Thanks Nelson Pass,
I had the suspect that something was wrong , your explanation is clear, and any doubt regarding the subject is gone.
🙂
Anyway I like too much this amp, I will go first disconnect the bjt and then try with a smaller P mosfet like the zvp 's since the 9610 doesn't satisfy me completely.
😎
I had the suspect that something was wrong , your explanation is clear, and any doubt regarding the subject is gone.
🙂
Anyway I like too much this amp, I will go first disconnect the bjt and then try with a smaller P mosfet like the zvp 's since the 9610 doesn't satisfy me completely.
😎
Hey Stephano,
Keep us posted with your future results. You are a true DIYer. Though the cascode was incorrect, I still appreciate your efforts!
Thank you Nelson for the sprinkle.
John Inlow
Keep us posted with your future results. You are a true DIYer. Though the cascode was incorrect, I still appreciate your efforts!
Thank you Nelson for the sprinkle.
John Inlow
Haven't constructed it, but it simulates well... seems stable (maybe even more than the aleph X) I think it would work. It require hefty supplies, that is for sure!
I was using IRFI540G parts for the simulation (they were what was in my library) but I don't see why IRFP240's or any of the other popular transistors wouldn't work.
I was using IRFI540G parts for the simulation (they were what was in my library) but I don't see why IRFP240's or any of the other popular transistors wouldn't work.
Actually, looking at it again, it will do about 35 watts into 8 or 6 ohms, current limited. It really does need more bias current. If you raise the + rail to 60V, it will do about 60 watts into 4 ohms, but the dissipation on the transistors goes up to about 200 watts- about 32 watts each. The bulbs double their dissipation too.
But it needs a new name. It is not a Zen because 2 gainstage like younger alehps and paralleled output devices. Zen is one gainstage and one gaindevice. It also is no aleph because no aleph current source. The name should be connected to light... like Fosites or so.
Tubes as resistors
Thanks to a good collection of unusable tubes, I have been letting filaments act as resistors.
!: five 12by7 in parallel- low V of 11.5, and a current of 1.5 amp. adding a modest resistor, 6.2 ohms, I have like 17 volts drop, at 1.5 amp.
2: 2x--5u4 rectifier, 10V drop @ 2 amps. Add a resistor (Dale 50 w encapsulated), and some modest heatsink, a two amp supply. Nothing gets very Hot, but the watts ARE pouring out.
Thanks to a good collection of unusable tubes, I have been letting filaments act as resistors.
!: five 12by7 in parallel- low V of 11.5, and a current of 1.5 amp. adding a modest resistor, 6.2 ohms, I have like 17 volts drop, at 1.5 amp.
2: 2x--5u4 rectifier, 10V drop @ 2 amps. Add a resistor (Dale 50 w encapsulated), and some modest heatsink, a two amp supply. Nothing gets very Hot, but the watts ARE pouring out.
Nelson said:
I thought so, but there didn't seem to be any interest... maybe I should start a new thread?
It would be nice to make more power than the XSOZ, with a lot less heat sink.
Oh well, I guess if it ain't a gainclone...
Steve
I thought so, but there didn't seem to be any interest... maybe I should start a new thread?
It would be nice to make more power than the XSOZ, with a lot less heat sink.
Oh well, I guess if it ain't a gainclone...
Steve
hey, there is interest! Only, i can´t build an amp every week like peter daniel! heatsinks are expensive, power supplys too. And for more lite amps i have to source some of these high watt low voltage bulbs (110V) and, harder the ceramic stand sockets from the zen lite article. And worse: every amp needs time to build it.
till said:
Sorry, I wasn't thinking internationally.
The reason I do so much simulation and so little building is that I have so little budget, so I do understand what you are saying. I had no idea that the bulbs and sockets were hard for you to find over there... they are everywhere around here!
I just thought this idea was pretty neat... combining su-sy with the bulb bias lends simplicity and helps with the heat sink issue, while still having a lot of potential for high-quality sound.
I don't think I was wrong in saying there is no interest, when there have been all of 2 or 3 replies to my post (not crying about it. I was just surprised).
Anyway...
Maybe in the not-so-distant future I will put one of these together. I have narrowed my plans to building a tri-amped 3 way. The Aleph-X I am currently building will be driving the mids, a gainclone (or something Nelson has up his sleeve that is push-pull?) will be driving the lows, and maybe an X-lite for the tweeters? It's a possibility.
Steve
There indeed seems to be less interest in lite amps than i would expect. Maybe people don´t trust in the quality of the simple design. I plan to biamp my horns with eventually and aleph x (PCB laying around, big parts like heatsinks to expensive to start building), else my Zen V4 + a lite amp for the TD2001 horns.
What we need is the active crossover for this, Nelson, i hope you read this....
Lightbulbs are no problem for 240V and between 40 and 150W here. 300-1000W are on the market but much more expensive. Sockets in every form, but no stand socket.
What we need is the active crossover for this, Nelson, i hope you read this....
Lightbulbs are no problem for 240V and between 40 and 150W here. 300-1000W are on the market but much more expensive. Sockets in every form, but no stand socket.
what's the difference beween a light bulb and a classical light bulb (the one you have everywhere in your house)
i don´t know any difference between lightbulb and classical lightbulb? I only need bulbs with low enough resistance. So 240V 150W is not good as i would need 6 in parallel or so. And stand mounting sockets as normal E33 sockets are not really good for mounting on an amplifier enclosure.
till said:
I build the amplifier fiew days ago . The quality is all there.
I use 2 Philips brilliant halogen 500w (240volt).
The length of the bulbs is 117.6mm.It is possible solder the wires directly at bulbs extremities and build yourself a bulb socket.
I made myself a bulb socket prototype with a 4mm metal wire.
I buy 4 light bulbs at the supermarket for less than 20 euros.
of corse i built my first test amp of zen light also with those halosticks. But the sockest are really not what i like on an amp eclosure, i want real bulbs.
As you may have seen i build a zen lite with 1000W 240V Photo - lamp halos. It seems to be important to use these with very high voltage, else the glas gets black after some hours because the halogen effect doesn´t work.
As you may have seen i build a zen lite with 1000W 240V Photo - lamp halos. It seems to be important to use these with very high voltage, else the glas gets black after some hours because the halogen effect doesn´t work.
Hey Nobody......
Are you in a position to clean up the schematic you posted? I would find it much more interesting if I could see it clearly. Being's that I'm a carpenter, not an E.E., I need all the help I can get with electronics, i.e. a clean schematic for a start. If you are able, a description of how the circuit operates would be fantastic. A show of options and their associated benefits would be most useful.
Many thanks,
John Inlow
Are you in a position to clean up the schematic you posted? I would find it much more interesting if I could see it clearly. Being's that I'm a carpenter, not an E.E., I need all the help I can get with electronics, i.e. a clean schematic for a start. If you are able, a description of how the circuit operates would be fantastic. A show of options and their associated benefits would be most useful.
Many thanks,
John Inlow
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