Hmm... the F4, A2s, D70-II, A5s, F5, etc.. all sit there forlornly.
I even drove it into the Maggie 1.7s... which amazed me. Though mostly, like 99% of the time, I got it hooked up to the Audio Note AN-K/LX speakers with Entec woofers.
This is a seriously good sounding amp. Almost the amp for a Desert Island.
So good I upgraded the preamp from a CJ PV9 with teflon caps to a CJ ET3SE. The amp is definitely in the groove.
Right now I'm playing Yesca off Tidal Hifi...
.. and having a shaken vodka martini.
Thanks guys!
PS- I tell people that it's a clone SIT-3. I hate.. hmm... telling them I got a Sissy amp...
This will be my second attempt at the venerable SissySIT... Pretty sure the issue with version one was some poorly matched SITs (repeated failure of the right channel)...now ZM has these new-fangled boards for naughty parts and more options. The chassis I originally made became J2 Babelfish (WOW amp)...now I have these other ultra compact 4U monos chassis I gathered parts for and designed over 4 years ago (with 6L6 input).... so... putting them together now and making 2X SIT creatures....
Ran out of fastons...so, waiting on those....makes amp swapping a breeze.
Ran out of fastons...so, waiting on those....makes amp swapping a breeze.
Functionally manifested these. Based on the modu sinks with the goal of keeping them rack width. I'm happy to share my files (via PM) if you want to build what I'm building—has taken quite a lot of experimentation over several amps. With the files you can get the parts cut, which is what I do and the assembly process is based on 4 rails per chassis (bar stock I cut), some small L brackets (Mouser) and M3 and M4 taps—I build the fronts out of wood (see thumb of J2 Babelfish formerly SissySIT chassis, they are about 3 inches wider overall)—but that's just taste. Because I don't have the commercial limitations of making existing stuff work, I'm using some beefy aluminum for side walls that I can tap so they are clean—and am happy to drill many holes to suit the intended layout and ZM,s need for lots of air—certainly wise—and will result in a file modification—or just make the tops the bottoms, but that was a later development and the pattern is more $$ to have cut than me drilling holes for "free". Oh, and putting a nice finish on raw aluminum is a bit of a process—BUT—I'm having great results with plain ole butchers wax as a final "seal".
For cutting from files I use a small operation that has now blown up and is offering all sorts of stuff—anodizing, bending, tapping etc, can get $$$ for one offs though.
For cutting from files I use a small operation that has now blown up and is offering all sorts of stuff—anodizing, bending, tapping etc, can get $$$ for one offs though.
Attachments
ZM—floating around the Scryer thread....would you say I should solder in some sockets for the shifter resistor positions on Sissy? I will be using the same SITs as Scryer....start with same value as what I ended up with in the Scryer amps? Pure luck that I was able to swap those resistors w/o taking the boards off the sinks...I used my laser vision.
In process... thanks for the nudge! They are on the bench now—finishing up this project too, and a guitar amp buffer component.
I reported the dramas in the other related threads... but I'm working on slight chassis retooling—bettering some earlier mono chassis (the ones shown above now have Babel/J2 in them), have to move the SITs a bit to avoid the trafos...I will be using HA! PSUs (both built)...and may add some motor runs (in hand), since why not... So, they are definitely coming, and I'm eager to hear them.
(And as it turns out, links just above, I don't think the first SIssy failure was due to SITs, but rather undetermined PSU issues).
I reported the dramas in the other related threads... but I'm working on slight chassis retooling—bettering some earlier mono chassis (the ones shown above now have Babel/J2 in them), have to move the SITs a bit to avoid the trafos...I will be using HA! PSUs (both built)...and may add some motor runs (in hand), since why not... So, they are definitely coming, and I'm eager to hear them.
(And as it turns out, links just above, I don't think the first SIssy failure was due to SITs, but rather undetermined PSU issues).
Would love to hear more about this. I have tried steel wool to burnish but would be great to have a better finish.
Well.... not to derail the thread—but I can't find a reason to make the response private per se, sorry ZM.
5052 aluminum sheet—(I specify since 6061, for instance, can be different under abrasives in my experience).
Steps for a matte slightly grained finish—separated by hyphen—>arrows:
Clean sheet/part with ISO alcohol —> orbital sand with 100gr, make even swirls, don't dig in, if you have a used sheet use it first to see —> move to 120gr (consider starting here in the future) —> (experiment if you need 180 here or not, depends on amount of care) —> move to 220gr —> clean with ISO —> sand with a sanding block and 120gr in one direction with even strokes to add grain in a direction of your choosing —> same again with 220gr —> final finish with RED scotchbrite pads under a sanding block —> EVENLY and thinly coat finish side/edges with butchers wax—>buff (directions on can).
Also experiment with using the Red Scotchbright under the orbital sander—at the end of first 220 pass, you can always pick up with the 120 for grain from this point—when I've done this I've gotten some incredible surfaces that look deep, like matte plexi but better—however it was hard to get even looking over a larger field—and I preferred a subtle grain. 0000 wool would be a step if I was going for a polished look. IF you go to far with the scotchbrite, or use old pads hoping for what a new pad will give you, you will start to build towards a gloss.
During all of this don't handle the pieces with bare hands. I use a cloth/clean rag under hand/palm to secure the piece. Where a mask.
With each step some care is needed to avoid having the rougher cuts come through to the end—if your sheet is already in great shape with no major flaws, skip the 100gr step—and the paper wears out pretty fast—but then the sanding freaks know that a partially used piece of paper is it's own special tool and can be used very effectively to blend steps. The best final finish comes from a NEW piece of red scotchbrite under a block with even pressure and not too too many repetitions.
I use files for all the edge work, I do all of that before I do anything with the surfaces—knocking down anything sharp, cleaning up tooling marks from rough cutting—rounding over all edges—the monoblocks have a long exposed top and back edge of the 3/8" plate—that takes some work (I use 3/8" because I can tap it). With good file work the edges won't need much attention with abrasives.
Now—this finish is NOT bullet proof like anodizing. I personally think it has a depth and quality that is superior, it won't oxidize with the wax (or will evenly and not obviously change) and unlike anodizing doesn't more than double the cost of a build and that's assuming you have all your holes planned exactly where you need them and don't mar the anodizing when building.
You will be able to wipe down the surface to remove finger prints with a soft cloth, but it will mar easily with a slipped screwdriver blade or allen wrench making a nice shiny moment of intrigue. I'm okay with this and avoid lots of handling—and I tend to add those U shaped handles to the back of everything. You can always do a little re-waxing... fixing a mar requires starting over in my experience...
5052 aluminum sheet—(I specify since 6061, for instance, can be different under abrasives in my experience).
Steps for a matte slightly grained finish—separated by hyphen—>arrows:
Clean sheet/part with ISO alcohol —> orbital sand with 100gr, make even swirls, don't dig in, if you have a used sheet use it first to see —> move to 120gr (consider starting here in the future) —> (experiment if you need 180 here or not, depends on amount of care) —> move to 220gr —> clean with ISO —> sand with a sanding block and 120gr in one direction with even strokes to add grain in a direction of your choosing —> same again with 220gr —> final finish with RED scotchbrite pads under a sanding block —> EVENLY and thinly coat finish side/edges with butchers wax—>buff (directions on can).
Also experiment with using the Red Scotchbright under the orbital sander—at the end of first 220 pass, you can always pick up with the 120 for grain from this point—when I've done this I've gotten some incredible surfaces that look deep, like matte plexi but better—however it was hard to get even looking over a larger field—and I preferred a subtle grain. 0000 wool would be a step if I was going for a polished look. IF you go to far with the scotchbrite, or use old pads hoping for what a new pad will give you, you will start to build towards a gloss.
During all of this don't handle the pieces with bare hands. I use a cloth/clean rag under hand/palm to secure the piece. Where a mask.
With each step some care is needed to avoid having the rougher cuts come through to the end—if your sheet is already in great shape with no major flaws, skip the 100gr step—and the paper wears out pretty fast—but then the sanding freaks know that a partially used piece of paper is it's own special tool and can be used very effectively to blend steps. The best final finish comes from a NEW piece of red scotchbrite under a block with even pressure and not too too many repetitions.
I use files for all the edge work, I do all of that before I do anything with the surfaces—knocking down anything sharp, cleaning up tooling marks from rough cutting—rounding over all edges—the monoblocks have a long exposed top and back edge of the 3/8" plate—that takes some work (I use 3/8" because I can tap it). With good file work the edges won't need much attention with abrasives.
Now—this finish is NOT bullet proof like anodizing. I personally think it has a depth and quality that is superior, it won't oxidize with the wax (or will evenly and not obviously change) and unlike anodizing doesn't more than double the cost of a build and that's assuming you have all your holes planned exactly where you need them and don't mar the anodizing when building.
You will be able to wipe down the surface to remove finger prints with a soft cloth, but it will mar easily with a slipped screwdriver blade or allen wrench making a nice shiny moment of intrigue. I'm okay with this and avoid lots of handling—and I tend to add those U shaped handles to the back of everything. You can always do a little re-waxing... fixing a mar requires starting over in my experience...
Thanks ZM!...
Wow I just happened to have a second look at the link I put above for Johnson's wax (WTH price??)... apparently it was discontinued in 2021 but never confirmed?... my tin is literally from highschool days...and that was quite SOME time ago. I did a little research on this... looks like Briwax might be a substitute. The key ingredient being carnuaba wax.
Wow I just happened to have a second look at the link I put above for Johnson's wax (WTH price??)... apparently it was discontinued in 2021 but never confirmed?... my tin is literally from highschool days...and that was quite SOME time ago. I did a little research on this... looks like Briwax might be a substitute. The key ingredient being carnuaba wax.
Bustin' out for Rosie. New S42 build commenced, thank you very much ZM for provisioning your lovely kit. So far boards are nearly completely populated.
First problem:
I think I ooked up P201, manhandled it upright after soldering and may have internally damaged. It does not read correctly across R204 (0R2) vs. R104 (30R). Measuring the trimmer leads from under the board I see inconsistency between P101 and P201.
In reading the numerals imprinted on the top of the trimmers, looks like correct replacement is:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bourns/3296Y-1-101?qs=zLmgxZuhK3VQC8bel0o6gg==
Do I have that right? I will uninstall P201 measure it and report back.
Jim
First problem:
I think I ooked up P201, manhandled it upright after soldering and may have internally damaged. It does not read correctly across R204 (0R2) vs. R104 (30R). Measuring the trimmer leads from under the board I see inconsistency between P101 and P201.
In reading the numerals imprinted on the top of the trimmers, looks like correct replacement is:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bourns/3296Y-1-101?qs=zLmgxZuhK3VQC8bel0o6gg==
Do I have that right? I will uninstall P201 measure it and report back.
Jim