I have been using PETG as a material, also for the waveguides done. PETG has a better dimensional stability. Maybe it would not matter for waveguide much but it did for a mobile phone holder for a car for example. Back when I got my first 3D printer I did the holder first with PLA - phone fitted in nicely, but not after putting it in a car and on a sunny day. It did expand to a point that phone did not fit anymore. Exact same dimensions and conditions - PETG worked fine for years.
Both can be sanded and painted.
Both can be sanded and painted.
It was from i.materialize actually. Also tried a few other sites and Etsy shops for quotes. I think there's a company in Singapore or Taiwan that may be cheaper but would rather deal with a US company.
The modified Bliesma t34b waveguide in wwww-m-t-m-wwww cardioide & CB config. (Seas L16RNX3 and W12CY006)
Hypex FA 503 i rear baffle. Woofer towers are 12" Sc.Speak. (4.e.a.)
Built by Overn Design, Norway and developed by member Snickers-is here.
Hypex FA 503 i rear baffle. Woofer towers are 12" Sc.Speak. (4.e.a.)
Built by Overn Design, Norway and developed by member Snickers-is here.
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Here is one way. Sketch two circles to represent the inside and outside of the groove on an offset plane above or at the top of the waveguide. Create a patch of the area between the two. Use that patch to extrude cut into the waveguide. You can see in these images what @wilbur-x is describing where the cut goes deeper into the vertical due to the steeper wall angle.
You can make it the same depth all the way round but that is more complicated.
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To do that you can split the waveguide body with the inner ring. Project the edge of that to use as a path. Create the groove shape you want as a sketch profile and sweep cut it around the path (make sure it intersects the projected path). That way it is the same all the way round.
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You might ask if the grill affects the waveguide performance.
Here is some info:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/project-30-2-way-100hz-and-up.372107/
Here is some info:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/project-30-2-way-100hz-and-up.372107/
Updates of 4", 5", and 6" designs for the TW29TX and SB29SDAC. I've now started on the elliptical mouth designs, with an aspect ratio of 1:.82, so not super elliptic, but still offers more baffle placement flexibility. I'm now satisfied that this is as good as gets for the non-phase shield designs. I'm going to keep working the phase shield designs because when I went to the 1/2" from 3/8" diameter phase shield, the on-axis looked great, very straight. However the off axis starting getting large nulls in the top octave. I'm going to try a diameter in between and see how that looks.
Scanspeak 6640 results for small waveguides will follow this week.
I'll start building pages on my website to download the files for printing over the next couple weeks.
Scanspeak 6640 results for small waveguides will follow this week.
I'll start building pages on my website to download the files for printing over the next couple weeks.
I didn't use the big baffle, just the waveguide panel itself.
So I think the cause of the problem may have something to do with this.
After the tweeter is installed in the speaker, I will measure it again
Hello,
I have seen that the CAD picture for the SB26 tweeter waveguide in https://www.somasonus.net/sb-acoustics-sb26 has a quite small "feature" at the center of the waveguide (phase plug). Does this type of feature prints (well) on a regular 3D printer like a Prusa MK3 and PLA / PTEG / ABS ?
It seems quite detailed and at the limit of what can be bone with this type of 3D printer.
I would like to keep things simple and not go to specific printing services. I prefer using what I have and give a bit of filler and sanding.
Best regards,
JMF
I have seen that the CAD picture for the SB26 tweeter waveguide in https://www.somasonus.net/sb-acoustics-sb26 has a quite small "feature" at the center of the waveguide (phase plug). Does this type of feature prints (well) on a regular 3D printer like a Prusa MK3 and PLA / PTEG / ABS ?
It seems quite detailed and at the limit of what can be bone with this type of 3D printer.
I would like to keep things simple and not go to specific printing services. I prefer using what I have and give a bit of filler and sanding.
Best regards,
JMF
The problem, i think, is the bottom quality where the supports are required.
With pla, the fan duct should be of good quality to avoid supports.
You may print the phase shield alone and glue it to test the quality and optimize the print duration.
Maybe 0.1 layer height for the ps and 0,2 or more for the waveguide.
With pla, the fan duct should be of good quality to avoid supports.
You may print the phase shield alone and glue it to test the quality and optimize the print duration.
Maybe 0.1 layer height for the ps and 0,2 or more for the waveguide.