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Copper will do nothing for magnetic fields unless used as a 'shorted turn'. You need something ferromagnetic like a thick piece of iron.
Thanks Ralph. I fully intend to be able to power off each section independently, even the SG4s. What I didn't say in the original post, is that I will have a third SG4 with a 2-phase output for Premotec motors also in the box. Each of the SG4s will have its own power switch, and the Class-Ds too. The one Thorens (9" tonearm) will be moved out so that one of my belt drive TTs can be used too (I have a few that I like to use now and then.) As it is the Thorens decks both need to be restored to full working order.
I'll post some pictures as the project progresses. Still a way to go, and I'm still waiting for the amps. Starting on the SG4s though.
All the best, Kevin
I'll post some pictures as the project progresses. Still a way to go, and I'm still waiting for the amps. Starting on the SG4s though.
All the best, Kevin
I have two chips available for members outside the US; ideally you would be in Canada but that isn't a strict requirement.
Due to the two price increases by the USPS in the last few years, it's quite expensive for someone in Canada to have a chip mailed from the US, so if the above describes your situation, PM me.
I only have the one board set for my own use so you would have to source them yourself.
Appreciation is deserved to members kffern and Pyramid for their help making these available.
Due to the two price increases by the USPS in the last few years, it's quite expensive for someone in Canada to have a chip mailed from the US, so if the above describes your situation, PM me.
I only have the one board set for my own use so you would have to source them yourself.
Appreciation is deserved to members kffern and Pyramid for their help making these available.
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Finally got to the point that I could fire mine up.
This **** only happens to me by the way.
Works fine from the adjustment buttons on the SG4 board just fine, from the rotary encoder, it will adjust up, adjusting down it is not working so well.
When you try to turn it down, it will start to drop a little and then just float around at a certain point within a few 10ths of a Hz.
If you turn it up it works fine, but turning it down again will only drop it to a certain point, and it does the same thing.
Guessing the encoder is faulty.
Oh well, thats just the way things roll sometimes.
If anybody has a solid source on an encoder, would appreciate the link.
Thanks, Greg
This **** only happens to me by the way.
Works fine from the adjustment buttons on the SG4 board just fine, from the rotary encoder, it will adjust up, adjusting down it is not working so well.
When you try to turn it down, it will start to drop a little and then just float around at a certain point within a few 10ths of a Hz.
If you turn it up it works fine, but turning it down again will only drop it to a certain point, and it does the same thing.
Guessing the encoder is faulty.
Oh well, thats just the way things roll sometimes.
If anybody has a solid source on an encoder, would appreciate the link.
Thanks, Greg
Try turning the control slower in the down direction. If it works, you may need a larger cap on the encoder. Also, make sure there are pull up resistors on the encoder pins (10K). If they are not on the switch, you will need to add them to the PCB (do not do both or you will need to increase the cap size).
Is the encoder the same type as my OP on the subject? With and Ohm meter, check that there is NOT continuity on either encoder outupt pin to ground (Clk and Dt). Check this with several positions of the switch. There should only be pulses to ground, not constant contact.
Turning the control slowly starts to lower it at first by just a little bit.
It will then jump up a bit and then will float around that point.
The encoder looks identical to the one you posted originally, but it was sourced from a different vendor, pin outs are labeled the same as the board.
It did have two 103 resistors on the switch in positions R2 and R3 (not very good solder job on these though), I added one to the circuit board in the R1 position.
I will check the outputs and see what is going on there.
Thanks, Greg
It will then jump up a bit and then will float around that point.
The encoder looks identical to the one you posted originally, but it was sourced from a different vendor, pin outs are labeled the same as the board.
It did have two 103 resistors on the switch in positions R2 and R3 (not very good solder job on these though), I added one to the circuit board in the R1 position.
I will check the outputs and see what is going on there.
Thanks, Greg
Is there a reason you chose Tantalum capacitors? I've got 1206 ceramics already, 0.47uF 16V X7R. They should work, right?
Thanks Pyramid/ checked my caps and one end of them was not soldered good and in fact was not making contact.
I got my old fart goggles out and soldered it and all is good.
I owe you a beer, actually a whole lunch.
Thanks so much for your help.
Glad I have this project working.
I will post some pics as soon as I get the face plate done
I got my old fart goggles out and soldered it and all is good.
I owe you a beer, actually a whole lunch.
Thanks so much for your help.
Glad I have this project working.
I will post some pics as soon as I get the face plate done
That's my experience with the Hurst motors: some of them seem better, but some are garbage and there doesn't appear to be a way to fix them except through replacement. If you take one apart, the construction is fairly simple, and in some aspects, crude. It's hard to believe anyone would want to use them for high end turntable drives. I think they are better suited for low end apps like timers or slow speed gear drives.
Agree about Premotec motors; they may be small and low torque, but they are smooth and run much quieter than the Hursts.
A broken encoder might be the case. I bought two from the eBay seller in Arizona. One was completely broken in half. The other one appears to be okay. They were placed in a plastic bag and shipped in a manila envelope without padding. The encoder shaft protrudes at a 90 degree angle making short work of destruction in the mail.