Folks:
We've all heard good-sounding attenuators and bad-sounding attenuators. Is there a qualitative difference between a WMSTAMP attenuator and a relay-based attenuator? I'd rather spend the extra money (within reason) if the end result was a better-sounding attenuator.
Which one sounds best?
Regards,
Scott
We've all heard good-sounding attenuators and bad-sounding attenuators. Is there a qualitative difference between a WMSTAMP attenuator and a relay-based attenuator? I'd rather spend the extra money (within reason) if the end result was a better-sounding attenuator.
Which one sounds best?
Regards,
Scott
SRMcGee said:
Interesting question. It probably will depend upon the relays and resistors on the one hand and how good is the WM on the other. As it will have to be followed by an active stage things only get more complicated.
Maybe PD can offer an insight.
I didn't have a chance listening to Wolfson chip yet. With regards to Placette type circuit, it certainly depends on resistor types used and I still think that relays affect sound in some way as well.
I went back to using TVC in both of my systems now.
With resistors (and relays), initially, you get impresion of high resolution, immediacy and air, but when you connect your source directly to the amp, you may notice that that impression is not quite real, that it is actually a coloration. It's hard to say if it mostly caused by resistors or relays. I think that it probably comes from relays as I always found Placette somewhat "better" sounding than two resistors divider. 😉
TVC seems to be more neutral here.
Proper system matching is also important.
I went back to using TVC in both of my systems now.
With resistors (and relays), initially, you get impresion of high resolution, immediacy and air, but when you connect your source directly to the amp, you may notice that that impression is not quite real, that it is actually a coloration. It's hard to say if it mostly caused by resistors or relays. I think that it probably comes from relays as I always found Placette somewhat "better" sounding than two resistors divider. 😉
TVC seems to be more neutral here.
Proper system matching is also important.
analog_sa said:
Pavel (second poster on this thread) shared his audio "refiner" with the forum some time back. 🙂 It's s/n is better than 120db and it actually looks VERY impressive.
I have been waiting for this attenuator for over a year now to use with Pavels PCB's. Yes, sadly I have no life.
The combo (WM Stamp and Pavels boards) were to make a "hi-end" stereo pre-amp but alas this may be a lost hope for me since EVERYTHING in my life has changed over this last year I have been waiting.
I would like to hear of others results from this project if there are any.
If you are looking for transparent sounding volume control - relay one will be the best choice. WMSTAMP sound character depends from used op-amps. Both have advantages so everything will depend from direct system 😉
Thanks to Peter I will have wm8816 chips for about week. I also made few more upgrades in control board and software - now it's more universal (2x16 or 2x20 LCD can be used interchangeably, there is a place for standard linear potentiometer instead of encoder).
Hi veteran, I've been reading this thread for a while. any word on the progress?
Best regards
Henrik
Best regards
Henrik
Will this work on a ChipAmp?
Please follow the link.
http://www.welbornelabs.com/remote.htm
Will this work with a 3886 Chipamp?
Please follow the link.
http://www.welbornelabs.com/remote.htm
Will this work with a 3886 Chipamp?
I have 2 WM chips with me for ages, willing to donate them.
Coz they are of no use to me, I use others like PGA and CS and a few from AD.
Coz they are of no use to me, I use others like PGA and CS and a few from AD.
There is some doom under this project. I have control boards, wmstamp boards (gold- and tin plated), program ready (it's tested and I'm still adding another options) but post office lost package from Peter Daniel with 45 WM8816s inside.
I can prepare sets with everything inside but you have to buy wm8816 chip yourself.
I can prepare sets with everything inside but you have to buy wm8816 chip yourself.
Attachments
I hope the package was insured
How much for the (kit)?
What is needed to get working? Just insert the wm8816 into socket?
Thank You............Gary
How much for the (kit)?
What is needed to get working? Just insert the wm8816 into socket?
Thank You............Gary
)
I work and study so not always I can intend as much time for my hobby as I want 😉 I calculated prices for this project:
driver: PCB + programmed microcontroller + components (50$)
WMSTAMP PCB gold plated: 8$
WMSTAMP PCB tin plated: 6$
components for WMSTAMP PCB (optocouplers, 5V voltage regulator, resistors, connector): 12$
Most expensive parts on stamp boards are the optocouplers.
driver: PCB + programmed microcontroller + components (50$)
WMSTAMP PCB gold plated: 8$
WMSTAMP PCB tin plated: 6$
components for WMSTAMP PCB (optocouplers, 5V voltage regulator, resistors, connector): 12$
Most expensive parts on stamp boards are the optocouplers.
I'm interested. It looks like the total cost is $50 + 8 + 12 + cost of WM8816 chip + shipping?
Thanks
Dave
Thanks
Dave