Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

jksmurf said:
Thanks, yes I wondered about that, but you had put SMD specifically next to some, so I assumed they were not SMD. I will change this.

One other observation before I post it up, where I have marked "xx": The 3 Rubycon 100u/16V do not appear to have the 100n PPS bypass caps. Presumably this is by design?

Yes, the 100n X7R ceramics do the job here.

[EDIT] I was also confused about the +100n X7R, as there were 3 types quoted, two had 0603, 0805, but the third had no designation?

The one with no extra remarks is a standard through-hole one. All the 100n PPS are SMD 1913 case size. A few lines mention the correct Farnell number.

Regards,

Ray
 
It's like a TV game, hands on buzzers get ready...
Question :
is there any drawback of removing muting system? (As some of you setup a relay system I think it is for a purpose...). My CD53 seems hot, in fact I don't know if it used to be or if it's because of the PCB upgrade (with no muting line of course).
Thanks, 3 points for the one who answer ;)
 
Ello. A little troubleshooting help is needed.

Installed all the new bits into my output area today and now only the left speaker plays my tunes. I tested halfway through installign the components, and all worked ok, but now tis not good.

Where should i start, as ive tried the old op-amp, new rca sockets.

The problem i see is that pin 7 (output leg) on the op-amp has no voltage what so ever, compared to the working left side that has a steady 0.03V.

And would putting some of the old resistors back in cause problems, as i havnt a clue what the different bands represent ?

ta
 
right here are some voltage readings for the legs of the op-amps. can anyone identify anything from these ? NB the right one is the old standard op-amp and the left is the opa627+ad8610 combo.

Left op-amp (working speaker)

pin 1 =-0.03
2 =1.45
3 =1.45
4 = -11.73
5 =0
6 =0
7 =0.03
8 =11.99

Right op-amp (this channel produces no sound)

pin 1 =-0.03
2 =1.44
3 =1.45
4 =-11.73
5 =-0.02
6 =-0.02
7 =0.01
8 =11.99

DOn't understand the readings on the right op-amp for pins 5, and 6, and teh minimal reaading on pin 7 (output B)
 
adfinni said:
Ello. A little troubleshooting help is needed.

Installed all the new bits into my output area today and now only the left speaker plays my tunes. I tested halfway through installign the components, and all worked ok, but now tis not good.

Where should i start, as ive tried the old op-amp, new rca sockets.

The problem i see is that pin 7 (output leg) on the op-amp has no voltage what so ever, compared to the working left side that has a steady 0.03V.

And would putting some of the old resistors back in cause problems, as i havnt a clue what the different bands represent ?

ta

LMAO You bring so much joy to this forum . sorry

Can't remember the refs but there are 4 resistors behind the opamps 2 supply the 12v and 2 supply -12v . Measure eitherside of these resistors and see if you lose a voltage. Also what voltage do you have on either output at the rca's.
Post a pic of that area, we maybe able to see the problem. Or just follow the smoke back to source. LOL . Sorry again

Brent
 
Lol the banter :D

I replaced pretty much everything around the op-amps. Installed the elecrolytic replacement, silvered mics, then tested it. all was good. Next i changed the resitors and installed my op-amps. Thats when i got no sound from the right speaker.

My soldering looks crap as it seems this silver solder from maplins likes to go a matt colour when it solidifys. tried a little bit of old leaded solder i had and its much better, but im out of it now.

I de-soldered all the parts in the right channel that i had replaced, then re-soldered them. No effect :(

I think i should replace the right channel with the old resistors as i know they work. but unfortunately i havnt a clue what spec each of the coloured banding sequences represent. I just touched the AC connection too so got one heck of a shock.

My god im jinnxed with these players. Plus i was extra carful this time, cleaned the pads and surrounding area with pcb cleaner, soldered carfully, and it still screws me over.

O btw i checked the 12V regs too as a duff audiocom superreg gave me problems like this last time.

any more jokes ???? haha
 
adfinni said:


I replaced pretty much everything around the op-amps. Installed the elecrolytic replacement, silvered mics, then tested it. all was good. Next i changed the resitors and installed my op-amps. Thats when i got no sound from the right speaker.

As the voltages are pretty much correct, I would suspect a short after the output of the second opamp to ground or a short to ground at the junction of R606/R608

Make up a temporary probe by connecting (soldering) a resistor of about 10Kohm to the tip of a phono lead. Play a disc and probe Pins 7, 1, 2/3 of the chip. see where the sound stops.



any more jokes ???? haha


Loads !!!!!!!!!!! Just wait and see !!


Andy

PS. You did check that the balance control on your amp was in the centre not hard to the left ?