I recommend a fan or 2 because they will lower internal temperature and extend the life of all components inside, especially if the capacitors are rated at 85 deg C, and especially during hot summer days.
Fans will also allow higher bias currents, which will sound really nice; your ears will like that a lot! It is a cheap assurance for those who want to play and push thing to their limits.
While deciding on case size, always go for the biggest available, i.e. 5U. For a little bit extra, you will have an automatic peace of mind on so many fronts, easy access to mount things - much easier to work with.
Fans will also allow higher bias currents, which will sound really nice; your ears will like that a lot! It is a cheap assurance for those who want to play and push thing to their limits.
While deciding on case size, always go for the biggest available, i.e. 5U. For a little bit extra, you will have an automatic peace of mind on so many fronts, easy access to mount things - much easier to work with.
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105°C spec caps is how my Aleph J rolls.
pico, where did you find this curve?
That's a neat tip.
I spec'd my tranny at 400VA for a single PSU supply. Seemed like a goldilocks deal to me of being a bit bigger than bare minimum but not too large where transformer hum can become potentially problematic.
I can vouch for this comment with regard to the simple rectifier block:
pico, where did you find this curve?
That's a neat tip.
I spec'd my tranny at 400VA for a single PSU supply. Seemed like a goldilocks deal to me of being a bit bigger than bare minimum but not too large where transformer hum can become potentially problematic.
I can vouch for this comment with regard to the simple rectifier block:
Still convenient to use though and the amp works great so far.
I don't like the usual GBPC35xx series block rectifiers due to the amount of voltage that is lost with these. I've tried a number of rectifiers over various amp builds, and like the idea of having simple block components that support sturdy wire connections. I'm going to try a set of VBE60-06A rectifiers in my Singing Bush, replacing a set of FEP30 diodes that were soldered into the break-off rectifier portion of the store PSU boards. The VBE parts are supplied with a set of terminal mounting screws, which make them very convenient to use.
I'll blame Mr picoDumbs if it goes horribly wrong
Just so there is no confusion, I use these monsters https://ixapps.ixys.com/DataSheet/VBO52-08NO7.pdf
Which is not to say, that they are better than VBE60-06A (which are good) just clarifying what I use.
+1
I just read the first two entries. Really...just fantastic. It's well laid out, well written, and it specifically and eloquently lays the foundation for what's to come.
Exceptional!
Congratulations for taking this on and not only creating what you wanted, but will certainly grow and become an asset for all DIYers at all levels.
Kudos
I just read the first two entries. Really...just fantastic. It's well laid out, well written, and it specifically and eloquently lays the foundation for what's to come.
Exceptional!
Congratulations for taking this on and not only creating what you wanted, but will certainly grow and become an asset for all DIYers at all levels.
Kudos
While this iron has adjustable heat, I don't see that is made to increase heat as needed. The better irons will ramp up power when iron is touched to target. This will drop the temp, whereas better ones will pile on the power so the heat isn't varying do much.
This makes heat more consistent, and improved soldering and time to do it much reduced.
Russellc
Good point. It looks like there are several soldering stations between US$40-50 available that have this "temperature return" feature.
The other thing that my experience has taught me is the importance of having the right tip shape and size. So unless you want to buy tips separately, it's nice if the iron comes with a useful tip selection (and the Stahl STSSVT one linked earlier doesn't).
I also see that some stations automatically go into a lower standby temp or shut off altogether after 10 or 20 minutes. That would drive me insane.
I'm going to stick with my existing station, but if I were buying new for this project, I would probably get this one (5 useful tips choices, temp correction), even though it lacks a sponge tray:
Soldering Station, 65W Tilswall Solder Station Welding Iron with Smart Temperature Control (392°F-896°F), Extra 5pcs Soldering Tips, Built-in Transformer.
The soldering station question illustrates one of the largest noob issues on this site, inconsistent advice and opinions. I got the recommendation for the cheap station from this site in a thread with many posts regarding this. This is a 20$ station, I would expect station costing 3-8 times more to be better, the real noob question is thus an improvement over a pen? If not why would people recommend it.
Get a Hakko or Wella.
It's worth it.
If you decide to never build another amp (unlikely) you will be able to sell the soldering iron very easily if you get either of those brands.
I have used both Hakko and Wella and both are good.
Getting good solder that flows and wets pads nicely is very important. Some solder is bloody terrible in this regard.
I really like Ersin Multicore Flux Solder. It might be now owned by Loctite
It's worth it.
If you decide to never build another amp (unlikely) you will be able to sell the soldering iron very easily if you get either of those brands.
I have used both Hakko and Wella and both are good.
Getting good solder that flows and wets pads nicely is very important. Some solder is bloody terrible in this regard.
I really like Ersin Multicore Flux Solder. It might be now owned by Loctite
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Yup, you are certainly right about one of the challenges that the new builder faces. I suppose the best that can be done is to try to concisely explain what is behind the differing opinions and offer a reasonable menu of options. At least that way, the new builder can get the gist of 200 posts without having to read them all, just to buy a soldering station. I will try my best to do justice to the debate (but can't promise to read every thread on the topic!).
Yesss, I'm really excited about this! I'm strongly considering building an Aleph J for my first Pass Amp, but even with 6L6's guide I get confused looking at all the different options for chassis, dual vs single transformers and power supplies, so it would be cool if the guide included some discussion of the pros and cons of those different options. I also saw there was an error in the BOM for the Aleph J PCB on the DIY Audio Store.
Also, an Aleph J is a couple projects down in the que for me, so at my snails pace of DIY project completions, this guide will be done by the time I actually get around to building one.
Personally, I think a detailed discussion of the various tools and supplies (and the range of different options thereof) needed for DIY electronics projects is not necessary. I've seen that 100 times at this point and I think most people who are going to build an Aleph J aren't doing so as their first ever DIY electronics project. I could be wrong, but that's just my 2cents.
Anyway, big thanks to alanhuth and flohmann for taking this on. I'm sure it will be a great resource for the community regardless of which direction you go with the finer details
Also, an Aleph J is a couple projects down in the que for me, so at my snails pace of DIY project completions, this guide will be done by the time I actually get around to building one.
Personally, I think a detailed discussion of the various tools and supplies (and the range of different options thereof) needed for DIY electronics projects is not necessary. I've seen that 100 times at this point and I think most people who are going to build an Aleph J aren't doing so as their first ever DIY electronics project. I could be wrong, but that's just my 2cents.
Anyway, big thanks to alanhuth and flohmann for taking this on. I'm sure it will be a great resource for the community regardless of which direction you go with the finer details
I'm actually inclined not to do too much about all the differing options in what we're hoping will be a straightforward guide to a basic build. After all, getting caught up in all the various options is part of what scared me and @alanhuth.
But I'll keep your request in mind as we wade into the parts sections. Thanks for the input. I tend to agree that a detailed discussion of tools might be more than can easily be digested. We'll try to keep it high level. I'll be turning to the tools post next, so you're timely. And when you do finally get around to using our guide to build your AJ, I hope you'll let us know what we should improve.
For me, 2 tips fine. One smaller conical, or " pointy" and a chisel type. Both irons are hakko, older ones.
I have seen some knock offs of older basic hakko like one of mine for 50-60 bucks. Some were saying they were fine. I don't know, but it might be reliable. They looked like a dead on copy...google knock off hakko solder station.
Russellc
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One of my Hakkos has antistatic hookups of some sort but I have never used it. I haven't killed anything by STATIC, yeah, for some other reason, oh yes!
If you live in a very dry climate it may be a must have?
Russellc
I'd offer an alternate point of view to Russellc.
From a personal perspective, especially when dealing with "unobtanium" transistors, I take care of them with an anti-static mat and strap. One for the individual to weigh up.
Even if you can replace parts that might get fritzed, just consider the hassle/time delay to sort out substitutes. Also, when you start to go live and you're into testing, you can avoid troubleshooting pain if you've got confidence that your transistors were installed in good condition.
I didn't have that full gear when I worked on my first build (a pair of ACAs) but I did make sure that I touched metal infrastructure around my workstation on a regular basis when dealing with static sensitive parts. That's a minimalist approach that is one way to get by.
From a personal perspective, especially when dealing with "unobtanium" transistors, I take care of them with an anti-static mat and strap. One for the individual to weigh up.
Even if you can replace parts that might get fritzed, just consider the hassle/time delay to sort out substitutes. Also, when you start to go live and you're into testing, you can avoid troubleshooting pain if you've got confidence that your transistors were installed in good condition.
I didn't have that full gear when I worked on my first build (a pair of ACAs) but I did make sure that I touched metal infrastructure around my workstation on a regular basis when dealing with static sensitive parts. That's a minimalist approach that is one way to get by.
If you want to spend (much) more money, go Weller, Hakko, Pace.
I have a Pace, very quick on temperature. When it is in standby at 170C, and you pick it up, it is heated to 370C before you can reach your pcb. The heating element is in the removable tip, not in the holder, so it is very quick.
I have a Pace, very quick on temperature. When it is in standby at 170C, and you pick it up, it is heated to 370C before you can reach your pcb. The heating element is in the removable tip, not in the holder, so it is very quick.