PO89ZB , an inline DC filter for SMPS wall warts . Preamps, HPA, Korg NuTube, etc

Mark.. I didn't say that 0.004 equal 4%...

Assuming the total DC R of the filter is 0.1R, which it is likely to be without connections or so

i current through the filter, feeding whatever device you plug it into

Alice = Vin

Bob = Vin-Vout

Bob/Alice = (Vin-Vout)/Vin = 1- Vout/Vin = Ri / Vin = 0.1 x i / Vin = Carol



Carol < 0.004 => Small Carol, 2 filters will work
means

0.1 x i / Vin < 0.004


i <0.04 Vin


Hence i < 4% Vin
 
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Welcome to the Big Boy world where these kinds of things happen a lot. Luckily you've got (a) the search engine at octopart.com ; (b) two other part numbers you can look up ; (c) the required capacitance, voltage, lead spacing, diameter, length, and ESR ... so you can evaluate whether substitutes you find online, are acceptable.
 
Mark went the trouble to define exactly his filter, with given components that are well chosen and proven. That doesn't mean others won't work, but the result might not be the same.

I experimented with a similar filters and bigger caps, hoping it would work even better (lower Fc, lower ESR etc), but not really. Worked, but the real Mc Coy is just that. By Mark.

Claude

I cleaned out parts express a few weeks ago to use them to supply the kits I'm putting together for the store. No one else seems to actually carry the Kemets right right now - a quick look at octopart will show you this. Sorry about that, but the good news is that in the meantime really look for Low ESR caps that fit the spec of the board - meaning lead spacing and length. After consulting with Mark the caps for the kit, he recommended the Kemets in the original BOM as they consistently measure out well as do the Panasonic FM/FR series (which apparently are the same thing under the sleeve so you can use either). The top pick is still the Nichicon 647-UHW1H471MPD. I have some of all 3 of these, and will be doing some tests when I get the run of boards I had fabbed, which should be in this week. I'll post my results shortly.

--Tom
 
Mark went the trouble to define exactly his filter, with given components that are well chosen and proven. That doesn't mean others won't work, but the result might not be the same.

I experimented with a similar filters and bigger caps, hoping it would work even better (lower Fc, lower ESR etc), but not really. Worked, but the real Mc Coy is just that. By Mark.

Claude

I cleaned out parts express a few weeks ago to use them to supply the kits I'm putting together for the store. No one else seems to actually carry the Kemets right right now - a quick look at octopart will show you this. Sorry about that, but the good news is that in the meantime really look for Low ESR caps that fit the spec of the board - meaning lead spacing and length. After consulting with Mark the caps for the kit, he recommended the Kemets in the original BOM as they consistently measure out well as do the Panasonic FM/FR series (which apparently are the same thing under the sleeve so you can use either). The top pick is still the Nichicon 647-UHW1H471MPD. I have some of all 3 of these, and will be doing some tests when I get the run of boards I had fabbed, which should be in this week. I'll post my results shortly.

--Tom

Correction, that was digikey above not parts-express.

--Tom
 
ResisterClone
Joined 2011
Paid Member
Another 24vdc 5a supply with PO89ZB!!
 

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Member
Joined 2011
Paid Member
Another 24vdc 5a supply with PO89ZB!!

The circuit board and the Parts List components of PO89ZB are designed for a maximum of 3 amperes DC current. There is silkscreen text on the top surface of the board which warns you: 48V MAX 3A MAX .

Don't put more than 3 amperes through a PO89ZB, it simply isn't safe.


_
 

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Great little board. I've used a few of them in various projects like the Whammy. Note that making them yourself on a breadboard is not too difficult, just check out the schematic and you'll see. Its a pot, resistor, diode and small cap used to limit the current to the LED (which also controls its brightness) and also a cap to keep the voltage steady so it doesn't flicker.

--Tom
 
Great little board. I've used a few of them in various projects like the Whammy. Note that making them yourself on a breadboard is not too difficult, just check out the schematic and you'll see. Its a pot, resistor, diode and small cap used to limit the current to the LED (which also controls its brightness) and also a cap to keep the voltage steady so it doesn't flicker.

--Tom

Try PMing @Gaz2613

--Tom