Relative polarities of both drivers is unchanged. Absolute polarities do not matter...What do you expect from these erratic changes when things looked fine enough...
If you change polarities, check your curve first. If the curve is right, don't change polarities. The curve is right, so...
What is the curve like? Dont assess with the curve only, nor by listenning only, check both...😉
😕?
The room curve doesn't look bad at all...
Maybe worth try lowering the xover point to fill better the 100-200hz area...
3.9mH?
Maybe worth closing the BR too...
It's the only possibilite to reduce the big peak at 55Hz?
Better testing and make decisions now based on listening impressions...
I mean that if you do not see a big deep with a V shape (as in post 157) polarities are likely to be ok.
Re Inductors, no the other way, you need bigger ones, like 5.6mH
Re BR, is there anything sacred about your flat Win ISD simulation? 😀
WinIsd users always paranoic finding ultra low bass BR alignments, but these things simply never work, especially rear firing to a back wall, closed box are much more civilized in situations like yours.
Troels Gravesen uses instead sims that try to account for what he globally calls "Room gain", and this certainly gives more realistic results.
The other way is Eq as explained in the BK paper.
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I mean that if you do not see a big deep with a V shape (as in post 157) polarities are likely to be ok.
Understood

Re Inductors, no the other way, you need bigger ones, like 5.6mH
Re BR, is there anything sacred about your flat Win ISD simulation? 😀
WinIsd users always paranoic finding ultra low bass BR alignments, but these things simply never work, especially rear firing to a back wall, closed box are much more civilized in situations like yours.
Troels Gravesen uses instead sims that try to account for what he globally calls "Room gain", and this certainly gives more realistic results.
The other way is Eq as explained in the BK paper.
Also if the BR is placed in front?
Also if the BR is placed in front?
😀 Touché... But yes, it looks that our are exciting a mode around 35hz because of being too close to the back wall.
Just put a piece of cloth in that BR and you will make your own idea...
Btw, i also think that you might improve linearity around 2-3hz by lowering the value of the 22uF capacitor on the SS. Would try 18Uf, 15uF, or even 12uF...🙄
Well other solution is to move the loudspeaker to let 1 meter or 1.5 meter far from the back wall or as you suggested go closed box.
Well other solution is to move the loudspeaker to let 1 meter or 1.5 meter far from the back wall or as you suggested go closed box.
Solution what the "bass bump" or the linearity at 2-3khz?
Changing the capacitor is for removing the dip at 2-3khz...
Moving the speaker inside the room? Well, it's your room and your waf...
Personnally i am not audiophile enough to accept stumbling with cabinets in the middle of a room, so that close to the wall like most pieces of furniture or NOTHING...

Hence, in my case: Close box woofers and Eq. ( or bass traps, pero no, más cacharros, NOOOO...)
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Solution what the "bass bump" or the linearity at 2-3khz? moving the loudspeaker for "bass hump"
Changing the capacitor is for removing the dip at 2-3khz... ok
Moving the speaker inside the room? Well, it's your room and your waf...
Personnally i am not audiophile enough to accept stumbling with cabinets in the middle of a room, so that close to the wall like most pieces of furniture or NOTHING...noted
Anyway removing from the walls will not remove all excess of energy in the bass, only clear boundary reforcements that i personnally find usefull and don't really care about advices againts early reflections, all this litterature seudo sico science...🙄
Even power response and smooth tonal balance is 90% of the job, with or without walls, corners, etc...
Even power response and smooth tonal balance is 90% of the job, with or without walls, corners, etc...
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