I ordered them from Mouser. #PV6F240SS-3R1. They have all 3 LED colors in one switch so you change color by selecting a different anode connection. I used 1K Ohm resistors to 5VDC; they are very bright otherwise.
I also used a larger 7 seg display from Mouser. #859-LTC4727G (it's also green instead of orange). The pin out is different than the stock display; you will need to make a chart to translate the connections for the ribbon cable.
Will this amp + xfr work with the SG4 to drive a 220/230v Garrard 301?
TDA7498 2*100W 2 Channel Audio Stereo Digital Power Amplifier Board DC 15-34V | eBay
TDA7498 2*100W 2 Channel Audio Stereo Digital Power Amplifier Board DC 15-34V | eBay
That should work. I would power it from 24VDC and use a step up transformer with 12V secondaries connected to each of the amp outputs. Make the connections as in the 2nd example in this post:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/anal...-diy-turntable-motor-drive-5.html#post4967916.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/anal...-diy-turntable-motor-drive-5.html#post4967916.
Just received the boards and case yesterday. Hopefully I can get started on the assembly tomorrow. I'm curious to see if this will remove the last bit of vibration from a 24 volt Rega Premotec motor.
Even with the Falcon PSU powering it, I'm not convinced the board mounted phase capacitor is doing a very good job providing a 90 degree out of phase signal to the motor. I've done everything I can to tune out all the vibration but there is still a whine it transmits through the plinth. Let's see if this fixes it.
Even with the Falcon PSU powering it, I'm not convinced the board mounted phase capacitor is doing a very good job providing a 90 degree out of phase signal to the motor. I've done everything I can to tune out all the vibration but there is still a whine it transmits through the plinth. Let's see if this fixes it.
I built a deck with aftermarket rega parts and used the upgraded Rega motor and the PSU.
Kind of surprised on how they talk about how much the 24 volt motor is "improved" from anything else.
Would not use it again, way to much noise.
A standard Premotec with a phase cap running right out of the wall is better
Kind of surprised on how they talk about how much the 24 volt motor is "improved" from anything else.
Would not use it again, way to much noise.
A standard Premotec with a phase cap running right out of the wall is better
I have the motor from a Rega RP1 I was going to test. I forget the exact model number but it runs on 120 volts. I want to get the one and only Premotec motor sold by Newark for testing as well.
That's not the first time I've heard the 120 volt models are quieter than the 24 volt "upgrade" motors Rega sells.
That's not the first time I've heard the 120 volt models are quieter than the 24 volt "upgrade" motors Rega sells.
Reworking the motor cavity since I have the day off. Two layers of Ultraperm 80 and four layers of copper foil still left noticeable hum pickup as the tonearm moved closer to the spindle. Even a 20 guage sheet of steel laid over top of the everything else didn't do the trick. I'm running out of options left to try to get rid of that last bit of hum that's driving me nuts. It's a Rega 24 volt motor and ATPTG/II MC cartridge. Even with an AT150MLX MM cartridge it was still present. Grounding it to AC ground or any of the equipment chassis did nothing.
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The grounds are fine. Rega turntables are known for their motors putting out electrical interference that gets picked up as the arm gets closer to the motor. MC cartridges and adding 20dB of extra gain to the mix make it more noticeable. I listen through headphones so I hear everything and it's distracting.
I'm working on building a copper box to fully encase the motor to see if that helps. I may get around to shielding the wires and cartridge clips to see what happens.
I'm working on building a copper box to fully encase the motor to see if that helps. I may get around to shielding the wires and cartridge clips to see what happens.
I am aware that this is an issue with some Regas.
Every post I have read that resolved the issue was related to grounding one way or another, that is why I mentioned it.
Glad mine is good and hope you figure something out
Every post I read involved some type of shielding to fix this mess. Ground issues are obvious. The noise is crazy loud when the grounding clip is removed from the post on the MC headamp. This is lower level than that due to magnetic flux and other nasties coming from the motor. The volume increasing as the arm gets closer to the motor. I want this gone.
Hi Jim and Ralph,
Would there be a problem feeding a 3-phase set of amps and output toroids, from two seperate SG4s. As I said previosly I have two TD-124s with Papst motors, and by optimising settings on a SG4 per motor would simplify things a bit. I can layout some PCBs to do the switching (with low signal relays) between the two SG4s and do the same with high current relays, after the output toroids, to two seperate cable sockets - one to each TD-124. The control box will have a dedicated PSU (12V) feeding the SG4 and this can power the relays too. The class-D amps will have an independent PSU.
Your advice will be appreciated.
Regards, Kevin
Would there be a problem feeding a 3-phase set of amps and output toroids, from two seperate SG4s. As I said previosly I have two TD-124s with Papst motors, and by optimising settings on a SG4 per motor would simplify things a bit. I can layout some PCBs to do the switching (with low signal relays) between the two SG4s and do the same with high current relays, after the output toroids, to two seperate cable sockets - one to each TD-124. The control box will have a dedicated PSU (12V) feeding the SG4 and this can power the relays too. The class-D amps will have an independent PSU.
Your advice will be appreciated.
Regards, Kevin
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