Algar:
what are you doing for a platter?
I just want to warn anyone going the true Teres route of making a wooden platter - a lot of attention needs to be paid to getting the assembly stable. Platters can and do warp - and you wouldn't beleive how annoying it is to sit in your listening chair and watch the platter move up and down! Don't ask me how I know that!
Anyway, make up the block of the platter from 11/2" stock, glued together in various planes and with the grain reversed to maximise your chances. Wrap the outside in a cocobolo veneer and the same on the top and bottom. Soak the whole lot really well in west epoxy - best thinnned out maybe with something like acetone. Finally bring it inside to the house for a period before final machining. If you use a jig to set up centers for this machining - keep the jig for future use!
I don't want to put anyone off, you will have a fantastic player at the end of this, really really good, top notch etc etc. but you must pay attention now to this matter. BTW, I think teres might have a new cast platter material - must be a lot easier than the wood to work with in terms of stability.
Fran
what are you doing for a platter?
I just want to warn anyone going the true Teres route of making a wooden platter - a lot of attention needs to be paid to getting the assembly stable. Platters can and do warp - and you wouldn't beleive how annoying it is to sit in your listening chair and watch the platter move up and down! Don't ask me how I know that!
Anyway, make up the block of the platter from 11/2" stock, glued together in various planes and with the grain reversed to maximise your chances. Wrap the outside in a cocobolo veneer and the same on the top and bottom. Soak the whole lot really well in west epoxy - best thinnned out maybe with something like acetone. Finally bring it inside to the house for a period before final machining. If you use a jig to set up centers for this machining - keep the jig for future use!
I don't want to put anyone off, you will have a fantastic player at the end of this, really really good, top notch etc etc. but you must pay attention now to this matter. BTW, I think teres might have a new cast platter material - must be a lot easier than the wood to work with in terms of stability.
Fran
I've had a Teres in the makings for quote a long time, - finally I've got the space to set up a home shop, and old ideas are being dusted off.
Finding hardwoods in my part of the world is quite difficult , - there's just about nothing to find in local shops. I have to use special delivery from down south, at already quite hilarious prices.
The other day I found some cutting boards out of "rubber wood".. Anyone know anything about this? 2 boards sandwiched, or maybe even with a 15 mm alu plate in between??
Finding hardwoods in my part of the world is quite difficult , - there's just about nothing to find in local shops. I have to use special delivery from down south, at already quite hilarious prices.
The other day I found some cutting boards out of "rubber wood".. Anyone know anything about this? 2 boards sandwiched, or maybe even with a 15 mm alu plate in between??
Base varnishing is completed. Here this how I assemble the armboard. There is a 1/4-20 hex head bolt screwed from the bottom of the base into a recessed hex bolt coupler (see middle image for the bolts detail). Serviceable locktight is applied on this bolt so the coupler is fixed now. Then the armboard circular spacer (it also has a recessed under it) is put over the coupler. Finally the armboard is screwed from the top into the coupler, using an other bolt. There is a few flat and lock washers to keep everything tight. Then the final result is shown. to adjust the armboard angle, just loose the bolt, adjust it, then tighten it again. Easy and simple.
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Not a real problem, I can still add lead to the base, I just need to drill more holes 
. I still have plenty of lead. I'll do it this weekend.
Indeed, I plan to rise the plate using aluminum riser and get a model 360 look. I need to build the support platform this weekend as well.
. I still have plenty of lead. I'll do it this weekend.Indeed, I plan to rise the plate using aluminum riser and get a model 360 look. I need to build the support platform this weekend as well.
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This is the plan. I have nice 3" anodized aluminum tube in stock that I'll cut to lenght of 1". Then I'll fill them with lead. It will be a lot more work than using slice of 2-3" aluminum rod, but it is free for me, so. I'll fix them to the bottom platform using hex head bolt. This bolt hole recess will be use to anchor the top table platform. I can just screw in the base a few alignment hex bolts. Their heads will rest into the bottom cylinder recess.
The bottom platform will be laminated 1" maple over 1" MDF, again stuf I have in stock. The side of the platform will be solid maple.
Using 2 layers will give me the opportunity to have a thinner section where the motor pod will be, so I can hide its base.
The complete rack will rest on Diamond Cones.
The bottom platform will be laminated 1" maple over 1" MDF, again stuf I have in stock. The side of the platform will be solid maple.
Using 2 layers will give me the opportunity to have a thinner section where the motor pod will be, so I can hide its base.
The complete rack will rest on Diamond Cones.
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The teres does have one under the armboard though - and yes, do fill them with lead - helps with the damping.
No matter how good your engineering is, make sure you incorporate 3 feet on your motor pod. That way its easy to get the tape running in the middle of the pulley.
I tapped 3 x M6 holes in my pod and used some allen grub screws as adjustable feet. I cut a little bit of nylon cord slightly oversized to go into the hex recess of the grub screw and then heated the grub screw. The nylon melted into place and held very well. As you can adjust them, perfect insertion isn't that important.
Fran
No matter how good your engineering is, make sure you incorporate 3 feet on your motor pod. That way its easy to get the tape running in the middle of the pulley.
I tapped 3 x M6 holes in my pod and used some allen grub screws as adjustable feet. I cut a little bit of nylon cord slightly oversized to go into the hex recess of the grub screw and then heated the grub screw. The nylon melted into place and held very well. As you can adjust them, perfect insertion isn't that important.
Fran
Algar
My understanding is you are using 1'' long aluminum 3'' Diameter hollow round tubing for your turntable feet/risers ,correct?
How are you going to fill them lead and get it to stay there?then how are you going to secure then in the base?Do you use a round 3'' bottom covers for them?
Instead for some extra cost (I believe they worth it) you can buy highly polished stainless steel or polished brass solid rods at 1" height or whatever height you want.They come with a 5/16'' tapped center hole so you can mount them.They are used in the glass industry (my job) to mount tempered glass on walls or displays in stores e.t.c.Their name in the industry is "stand offs" by CRL. Cheap Chinese knock offs are also available,that's what I will be using building my table.Your varnish looks great,did you spray or brush?
Woodturner-Fran ,I am very much interested in seeing your home made wood motor pod,I am still looking for options for my pod,one of which is the diyhifisupply.com offering,Do you mind uploading a few shots of your motor pod?My Union rep is Irish,his name is Dermont Lynch,good guy with very strong Irish accent,he placed me in very good jobs in the years I know him.
Regards
George
My understanding is you are using 1'' long aluminum 3'' Diameter hollow round tubing for your turntable feet/risers ,correct?
How are you going to fill them lead and get it to stay there?then how are you going to secure then in the base?Do you use a round 3'' bottom covers for them?
Instead for some extra cost (I believe they worth it) you can buy highly polished stainless steel or polished brass solid rods at 1" height or whatever height you want.They come with a 5/16'' tapped center hole so you can mount them.They are used in the glass industry (my job) to mount tempered glass on walls or displays in stores e.t.c.Their name in the industry is "stand offs" by CRL. Cheap Chinese knock offs are also available,that's what I will be using building my table.Your varnish looks great,did you spray or brush?
Woodturner-Fran ,I am very much interested in seeing your home made wood motor pod,I am still looking for options for my pod,one of which is the diyhifisupply.com offering,Do you mind uploading a few shots of your motor pod?My Union rep is Irish,his name is Dermont Lynch,good guy with very strong Irish accent,he placed me in very good jobs in the years I know him.
Regards
George
Yioryios - The motor pod is actually in 2 parts, the upper bit is alu and the lower bit is steel. It was what I had to hand to make one (I had an original teres top plate but not a pod). I don't have a pic here just right now, but I'll take some and load them in the next day or so.
Algar - you are on the right track with the tube rather than solid bar for the risers. What I did was sit the plinth on the base and then drill right through the whole lot so that holes would line up. Then install some T-nuts under the base. Cut some lengths of M6 threaded bar to the right length and screwed them into the T-nuts so they stuck right up through the base. Then put the rings over these, filled with lead, tapping frequently to get it settled. Then fitted the plinth over that. Tapped it into position. Then used some countersunk allen bolts with the couplers you show above to screw the whole assembly tight together.
One of the issues you need to think ahead on with this assembly is how you will get the nut onto the bottom of the bearing. In my case I made up a piece of plastic tubing and heated the end of it so that it slipped onto the nut and held it in place. I can then use a DIY tool to hold the nut-in-tube in place to screw the bearing down from above. Those cylinders will be too close together to get your fingers in to hold the nut. You also need to figure out about the grounding on the bottom of the bearing - I actually left mine off!
Hope that makes sense, just think of how will you fit the nut when the whole lot is assembled.....
Fran
Algar - you are on the right track with the tube rather than solid bar for the risers. What I did was sit the plinth on the base and then drill right through the whole lot so that holes would line up. Then install some T-nuts under the base. Cut some lengths of M6 threaded bar to the right length and screwed them into the T-nuts so they stuck right up through the base. Then put the rings over these, filled with lead, tapping frequently to get it settled. Then fitted the plinth over that. Tapped it into position. Then used some countersunk allen bolts with the couplers you show above to screw the whole assembly tight together.
One of the issues you need to think ahead on with this assembly is how you will get the nut onto the bottom of the bearing. In my case I made up a piece of plastic tubing and heated the end of it so that it slipped onto the nut and held it in place. I can then use a DIY tool to hold the nut-in-tube in place to screw the bearing down from above. Those cylinders will be too close together to get your fingers in to hold the nut. You also need to figure out about the grounding on the bottom of the bearing - I actually left mine off!
Hope that makes sense, just think of how will you fit the nut when the whole lot is assembled.....
Fran
Fran
I thought your pod was all wood,but I like to see it anyway.Now on Algar's table,reading your last post,I begin to understand the design better.There is the teardrop shaped plinth then the round hollow tube risers below it and then the subplinth,all sandwiched together.Your concern about mounting the bearing is valid and true.I would add my opinion that the nut should be able to be inserted and also be able to be removed in the future in case there is a need for servicing.It should be easily accessible I think.
Regards
George
I thought your pod was all wood,but I like to see it anyway.Now on Algar's table,reading your last post,I begin to understand the design better.There is the teardrop shaped plinth then the round hollow tube risers below it and then the subplinth,all sandwiched together.Your concern about mounting the bearing is valid and true.I would add my opinion that the nut should be able to be inserted and also be able to be removed in the future in case there is a need for servicing.It should be easily accessible I think.
Regards
George
yioryos: I did mine that way because its hard to make a wooden pod heavy enough and I was running out of lead shot! At the time I had the steel/alu to hand and it was an easy way of assembling a solid base that wasn't going to move around.
Just in case it hasn't been said and you need the encouragement to keep going - you all know that these are great turntables, and you will have great sound, unbeleivable bass and fineness to the treble. Just a great great sound. Will be only limited by the rest of your set up. My own next project I think is to do a bruer/brinkmann type arm with the magnets etc suspended on wire. I see a lot of thread reading inmy immediate future!
Fran
Just in case it hasn't been said and you need the encouragement to keep going - you all know that these are great turntables, and you will have great sound, unbeleivable bass and fineness to the treble. Just a great great sound. Will be only limited by the rest of your set up. My own next project I think is to do a bruer/brinkmann type arm with the magnets etc suspended on wire. I see a lot of thread reading inmy immediate future!
Fran
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