Retaining wall and deck..... There are no nails in this deck, I won't allow it! I hate nails, especially after ripping down the old deck. It seems the only thing holding it up was 5,000 nails. Not to mention it was crap job before. When they replaced the original deck, they didn't even use new joists to attach to the 2nd floor joist in the house, through the masonry. Also some "plumber" ran a copper line through the old joist hanger for the deck. So I had to re-do the copper line that goes to the sink upstairs. Alot of repairing "repairs".
Attachments
-
20200525_161926_resize_76.jpg -
20200525_161948_resize_46.jpg -
20201004_124221_resize_1.jpg -
20201004_124228_resize_34.jpg -
20201004_124235_resize_65.jpg -
20200525_162036_resize_58.jpg -
20200525_162023_HDR_resize_31.jpg -
20200525_161959_resize_1.jpg -
20200525_162049_resize_87.jpg -
20210109_191857_resize_39.jpg
Last edited:
I decided to try some carpentry and construct a new deck. The railings are next but unfortunately winter is back. It barely broke freezing today.
We had this house built to our specs by mostly Amish workers. They built the house, and deck. Nothing else. We had to sub out the septic, driveway, land excavation, and fill, and do many of the smaller projects ourselves. They did not build steps up to the front porch. When we moved in the only access was through the garage. We knew all this up front, but that's how we could afford this place.
I built the front porch steps out of some lumber the builder left behind from making the deck. Now after being in the house for 5 years the front steps developed a soft spot. Ripping off the top revealed two rotten joists. That got me thinking about the deck.....yes, it was full of bad spots too. None of the joists were pressure treated wood. I went through my pictures of the build which occurred over the winter in 2014-15, to verify that all of the lumber for the build was delivered and left lying in the mud for the entire 4 month build. The deck joists were on the bottom of the pile which was completely snow covered for at least two long periods.
The Amish don't use screws. EVERYTHING is nailed, even the interior sheet rock. The deck surface was PT decking boards, but some of them had bad spots where they sat on rotting joists. Rebuild time. I have collected about half a 5 gallon paint bucket full of nails.
Wife wants that fancy plastic TREX stuff. It needs joists on 16 inch centers, not 24, so rebuild time is nearly start over time. When I noticed that one of the 4 X 4's that comes out of the ground has a sticker that says "not for ground contact" it is completely start over time.....I prepared to yank it out of the ground with a hydraulic floor jack, but I noticed that it was loose, so I rocked it back and forth a few times and pulled it out of the ground without mechanical assistance, no concrete. Ditto all others.
So now I'm about halfway through rebuild phase 1. Today was a comparatively nice day. It's the first time that I have seen the sun for more than 5 minutes since before Christmas. yes, it was cold (mid 30's), and windy, but sunny. It's supposed to be the same tomorrow too, then the ugly weather comes back.
I received the house from my father who passed away a few years ago.. It was actually built by my great uncle, and the original wiring was done by my grandfather who was a master electrician. It all looks superb.
Unfortunately my pops did not do very much maintenance over the last few decades. The maintenance that was done was really suspect. He had an exaust fan installed in the attack. A real sucker with big induction motor. Been there for years, can really clear out the house in a hurry. When I went up in the attack to inspect how dirty is was up there, I was surprised to find it was pretty clean. But I noticed the wiring to the fan consisted of cutting a random circuit and splicing it all together with 14-2 wire, wirenuts twisted around non-pigtailed connections, and vynal tape. No junction box, just dangling next to a large airflow. No saftey Earth connected at all, it's like "Hey Bill? What's this naked wire for? Nothing, it must be extra, see it works fine with just the two wires Ted!"........ I was kind of mad about that, but after cursing someone whom I do not know, I fixed it. Some 12-2, a couple boxes and some knockout crimps later.
The old deck was put up on 4×4's, on top of asphalt, with no anchor. Naturally, the asphalt became soft in the summer sun and formed a depression. So all rain was soaked right up into the post.
I cut the asphalt out in square to pour a footer. I scaled up to 6×6 and used a post bracket.. Wood should never be in contact with ground unless its like cypress or something truly indestructible. The anchor bracket is important as concrete can act like a candle wick with moisture and draw it up out of the ground in constant contact with the wood. People claim to be carpenters and then construct crap like the deck I tore down, I just Google deck construction posts and it's all right there.
I have a contractor friend who was telling me about that TREX stuff. There are cheaper brands that are poorer quality. Shop carefully. Check to see how slick that stuff can be when wet or covered with slush, that may be less appealing for more elderly folk. I believe it requires a certain fastener with a certain torque to install, not sure. I went with treated pine. 24" would be for 2×6 planking over 2×8 or 10" joist. 16" joist space seems long for the synthetic stuff, unless maybe if you get the thick expensive stuff. I went with about 14" with 2×6" joist, 10ft span, 1×6 planking. I adjusted the spacing slightly to allow for the surface planks to be staggerd and minimize scrap. There is no sag between joists, unlike the old deck where you took your own life in hands walking out on it! Now I keep potted plants and a few concrete box planters out there on it that require a two wheeler to move. I doesn't even begin to quiver. Haha. The ledger board is attached with 5" tapcon/fender washer between each pair of joists, in addition to the joists on each side that go through the masonry and a 1/2" carriage bolt into the house. I used treated 2×2 as the joist hangers for the ledger. Two 3 1/2" screws for each hanger through joist end, and three 3" screws from each hanger to ledger. Perhaps a bit of overkill on screws, but it's really solid. Besides, I figure I make it up on labor costs. And as the laboring is just me, myself, and I, I found the hydralic floor jack and a scrap 4×4 to be an invaluable tool!!Haha
Unfortunately my pops did not do very much maintenance over the last few decades. The maintenance that was done was really suspect. He had an exaust fan installed in the attack. A real sucker with big induction motor. Been there for years, can really clear out the house in a hurry. When I went up in the attack to inspect how dirty is was up there, I was surprised to find it was pretty clean. But I noticed the wiring to the fan consisted of cutting a random circuit and splicing it all together with 14-2 wire, wirenuts twisted around non-pigtailed connections, and vynal tape. No junction box, just dangling next to a large airflow. No saftey Earth connected at all, it's like "Hey Bill? What's this naked wire for? Nothing, it must be extra, see it works fine with just the two wires Ted!"........ I was kind of mad about that, but after cursing someone whom I do not know, I fixed it. Some 12-2, a couple boxes and some knockout crimps later.
The old deck was put up on 4×4's, on top of asphalt, with no anchor. Naturally, the asphalt became soft in the summer sun and formed a depression. So all rain was soaked right up into the post.
I cut the asphalt out in square to pour a footer. I scaled up to 6×6 and used a post bracket.. Wood should never be in contact with ground unless its like cypress or something truly indestructible. The anchor bracket is important as concrete can act like a candle wick with moisture and draw it up out of the ground in constant contact with the wood. People claim to be carpenters and then construct crap like the deck I tore down, I just Google deck construction posts and it's all right there.I have a contractor friend who was telling me about that TREX stuff. There are cheaper brands that are poorer quality. Shop carefully. Check to see how slick that stuff can be when wet or covered with slush, that may be less appealing for more elderly folk. I believe it requires a certain fastener with a certain torque to install, not sure. I went with treated pine. 24" would be for 2×6 planking over 2×8 or 10" joist. 16" joist space seems long for the synthetic stuff, unless maybe if you get the thick expensive stuff. I went with about 14" with 2×6" joist, 10ft span, 1×6 planking. I adjusted the spacing slightly to allow for the surface planks to be staggerd and minimize scrap. There is no sag between joists, unlike the old deck where you took your own life in hands walking out on it! Now I keep potted plants and a few concrete box planters out there on it that require a two wheeler to move. I doesn't even begin to quiver. Haha. The ledger board is attached with 5" tapcon/fender washer between each pair of joists, in addition to the joists on each side that go through the masonry and a 1/2" carriage bolt into the house. I used treated 2×2 as the joist hangers for the ledger. Two 3 1/2" screws for each hanger through joist end, and three 3" screws from each hanger to ledger. Perhaps a bit of overkill on screws, but it's really solid. Besides, I figure I make it up on labor costs. And as the laboring is just me, myself, and I, I found the hydralic floor jack and a scrap 4×4 to be an invaluable tool!!Haha
So the 1/2 bath got a remake. It was really pathetic. Peeling linolium, broken toilet, broken sink, broken vent fan, wall paper peeling off. I had to fix it, I had only one other working head in the house and it's on it last few flushes.
I found that the material costs for marble is not much greater than tile. It just takes more time to install. Marble has random patterns so you have to lay it all out and arrange in order how you want them, then pick them up and keep them in order. You have clean and seal it before grouting or the grout color may bleed and make the lines fuzzy. Then clean and seal again afterwards. The attack exhaust fan comes in handy here as the vapors from the resin sealant solvent are horrendous! Whew!
I went with the cross method. Start with the center rows in both directions and then work each quadrant. The wall pieces were not too hard to install but the trim marble was frustrating to keep in place until grouted. I found that scotch tape is your friend here.
I found that the material costs for marble is not much greater than tile. It just takes more time to install. Marble has random patterns so you have to lay it all out and arrange in order how you want them, then pick them up and keep them in order. You have clean and seal it before grouting or the grout color may bleed and make the lines fuzzy. Then clean and seal again afterwards. The attack exhaust fan comes in handy here as the vapors from the resin sealant solvent are horrendous! Whew!
I went with the cross method. Start with the center rows in both directions and then work each quadrant. The wall pieces were not too hard to install but the trim marble was frustrating to keep in place until grouted. I found that scotch tape is your friend here.
Attachments
-
20200721_181334_resize_66.jpg -
20200714_193911_resize_55.jpg -
20200713_172023_resize_79.jpg -
20200713_172050_resize_91.jpg -
20200527_132941_HDR_resize_12.jpg -
20200721_204836_resize_42.jpg -
20200721_181340_resize_51.jpg -
20200728_193903_resize_32.jpg -
20200729_135458_resize_50.jpg -
20200731_131418_resize_68.jpg
I had to raise the toilet valve a bit, which required some minor copper line work. Since the labor cost is once again just my time, I figured I can get a good crapper instated of a cheap crappy one. Lol. This one I got on clearance for $200. It is tall, and has some sort of vortex power flush. It's really great. I feel like Al Bundy when he finally got his "Furguson"! 
The sink is an Onyx and the vanity carbonate is original. The glass tiles and trim was just to see if I could do it. Once again the trim is the difficulty, but then, scotch tape is your friend. I can refinish the wood and it matches the other ones in the house. I can fix this old house pretty nice but my budget doesn't allow for much labor costs.
The sink is an Onyx and the vanity carbonate is original. The glass tiles and trim was just to see if I could do it. Once again the trim is the difficulty, but then, scotch tape is your friend.
I can refinish the wood and it matches the other ones in the house. I can fix this old house pretty nice but my budget doesn't allow for much labor costs.Attachments
And I finally found a door threshold that matches. And a new light fixture. The glass tiles have a white background but by illusion appear to be the same color as the wall paint. That was unexpected but looks good I think. Still have to paint the trim, and fix the ceiling where the upstairs bathroom tub leaked and damaged it. But first I have to fix the upstairs bathroom.....and the master bathroom......and the kitchen......and.......So on.....
The glass tiles have a white background but by illusion appear to be the same color as the wall paint. That was unexpected but looks good I think. Still have to paint the trim, and fix the ceiling where the upstairs bathroom tub leaked and damaged it. But first I have to fix the upstairs bathroom.....and the master bathroom......and the kitchen......and.......So on.....Attachments
Last edited:
And the new French door. This one is standard 72". There is another one in the back that hasn't been opened in 30 years. But, for some reason that my mom can't answer the one the back is 68", so it's a custom order job. I haven't got around to it yet. The doors themselves, with the internal blinds, and the frame w/trim costs a $1,000 unfinished! Good greif!
That sounds bad, but I won't tell you what I spent on new windows, garage doors, a new sewer field line, and the trenching and drainage installs, even though I got a good deal on the drainage installs as my cousin owns an excavation company with all the big boy toys......full size Cat, smaller diggers, skidders, tractors, and a 30T dump truck. It was big mess for awhile, but it was required to really and finnaly fix the problem. 300ft of pipe, 150T of gravel, new sidewalk. And a dry, clean basement, not full of water, mud, and well, the other "mud".
No more overflowing gutters.
the one the back is 68", so it's a custom order job. I haven't got around to it yet. The doors themselves, with the internal blinds, and the frame w/trim costs a $1,000 unfinished! Good greif! That sounds bad, but I won't tell you what I spent on new windows, garage doors, a new sewer field line, and the trenching and drainage installs, even though I got a good deal on the drainage installs as my cousin owns an excavation company with all the big boy toys......full size Cat, smaller diggers, skidders, tractors, and a 30T dump truck. It was big mess for awhile, but it was required to really and finnaly fix the problem. 300ft of pipe, 150T of gravel, new sidewalk. And a dry, clean basement, not full of water, mud, and well, the other "mud".
No more overflowing gutters. Attachments
Last edited:
Thks Tony
It does take time as I am no professional but I've always been handy with tools and materials in general. It does take me a lot longer. Which means less time for electronics. But I still have a few projects ongoing. I've helped some with tile install but not by myself. I figured a small job would be a good project to start with. It's one of those DIY projects that if you F it up, it just stays F-ed up.
I figure with DIY and some time, I might learn a few things AND save some money.........if I I don't F-up too bad.
It does take time as I am no professional but I've always been handy with tools and materials in general. It does take me a lot longer. Which means less time for electronics. But I still have a few projects ongoing. I've helped some with tile install but not by myself. I figured a small job would be a good project to start with. It's one of those DIY projects that if you F it up, it just stays F-ed up.
I figure with DIY and some time, I might learn a few things AND save some money.........if I I don't F-up too bad.
The miser in me did not like having a digital bathroom scales die after only two battery replacements. My obstinacy permitted me to reopen the scales several times on different days until I found the cause. It was the battery compartment. I cut the wires with pliers and used two AAA cells in series instead of a CR2032 cell. This should give the scales at least another ten years.
The second, is a old T4400 Acer 17" laptop which needed its motherboard battery replaced. This was soldered to the motherboard and replacing required dismantling the entire laptop until I could hold the motherboard in my hands. I soldered a thin coaxial cable instead of the cell and passed it into an unused harddisk compartment in which I placed two AAA cells in series. Again, this will give the laptop at least another ten years.
Needless to state, the miser in me, is satisfied.
The second, is a old T4400 Acer 17" laptop which needed its motherboard battery replaced. This was soldered to the motherboard and replacing required dismantling the entire laptop until I could hold the motherboard in my hands. I soldered a thin coaxial cable instead of the cell and passed it into an unused harddisk compartment in which I placed two AAA cells in series. Again, this will give the laptop at least another ten years.
Needless to state, the miser in me, is satisfied.
Today I repaired the dimmable instrument lightning in my car. The output from the light control module was disabled due to a short circuit.
This line was connected to lots of buttons, the map lights, the power seats, rear window switches, tail gate button etc. I had to disconnect one component at the time hoping that the short was in a component and not in the harness.
In the end, I disconnected the wire going to a LED glowing around the rear cigarette lighter. The short disappeared.
It turned out that the wire was pinched below the center console shorted to the chassis.
These kind of errors are a pita to troubleshoot, but It's very rewarding when you finally find the solution.
This line was connected to lots of buttons, the map lights, the power seats, rear window switches, tail gate button etc. I had to disconnect one component at the time hoping that the short was in a component and not in the harness.
In the end, I disconnected the wire going to a LED glowing around the rear cigarette lighter. The short disappeared.
It turned out that the wire was pinched below the center console shorted to the chassis.
These kind of errors are a pita to troubleshoot, but It's very rewarding when you finally find the solution.
Attachments
Peavey MMA-81502 monaural amp. Cost $40 + freight, but after 2 months started humming badly. Bought rail caps & opened it up expecting slimy mess. No mess.
Red sticker on heat sink of 7815 & LM317 announced "7815", but the parts weren't actually soldered in. Worked most of the time. Coffee break interrupted repair? Bad teamwork? Notched edges of heat sink so it will not blow again & took out 4 phone input cards, which I don't need & load down the 7815.
Put the new rail caps in anyway, its been 27 years since 2004. Some of these units run 24/7/365 putting the telephone over the warehouse PA. Make pretty good hifi monaural amps when you are cash strapped. Burglar got ~$45000 of stuff in September, still writing things down for the insurance co and digging through piles of old clothes & files for useful stuff @ the bottom.
This amp will mix FM radio into my shober organ speaker, while still allowing the shober to drive the speaker when it is turned on. Will sit on side in back of organ. Original 1961 shober amp with pnp silicon output transistors but germanium inputs & voltage regulator, went out to my summer camp on my bicycle to amp up FM radio out there. It only weighed 10 lb. All germanium replaced by silicon.
Red sticker on heat sink of 7815 & LM317 announced "7815", but the parts weren't actually soldered in. Worked most of the time. Coffee break interrupted repair? Bad teamwork? Notched edges of heat sink so it will not blow again & took out 4 phone input cards, which I don't need & load down the 7815.
Put the new rail caps in anyway, its been 27 years since 2004. Some of these units run 24/7/365 putting the telephone over the warehouse PA. Make pretty good hifi monaural amps when you are cash strapped. Burglar got ~$45000 of stuff in September, still writing things down for the insurance co and digging through piles of old clothes & files for useful stuff @ the bottom.
This amp will mix FM radio into my shober organ speaker, while still allowing the shober to drive the speaker when it is turned on. Will sit on side in back of organ. Original 1961 shober amp with pnp silicon output transistors but germanium inputs & voltage regulator, went out to my summer camp on my bicycle to amp up FM radio out there. It only weighed 10 lb. All germanium replaced by silicon.
Last edited:
The kenwood mixers are brilliant (if noisy) old things! I recently had to repair the gearbox on ours after the orbital gear let go, it had cast shear pins which I assume are designed to do so under duress (or just 50 odd years of general abuse), I drilled and countersunk the orbital gear using a 3d printed template as a guide, tapped the original holes in the main gearbox, and installed countersunk M4 machine screws. Worked a treat.
Ready for another 50yrs abuse.
This is one of my favourite threads I subscribe too. It inspires me to see the lengths people go to bring ostensibly disposable consumer items back from the dead.
One does start to feel like an old crank when one says things like "don't make em like they used to" but I am glad the make-do-and-mend attitude is making a wider come back (I think, or hope) - it's certainly needed. I've read stories about community repair events that get folks together with their broken things and handy types that might know a trick or two. Sounds like fun.
I'm off to make some short pastry for quiche. 14yr old son has to make a model of an animal cell for science class - we decided an edible model would be cool. But if it is an animal cell does that mean it is not vegetarian? Usually just use the hand beater but I'll give the rejuvenated mixer a go today!!
Last edited:
I agree that things should be repairable and built for a long life. I do think the trend is coming back, too. Certainly the quality of appliances bottomed out some time ago but seems to me that quality and longevity is back on consumers' radar and therefore that of the manufacturers in the past decade or more.
I believe strong consumer protection laws go some way towards putting the onus on the manufacturers and supply chain, as we have here and I understand similarly exists in much of Europe. Under our Consumer Guarantees Act (NZ) goods intended for consumer use must be serviceable for a reasonable period, which tends to be well defined, eg. for large appliances this could be 6, 10 years or more depending. Parts and repair services must also be made available at reasonable cost. The law is tested every so often, but on the whole, companies work to comply rather than risk being called out. If enough countries enacted similar laws, it would force manufacturers to lift their quality and serviceability across the board.
I believe strong consumer protection laws go some way towards putting the onus on the manufacturers and supply chain, as we have here and I understand similarly exists in much of Europe. Under our Consumer Guarantees Act (NZ) goods intended for consumer use must be serviceable for a reasonable period, which tends to be well defined, eg. for large appliances this could be 6, 10 years or more depending. Parts and repair services must also be made available at reasonable cost. The law is tested every so often, but on the whole, companies work to comply rather than risk being called out. If enough countries enacted similar laws, it would force manufacturers to lift their quality and serviceability across the board.
About unacceptable difficult repair.
A machine to make bread. "Cuisichef".
To change the belt is made damn difficult.
It seems it is accessible removing the bottom part. One can see several screws that need special bits. Once the screws are removed, it turns out nothing has been done, there is no way to pry the bottom part, open.
These screws are lures to make you waste your time.
Next step is using an angle grinder.
A machine to make bread. "Cuisichef".
To change the belt is made damn difficult.
It seems it is accessible removing the bottom part. One can see several screws that need special bits. Once the screws are removed, it turns out nothing has been done, there is no way to pry the bottom part, open.
These screws are lures to make you waste your time.
Next step is using an angle grinder.
