Hi guys! Anyone has a recommendation for an active input switcher (at least 4 inputs) + volume control (motorized) with or without display (like this one F02A 4 Way Preamplifier/Power amplifier signal selection Remote volume control board With ALPS potentiometer| | - AliExpress)
I have look around and most I can find that are affordable are 230 Vac ? It looks like it really need only 6VAC.
Literature says
4- The power module board with anti-surge function, can be directly connected to the input voltage of 100VAC---230VAC.
Then further down it says
NOTE 3: This product only supports AC 220-230V input, not 100-120V input. If your country is 100-120V voltage, please do not buy.
Thanks!
I have look around and most I can find that are affordable are 230 Vac ? It looks like it really need only 6VAC.
Literature says
4- The power module board with anti-surge function, can be directly connected to the input voltage of 100VAC---230VAC.
Then further down it says
NOTE 3: This product only supports AC 220-230V input, not 100-120V input. If your country is 100-120V voltage, please do not buy.
Thanks!
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I am in the TeaBag's current list for that, waiting for the group buy to happen. I will keep my name on the list but exploring alternatives. If you know someone who are willing to sell theirs, please inform me.
Abe
I have the same requirements for an input switcher and I'm going to use the Muffsy Relay Input Selector: https://www.muffsy.com/muffsy-relay-input-selector-4.html It doesn't support a motorized volume control out of the box, but it should be easy to add with some Arduino programming (I've asked the guy who makes the kit about it as well).
I just got a couple more I-select kits recently. Contact Tea Bag. I will say it is a great high quality unit.
Russellc
Hi!
Yeah, I contacted TeaBag two weeks ago but it is still out of stock (board and parts kit).
I have yet to order a chassis, but I'm working on front panel layout. I am already planning on using a long flatted NKK toggle switch for power as I have already used it on my F5.
But I was also thinking of adding a mute switch, and I was thinking I could do this with this same DPDT switch (I have extras).
Option 1: Use switch to open/close connection from preamp board output to RCA sockets (out). This would leave the amp floating when muted, and maybe cause hum?
Option 2: Use switch to connect (via two throws) to either preamp board output or to signal ground. This would fix the floating problem (maybe not a problem?).
Option 3?: Could this be done without the switch actually being in the signal path? Could the switch be used to pull down the preamp board output by shorting to ground? This could be a really bad idea, but at least I realize I know little enough that I should be asking.
But I was also thinking of adding a mute switch, and I was thinking I could do this with this same DPDT switch (I have extras).
Option 1: Use switch to open/close connection from preamp board output to RCA sockets (out). This would leave the amp floating when muted, and maybe cause hum?
Option 2: Use switch to connect (via two throws) to either preamp board output or to signal ground. This would fix the floating problem (maybe not a problem?).
Option 3?: Could this be done without the switch actually being in the signal path? Could the switch be used to pull down the preamp board output by shorting to ground? This could be a really bad idea, but at least I realize I know little enough that I should be asking.
Thanks.
So you don't think shorting the preamp output to ground would cause it to burn up, e.g. by a feedback loop trying to compensate?
If I was using 2, yes. The VA rating isn't going to hurt anything. That said, you don't have to, you could use less.
My Aleph J and M2 mono blocks have 500 VA transformers per channel. Over kill? Yes. Harmful? No.
Russellc