As i'm building a 2.1, I have one question:
Have anyone measured or calculated how much a bridged channel can output into 4Ohm, I'm assuming it can, and that it's more then just the 50W each channel can output?
I'm having a hard time imagining finding a small sub driver that runs in 2Ohm to utilize the proclaimed 100W.
I'm considering either a single:
Tang Band W6-1139SIF 6-1/2" Paper Cone Subwoofer Speaker
or
Dayton Audio DCS165-4 6-1/2" Classic Subwoofer 4 Ohm
but both are 4Ohm, so i'm only curious what my strategy should be.
Have anyone measured or calculated how much a bridged channel can output into 4Ohm, I'm assuming it can, and that it's more then just the 50W each channel can output?
I'm having a hard time imagining finding a small sub driver that runs in 2Ohm to utilize the proclaimed 100W.
I'm considering either a single:
Tang Band W6-1139SIF 6-1/2" Paper Cone Subwoofer Speaker
or
Dayton Audio DCS165-4 6-1/2" Classic Subwoofer 4 Ohm
but both are 4Ohm, so i'm only curious what my strategy should be.
No I don't recomend this amp.
There is big problem with the sound.
I worked with Cubase and an bas in VST instrument that ending very strange and couldn't filter that away whatever I did.
When I tried everything I changed amp and the strange ending sound wasn't there.
Allo Volt+
Ta3020
Headphones in mobile.
Sounded just right.
I had several support messages and sent him a file with the bas example
but he cant fix it.
To bad I realy like the EQ but cant live with that bad implentation.
You can listen to this with Zoudio and the listen with another amp.
As long as this link is active, I don't know.
Gofile
There is big problem with the sound.
I worked with Cubase and an bas in VST instrument that ending very strange and couldn't filter that away whatever I did.
When I tried everything I changed amp and the strange ending sound wasn't there.
Allo Volt+
Ta3020
Headphones in mobile.
Sounded just right.
I had several support messages and sent him a file with the bas example
but he cant fix it.
To bad I realy like the EQ but cant live with that bad implentation.
You can listen to this with Zoudio and the listen with another amp.
As long as this link is active, I don't know.
Gofile
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@kaptajnThomsen
The channels are already bridged. If you combine them, you put them in parallel. This means you can get double the output on 2 ohm. For 4 ohm the output stays the same, but with a better thermal profile because the load gets distributed over 2 channels.
@Solve,
Sad to hear.
Like we discussed via email, I will arrange a full refund.
I have not had similar complaints from other customers.
When I receive your boards I will look for possible problems.
The channels are already bridged. If you combine them, you put them in parallel. This means you can get double the output on 2 ohm. For 4 ohm the output stays the same, but with a better thermal profile because the load gets distributed over 2 channels.
@Solve,
Sad to hear.
Like we discussed via email, I will arrange a full refund.
I have not had similar complaints from other customers.
When I receive your boards I will look for possible problems.
@lutkeveld: thanks for the clarification, I am still slightly confused what channel goes where exactly in a 2.1 configuration. My best guess is two channel who are normally bridged gets un-bridged and two channels remains bridged?
Am i right in assuming that the only scenario where using the 2.1 configuration is viable with a single subwoofer driver is by using a dual 4 Ohm voice coil wired in series to get 2 Ohm? like this one: Dayton Audio RSS265HO-44 10" Reference HO DVC Subwoofer (this example would of course be vastly underpowered), or this one: Visaton GF 200 8" DVC Woofer 4 Ohm .
There doesnt seem to be that many viable options with these specs.
If you should suggest using 2 separate 4Ohm drivers wired serial in in the same subwoofer enclosure I'd argue it would make more sense to make 2 separate sub enclosures, one for each driver and then just run the 4 channels separate w/crossover, amirite?
Am i right in assuming that the only scenario where using the 2.1 configuration is viable with a single subwoofer driver is by using a dual 4 Ohm voice coil wired in series to get 2 Ohm? like this one: Dayton Audio RSS265HO-44 10" Reference HO DVC Subwoofer (this example would of course be vastly underpowered), or this one: Visaton GF 200 8" DVC Woofer 4 Ohm .
There doesnt seem to be that many viable options with these specs.
If you should suggest using 2 separate 4Ohm drivers wired serial in in the same subwoofer enclosure I'd argue it would make more sense to make 2 separate sub enclosures, one for each driver and then just run the 4 channels separate w/crossover, amirite?
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Hi, started integrating amp and it's been great to work with. Harnesses are fantastic. A few suggestions though.... 😀
*Programmer on board
I can see you buy the current programmer. It currently is awkward to package, more connections to go wrong and a bit ugly solution.
Would be much better to build on board with some more efficient routing (I see those long long traces!), and also please put headers, so a USB motherboard connector can be added as with miniDSP.
*Option for higher power levels on an amplifier (boost up to 36/48v). As mentioned earlier in thread, it is not always easy to match the amp to drivers for maximum output. Especially if you want a 2.1 setup. Maybe a different SKU. I appreciate this is quite a different product..
*Ditch the USB cable, no need for extra E-waste in the world
*BT5.0 at some point
*Psychoacoustic bass synthesis
*Level 2 harness kit: (optional extra +EUR)
Switches on EQ & TWS harness
USB motherboard connector
Small powder coated / anodised & silkscreened aluminium connection plate. Would save a ton of time for some builders, also would be easy to run a profit and be a neat place to put a logo..
*Programmer on board
I can see you buy the current programmer. It currently is awkward to package, more connections to go wrong and a bit ugly solution.
Would be much better to build on board with some more efficient routing (I see those long long traces!), and also please put headers, so a USB motherboard connector can be added as with miniDSP.
*Option for higher power levels on an amplifier (boost up to 36/48v). As mentioned earlier in thread, it is not always easy to match the amp to drivers for maximum output. Especially if you want a 2.1 setup. Maybe a different SKU. I appreciate this is quite a different product..
*Ditch the USB cable, no need for extra E-waste in the world
*BT5.0 at some point
*Psychoacoustic bass synthesis
*Level 2 harness kit: (optional extra +EUR)
Switches on EQ & TWS harness
USB motherboard connector
Small powder coated / anodised & silkscreened aluminium connection plate. Would save a ton of time for some builders, also would be easy to run a profit and be a neat place to put a logo..
Last edited:
I am having some problems with uploading DSP file, can you help?
This is my log:
I also keep on getting this error:
Also, some more notes:
*There is a parasitic drain from programmer when connected. This is not ideal for battery systems
*At no point does it state the programmer orientation in the notes! Double header is also a bit of a pain
*EQ button settings seem to logically (to me) run in reverse
*Provided drivers do not seem to work, had to download. Labelled 64 bit complains it is not 64 bit. (Fully updated Win7)
*Transparent background is a bit distracting
*High volume = how high? Can you provide some information on the behaviour?
*Graph sometimes disappears when inputting data
*LED types different
Thanks!
This is my log:
CONNECTED
INPUT: OFF
UPLOAD STARTED
OUTPUT: ECHO
OUTPUT: ECHO
OUTPUT: ECHO
DISCONNECTED
OUTPUT: ECHO
OUTPUT: ECHO
OUTPUT: ECHO
OUTPUT: ECHO
OUTPUT: ECHO
OUTPUT: ECHO
OUTPUT: ECHO
OUTPUT: ECHO
NO RESPONSE, CHECK YOUR CONNECTIONS OR UPDATE THE FIRMWARE
INPUT: OFF
UPLOAD STARTED
OUTPUT: ECHO
OUTPUT: ECHO
OUTPUT: ECHO
DISCONNECTED
OUTPUT: ECHO
OUTPUT: ECHO
OUTPUT: ECHO
OUTPUT: ECHO
OUTPUT: ECHO
OUTPUT: ECHO
OUTPUT: ECHO
OUTPUT: ECHO
NO RESPONSE, CHECK YOUR CONNECTIONS OR UPDATE THE FIRMWARE
I also keep on getting this error:
PROGRAMMER IS BEING USED, PLEASE RECONNECT
Also, some more notes:
*There is a parasitic drain from programmer when connected. This is not ideal for battery systems
*At no point does it state the programmer orientation in the notes! Double header is also a bit of a pain
*EQ button settings seem to logically (to me) run in reverse
*Provided drivers do not seem to work, had to download. Labelled 64 bit complains it is not 64 bit. (Fully updated Win7)
*Transparent background is a bit distracting
*High volume = how high? Can you provide some information on the behaviour?
*Graph sometimes disappears when inputting data
*LED types different
Thanks!
@kaptajn
You run it with one of the amps in single channel mode so you have 3 channels in total. You can use a 4 ohm sub no problem, you just will not get the whole 100W, which might not be a problem.
2 ohm can either be 2x 4 ohm seperate, a parallel wired DVC 4 ohm sub or an actual 2 ohm sub.
@zerokelvin
I will add a clear diagram to the datasheet soon on how to plug in the programmer. Have you seen the video tutorial? YouTube
If you still need help you can send me an email at info@zoudio.com
There are two main reason why I did not go with an on-board programmer:
-The programmer circuit has to be on every board, which is unnecessary for preprogrammed boards and OEM orders.
-To allow the option for either a wired or wireless (to be released) programmer
The second point is also why backpowering is allowed. I dont know if I would make this trade-off again if starting from scratch. It has its pro's, but its not as intuitive as it could be.
The USB drivers of the older Windows version indeed seem to be switched around, ill fix that soon.
What do you mean with EQ button in reverse?
The background is not transparent in Windows 10? Maybe something W7 related, do you have a screenshot?
Low volume is <-30dB, high volume is >-10dB. Between these two tresholds the dynamic EQ is gradually mixed from low to high.
Graph data or the graph completely? The data is visible or not based on the checkboxes, but that is not what you are referring to I think?
What do you mean with LED types different?
Aluminium plate (plate amp conversion kit) will be released soon.
I am looking at 5.0 modules, which will inevitibely be implemented in the future, but the difference is not that big for audio.
You run it with one of the amps in single channel mode so you have 3 channels in total. You can use a 4 ohm sub no problem, you just will not get the whole 100W, which might not be a problem.
2 ohm can either be 2x 4 ohm seperate, a parallel wired DVC 4 ohm sub or an actual 2 ohm sub.
@zerokelvin
I will add a clear diagram to the datasheet soon on how to plug in the programmer. Have you seen the video tutorial? YouTube
If you still need help you can send me an email at info@zoudio.com
There are two main reason why I did not go with an on-board programmer:
-The programmer circuit has to be on every board, which is unnecessary for preprogrammed boards and OEM orders.
-To allow the option for either a wired or wireless (to be released) programmer
The second point is also why backpowering is allowed. I dont know if I would make this trade-off again if starting from scratch. It has its pro's, but its not as intuitive as it could be.
The USB drivers of the older Windows version indeed seem to be switched around, ill fix that soon.
What do you mean with EQ button in reverse?
The background is not transparent in Windows 10? Maybe something W7 related, do you have a screenshot?
Low volume is <-30dB, high volume is >-10dB. Between these two tresholds the dynamic EQ is gradually mixed from low to high.
Graph data or the graph completely? The data is visible or not based on the checkboxes, but that is not what you are referring to I think?
What do you mean with LED types different?
Aluminium plate (plate amp conversion kit) will be released soon.
I am looking at 5.0 modules, which will inevitibely be implemented in the future, but the difference is not that big for audio.
@kaptajn
You run it with one of the amps in single channel mode so you have 3 channels in total. You can use a 4 ohm sub no problem, you just will not get the whole 100W, which might not be a problem.
2 ohm can either be 2x 4 ohm seperate, a parallel wired DVC 4 ohm sub or an actual 2 ohm sub.
@zerokelvin
I will add a clear diagram to the datasheet soon on how to plug in the programmer. Have you seen the video tutorial? YouTube
If you still need help you can send me an email at info@zoudio.com
All sorted now, the magic combination of plugging and unplugging worked! Was not aware of the youtube video
There are two main reason why I did not go with an on-board programmer:
-The programmer circuit has to be on every board, which is unnecessary for preprogrammed boards and OEM orders.
-To allow the option for either a wired or wireless (to be released) programmer
The second point is also why backpowering is allowed. I dont know if I would make this trade-off again if starting from scratch. It has its pro's, but its not as intuitive as it could be.
Makes sense, I see your reasoning. Perhaps I would have gone the other route. I'll do some current measuring this weekend and look at the impact
The USB drivers of the older Windows version indeed seem to be switched around, ill fix that soon.
🙂
What do you mean with EQ button in reverse?
After fiddling with the settings, it seems I had gotten myself in a muddle with low and high volume DEQ, please disregard!
The background is not transparent in Windows 10? Maybe something W7 related, do you have a screenshot?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Low volume is <-30dB, high volume is >-10dB. Between these two tresholds the dynamic EQ is gradually mixed from low to high.
Okay, I'll play with by ear and see if I can tune it that way.
Graph data or the graph completely? The data is visible or not based on the checkboxes, but that is not what you are referring to I think?
The data, as in the lines on the graph just .. Disappear! Another thing, a prompt to save on exit may appreciated
What do you mean with LED types different?
One is frosted, the other is shiny.. You notice it looking straight on, and the light pattern that they emit. No biggie but not the most coherent look
Aluminium plate (plate amp conversion kit) will be released soon.
Great!
I am looking at 5.0 modules, which will inevitibely be implemented in the future, but the difference is not that big for audio.
As I understand, the difference is minor. But, range is slightly improved - and marketing always helps..
Just yesterday I connected my Fluke 123 scope (battery powered floating, 20MHz bandwidth) to the DC input terminals, while playing the amp pretty loudly. Powered by the Acme linear regulated 24V psu I bought off ebay.
Nothing - no perturbations at all. Just a steady 25mV p-p ripple and noise, which the scope said was 5mV RMS. I was about to believe I didnt have a electrical connection at all, but had to switch the channel coupling to AC, to get the trace back on the screen upon connection...
One less thing to worry about - that psu just shrugged off whatever current this amp was demanding. At least that which resulted in anything I could see at 50mV / div - and happening in time with the music.
Nothing - no perturbations at all. Just a steady 25mV p-p ripple and noise, which the scope said was 5mV RMS. I was about to believe I didnt have a electrical connection at all, but had to switch the channel coupling to AC, to get the trace back on the screen upon connection...
One less thing to worry about - that psu just shrugged off whatever current this amp was demanding. At least that which resulted in anything I could see at 50mV / div - and happening in time with the music.
I have measured the idle current of several scenarios:
Amp only, turned off: 0.08mA (excellent)
Amp + programmer, turned off: 1.92mA (not so excellent for battery systems, <60day drain for me)
All channels on and idle: 91 mA (excellent)
@lutkeveld, can I assume that removing the +5v pin on the programmer header would remove this backpack power and only power it up when connected via USB?
Thanks,
Amp only, turned off: 0.08mA (excellent)
Amp + programmer, turned off: 1.92mA (not so excellent for battery systems, <60day drain for me)
All channels on and idle: 91 mA (excellent)
@lutkeveld, can I assume that removing the +5v pin on the programmer header would remove this backpack power and only power it up when connected via USB?
Thanks,
Trying to set up two boards for TWS, but no instructions. Could you please post how it is done? I tried connecting both via bluetooth, followed by a short on TWS on the slave, but no succes.
The system runs on 3.3V, the 5V is not connected to anything. Cutting of the 3V3 pin on the programmer would stop back-powering, but only allows your system to be programmed while a power source is connected.
Ok! Thank you
Another question.. Is it possible to change the EQ switch from acting on momentary to closed = on, open = off?
I am using a tilt switch to determine the EQ, so it results in some quite weird movements to switch correctly!
I am using a tilt switch to determine the EQ, so it results in some quite weird movements to switch correctly!
With the 3,3v and the 5v pins removed it still draws the power. I took off the 5v SMD LED, but that of course only takes off ~0.60mA.
With changes, it now takes 1.3mA as opposed to 1.9mA. Gives 50% better idle life at least!
I assume that its still managing to use the potential across the DTR/TX/RX
Mm okay. I tested it out here. Instead of 3V3 you can try to remove ground. It still seems to be able to communicate, and there is no backpowering. Bit strange, but it indeed seems to have something to do with the communication lines taking some power.
Thats great, disconnecting GND has done the trick. Is like a grandmother with only a few teeth left now 🙂
Any thoughts on the EQ switch?
Many thanks,
Any thoughts on the EQ switch?
Many thanks,
FWIW, I got a good BT connection using MX linux and the IOGear BT adapter.
W10 / iPhone not the only streaming source candidates now, from my experience. (It's great to not have to pay some big corporate "tax", just to listen to some music) I wish something like Daphile had BT enabled - Oh well...
Hopefully others will share their successful music streaming source connections to this amp.
W10 / iPhone not the only streaming source candidates now, from my experience. (It's great to not have to pay some big corporate "tax", just to listen to some music) I wish something like Daphile had BT enabled - Oh well...
Hopefully others will share their successful music streaming source connections to this amp.
I've decided to use this amp for the thing it's best at, powering a boombox-type setup.
Will drop my plan to use i2s, because it is better for me as it is. Have many other amps suited for many other uses.
Just gotta find all the parts, know they're around here somewhere.
Will drop my plan to use i2s, because it is better for me as it is. Have many other amps suited for many other uses.
Just gotta find all the parts, know they're around here somewhere.