance
• 3-way over voltage and surge protector
• Incorporates Creaktiv Systems chips and ci2p treatment
• Potted in gems plus minerals and a resin to prevent microphonic effects
• Can be combined with ALL other audio mains related products without any problem
• Multiple SNS PLUGS intensify the effect
• Easy ‘plug and play’ installation

Regards, Gerrit

http://www.gedlee.com/downloads/The Perception of Distortion.pdf

I'm a big fan of the Gedlee works on distortion perception. I've been preaching that low order nonlinear distortion is much preferable (less audible) to high order nonlinear distortion for a long time. This shouldn't be a surprise to most of you. Especially SET fans such as myself. 😱

What should be a surprise though- is that nonlinear distortion (THD & IMD) is most audible at low listening levels!

Gedlee's work appears to claim that speakers sound worse at higher levels not from nonlinear distortions (obviously this would have it's limits), but from diffraction! Diffraction appears to be more audible as you increase SPL!

So most of us know it's optimal to: round over our baffle edges, not use squares, offset drivers, etc. but I'm going to investigate directivity's influence on baffle diffraction. Mathematically, there should be an optimal baffle size to driver size, as larger drivers will beam frequencies sooner than smaller drivers.

This is of large importance and also a substantial advantage to fullrange drivers! Diffraction mostly effects higher frequencies. A driver which will beam higher frequencies, which would be effected by baffle diffraction, will in theory mitigate effects of diffraction. Much work has been done on constant directivity designs- but it may be the diffractions effects are most audible with acoustically small radiators with a high frequency passband. Obviously these would have wide directivity; maximally influenced by baffle diffraction. Ironically this would be all normal dome and ring tweeters.

I would also like to point out that many people have preferred smaller baffles to larger baffles. Gedlee's work not only suggests that diffraction is more audible the more it causes linear distortion (peaks and dips in frequency response)- but audibility increases with time!

A larger baffle will require a frequency to travel longer before it is radiated as baffle diffraction; therefore increasing time until radiation. This may be a large reason many have preferred smaller baffles! (Other than WAF 😛)

To be continued..

Edit: Full chart & conclusions in post #3.

For sale: 45.1584 MHz clock. The best, period. You can read about the rakings of clocks in IanCanada’s most recent thread, as may be seen in: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...fight-the-jitter.192465/page-532#post-7520451 and in post 10,630. The 45.1584 MHz version will have even lower phase noise. $350 including shipping in the US.

I have a counterpoint sa-2000 hybrid preamp/line control amp , it has 2 valves in it and I’m wondering which of these will have more of an effect on the sound ? Should I wish to tube roll

First of all, thank you for your interest!! It is mostly aimed at the European area but everything is possible.
Offering a working speaker set for building a stereo set Dynaco A25. I ordered it from Holland unfortunately no time to realize it. According to the previous owner from Holland, it is functional. Because I don't have any connection options to test, I tested it with a battery. with correct polarity reversal, i.e. on and off the membranes hit outwards, reverse polarity inwards. Will be well packaged. See also my other ads. We are a smoke-free and pet-free household. Private sale, no guarantee, no warranty, no returns, errors excepted.
The dynaco logos are also included but only in the first set and the coverings in for two sets and 2 colors. I have 2 sets of speakers.
If you are interested please let me know. Greetings Alfred

First of all, thank you for your interest!! It is mostly aimed at the European area but everything is possible.
Offering a working speaker set for building a stereo set Dynaco A25. I ordered it from Holland unfortunately no time to realize it. According to the previous owner from Holland, it is functional. Because I don't have any connection options to test, I tested it with a battery. with correct polarity reversal, i.e. on and off the membranes hit outwards, reverse polarity inwards. Will be well packaged. See also my other ads. We are a smoke-free and pet-free household. Private sale, no guarantee, no warranty, no returns, errors excepted.
The dynaco logos are also included but only in the first set and the coverings in 2 colors. I have 2 sets of speakers.

The cammillaDSP thread is now 5K messages long.

A dedicated sub-forum would allow different issues to be addressed in dedicated threads.

Im looking at this amp on the bench thats really unstable. Under no load, it passes audio, but the audio is shaking on the scope. I guess the amp is oscillating. With a small load the amp will play for 4 seconds then pop, then play again. I cleaned and tested all the pre-amp controls but that didn't help things.

I dont see these style rockfords much and really have no place to begin. Any pointers?

Whether it is with or without membrane is not important.

Burson audio sent me a pair of these opamps to try out. Here are my listening impressions. First, gear used. I used the opamps in an Aiyima A04, a fairly popular small Class D amp. My speakers are Focal 133's, custom Zalytrons from the 90's with Focal drivers; 7” double voice coil kevlar woofers and 1” titanium tweeters in a vented 15 litre box. I've used them for over 20 years as critical reference for test mixes. Mistakes are obvious, but when everything's right they are a dream. My source is a PC playing digital mp3's at 320 kbps 48 kHz. I had previously replaced the stock opamps in the aiyima with OPA1656's.

The Burson opamps come in a tidy package, snugged into a thick slab of rubber which fits in a small custom plastic hinged box. They are encased in metal and were extremely easy to slip into the amp's sockets. Once the top was off, 30 seconds for the entire operation. As soon as I put on the first track I was gobsmacked by highs. Really bright and nowhere near the bottom I was used to. But incredible soundstage. So I let them run for a week before listening critically. After 60 or so hours they had smoothed out nicely. All the bass was back. But they still had somewhat edgy highs. I listen to mostly jazz, which can run the gamut. But acoustic stuff is my favorite. What knocked me out was the great ambience. Reflections in the room were clearly more obvious. After a couple of weeks listening to the broken in chips the overall sound still strikes me as too bright for my ears. The OPA1656's just sound wonderful and non fatiguing. The Burson chips seem to have more pizazz but I get a sensation of earache almost right away. I've always been sensitive to midrange and that may be part of it. Guitars usually seem over mixed to me. If you're into electronic music they may be just the ticket.

I will buy a Salas L-adapter, it can also be a kit

Looking to see if anyone has a blank pair of Pearl 3 boards they would sell.

Thanks.

Which alternatives do i have with Fostex FE208EZ as a midbass? Horn on top and 18 inch sub.

Range ca 100 to 800 Hz with 24 inch wide baffle (or maybe up to 140-1000 Hz with narrower baffle).
I need to play LOUD so the excursion must be at a minimum. I use active dsp crossover (Audiolense).

I think it will be to weak in a open baffle!
Back loaded horn is to big and not clean enough in the lower register!
Front loaded horn is way to long!

What about a closed enclosure? Or cardioide? Or closed enclosure with passive radiator?







Joseph Crowe has an idea here? Could it be adapted to FE208EZ as a midbass in a much larger enclosure?

Hello everbody,

Unfortunately, I am not able anymore to purse some of my planed DIY projects and must part with components that I specifically acquired:

Here a set consisting of:

• Paul Hynes Z100A regulator configured for 100-200V (it works also with single-ended valve designs!), I aimed at building with it a state-of-the-art tube preamplifier
• The regulator can be enhanced with Paul Hynes constant current source CCS1A (mine is configured for 20mA but this can be reconfigured by changing a resistor)
• Finally, a fully assembled K&K time delay module for delayed B+

I would require 185 USD including PayPal and shipping.

Many thanks for looking!

Hello everyone!

(I apoligize in advance if I ask noobie quiestions, but I'm a beginer in this matter)

I have a 1920s vintage speaker that is in a pristine condition! I intent to use this speaker with a small powered guitar amp that I've built. The guitar amp is called "ruby" wich is a 9v powered 1watt amp and it works well with 4ohm and 8 ohm speakers.

This vintage speaker is 1000 ohms and obviously doesn't work out porpperly with the guitar amp because of the impedance. So, I started to do some research and I found out that you would have to use a "step down" or "step up" impedance transformer. Now, here is when I hit the wall because its an unknown territory for me (yet)

I found out a website that allows you to calculate the type of transformer that you would have to use, but it seems that the results are not "realistic" but still, maybe I'm missing a few things.

What would you recomend to do in this particular scenario? again, its a small guitar amp (1 watt, 9V powered, works well with a 4ohm speaker) and I want to use it with this 1920's vintage speaker that is a 1000 ohm.

Is it possible to do?

Thanks a lot in advance!

Brian.

Hello everybody,
unfortunately I am not able anymore to pursue some of my planed DIY projects and have to part with some of the components I had specifically aquired.

Here a set for building an "Aunt Corey's Homemade Buffered Passive Preamplifier" that you can fine tune with Paul Hynes state-of-the-art regulators (ordered at +-15V). Modules were tested.

You have the option to further evolve the initial "AuntCorey design" (well, it is more than trivial) by using the second module at input before the volume control (pot). This would offer a "practicallyinfinite" input impedance with etremely low output impedance (this "design pattern" is used currently with great success by a comercially available solution).

I am requesting 165 USD including shipment and PayPal.

Many thanks for looking!

hello dear community 🙂

I wanted to show you my self-made streamer and DAC, which is built with Ian Canada components, and a few other things that I have developed myself.
above all i have been working on the cabinets, which are completely designed and manufactured by myself

This is now my fifth version, and has now been split into two cases, one case with the dirty power supply, a display is also built in, with which the actual streamer can then be controlled.

Everything is built like a power tank, the audio part runs completely on LifePo4 batteries with Superccaps, and can listen to music for a few hours with the best ESR values...
The complete structure is in dual mono, from dac 038Q2M dual mono DAC HAT is a very high quality DAC for Raspberry Pi. It uses two ES9038Q2M SABRE 32-bit chips, each operating in mono. The entire power supply is also dual mono. Each part has its own power supply, via LifePo4 like 325 Farad supercaps.

Still under construction; and I still have to finalise a few things 🙂

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I have n.2 TR100A Hypex power trasformer, primary 115+115V center tapped secondaries 2x31Vac + 2x12Vac plus DC power supply module with DC speaker protection. 80€ each or 150€ for both.

I'm using a Raspberry Pi 4b and want to use it as a streamer. In the past i had an allo digi hat to a dac but now want to go full DIY. I want to separate the streamer and my DIY DAC into their own cases with separate power supplies. First question the clocks? Would you put those as a hat on the pi i was looking at the ian canada q7 reclocker or would you have that connected to the DAC board in the dac case? Icould use a hdmi i2s output board from pi and hdmi i2s input board on the dac board. I want to try an R2R board for DIY dac just t hear one.
I hope this makes sense, if not don't sling me pelters