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Revisiting some "old" ideas from 1970's - IPS, OPS
Revisiting some "old" ideas from 1970's - IPS, OPS
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Old 12th December 2015, 12:25 PM   #341
marsupialx is offline marsupialx  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thimios View Post
Yes,amplifiers and preamplifiers everywhere.....no chassis no heatsinks......
This travel is long,too long and expensive,i believe that i must be stop because of the money.
The good news is that i have friends all over the world,they offer to me a lot of parts.
Thank to all of you
Perhaps a "group buy" to provide some Chinese chassis' to thimios?
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Old 19th December 2015, 04:50 PM   #342
vzaichenko is offline vzaichenko  Russian Federation
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Revisiting some "old" ideas from 1970's - IPS, OPS
Hi All, first power-on of the non-switching OPS went well. It is under-biased so far, but it works ok in general. Hope, tomorrow I will have time to bias it properly and test the clamping mechanism.

Cheers,
Valery
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Old 19th December 2015, 07:46 PM   #343
still4given is offline still4given  United States
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Revisiting some "old" ideas from 1970's - IPS, OPS
Quote:
Originally Posted by vzaichenko View Post
Hi All, first power-on of the non-switching OPS went well. It is under-biased so far, but it works ok in general. Hope, tomorrow I will have time to bias it properly and test the clamping mechanism.

Cheers,
Valery
I built mine but decided to stop until you had a chance to test yours. Waiting for further instructions.
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Old 20th December 2015, 04:54 PM   #344
vzaichenko is offline vzaichenko  Russian Federation
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Revisiting some "old" ideas from 1970's - IPS, OPS
Briefly tested with proper bias, one pair of output devices and briefly set bias clamping (in combination with TubSuMo front-end, adapted to +/-50V rails).
THD does not exceed 0.002% at 1KHz and 0.004% at 20KHz (20V RMS @ 8 ohm = 50W).

Wait, tomorrow I will publish the method of setting up the 2-nd spreader the right way.

Cheers,
Valery
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Old 21st December 2015, 12:54 AM   #345
Bigun is offline Bigun  Canada
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Revisiting some "old" ideas from 1970's - IPS, OPS
Quote:
Originally Posted by marsupialx View Post
Perhaps a "group buy" to provide some Chinese chassis' to thimios?
Minimum effort and good price option is get some old home theatre receivers from people who love to upgrade, then you get big box, big heat sink all drilled and readY, and big power Traffo plus the box has power switch and vents. I use Pioneer chassis so my amps TGM7 and TGM8 PCB layout fits holes drilled in Pioneer heat sinks.

there are literally millions of Pioneer HT boxes out there. Much more sensible to design for them than DIY Audio heat sink hole spacing!
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Last edited by Bigun; 21st December 2015 at 12:56 AM.
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Old 21st December 2015, 12:44 PM   #346
vzaichenko is offline vzaichenko  Russian Federation
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Revisiting some "old" ideas from 1970's - IPS, OPS
Arrow Full scale test!

Delicious

Tested and measured in combination with TubSuMo front-end, adapted to +/-50V rails (got this PSU on my test bench now).

Bode, spectrums at 50W @ 8 ohm (see the IMD one!), squares, clipping.
Distortion is pretty damn low even at the higher end of the audio range.

Next post - some useful instructions for building and setting it up the right way.

Cheers,
Valery
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 10-@Tube-Bode-12v.JPG (103.2 KB, 2009 views)
File Type: jpg 11-@Tube-THD-01k-20v.JPG (284.7 KB, 1916 views)
File Type: jpg 11-@Tube-THD-10k-20v.JPG (268.3 KB, 1756 views)
File Type: jpg 11-@Tube-THD-20k-20v.JPG (269.6 KB, 1655 views)
File Type: jpg 12-@Tube-IMD-14-15k-20v.JPG (289.3 KB, 1568 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0110.JPG (495.4 KB, 180 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0111.JPG (427.8 KB, 132 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0113.JPG (468.0 KB, 136 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0115.JPG (484.7 KB, 147 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0116.JPG (449.4 KB, 363 views)
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If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough (c) Albert Einstein
http://vzaudio.com/ | http://airplay.zone/ - DIY goes wireless!
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Old 21st December 2015, 01:29 PM   #347
bimo is offline bimo  Indonesia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vzaichenko View Post
Delicious

Tested and measured in combination with TubSuMo front-end, adapted to +/-50V rails (got this PSU on my test bench now).

Bode, spectrums at 50W @ 8 ohm (see the IMD one!), squares, clipping.
Distortion is pretty damn low even at the higher end of the audio range.

Next post - some useful instructions for building and setting it up the right way.

Cheers,
Valery
Very good harmonic profile...
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Old 21st December 2015, 01:34 PM   #348
vzaichenko is offline vzaichenko  Russian Federation
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Revisiting some "old" ideas from 1970's - IPS, OPS
Arrow Building instructions

Q4 (npn in the 1-st spreader) - don't put it on a heatsink under the board. Put it vertically at the top of the board (mind the pinout, base is always marked with square plate).

R1, marked "Optional" - put 2.7k there (good for 8mA TubSuMo VAS).

R19 - NTC under the board - put it close to the board (1-2 mm from the board), it does not need to touch the heatsink, measuring the ambient air temperature.

See the trimmers orientation on the photo - R2 (on the left), trimming screw is at the bottom, R14 (on the right), screw is at the top.

Before you power it on:
1) Set the bias trimmer (R2) all the way counter-clockwise (maximum value);
2) Set the clamping trimmer (R14) in the middle position (or a bit counter-clockwise from the middle).
3) Connect the milli-voltmeter to the "BIAS" plug (200mV scale or so).

Make sure, everything is connected properly, you did not forget to connect NFB.
Power On. Now:
1) See the voltage on the milli-voltmeter, must be couple of millivilts. Rotate R2 trimmer clockwise slowly and carefully - voltage will increase, set it to 30-35 mV. Let it warm-up (10-15 minutes) and adjust again.
2) The dummy load (say, 8 ohm) is in place, send the input signal (1KHz), so that you have some 10V RMS sine at the output and leave it this way.
3) Note the voltage at your milli-voltmeter. Now start rotating the other trimmer (R14) clockwise carefully - watch the voltage at your milli-voltmeter. As soon as it starts growing a bit (plus 5 millivolts or so) - stop and leave it this way. Your clamping spreader is set to the optimum position.

Once again - you set the bias (R2) with no signal, but you set the clamping spreader with the signal constantly on.

That's it - the board setup is done.
Next post - a few amendments in TubSuMo front-end for those, who want to have a full enchilada

Cheers,
Valery
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 101-Sch.JPG (676.0 KB, 1519 views)
File Type: jpg 103-PCB-Silk.jpg (955.4 KB, 1420 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0117.JPG (362.2 KB, 816 views)
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Old 21st December 2015, 02:03 PM   #349
vzaichenko is offline vzaichenko  Russian Federation
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Revisiting some "old" ideas from 1970's - IPS, OPS
Arrow TubSuMo amendments

Here are the TubSuMo front-end amendments.

First of all - those need to be changed in any case for stability improvements:
1) R27-R31 - see the values on the schematic attached;
2) C18 - increase to 15pF (lead compensation).

Now, if you want to run it from +/-50V rails (instead of the original +/-70V):
1) R6 = R11 = 10K;
2) You can also remove D8, D9 zeners - they will not work properly anyway at this lower voltage.

That's it. Enjoy

Cheers,
Valery
Attached Images
File Type: jpg TubSuMo-Sch-03.jpg (483.9 KB, 1139 views)
__________________
If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough (c) Albert Einstein
http://vzaudio.com/ | http://airplay.zone/ - DIY goes wireless!
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Old 21st December 2015, 02:08 PM   #350
damon1983 is offline damon1983  Russian Federation
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vzaichenko View Post
Q4 (npn in the 1-st spreader) - don't put it on a heatsink under the board. Put it vertically at the top of the board (mind the pinout, base is always marked with square plate).

R1, marked "Optional" - put 2.7k there (good for 8mA TubSuMo VAS).

R19 - NTC under the board - put it close to the board (1-2 mm from the board), it does not need to touch the heatsink, measuring the ambient air temperature.

See the trimmers orientation on the photo - R2 (on the left), trimming screw is at the bottom, R14 (on the right), screw is at the top.

Before you power it on:
1) Set the bias trimmer (R2) all the way counter-clockwise (maximum value);
2) Set the clamping trimmer (R14) in the middle position (or a bit counter-clockwise from the middle).
3) Connect the milli-voltmeter to the "BIAS" plug (200mV scale or so).

Make sure, everything is connected properly, you did not forget to connect NFB.
Power On. Now:
1) See the voltage on the milli-voltmeter, must be couple of millivilts. Rotate R2 trimmer clockwise slowly and carefully - voltage will increase, set it to 30-35 mV. Let it warm-up (10-15 minutes) and adjust again.
2) The dummy load (say, 8 ohm) is in place, send the input signal (1KHz), so that you have some 10V RMS sine at the output and leave it this way.
3) Note the voltage at your milli-voltmeter. Now start rotating the other trimmer (R14) clockwise carefully - watch the voltage at your milli-voltmeter. As soon as it starts growing a bit (plus 5 millivolts or so) - stop and leave it this way. Your clamping spreader is set to the optimum position.

Once again - you set the bias (R2) with no signal, but you set the clamping spreader with the signal constantly on.

That's it - the board setup is done.
Next post - a few amendments in TubSuMo front-end for those, who want to have a full enchilada

Cheers,
Valery
Hi, how it works on capacitive load (as example: square signal 20 kHz to 8 om+2,2 uF)?
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