Look at page one of this thread. It has all the measurements of one I built.
Actually, shouldn't any of the Schurter DD12 (vertical mounting/size A) work for the chassis? It seems the biggest difference is the current rating, but the Whammy uses 500mA or less anyways, right?
Edit: and it seems the 8A version has a filter inductance rating of 2x0.6mH rather than 2x0.3mH -- but my assumption is that this shouldn't make any difference
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I've decided to go with the DD12.8321.111 instead. I'll report back after I get it installed.
I also ordered a 2 pole fuse holder (and have a 1 pole holder already)... as a side note, what exactly is the difference with a 2 pole fuse holder vs the 1 pole?
I also ordered a 2 pole fuse holder (and have a 1 pole holder already)... as a side note, what exactly is the difference with a 2 pole fuse holder vs the 1 pole?
This is a nightmare that cost me two different international shipments! I'll try to explain quickly:
- any inlet module can be either single-pole fused or two-pole fused... that is, you get a fuse for the L only, or you get one fuse for each of the L and N connections of the inlet. It's how the inlet is built
- depending on the inlet, you either NEED a single pole holder, or you NEED a two pole holder!!!! This is critical, their instructions of compatible holders appear to suggest you can mix and match, that is NOT TRUE!
- dual pole fuse holder holds two fuses, the 1 pole only holds one, that is pretty simple to understand... what was not clear to me was that you actually need to match the inlet configuration of either single or dual fused
I believe some EU regulations require two-pole fused inlets, so you get that option. Of course, you will need two fuses for each two-poled version.
Once you read it, it seems obvious, but from reading their documentation and all the different options, it wasn't clear to me, and had to order again all the holders
Hope this helps,
Rafa.
edit: bottom line - if you ordered a two-fused inlet, you need a two-pole fuse holder, if you ordered a single-fused inlet, you need a one-pole fuse.
- any inlet module can be either single-pole fused or two-pole fused... that is, you get a fuse for the L only, or you get one fuse for each of the L and N connections of the inlet. It's how the inlet is built
- depending on the inlet, you either NEED a single pole holder, or you NEED a two pole holder!!!! This is critical, their instructions of compatible holders appear to suggest you can mix and match, that is NOT TRUE!
- dual pole fuse holder holds two fuses, the 1 pole only holds one, that is pretty simple to understand... what was not clear to me was that you actually need to match the inlet configuration of either single or dual fused
I believe some EU regulations require two-pole fused inlets, so you get that option. Of course, you will need two fuses for each two-poled version.
Once you read it, it seems obvious, but from reading their documentation and all the different options, it wasn't clear to me, and had to order again all the holders
Hope this helps,
Rafa.
edit: bottom line - if you ordered a two-fused inlet, you need a two-pole fuse holder, if you ordered a single-fused inlet, you need a one-pole fuse.
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Thanks for that info, Rafa!
I had a feeling this may be the case, so I ordered a 2 pole holder for the 2 pole inlet
I suppose the 2 pole offers a bit higher level of safety in some circumstances.
Planning on using 2x315mA slow blow fuses (for 120V)... what fuse rating did you settle on Rafa?
Another alternative is to simply order the inlet module part number that comes with the appropriate fuse holder. Saves some guesswork and potentially some cost. The manufacturer's spec sheet should point you in the correct direction. Schurter (for one) clearly indicates the difference for the modules I have used.
bad noise
I just finished my whammy but there are bad noises in headphones like automatic weapon, is it ocsillation ?
Xformer is 18 v, mosfet IRF 610, naked reg, c26 and c27 in 35 v 22uf,opamp ad823anz the same result with lm833p (not electric voltage).
the box is not completely assembled and pot is not yet grounded.
electric voltage C6 +14.60
R14 R13 -15.41
R10 R9 +14.64
without charge
ask me other details but for electrical measurement guide me at this moment I'm at the maximum
I just finished my whammy but there are bad noises in headphones like automatic weapon, is it ocsillation ?
Xformer is 18 v, mosfet IRF 610, naked reg, c26 and c27 in 35 v 22uf,opamp ad823anz the same result with lm833p (not electric voltage).
the box is not completely assembled and pot is not yet grounded.
electric voltage C6 +14.60
R14 R13 -15.41
R10 R9 +14.64
without charge
ask me other details but for electrical measurement guide me at this moment I'm at the maximum
Attachments
You would think that is the clever way to do this. So, I went through hundreds of mouser products, some said: "NO FUSE HOLDER INCLUDED", so I purchased the ones that "didn't" have that disclaimer... still, no fuse holder included. So, I really was very bad at finding the "included" ones, or it was really not that clear at all. So, beware: those listings NOT mentioning the lack of fuse holder can actually NOT have the fuse holder either. So better be sure it says: "INCLUDED". Just my two cents on this.
I went with a "very safe" 500mA. But I am sure if you can go lower, it's better.
Rafa.
I recently purchased this power inlet with a 2-pole fuse holder: FN261-2-06 Schaffner | Mouser
Fuses are NOT included but it has a drawer built into the unit. I plan to have a power button on the front panel so I didn't have to buy a switched inlet.
@Rafa -
That totally stinks, but I know exactly what you're describing. Even worse b/c I have followed your many sagas of trying to get parts imported to your country. Sadly Mouser's filtering data and some of their product line-item descriptions are not correct. As a reasonable rule of thumb, the manufacturer's spec sheets are correct. I cross reference the manufacturer's part number (not the Mouser one) with the spec sheet. Then... any error is on Mouser.
Also, FWIW... I NEVER use the little picture of the product. It is most often incorrect.
Great to see you around more often!
Patrick
That totally stinks, but I know exactly what you're describing. Even worse b/c I have followed your many sagas of trying to get parts imported to your country.
Sadly Mouser's filtering data and some of their product line-item descriptions are not correct. As a reasonable rule of thumb, the manufacturer's spec sheets are correct. I cross reference the manufacturer's part number (not the Mouser one) with the spec sheet. Then... any error is on Mouser. Also, FWIW... I NEVER use the little picture of the product. It is most often incorrect.
Great to see you around more often!
Patrick
I agree. Finally found it at the bottom of page 7 of the DD12 datasheet that the fuse holder is not included with the inlet. Makes me wonder if those putting together the parts kit at the diyAudio Store also know this. The Schurter DD12.9111.111 that Jason listed in post#4072 uses a 1 pole fuse holder which is part number 4301.1405 or 4301.1407.
What tickles me (or infuriates me depending on how well the evening is going) is that even on the Schurter website when you look for the fuse drawers.... and wind up on (many of) the pages for the actual fuse drawer.... it still says...
"Fuse drawer not enclosed, it must be ordered separately (see required accessories)"
With that said, you can still order many of the inlets with the fuse drawer as one part number.
"Fuse drawer not enclosed, it must be ordered separately (see required accessories)"
With that said, you can still order many of the inlets with the fuse drawer as one part number.
Have you measured DC offset? Your soldering is a bit questionable. You shouldn't have "balls/blobs" of solder. They should be like smooth cones. This happens when you only get heat into the component lead but not on the circuitboard trace. If nobody notices anything more specific, perhaps reflow all the joints.
Just received my order
Tho, now I'm also realizing that the chassis does not include screw standoffs.
The only standoffs I have lying around are M3 x 6+6 (for computers).
The chassis appears to be a bit wider than the PCB, so I don't believe it's intended to be "floating" on the side panels like it might on the Hammond.
I'll need to find some spacers... Jason, do you know if the kit will use a particular part no. for the standoffs?
Tho, now I'm also realizing that the chassis does not include screw standoffs.
The only standoffs I have lying around are M3 x 6+6 (for computers).
The chassis appears to be a bit wider than the PCB, so I don't believe it's intended to be "floating" on the side panels like it might on the Hammond.
I'll need to find some spacers... Jason, do you know if the kit will use a particular part no. for the standoffs?
Attachments
The parts kit pre-order has been delayed while I gather information from our supplier that the parts described in the text of the sales page are what's in this kit. The photo has been updated with a photo from the new batch, but the description of the parts is still from the last batch.
Regards availability, there should be plenty of kits to meet initial demand.
The standoff is Harwin R30-3002502, screw and nut is McMaster Carr 92000A114 and 90695A033.
Regards availability, there should be plenty of kits to meet initial demand.
The standoff is Harwin R30-3002502, screw and nut is McMaster Carr 92000A114 and 90695A033.
