Hi Scott- First let me say that I would never blame you for any of my poor build attempts. I have far too much respect and admiration for guys like you and Dave who give your time to help guys like me with my retirement hobby.
The harpoons are completed with the Aura NS3-193-8A drivers. To my poor old ears they sound great. I have been playing them with a couple TPA3116 amps and am very happy.
cheers- prezden
The harpoons are completed with the Aura NS3-193-8A drivers. To my poor old ears they sound great. I have been playing them with a couple TPA3116 amps and am very happy.
cheers- prezden
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Thanks guys. Baltic birch ply is great material to work with. I can get it here in 15x30" pieces in every thickness from 1/8 to 3/4"
Hi All,
I'm trying to model the lance for a couple of different drivers. Currently trying the Leonard audio software but may switch to the MJK worksheets in due course.
Anyway, I have a basic question about how to measure the length of the different sections from the diagram.
For the first section (the 76.3mm section) in the attached image should the length of the section extend to the bottom end of the blue or the pink line?
I assume probably the pink line and then the next section length would match that shown by the yellow line.
Can anyone confirm this for me?
Thanks
I'm trying to model the lance for a couple of different drivers. Currently trying the Leonard audio software but may switch to the MJK worksheets in due course.
Anyway, I have a basic question about how to measure the length of the different sections from the diagram.
For the first section (the 76.3mm section) in the attached image should the length of the section extend to the bottom end of the blue or the pink line?
I assume probably the pink line and then the next section length would match that shown by the yellow line.
Can anyone confirm this for me?
Thanks
Attachments
I've always taken it that you measure the length of any line / horn at the center of each section / fold. So by my quick cocktail napkin calculation, the total length of the 6 sections (assuming 1/2" material and including port) would be approx 805mm = 31.7"
Keep in mind that Scott's designs are specifically modeled for each driver's TSP, and that regardless of the software used, there may be special / propriety factors and targets in his calculus which some folks might overlook.
Keep in mind that Scott's designs are specifically modeled for each driver's TSP, and that regardless of the software used, there may be special / propriety factors and targets in his calculus which some folks might overlook.
Thanks Chris, your total line length matches my calculations so that's a good start 🙂
Unless someone else chimes in I'm therefore going to go with the length of the first section as being approx 222.3mm long (the pink line in my drawing) with the 2nd and 3rd sections being 285.1mm and 297.8mm - assuming 3 sections with differing areas.
Now I'll see if I can broadly replicate the modelled response for the fostex in post #15 http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/247904-woden-design-3-box-designs-2.html#post3753912 and then see what happens when a different driver is used.
Unless someone else chimes in I'm therefore going to go with the length of the first section as being approx 222.3mm long (the pink line in my drawing) with the 2nd and 3rd sections being 285.1mm and 297.8mm - assuming 3 sections with differing areas.
Now I'll see if I can broadly replicate the modelled response for the fostex in post #15 http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/247904-woden-design-3-box-designs-2.html#post3753912 and then see what happens when a different driver is used.
I have stopped using the MJK worksheets because of the impending loss of MathCAD. I have a copy of MathCAD 14. The upgrade to the current PTC software requires converting MathCAD 14 worksheets to MathCAD 15, then to their new software (I can't remember what they are calling it). The next time I have to reload a computer, I will not have a licence for 14. All of my worksheets and any future modeling gone.
Pete Leonard promised me that he intends to maintain his model. In fact, he did an update based on a couple of bugs I found. His software is based on current Microsoft API's. It should work for say 10 years with no updating. The basic predictions match Martin's predictions exactly. The stuffing doesn't produce the same result, but who cares. Martin's worksheets have all of that in-room prediction which is nice, but I have never found it matched my room.
If you have figured Pete's software out, stick with it.
Bob
Thanks Bob.
If you're happy with the results from Pete's software then that's a pretty good endorsement as far as I'm concerned.
I've just started playing with it but it seems the learning curve is not too steep.
If you're happy with the results from Pete's software then that's a pretty good endorsement as far as I'm concerned.
I've just started playing with it but it seems the learning curve is not too steep.
Hi guys- I would like to build a pair of lances but can't afford drivers at $90 pr.
I understand these designs are for specific drivers. Would it be at all possible for someone to recommend a less expensive driver like the Aura or one of the TB-W3's and provide the dimensions or drawings for the build.
I know this is a lot to ask and I am willing to pay someone or make a donation to the forum. If my request is not appropriate please forgive me.
Thanks- prezden
I understand these designs are for specific drivers. Would it be at all possible for someone to recommend a less expensive driver like the Aura or one of the TB-W3's and provide the dimensions or drawings for the build.
I know this is a lot to ask and I am willing to pay someone or make a donation to the forum. If my request is not appropriate please forgive me.
Thanks- prezden
I don't like stuffing drivers into boxes designed for something else, but something like a W3-315SC will go into the Lance cabinet -I stress it won't be ideal, but it could be worse. Ebola for instance.
The best advice I can give you costs nothing though: if you need to save up another month or two for the Fostex, do so. It's worth every penny and in the medium - longer term, you'll thank us.
The best advice I can give you costs nothing though: if you need to save up another month or two for the Fostex, do so. It's worth every penny and in the medium - longer term, you'll thank us.
yup, there's a reason we've been yammering on about the FF85WK and its immediate predecessor - I think they're the most fun you can have for that much money with 3 inches
LOL nice quote chrisb
I want to build a pair of the Lance boxes with/for my son. Can someone point me to the specifics on what to use for the stuffing material, and how much? This will be our first speaker build - I've done tube amps, but not speakers so it is all new learning.
I want to build a pair of the Lance boxes with/for my son. Can someone point me to the specifics on what to use for the stuffing material, and how much? This will be our first speaker build - I've done tube amps, but not speakers so it is all new learning.
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Here is a small TL cabin with Aura's (sorry for bad pictures)
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...ge-speaker-photo-gallery-294.html#post3947664
I've just modelled the lance speaker in the Leonard Audio TL software (with some help from the software designer to get me on the right track!).
Having now modelled a few other drivers of a similar size, it seems as if the Visaton FRS8M is almost a drop in replacement.
The Faital Pro 3FE25 and the Visaton FRS8 look like they should work ok too.
I have the FRS8 on hand so think I'll give it a try.
Having now modelled a few other drivers of a similar size, it seems as if the Visaton FRS8M is almost a drop in replacement.
The Faital Pro 3FE25 and the Visaton FRS8 look like they should work ok too.
I have the FRS8 on hand so think I'll give it a try.
