What's wrong with the kiss, boy?

Peppe

you don't need big Donut

proper one can be mounted at side wall of case, most left front

10VA is OK
Yup

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Side panel of a Galaxy 3U :cheers:
 
^ I'm not sure he ever did. I used a standard 14-pin ribbon cable and connectors. You can also use breadboard jumper wires etc. Lots of good options.

Here are the links for what I used to assemble cables and the headers. You can also buy the cables pre-made.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007R2JEM4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00THPU81K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q8ENQSK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01071U7EA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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Some questions for the BOM:
  • Offset trimmers are ok 25R instead of 22R?
  • Mouser part numbers for relays and ZD1, ZD2?

Thanks :cheers:
I thought I had sent you a full BoM with P/Ns. I still can if it will help.

These are what I used for my final SE build. I built a few versions, so please be sure to check the values against your schematic. There were a few tweaks over time.

K1-K5
24 VDC Non Latching Relay
817-RY-24W-K

ZD1
27V
0.5W
771-BZX79-C27113

ZD2
8V2
0.5W
771-BZX79-C8V2-T/R

Edited for formatting - my table format clearly did not work. 😀
 
I thought I had sent you a full BoM with P/Ns. I still can if it will help.

These are what I used for my final SE build. I built a few versions, so please be sure to check the values against your schematic. There were a few tweaks over time.

K1-K5
24 VDC Non Latching Relay
817-RY-24W-K

ZD1
27V
0.5W
771-BZX79-C27113

ZD2
8V2
0.5W
771-BZX79-C8V2-T/R

Edited for formatting - my table format clearly did not work. 😀
MANY Thanks! :cheers:
 
^ For your own fun... look at data sheet for the RY-series of relays. See where RY-W-K is on the sheet and note what's in the far left column of text along with the coil resistance etc. in the other columns. Look at "how far apart" the RY-D-K relays are from the original part on the sheet. Then... note if there might be any parts that may be a bit closer to what you're looking for. Then check that far left column again... and wonder...

tl;dr - It will work, but you should know what specs are critical or be able to look at the sheet and ask if "this spec'ed part is OK vs. that spec'ed part". Great way to learn.

Edited to add - Or you can just ignore me, when the Mighty one himself beats me to the answer. 😀
 
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