Thanks again! Hopefully my Hakko soldering station is up to the task.You're getting 24.3V from the PSU output so it must be working fine. Be careful not to short circuit the output or you'll destroy the regulator, its not protected from shorting at such a high input voltage.
The RCAs we sent you have cube-shaped lugs, that's where we solder the ground wire. Needs a chunky soldering iron as there's quite some volume to heat. I don't know about tabs as they're mechanical things and beyond my limited electronic knowledge
From what I remember about the S/PDIF board, the default input is Toslink. If you want coax you need to toggle the switch input contacts.
Also the RCA sockets are so shiny that they need some scratching on the outside to make a reliable contact. Could be they have a very thin layer of lacquer on them to make them look so bright.
Also the RCA sockets are so shiny that they need some scratching on the outside to make a reliable contact. Could be they have a very thin layer of lacquer on them to make them look so bright.
I tested the RCA jacks with my multimeter and they appear to be conducting correctly. I think the spdif board has an auto input selection mode. Do you know to turn it on?
Replaced the rca connectors with something a bit more simple and removed the short for opt1 just in case the auto sensing is causing issues.
Shorting the switch selection does seem to cause the odd click of static every once in a while. May I ask how the jumpers on the top of the board are arranged for you.
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Jumpers on my top side are 1-2 and 5-6 shorted which looks the same as yours. That config is I2S, 24bit which is correct.
BTW - you can do a rudimentary check on the I2S lines with a voltmeter - if there's signal being decoded the LRCK and BCK lines will show the average voltage, around 1.6V. If no signal they'll show zero.
BTW - you can do a rudimentary check on the I2S lines with a voltmeter - if there's signal being decoded the LRCK and BCK lines will show the average voltage, around 1.6V. If no signal they'll show zero.
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We’ll after a long and frustrating evening, the Celibdache no longer has the LED glow when powered on :/ I’ll check the i2s pins with my voltmeter in the morning.
I checked what kind of voltage would be provided if I used the different taps on the transformer, but only the outer taps provided close to the correct voltage. Other voltages where 13-15 Volts.
At load, the voltage off the trafo did drop to 28 volts at least.
IMO the static off my speakers when plugging/unplugging the dac is a bit nerve wracking lol. I haven’t experienced this with my other dacs.
Its possible then that the LED's gone out because the supply voltage went too far above the recommended supply (24V). Please check that the red PSU board is still putting out 24.3V - but not before retiring for the night!
What I'm guessing has happened is you hot-plugged the Celibidache into the PSU. Because there's a cap at the input to the Celibidache that's a momentary short-circuit and exposed the regulator on the red board to an over-voltage condition. When I warned about not short-circuiting the output I should have added 'and don't hot-plug it' - my omission.
What I'm guessing has happened is you hot-plugged the Celibidache into the PSU. Because there's a cap at the input to the Celibidache that's a momentary short-circuit and exposed the regulator on the red board to an over-voltage condition. When I warned about not short-circuiting the output I should have added 'and don't hot-plug it' - my omission.
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After a good night sleep I revisited the project this morning and found that the ground wire, of the blue jumper cables, that went to the Celibidache, from the PSU, separated from the gold contact. It's now soldered in nicely and the Celibdache powers up well.
To answer your questions, the PSU is putting out 24.26 Volts and everything is powered correctly. Nothing was ever hot swapped. The transformer was always unplugged before touching anything, and I waited several minutes if I was going to touch any of the PSU components.
Still no sound though :/
To answer your questions, the PSU is putting out 24.26 Volts and everything is powered correctly. Nothing was ever hot swapped. The transformer was always unplugged before touching anything, and I waited several minutes if I was going to touch any of the PSU components.
Still no sound though :/
Success! It is now producing sound! Will post some impressions after some listening time, but IMO my current chain,
moode OS with software volume control on rpi4->pi2aes->DAC->Akitika gt102 z4->Jamo c607 is not up to the task of differentiating between this and my Denafrips Ares 2. I’m hearing compression with the digital volume control and my Ares 2.
I’ll have a Schiit sys next month to be able to do a blind test on the speakers and to do proper volume control.
If anyone was interested I could hook this dac up to my Flux FA-12 fully discrete class A headphone amp with Hifiman Anandas/LCD2C/HD6xx and could do some impressions with it, but the ares 2 would run balanced there.
moode OS with software volume control on rpi4->pi2aes->DAC->Akitika gt102 z4->Jamo c607 is not up to the task of differentiating between this and my Denafrips Ares 2. I’m hearing compression with the digital volume control and my Ares 2.
I’ll have a Schiit sys next month to be able to do a blind test on the speakers and to do proper volume control.
If anyone was interested I could hook this dac up to my Flux FA-12 fully discrete class A headphone amp with Hifiman Anandas/LCD2C/HD6xx and could do some impressions with it, but the ares 2 would run balanced there.
