As trivial as this may sound: make sure to draw the exact points for the standoffs (after drilling the PCB) in the bottom of the casing instead of soldering the PCB first 🙂
Moderation Note... please see post #407 for revised Gerber Files. SMPS Inline Filter with M3 holes
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Another option can be: solder some standoffs onto the GND connections of the pcb. Solder those standoffs to another laminated peace of pcb that can be mounted easily on the chassis. For example I use this method to mount an Arduino Nano inside a case.
Carsten.Witt -- please change the PCB-ID. Although that is a very nice board, it is a (slightly) different board and needs a different ID, to avoid confusion.
Perhaps YGL92S-A, for example?
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Perhaps YGL92S-A, for example?
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If I want to put one in the B1Korg Chassis, should it be before or after the power switch ?
Or does it even matter ?
Or does it even matter ?
It doesn't really matter but somewhere it could make more sense after the swicth closest to the B1 Korg IMHO. That's what I did - filters everything down to the unit.
The problem with the power switch at least on my unit (no kit) is that it commands the SMPS current output. But the wallwart SMPS remains in the plug all the time, so remains ON all the time I guess. That is unless it has a load sensing device that switches it off, which I doubt, but no clue (?)
Bottom line: for the filter this is all irrelevant, but the power switch we use is in fact not exactly an On / Off switch as on most units due to the external PS, as the SMPS remains probably on all the time. IMHO the switch only isolates the B1K from the SMPS... which is likely to run permanently.
Glad to be proven wrong though!
Claude
The problem with the power switch at least on my unit (no kit) is that it commands the SMPS current output. But the wallwart SMPS remains in the plug all the time, so remains ON all the time I guess. That is unless it has a load sensing device that switches it off, which I doubt, but no clue (?)
Bottom line: for the filter this is all irrelevant, but the power switch we use is in fact not exactly an On / Off switch as on most units due to the external PS, as the SMPS remains probably on all the time. IMHO the switch only isolates the B1K from the SMPS... which is likely to run permanently.
Glad to be proven wrong though!
Claude
The safest and technically optimal solution would be to switch the mains side. Switching DC is not advisable for the common type switches.
Not wanting to scare but I have seen laptop chargers (Dell), no name wall warts etc. that had melted when they failed therefor only true mains switches in my household. That way one is sure nothing can happen when equipment is left unattended. Last item that went up in smoke quite seriously was a 2 weeks old PS4 that caused a fire which made that the house had to be renovated. That person now also uses switched distributors.
Korg Nutube have a limited lifespan of 30,000 hours and leaving them on 24/7 is a choice. Consider the usage time/power on hours to determine if it is worth it.
FAQ | Nutube – English
Not wanting to scare but I have seen laptop chargers (Dell), no name wall warts etc. that had melted when they failed therefor only true mains switches in my household. That way one is sure nothing can happen when equipment is left unattended. Last item that went up in smoke quite seriously was a 2 weeks old PS4 that caused a fire which made that the house had to be renovated. That person now also uses switched distributors.
Korg Nutube have a limited lifespan of 30,000 hours and leaving them on 24/7 is a choice. Consider the usage time/power on hours to determine if it is worth it.
FAQ | Nutube – English
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I am entrely with you Jean-Paul!
And hence I was looking for a solution to remove the switch (or add a switch worst case) at the main's side.
I don't want to have the SMPS running permanently although I must confess I had (touch wood) no bad experience... but after a few years SMPS just go (linear is far more durable) and the Korg tube with its short lifespan would glow during hours for nothing while I am away, working LOL
Claude
And hence I was looking for a solution to remove the switch (or add a switch worst case) at the main's side.
I don't want to have the SMPS running permanently although I must confess I had (touch wood) no bad experience... but after a few years SMPS just go (linear is far more durable) and the Korg tube with its short lifespan would glow during hours for nothing while I am away, working LOL
Claude
I try to turn off at the B1K. I’ve never had an issue with a SMPS and don’t turn them off. I leave the rest of my diy Pass gear on 23/7. Didn’t NP say it warms up sufficiently in a minute or so in the article?
Consider this a remark like saying you fancy your mother in law 🙂 so prepare for some flak.
The consensus is that SMPS are the best thing in life and they're optimal for audio. Friend or foe of these marvels of technology will both know that switching DC is not one of the brightest of ideas though.
Since I absolutely hate short living unreliable cheap consumer stuff but still want to be able to disconnect all my stuff from mains at once when I leave my home I made a small solution myself. Today I brought my Netzverteiler (please pronounce that 🙂) to the powder coater for some RAL7016. It switches 230V AC mains and filters 3 groups. German made Schüko connectors, Austrian made mains switch by Naim & Krauser, fused, shielded, PE, industrial rubber feet, the works. A 230V AC LED glows faintly red when switched off so I can find it when the room is scarcely lit. When switched on there is no disturbing LED. Just an example of how it also can be done. More work than plugging in and leaving a wall wart 24/7 for sure.
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SuppersReady kindly sent me 4 PCBs.... thank you very much.
I will be using 2 and the other 2 are available for builders in Australia. I will cover the postage and just PM me if you want one or both.
I will be using 2 and the other 2 are available for builders in Australia. I will cover the postage and just PM me if you want one or both.
Thanks Jean-Paul... and LOL for the mother in law!
I am considering similar for my coming projects... on all the time, but when on vacations better off and (the only) SMPS probably off when not needed.
Out of curiosity, do you have a schematic (that LED bit is indeed very clever!) to see also what kind of Netzfilter you went for?
I use since decades the old Konrad Kit in front of each unit (good for 1300W), but it is perhaps time to reconsider things and, given your very serious application and should you be willing to share, I am more than willing to be enlighted 🙂
I am drawing the plans for my house, with a proper and solely dedicated listening room again (after 6y without), so it is also time for me to reconsider all my HIFI installation from scratch... why not starting at the mains 🙂
Have a nice day!
Claude
Netzfilter, Steckdose und Netzverteiler... pah, easy to pronounce, grew up in Germany 🙂
I am considering similar for my coming projects... on all the time, but when on vacations better off and (the only) SMPS probably off when not needed.
Out of curiosity, do you have a schematic (that LED bit is indeed very clever!) to see also what kind of Netzfilter you went for?
I use since decades the old Konrad Kit in front of each unit (good for 1300W), but it is perhaps time to reconsider things and, given your very serious application and should you be willing to share, I am more than willing to be enlighted 🙂
I am drawing the plans for my house, with a proper and solely dedicated listening room again (after 6y without), so it is also time for me to reconsider all my HIFI installation from scratch... why not starting at the mains 🙂
Have a nice day!
Claude
Netzfilter, Steckdose und Netzverteiler... pah, easy to pronounce, grew up in Germany 🙂
ClaudeG,
What is this Konrad Kit that you mentioned? I tried a few web searches but nothing useful came up.
What is this Konrad Kit that you mentioned? I tried a few web searches but nothing useful came up.