Spare Boards Anyone?
Hello all,
I'm in the process of resurrecting a diy turntable I built years ago (ala Terres)... I want to build this project to drive the TT... Does anyone have any spare SG4 boards they are willing to sell? (seems wasteful to buy 3 boards if I don't have to. I have enough spare boards for other projects that have sat for years)
I have a surplus of 24VDC/5A power supply bricks that I can offer in trade if that provides any incentive. (To be used for the power amp portion)
If this request/offer is better placed on the Power Amp portion of this project I can move it there.
Thanks so much,
Steve
Hello all,
I'm in the process of resurrecting a diy turntable I built years ago (ala Terres)... I want to build this project to drive the TT... Does anyone have any spare SG4 boards they are willing to sell? (seems wasteful to buy 3 boards if I don't have to. I have enough spare boards for other projects that have sat for years)
I have a surplus of 24VDC/5A power supply bricks that I can offer in trade if that provides any incentive. (To be used for the power amp portion)
If this request/offer is better placed on the Power Amp portion of this project I can move it there.
Thanks so much,
Steve
Steve:
I'm considering this project and would be willing to go in with you on an SG4 board. I'm also interested in a through-hole version of the rotary encoder board as well. Would you be interested in sponsoring a super-mini group buy?
Feel free to PM me.
Regards,
Scott
Finally got all the transformers for my build, but still waiting for the amps and encoders from China. South African C&E saw fit to return my stuff to the suppliers. Xxxx knows why!! I can at least finish the assembly of my SG4 boards and test them so long.
Kevin
Kevin
This thing is pretty amazing for the money involved.
Ran it last night for a few hours and had the Roadrunner checking speed.
Once it was dialed in, it would float slightly by a few digits in the thousands display.
And I built it with my own little hands, a few swear words and updated seeing aids.
Thanks, Pyramid, hats off to you sir
Greg
Ran it last night for a few hours and had the Roadrunner checking speed.
Once it was dialed in, it would float slightly by a few digits in the thousands display.
And I built it with my own little hands, a few swear words and updated seeing aids.
Thanks, Pyramid, hats off to you sir
Greg
Folks:
I'm ordering parts for this fantastic project (again, kudos to Pyramid!) and have a dumb question: like many of you, I'll need a cable to connect a remotely-mounted display to the SG-4 board. I saw ilardi's post (#134) and understand that one option is to make a suitable cable, but I'd prefer to buy one if it is readily available. I'm new at this. Can someone point me in the right direction?
Regards,
Scott
I'm ordering parts for this fantastic project (again, kudos to Pyramid!) and have a dumb question: like many of you, I'll need a cable to connect a remotely-mounted display to the SG-4 board. I saw ilardi's post (#134) and understand that one option is to make a suitable cable, but I'd prefer to buy one if it is readily available. I'm new at this. Can someone point me in the right direction?
Regards,
Scott
The socket from Digikey is PN ED3016-ND qty 2.
The cable from Digikey is PN H8PPH-1618G-ND.
The socket is fairly generic and can be found almost anywhere. The cable is also common, just be sure the IDC connectors on reversed (pointing in opposite directions) on each end.
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The cable from Digikey is PN H8PPH-1618G-ND.
The socket is fairly generic and can be found almost anywhere. The cable is also common, just be sure the IDC connectors on reversed (pointing in opposite directions) on each end.
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Take a look at how I did it here:Here.
Any 16 conductor ribbon cable will work with 16 pin dual-in-line IDC connectors on the ends, but pointing in opposite directions. Pin 1 on the PCB socket must match up with pin 1 on the LED display and the only way I was able to make that happen was to mount one socket on the back side of the PCB, solder another socket onto the display and the cable MUST have the connectors on opposite sides of the ribbon cable as shown in pic #7.
Digikey has cables in 6" lengths:https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/assmann-wsw-components/H8PPS-1606M/H8PPS-1606M-ND/1000107
and 18" lengths:https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/assmann-wsw-components/H8PPS-1618M/H8PPS-1618M-ND/1000111
After I posted I remembered that I had received an email saying the cable was superseded, as usual Pyramid is on top of things
I have 2 encoder boards available if anyone is interested. They have the 4013 IC and 0.47uFd caps already installed. PM me with your mailing address.
Greetings all. I need some guidance on the amplifier and transformer aspect of this project and whether or not I will need to build more than one iteration. I have several turntables/projects I would like to try it with. They are:
Rek O Kut B12H - with Ashland single phase 115 volt, 0.2 amp motor- so 23 watt?
Dual 1019 - 4 pole, single phase, induction, 6.5 watt motor
VPI HW19 - with Hurst PB 5.5 watt AC sync motor
VPI single motor flywheel unit for DIY table - with Hurst PA 7.5 watt AC sync motor
I recently purchased a used Falcon/Roadrunner, but it seems it will only work with the Hurst PB motor due to the other motors having higher ratings than it was intended for. I've always just lived with the Hurst motors even though I felt they were noisy. I'm looking for alternatives to them.
In the mean time, I've ordered the SG4 and Encoder boards from Osh Park. I've received the pre-programmed chips from Twysted...BTW, thanks for getting them out so quickly! I've also ordered a batch of the encoder rotary switches off of eBay and have the cables and sockets on hand to remote mount the display.
I have a basket ready at Mouser with all the components I'll need for the SG4 and encoder. The only missing part of the puzzle is the amps and transformers. I'd like to add a solution for the transformers to the basket at Mouser if possible.
I've read about the LM3886 and TDA7492 amps and the associated power supplies and transformers. It seems like the TDA7492 is a simpler approach that creates more power and less heat with the 24volt wall supply and the Amgis L01-6362 (Of course, I blew the opportunity of having the torroid in my order from Digi-Key.).
I'd like to know that if I build with the TDA7492 solution that it will serve all my purposes. I saw that it was running a 19W Lenco motor in the amp thread. I believe a pot was required to reduce the output voltage of the SG4 to drive it to 120V properly? I think it was also mentioned that this solution should be good for up to 25W, but to make sure your power supply and transformer were rated properly.
I need to understand the relationship between my different motors wattage requirements and how I will make sure I am regulating the output from the SG4/Amp/Transformer to deliver a correct supply to them.
Would the pot after the SG4 in the TDA7492 solution simply be a one fits all for me because all my motors operate on single phase 115V and so it reduces the output of the SG4 to regulate the voltage to what is needed by the motors?...is it also regulating the current output of the amp by reducing its input signal?
I apologize if this seems like a dense question, I'm not an electrical engineer and after reading so much about various motors, amps and transformers it has become confusing to me.
My gut tells me that once the output of the SG4 is regulated to drive the amp to a proper level, it in turn drives the transformer to create the correct voltage level on its primary and everything is golden. I'm assuming that as long as the different components in the system are rated properly to supply up to 25W motors that it can just as easily be used with motors requiring less and will allow for "headroom"?
Rek O Kut B12H - with Ashland single phase 115 volt, 0.2 amp motor- so 23 watt?
Dual 1019 - 4 pole, single phase, induction, 6.5 watt motor
VPI HW19 - with Hurst PB 5.5 watt AC sync motor
VPI single motor flywheel unit for DIY table - with Hurst PA 7.5 watt AC sync motor
I recently purchased a used Falcon/Roadrunner, but it seems it will only work with the Hurst PB motor due to the other motors having higher ratings than it was intended for. I've always just lived with the Hurst motors even though I felt they were noisy. I'm looking for alternatives to them.
In the mean time, I've ordered the SG4 and Encoder boards from Osh Park. I've received the pre-programmed chips from Twysted...BTW, thanks for getting them out so quickly! I've also ordered a batch of the encoder rotary switches off of eBay and have the cables and sockets on hand to remote mount the display.
I have a basket ready at Mouser with all the components I'll need for the SG4 and encoder. The only missing part of the puzzle is the amps and transformers. I'd like to add a solution for the transformers to the basket at Mouser if possible.
I've read about the LM3886 and TDA7492 amps and the associated power supplies and transformers. It seems like the TDA7492 is a simpler approach that creates more power and less heat with the 24volt wall supply and the Amgis L01-6362 (Of course, I blew the opportunity of having the torroid in my order from Digi-Key.).
I'd like to know that if I build with the TDA7492 solution that it will serve all my purposes. I saw that it was running a 19W Lenco motor in the amp thread. I believe a pot was required to reduce the output voltage of the SG4 to drive it to 120V properly? I think it was also mentioned that this solution should be good for up to 25W, but to make sure your power supply and transformer were rated properly.
I need to understand the relationship between my different motors wattage requirements and how I will make sure I am regulating the output from the SG4/Amp/Transformer to deliver a correct supply to them.
Would the pot after the SG4 in the TDA7492 solution simply be a one fits all for me because all my motors operate on single phase 115V and so it reduces the output of the SG4 to regulate the voltage to what is needed by the motors?...is it also regulating the current output of the amp by reducing its input signal?
I apologize if this seems like a dense question, I'm not an electrical engineer and after reading so much about various motors, amps and transformers it has become confusing to me.
My gut tells me that once the output of the SG4 is regulated to drive the amp to a proper level, it in turn drives the transformer to create the correct voltage level on its primary and everything is golden. I'm assuming that as long as the different components in the system are rated properly to supply up to 25W motors that it can just as easily be used with motors requiring less and will allow for "headroom"?
For the most part, this is accurate. The output voltage of the transformer will be lower when a load is placed on it than it is with no load. 3 of your tables are fairly close in power so they will have roughly the same effect. The output voltage may drop a bit more with the Rek-O-Kut as it presents more of a load.
With the 25W Amgis xfmr, you could expect to see 120VAC with no load, ~117VAC with 5-7W and ~108VAC with 20W loads.
Folks:
A dumb but crucial question: can someone confirm that the SG-4 is suitable for use with the Hurst 3001-001 (115V, 3W) motor (http://www.alliedelec.com/hurst-3001-001/70259512/)?
Another dumb question: is this a single phase motor?
Regards,
Scott
A dumb but crucial question: can someone confirm that the SG-4 is suitable for use with the Hurst 3001-001 (115V, 3W) motor (http://www.alliedelec.com/hurst-3001-001/70259512/)?
Another dumb question: is this a single phase motor?
Regards,
Scott
Yes, the SG4 could drive the Hurst 3001-001 with a suitable amplifier and step up xfmr between the SG4 and the motor.
The motor is an AC synch motor. You could drive it directly with the 0° and 90° outputs of the SG4 (and 2 amps/xfmrs), or with just the 0° output and a phase cap to the second winding of the motor (it most likely comes with the phase cap or you can find the correct value on the Hurst website).
I believe the motor shaft is 0.125".
The motor is an AC synch motor. You could drive it directly with the 0° and 90° outputs of the SG4 (and 2 amps/xfmrs), or with just the 0° output and a phase cap to the second winding of the motor (it most likely comes with the phase cap or you can find the correct value on the Hurst website).
I believe the motor shaft is 0.125".
The expected voltage at the transformer output for the lower power motors seems appropriate.
Is the reduced voltage at the transformer output due to the heavier load of the large motor addressed by increasing the voltage presented to the amplifier with the potentiometer?...or do I need to consider a different amp/transformer or combination for use with it?
Also, I'd like to be able to run one AC cable into the case I'm building for this project and have the power supplies feed off it inside the case as neatly as possible.
I was planning on substituting this as a power supply for the SG4:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=IRM-03-12virtualkey63430000virtualkey709-IRM03-12
Also this to power the TDA7492 amp:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=IRM-60-24STvirtualkey63430000virtualkey709-IRM60-24ST
Both appear to meet the specs of the power supplies you suggested and cost slightly less. Do you see any issue using them?
I am struggling to find a substitute transformer for the Amgis at Mouser as they do not sell that brand/model.