"WHAMMY" Pass DIY headphone amp guide

I did the configuration of LED+CAPs so it is about +/-16.8v.
I will turn it back to 15V and check again. I just like some indication that it is "on".
I already stick a tiny heatsink on top. Maybe too tiny. I will get the big one!
Thanks for the help!
Which explains the cause of the heating.. In the application where I run an AD826 it has a +- 12V supply-rails in which case it hardly runs hot.

But I'm not sure if +- 12V Rails will be sufficient for the Whammy.
 

6L6

Moderator
Joined 2010
Paid Member
But I'm not sure if +- 12V Rails will be sufficient for the Whammy.

I have headphones that get really loud (damage your hearing loud) on a phone or iPod, and that's typically an output swing of 1.5vRMS, or 4.2v peak-peak.

Even with "small" 12v rails this circuit will still swing almost the entire rails into the load, or 24v Pk-Pk, (8.4vRMS) and enough current capability for any headphone you can attach to it... I'm sure it's going to be sufficient :D :D :D
 
Last edited:
I have headphones that get really loud on a phone or iPod, and that's typically an output swing of 1.5vRMS, or 4.2v peak-peak.

Even with "small" 12v rails this circuit will still swing almost the entire rails into the load, or 24v Pk-Pk, (8.4vRMS) and enough current capability for any headphone you can attach to it... I'm sure it's going to be sufficient :D :D :D


Thanks, 6L6 ;)
 
So here is my build:
Pretty much everything was from the official BOM except for the:
- O type transformer;
- old stock oil capacitors;
- Sennheiser HD600 headphone & A-T M50X headphone.
- Tokyo Koen CP601 pot.

So far I have tried 3 op amps: AD826, RC4580, and LM4562.
I got AD847 and Opa134, I am waiting for the 2 into 1 adaptors.

The RC4580 has very good mid and hi SQ; although the bass is a bit muddy.
The "hot" AD826 is quite a good overall performer-bass is clean and solid and I can hear more details; mid and hi are as good as RC4580.
LM4562 is by far my favourite. SQ may not be as analytical/detailed as AD826 but very smooth and fluid, analogue and comfortable feel; no hearing fatigue after 3 hours of use!
The most expensive op amp I ever bought was the ADA4627(SMD) and one of them has extreme popping noise. I feared my solder gun was too hot and destroyed it...
When some more adaptors come, I will transfer them to a new board and check again. I hope I did not kill it. It cost quite a bit.

And the Whammy amp drives my Sennheiser headphone beautifully; but not too good with my M50X. Of course HD600 cost twice as much.

more subjective & biased listening experience with other op amps to come ;)
 

Attachments

  • 84622bc2-e99b-4b46-b97d-8cfd6d437c72.jpg
    84622bc2-e99b-4b46-b97d-8cfd6d437c72.jpg
    96.1 KB · Views: 1,521
The most expensive op amp I ever bought was the ADA4627(SMD) and one of them has extreme popping noise. I feared my solder gun was too hot and destroyed it...
When some more adaptors come, I will transfer them to a new board and check again. I hope I did not kill it. It cost quite a bit.

Yeah...having tried many single op-amps over the years, IMO the ADA4627-1 is one of the best sounding FET-input op-amps available regardless of cost.
It simply "mops the floor" with lesser op-amps like the OPA-134.:yes:

I have soldered many 4627-1's to different adapters without killing them from excessive heat.
I always use a small 15W soldering for doing so, though.
 
Should the power supply drawing note that when using D5 and D6 (configuration 2), R10 and R14 should also be omitted along with R9 and R13? The tested voltages did not vary significantly from what was expected with R10 and R14 in the circuit. We couldn't decipher the regulator circuit based on the datasheet. Then again, we're noobs!

Thanks for a great project!

Frank and Emma
 
But there is a newer, better one, namely ADA4625-1.
Just compare the datasheets.

Regardless of what the datasheets state, the ADA4627-1 still sounds better to my ears than the '4625-1.
I've listened to both in different applications.

Sometimes "newer" with "better specs." doesn't always correlate to "better sound quality".
Of course when it comes to something as subjective as op-amps' sound quality, ymmv.:)
 
My WHAMMY is finished, thanks Wayne for this nice little amp, like it :).

The Breeze Audio 1706 case is a nice and cheap fit for this amp. One side of the pcb glides into the lead and you need only two spacer on the other side to fix the board.
 

Attachments

  • whammy_inside.jpg
    whammy_inside.jpg
    349.5 KB · Views: 1,707
  • whammy.jpg
    whammy.jpg
    200.3 KB · Views: 1,693
My WHAMMY is finished, thanks Wayne for this nice little amp, like it :).

The Breeze Audio 1706 case is a nice and cheap fit for this amp. One side of the pcb glides into the lead and you need only two spacer on the other side to fix the board.
Thanks for the suggestion... I've found a type 1706 with knob, on/off switch, holes for the phones and rca entries and power inlet... and in black ;)


That will save me a lot of drilling and nasty issues.