What’s this Amps 8 ohm RMS? Help

@Galu hey I got a question these plastic things are for the ic, to not contact the aluminium case right? I was ganna clean them and replace the thermal paste, but they are brittle, what are they called? Or maybe I should just use thermal pads? Any ideas on what the way about this?
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Those are mica insulators and are used to electrically isolate components such as transistors from a heat sink or a metal case.

Mica is a naturally occuring mineral which is a good conductor of heat. It comes in thin sheets which are brittle.

You should also use heat-sink compound between the mica and the component, as well as between the mica and the heat sink itself.
 
Yeah I would but one snapped in half and on Amazon it’s 200-500 pcs kits lol am not a amp manufacture🫠 but il just order some by the same measurement as the one that’s broken, thanks all the stuff is ordered 😎 can’t wait to get started

Tuned the box to 36hz everything is fine just little worried about group delay but I mean it could be better but I can’t modify anything more to improve everything group delay ain’t that bad
 
😂 group delay is the difference the noise coming from sub and port, it’s a measurement of the sync between the box and sub. Nvm it it will be fine now am in other problem,

My coaxial speakers are Pioneer TS-G1030F 10cm 3-way

My sub is: DS18 SLC8S Select Series 8-Inch

The coaxial frequency response is 35-27,000Hz
The Subs frequency response is 50Hz- 4.5KHz

Where is my passive crossover point? 4500-27,000Hz or ? Am a bit confused how this works
 
I'm not exactly clear on how you propose to use your Thunder amp to power your subwoofer. I see you can select a low pass filter (LPF) output with the 'X-OVER' switch, then choose LPF frequencies of either 40 Hz or 300 Hz on the 'LPF' selector.

If you select 300 Hz, I presume that the amp will then deliver bass frequencies up to 300 Hz to your subwoofer.

(I must say that I am not an expert on car audio and have no previous experience of working with such amplifiers.)

I would say that 300 Hz is the preferable LPF frequency for use with your coaxial speakers. The coaxials can be run full range without a high pass crossover, as their acoustic contribution wll fall away naturally at the lowest frequencies.
 
You seem confused about how a subwoofer works.

A domestic subwoofer is typically used to cover the bass frequencies up to 200 Hz and is not intended to reproduce the higher frequencies.

The subwoofer's function is simply to reinforce the low-frequency range of the stereo speakers (i.e. your coaxials).
 
It should make perfect sense if you think about your 2 x 50 W + 100 W class D amp.

The 2 x 50 W section is the stereo amp (for your coaxials) and the 100 W section is the low pass filtered mono amp for your subwoofer.

Using the Thunder amp instead of the subwoofer section of the class D amp introduces a complication, and I'm not 100% sure that I am giving you the correct advice.

You'll just have to try it and see!
 
The 2x50w+100w has bad frequency control Ofc I will play around with both, il be getting a multi meter to make sure not to blow my speakers, it should work next week will find out, il be using UGREEN Bluetooth Receiver for HiFi to provide input to class D and Thunder Amp so lol I don’t wanna think, am sure it will work
 
If using the Thunder to power your sub, select MONO on the MODE switch. You may use the amp in BRIDGE mode when only connecting one speaker load (the sub) to it.

P.S. The way "to make sure not to blow my speakers" is to keep the volume in check and to desist from trying to find out how loud they will go!

I await a full report when you have your system up and running. Have fun!
 
P.S. Have you thought of how to control the volume of the Thunder powered sub compared to the volume of the class D powered coaxials?

A sub should not be so loud as to overpower the stereo speakers. It should just add a little more low frequency 'oomph' without being 'in your face'.