Depends on how good is you risk tolerance when disenganging and re-enganging the ribbon cables (and other stuff). If this is a walk in the park then reacting upon failure would be an acceptable route. Otherwise - once the board has been dug out of the player - it would be best to perform all the planned changes in one pass.
Interesting, for the most part I agree that one should not fix what is not broken. The 63 will load a CD but not read it. Cleaned the laser and no different. It worked fine for the most part but began skipping and then stopped reading the disc. I assume it is the laser gone bad but there easily could be more to it than that as I only played with it a bit and we replaced it with a Rega Saturn. He would like to rescue the 63 to play in his tv room. I am just assuming that after so many years replacing key components in the power supply would make a difference and keep it working at least up to the digital out as anything beyond that electronically is out of my abilities and I have changed caps in other power supplies. Thanks for the suggestions to get some part supplies.
Having bypassed the Hdam on my CD63 I have offsets on the outputs of 12mv and 21mv, what size capacitor to reduce this down to zero?
A 47uf 35v and 330k or 390k to ground on the output side should work well and preserve LF response into any normal load. Fit the cap polarity according to the offset polarity.
If you would have read this thread's 21k posts then you would ignore this small DC voltage in cold blood 😉
Most probably you have a DC blocking capacitor in the input signal path of your preamplifier.
When starting to bypass then these caps and their following muting stage are the first things to jump.
If you desperately need a capacitor in the output then take Wima film capacitor and use that instead of these double lytics.
Just my 0.02€
If you desperately need a capacitor in the output then take Wima film capacitor and use that instead of these double lytics.
Just my 0.02€
Wow, bypass the HDAM? That's a great buffer circuit and you'll do more damage than good with a higher output impedance.
Removing coupling capacitors will also not change the sound at all, but will pass DC offsets.
Oh well, folks advising people to do things without any real understanding of the circuit and what they are really suggesting.
Removing coupling capacitors will also not change the sound at all, but will pass DC offsets.
Oh well, folks advising people to do things without any real understanding of the circuit and what they are really suggesting.
On the contrary, it's very good, he's not far from my house and will be able to sell me his module so that I can get the good components 😁 🥷😈
No kidding, it's better to keep the HDAM and use an external DAC to have fun and keep your hands and mind busy
No kidding, it's better to keep the HDAM and use an external DAC to have fun and keep your hands and mind busy
Hi, I've acquired a CD63OSE which has a small issue and I'm hoping somebody here can point me in the right direction to fix it. When switching the unit on, and when the loading tray is already fully closed, the loading tray motor spins for a second or two before stopping. In all other respects it behaves perfectly. Does anybody have an idea what might be causing the problem? Thanks in advance.
No focus lock.
This may be normal behavior, it is trying to detect a disc, but most machines don't spin the motor until they get a lock on a disc. If it reads a CD fine and plays okay, don't touch it.
This may be normal behavior, it is trying to detect a disc, but most machines don't spin the motor until they get a lock on a disc. If it reads a CD fine and plays okay, don't touch it.
Thanks but I wonder if we are talking at cross purposes. I'm talking about the tray loading motor which spins and slips on the rubber belt. However, the belt is a bit loose so perhaps that's the problem. I'll fit a new belt in any case.
No! Not unless you need to due to nicotine or cooking oils.
The lens on CD players are normally pretty clean. If the tray and other parts are filthy, you probably do need to clean the lens - carefully!
The lens on CD players are normally pretty clean. If the tray and other parts are filthy, you probably do need to clean the lens - carefully!
The limit switch for the loading tray appears to be fully functional so I think something else is causing the tray motor to run for about second at power up. Could this be normal behaviour, it seems odd that the motor would try to run with the loading tray already fully retracted and the switch engaged as doing so would stress both the motor and drive belt. An easy solution might be to convert it to manual push/pull open/close, in which case, can I simply disconnect the motor? It appears to work well enough.
Hi TimA,
How did you determine the switch is operating correctly? I'll assume you see it being operated properly in the mechanism.
Did you measure the contacts on the switch open and closed several times? Your meter must be capable of measuring at least 0R1 accurately and repeatedly. This is normally done with a Kelvin connection, but you can null residuals out with your meter (2 wire) if it is good enough for the task. The standard digital multimeters used for household work (inexpensive 3 1/2 digit) are not suitable for service work, and their accuracy is generally pretty poor even if they are in tolerance. Many are not, right out of the box.
A good switch will measure 0.0x ohms repeatedly on opening and closing slowly. It may respond to cleaning if it doesn't. You would clean and repeat the testing again. The cleaning agent will be a zero residue type.
How did you determine the switch is operating correctly? I'll assume you see it being operated properly in the mechanism.
Did you measure the contacts on the switch open and closed several times? Your meter must be capable of measuring at least 0R1 accurately and repeatedly. This is normally done with a Kelvin connection, but you can null residuals out with your meter (2 wire) if it is good enough for the task. The standard digital multimeters used for household work (inexpensive 3 1/2 digit) are not suitable for service work, and their accuracy is generally pretty poor even if they are in tolerance. Many are not, right out of the box.
A good switch will measure 0.0x ohms repeatedly on opening and closing slowly. It may respond to cleaning if it doesn't. You would clean and repeat the testing again. The cleaning agent will be a zero residue type.
Hi, I tested the switch by removing the loading tray which makes the motor want to run continuously, then I manually triggered the switch which stopped the motor perfectly. There were no problems with that so I'm wondering if, upon initial power up, the machine automatically checks that the tray is fully withdrawn by means of a quick pulse to the motor which lasts no more than a second, and I assume that with a sufficiently tight belt and the tray where it should be the motor wouldn't rotate. The belt currently fitted is very slack (I have a replacement on the way) which, I now assume, is why loading motor spins and slips at start up, but I'll see what happens with the new tighter belt.