Well the rms of the sub is 200watt so il make sure at full max volume the output will hit 190watt, 😏 I like to up the bass coz it’s bass 😎 but I won’t go any further then recommend power, and yes for volume control I have 3 volume control
Class D amp coaxial speaker : bass and treble
Vibe bass volume control Knob Sub : Gain/Bass
Bluetooth-RCA receiver outputs x2 : Phone main volume
Class D amp coaxial speaker : bass and treble
Vibe bass volume control Knob Sub : Gain/Bass
Bluetooth-RCA receiver outputs x2 : Phone main volume
Note that when the Thunder amplifier is in BRIDGE mode it can output up to 350 W into 4 ohm.
However, the quoted figure of 350 W is not claimed to be the RMS or 'true power' output of the amp.
The RMS power output of the Thunder amp in BRIDGE mode is probably around half of the quoted figure, i.e., around 175 W.
Regardless, "caw canny" as we say in Scotland - meaning "go gently" with the volume control!
For reference, I've attached a couple of images which show how to wire the subwoofer to the BRIDGED loudspeaker terminals.
However, the quoted figure of 350 W is not claimed to be the RMS or 'true power' output of the amp.
The RMS power output of the Thunder amp in BRIDGE mode is probably around half of the quoted figure, i.e., around 175 W.
Regardless, "caw canny" as we say in Scotland - meaning "go gently" with the volume control!
For reference, I've attached a couple of images which show how to wire the subwoofer to the BRIDGED loudspeaker terminals.
Attachments
Yeah it doesn’t say Rms but on the lid of the amp it says 1200watt guessing “max power”😂😂 but when I saw the 175watt it was more reasonable, also when I didn’t the research the amp came with a sub and box, the sub was 400watt rms so 350watt in stereo is about right, il just set the gain and the sub shouldn’t go above it’s rated Watts, also got 2 fuses guessing for each channel they are 30 amps just not sure what volts at 30amps guessing the cars battery power do 12-14.4v dc my power supply is 12v at 30A which is 360watts maybe I should change my fuses to make about 200watts so that the fuse blows if it gets to much power idk just an idea.
Yes thanks a lot can’t wait some stuff has already come but my dad needs to send a parcel over to me here in Lithuania 😒😩 so Tuesday it leaves and takes about 2-3 days to come from UK
Just struggling to understand my port, I got everything just don’t understand if it’s only the walls or the whole port volume I need to take away from the enclosure to get the final volume of the box
Yes thanks a lot can’t wait some stuff has already come but my dad needs to send a parcel over to me here in Lithuania 😒😩 so Tuesday it leaves and takes about 2-3 days to come from UK
Just struggling to understand my port, I got everything just don’t understand if it’s only the walls or the whole port volume I need to take away from the enclosure to get the final volume of the box
https://www.thunder.bg/product_info.php?products_id=3399
This a little newer amp from thunder they rate it at 3000max power and the rms is 150watt per channel at 4ohm
So am guessing mine is older little weaker and those are rms but as it’s not stated still should be carefull
This a little newer amp from thunder they rate it at 3000max power and the rms is 150watt per channel at 4ohm
So am guessing mine is older little weaker and those are rms but as it’s not stated still should be carefull
You said earlier that you tuned the sub box to 36 Hz.
The internal enclosure volume (Vb) calculated to achieve that tuning will not include the port volume.
You need to add the port volume to the calculated enclosure volume to determine the final internal box volume.
The external volume of the enclosure obviously must be made larger than the internal volume to allow for the wall thickness.
So to make my port inside and everything to be tuned I should add my ports volume to my free air volume to get the final volume?
So basiclly,
Example:
Box Volume 1.65ft3
Port volume 0.388 rounded to 0.39ft3
So for my port to be inside and for my tuning to work I need to have 2.04ft3 off final volume
Correct me if am wrong
Example:
Box Volume 1.65ft3
Port volume 0.388 rounded to 0.39ft3
So for my port to be inside and for my tuning to work I need to have 2.04ft3 off final volume
Correct me if am wrong
What software are you using?
If the software makes it clear that the calculated volume of 1.65 cu ft is the free air volume, then you need to add the port volume as you have indicated.
If the software makes it clear that the calculated volume of 1.65 cu ft is the free air volume, then you need to add the port volume as you have indicated.
I read that WinISD shows the "net" volume of your box.
The "net" volume = the free air volume.
The "gross" volume has to include the volume of the port.
So you need to add the volume of the port to get your final internal box volume.
The "net" volume = the free air volume.
The "gross" volume has to include the volume of the port.
So you need to add the volume of the port to get your final internal box volume.
Thanks, am actually have about that as I can allow my amp to be not covered by anything, so therefore it will be viable from the acrylic windows 😎
@Galu
Hey got my stuff been trying to make this box, just stuck on how do I figure out the proper gain settings without a clip meter and only with multimeter, also what’s mono mode and stereo mode should I be using stereo mode for my sub?
Got sub pics of how the box ganna look
Hey got my stuff been trying to make this box, just stuck on how do I figure out the proper gain settings without a clip meter and only with multimeter, also what’s mono mode and stereo mode should I be using stereo mode for my sub?
Got sub pics of how the box ganna look
Attachments
See my post #39: "If using the Thunder to power your sub, select MONO on the MODE switch."
The MONO mode sums the L and R line inputs to the Thunder and ensures your subwoofer gets all the necessary low frequency information.
You mention volume controls in your post #41, but I'm not entirely sure how you intend to put the system together. All I can suggest is that trial and error may be the way to achieve "the proper gain settings".
P.S. Don't overlook the LEVEL control on the Thunder amp.
Thanks, yeah I tried it everything seems fine, just that I got a RCA volume controller but seems like when I plug it in it gives distortion
Could you draw a block diagram of your system that shows how everything is connected together and where the "RCA volume controller" is situated?
I can follow your diagram:
The bluetooth receiver is the source.
Its aux output connects to the class D stereo amp, while its RCA output connects to the Thunder subwoofer amp via an "RCA controller".
I'd like to know more about this "RCA controller". Perhaps you could give a link to its specifications?
The bluetooth receiver is the source.
Its aux output connects to the class D stereo amp, while its RCA output connects to the Thunder subwoofer amp via an "RCA controller".
I'd like to know more about this "RCA controller". Perhaps you could give a link to its specifications?