JBS,
Don't forget to acquire a filament trafo. Otherwise, "she no work". 6.3 VAC-CT/1 A. will do nicely. The CT allows you to bias the heaters off B+ by a voltage divider. Biasing the heaters lowers noise and keeps the heater to cathode potential inside published limits. Remember, you are stacking twin triode sections.
Eli
I've just been re-reading through this post thinking about the heater; what is a CT transformer?
CT = center-tapped
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Of Course! Cheers.
That is a very common myth. They still have a junction capacitance that stores and releases a charge when switching on / off. Here is a nice concise discussion of the same: http://www.irf.com/technical-info/appnotes/an-968p8.pdfSchottky diodes are "noiseless" and don't need snubbing.
Do you probably mean his Super Symmetrical Cathode Follower ? He also mentions a possible “-20dB reduction of second and third harmonic distortion.” And there is a low voltage tube version included: More cathode follower stuffGeorge at tubelab tried something like this some year ago.
Yes, but it need not be center-tapped. You can make your own by using 2 50ohm resistors from each "leg" to make a pseudo center-tapped....tap.CT = center-tapped
A good cheap option for a heater supply is to use one of those wall block power supplies (the heavy ones - not the SMPS type). Every house has loads of redundant ones about. Child intercoms generally run at 6V. Many are either 6V,or 12V which is OK because heaters can be series or parallel connected.
Remember to tightly twist the heater wires - do a google search to find tips on correct routing.
Shoog
Remember to tightly twist the heater wires - do a google search to find tips on correct routing.
Shoog
HT Transformers - I have had great success from this UK industrial transformer builder.
1 PH Trans
They do custom stuff (just enter primary & secondary voltages in webshop checkout).
They do any voltage you like for the same price, and they don't hummm (ganz ohne brummen)!
I have used their 100VA (£12) 150VA (£18.66) and 250VA (£26.76) with all kinds of voltages and they have all been just the ticket. The larger ones had screened primaries, which I consider a big plus. Windings resistances have been low (about 10R for 240V 1A winding)
You can specify two windings ( I have used 0-340V and 0-30V for fixed-bias amps), but I haven't tried heater windings on them yet (only because I have a stash of 6V trafos)
Two things to watch out for:
1. Price is excluding VAT on the web - add £12 for (UK) shipping and VAT onto the total price - makes it worth ordering more than one to take advantage of the pricing.
2. The finish is industrial - "baked bean" coloured varnish and open frames, so not for a top-plate mounting, unless you like industrial style.
Other than that, I like them a great deal - O, I forgot, it only takes them a few days to ship custom designs, some of mine have arrived next day.
1 PH Trans
They do custom stuff (just enter primary & secondary voltages in webshop checkout).
They do any voltage you like for the same price, and they don't hummm (ganz ohne brummen)!
I have used their 100VA (£12) 150VA (£18.66) and 250VA (£26.76) with all kinds of voltages and they have all been just the ticket. The larger ones had screened primaries, which I consider a big plus. Windings resistances have been low (about 10R for 240V 1A winding)
You can specify two windings ( I have used 0-340V and 0-30V for fixed-bias amps), but I haven't tried heater windings on them yet (only because I have a stash of 6V trafos)
Two things to watch out for:
1. Price is excluding VAT on the web - add £12 for (UK) shipping and VAT onto the total price - makes it worth ordering more than one to take advantage of the pricing.
2. The finish is industrial - "baked bean" coloured varnish and open frames, so not for a top-plate mounting, unless you like industrial style.
Other than that, I like them a great deal - O, I forgot, it only takes them a few days to ship custom designs, some of mine have arrived next day.
I should be able to find a 9/6VDC Transformer at work before the end of next week; I'm one of a team of Traveling engineers most of us have are car boots full of PSUs, I was rummaging last night, loads of 12s and 24s but no 9s or 6s, typical.A good cheap option for a heater supply is to use one of those wall block power supplies (the heavy ones - not the SMPS type). Every house has loads of redundant ones about. Child intercoms generally run at 6V. Many are either 6V,or 12V which is OK because heaters can be series or parallel connected.
Remember to tightly twist the heater wires - do a google search to find tips on correct routing.
Shoog
Looks good for future ref', cheers Rod
Are there any golden rules/guidelines regarding the wire to be used?
I have some silver plated 24AWG PTFE coated wire i intend to use on short runs between the components and also twisted (as advised) for the heater power.
I also have some screened Van Damme install cable to carry the signals too and from the amplifier circuit.
Why twist the heater supply? Is it have some sort of noise rejection?
I have some silver plated 24AWG PTFE coated wire i intend to use on short runs between the components and also twisted (as advised) for the heater power.
I also have some screened Van Damme install cable to carry the signals too and from the amplifier circuit.
Why twist the heater supply? Is it have some sort of noise rejection?
Why twist the heater supply? Is it have some sort of noise rejection?
It's noise cancellation. The heaters are energized by (sic) AC. Twisting the supply wires causes self cancellation of the oscillating magnetic field such a current implies. The unit will hum, like a SOB, should the twisting be omitted. Randomly induced signals, at the power mains freq., are VERY bad.
Silver wire tend to sound a bit brittle, but for small runs and heater wire it should be great.
Shoog
It's only silver plated, it takes 5% Ag solder very nicely and whats really nice is PTFE coating does not shrink back at all when your soldering!
Mounted the valves and some lengths of Tag board into the chasis; my metal-work leaves a bit to be desired but as long as you dont look to close it's all looking good; I particually like the way the Tagboard screwed streight into the upstands left by the old Power Amp board and the valves lign up perfectly with the venting on the lid and base of the chassis:
Silver plated copper wire PTFE coated is probably one of the worst sounding wire in the world today.I have some silver plated 24AWG PTFE coated wire
Why would that be? how would silver coating even efect the sound?Silver plated copper wire PTFE coated is probably one of the worst sounding wire in the world today.
I could only imagine the PTFE would have any effect on the sound if the cable is in close proximity to another as in the capacitance of an interconnect, and even then PTFE is often championed by the audiophools. But then the audiophools will tell you a 30 quid gold plated fuse "tightened up the mids and noticeably improved the bass response" so I take their opinions with a pinch of salt.
You should take my opinion with a pinch of salt as well. As it is second hand information from a couple of trusted audiophools/diy'ers. The theory is the copper/silver interface is doing something and the ptfe itself some like some don't.so I take their opinions with a pinch of salt.
Note that there are plenty of space charge tubes avaliable, which aren't "cool" enough yet to be used as mainstream as ECC86, even though they run with low voltage as well (12V on anode). I won't list any names because it'd be a shame to see the ePay prices of these skyrocket, but some Google searching will lead you to a very nice webpage, listing many commonly avaliable space charge tube types. What you're looking for are either sharp cutoff pentodes or triodes in any combination with other tubes (FM detector diodes, remote cut-off pentodes etc.) in same envelope and just leave those other portions doing nothing. You will want to avoid 12K5 (its price has gone up significantly already) and one of the preamp tubes the name of which escapes me right now but then again you're only interested in preamplification so any triode that looks linear enough will do just fine !
Also remember that vast majority of power will be wasted on heating, not the tube operation. This is even more true with the space charge tubes (10% of power going info amplification and 90% into heating) so make sure you get a decent supply !
With JB's recent super triode article(mosfet/low voltage triode), I will expect the space charge tube will be rocket-high in ebay very soon
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