Folks:
We've all heard good-sounding attenuators and bad-sounding attenuators. Is there a qualitative difference between a WMSTAMP attenuator and a relay-based attenuator? I'd rather spend the extra money (within reason) if the end result was a better-sounding attenuator.
Which one sounds best?
Regards,
Scott
We've all heard good-sounding attenuators and bad-sounding attenuators. Is there a qualitative difference between a WMSTAMP attenuator and a relay-based attenuator? I'd rather spend the extra money (within reason) if the end result was a better-sounding attenuator.
Which one sounds best?
Regards,
Scott
I didn't have a chance listening to Wolfson chip yet. With regards to Placette type circuit, it certainly depends on resistor types used and I still think that relays affect sound in some way as well.
I went back to using TVC in both of my systems now.
With resistors (and relays), initially, you get impresion of high resolution, immediacy and air, but when you connect your source directly to the amp, you may notice that that impression is not quite real, that it is actually a coloration. It's hard to say if it mostly caused by resistors or relays. I think that it probably comes from relays as I always found Placette somewhat "better" sounding than two resistors divider.
TVC seems to be more neutral here.
Proper system matching is also important.
I went back to using TVC in both of my systems now.
With resistors (and relays), initially, you get impresion of high resolution, immediacy and air, but when you connect your source directly to the amp, you may notice that that impression is not quite real, that it is actually a coloration. It's hard to say if it mostly caused by resistors or relays. I think that it probably comes from relays as I always found Placette somewhat "better" sounding than two resistors divider.
TVC seems to be more neutral here.
Proper system matching is also important.
analog_sa said:
Pavel (second poster on this thread) shared his audio "refiner" with the forum some time back.
It's s/n is better than 120db and it actually looks VERY impressive.I have been waiting for this attenuator for over a year now to use with Pavels PCB's. Yes, sadly I have no life.
The combo (WM Stamp and Pavels boards) were to make a "hi-end" stereo pre-amp but alas this may be a lost hope for me since EVERYTHING in my life has changed over this last year I have been waiting.
I would like to hear of others results from this project if there are any.
Will this work on a ChipAmp?
Please follow the link.
http://www.welbornelabs.com/remote.htm
Will this work with a 3886 Chipamp?
Please follow the link.
http://www.welbornelabs.com/remote.htm
Will this work with a 3886 Chipamp?
There is some doom under this project. I have control boards, wmstamp boards (gold- and tin plated), program ready (it's tested and I'm still adding another options) but post office lost package from Peter Daniel with 45 WM8816s inside.
I can prepare sets with everything inside but you have to buy wm8816 chip yourself.
I can prepare sets with everything inside but you have to buy wm8816 chip yourself.
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I work and study so not always I can intend as much time for my hobby as I want I calculated prices for this project:
driver: PCB + programmed microcontroller + components (50$)
WMSTAMP PCB gold plated: 8$
WMSTAMP PCB tin plated: 6$
components for WMSTAMP PCB (optocouplers, 5V voltage regulator, resistors, connector): 12$
Most expensive parts on stamp boards are the optocouplers.
I calculated prices for this project:driver: PCB + programmed microcontroller + components (50$)
WMSTAMP PCB gold plated: 8$
WMSTAMP PCB tin plated: 6$
components for WMSTAMP PCB (optocouplers, 5V voltage regulator, resistors, connector): 12$
Most expensive parts on stamp boards are the optocouplers.
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