Same idea maybe, but koda's is an aftermarket type made for knockoff turntables, and not retractable as the Technics is.
There's nothing "knockoff" about it. The fact is Hanpin makes a very good product.
For 750$ you get a turntable with wider pitch control and three times the torque as a 1200MK7 that costs 1300$ and the same wow and flutter specs as a £6000 Acoustic Solid Wood Round MPX Turntable (https://hifiplus.com/articles/acoustic-solid-wood-round-mpx-turntable/)
The only turntable with a retractable light is a 1200 now, and they now use LED instead. So much cheaper to use an RCA and an LED, plus you can steer it, too 🙂
For 750$ you get a turntable with wider pitch control and three times the torque as a 1200MK7 that costs 1300$ and the same wow and flutter specs as a £6000 Acoustic Solid Wood Round MPX Turntable (https://hifiplus.com/articles/acoustic-solid-wood-round-mpx-turntable/)
The only turntable with a retractable light is a 1200 now, and they now use LED instead. So much cheaper to use an RCA and an LED, plus you can steer it, too 🙂
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Numark makes (made) a few good TT's as well and they also have the non-retractable RCA sockets for a light. Steer-able as kodabmx notes, and the removable light is as useful as a retractable light (when transporting). But, you do need to keep track of it so it does not get lost.
Some people here know I'm an older respectable and experienced service technician.
And I should be, after 4+ decades of doing it.
Now mind you, I'm not patting myself on the back, my past customers have already done that.
But this is about what irks me about some people who post youtube videos and don't know crap about what they're doing.
Thus, making people believe in their blabber talk, and adding to the hoardes of "misinformation" on the net.
I just really hate all the garbage going around, and yes, I know not everyone's a "perfect tech" with experience, I've made a few boo-boo's through the years.
________________________________________________________________________________________
This recent repair I did tonight was on my 1991 era Technics SL-PG100 CD player.....(an excellent performer BTW)
It occasionally skipped, usually as a track was ending, or sometimes having a hard time reading and playing the first track.
This is because of a couple of 1uF caps easily replaced on the servo board.
One concerns the RF signal feed, and the other controls the AGC factor.
Once these are replaced, and the "best eye" adjustment done, it's flawless again.
HOWEVER, some dude on You Tube makes claims about the same skipping issue, and needing a new platter motor and lubing.
Utter Nonsense!
So this dude butchered up an SL-PG100 right there on his video, I got sick watching it.
One thing, if you don't have the proper equipment, don't attempt messing with a CD player.
For that matter, anything else!
His conclusion was to haul it to the junk pile, when IF he had the knowledge about those two caps, the thing would have been playable.
Here's his garbage video.... and I may even log on there and add my two cents to alert others so that they get the correct information and call that non-tech out on his garbage video.
Too much garbage out there, honestly.
And I should be, after 4+ decades of doing it.
Now mind you, I'm not patting myself on the back, my past customers have already done that.
But this is about what irks me about some people who post youtube videos and don't know crap about what they're doing.
Thus, making people believe in their blabber talk, and adding to the hoardes of "misinformation" on the net.
I just really hate all the garbage going around, and yes, I know not everyone's a "perfect tech" with experience, I've made a few boo-boo's through the years.
________________________________________________________________________________________
This recent repair I did tonight was on my 1991 era Technics SL-PG100 CD player.....(an excellent performer BTW)
It occasionally skipped, usually as a track was ending, or sometimes having a hard time reading and playing the first track.
This is because of a couple of 1uF caps easily replaced on the servo board.
One concerns the RF signal feed, and the other controls the AGC factor.
Once these are replaced, and the "best eye" adjustment done, it's flawless again.
HOWEVER, some dude on You Tube makes claims about the same skipping issue, and needing a new platter motor and lubing.
Utter Nonsense!
So this dude butchered up an SL-PG100 right there on his video, I got sick watching it.
One thing, if you don't have the proper equipment, don't attempt messing with a CD player.
For that matter, anything else!
His conclusion was to haul it to the junk pile, when IF he had the knowledge about those two caps, the thing would have been playable.
Here's his garbage video.... and I may even log on there and add my two cents to alert others so that they get the correct information and call that non-tech out on his garbage video.
Too much garbage out there, honestly.
UPDATE:
as per the video I posted about the so-called (wannabe) youtube tech butchering up that poor CD player, I added my comment, tastefully of course, to let others know that not everything you see or hear online is absolute truth.
Alas, it's a never ending task, and likely ignored or disputed anyway.
as per the video I posted about the so-called (wannabe) youtube tech butchering up that poor CD player, I added my comment, tastefully of course, to let others know that not everything you see or hear online is absolute truth.
Alas, it's a never ending task, and likely ignored or disputed anyway.
Well, there's gold in them thar hills. People get rich making garbage videos. So not only are peoples discriminators way off, somebody's actually payin' money for it. This is where I decided I dont fit in today's world - unless of course I record and market a series of "Old guy freaks out on the bench tonight" where one could only imagine the necessary content to keep that payin' crowd entertained.
Sadly, I have to agree with you about that.
Making money isn't a bad thing, but aquiring it with greedy intentions and mis-information at the expense of others is just wrong.
I'm replacing filter caps on a power supply board I built years ago. I built a board with an RLC filter and LM317/337 regulators for use with line level circuits. It finally found a permanent home in my preamp. It was built with NOS parts (except for the chips) (ten years ago) and the big caps were "ACON' brand. One of them was crooked on the board and wobbly. When I removed it one of the leads was pulling out of the cap and (not surprisingly) the bottom was starting to bulge. I had noticed that the vents by the board were getting a little warm, which they never did before. The unit still worked fine, with no apparent degradation of performance.
I'm replacing them with Nichicon caps that I keep in stock. Physically smaller and lighter, with premium specs (high ripple current, 105 degrees C temp rating, 5000 hour service rating) so I'll probably never have to worry again. I'm going to blow the inside clean before testing and putting it back together.
I'm replacing them with Nichicon caps that I keep in stock. Physically smaller and lighter, with premium specs (high ripple current, 105 degrees C temp rating, 5000 hour service rating) so I'll probably never have to worry again. I'm going to blow the inside clean before testing and putting it back together.
I built up a USB PC based 20 mega samples scope pcb.
On test it had noise on a test sine wave.
Turned out to be a dry joint on a2d converter.
On test it had noise on a test sine wave.
Turned out to be a dry joint on a2d converter.
Nice. Today I'll replace an IN13 indicator tube in the preamp and reverse the phase of the transformer outputs (It's inverting now).
Then I'll mount and align an Ortofon SuperOM cartridge on a turntable... I need a bloody jewelers eyepiece to see the thing these days!
Then I'll mount and align an Ortofon SuperOM cartridge on a turntable... I need a bloody jewelers eyepiece to see the thing these days!
I used to run a mobile disco and used vinyl for many years.
Used to have a few problems in some venues with needles jumping even with extra weight.
Things improved a bit when CD players came along but sometimes had CD's skipping even with a new CD player.
I then used a laptop with a USB DAC and it was a god send.
I now rarely have a problem, maybe the odd pc crash.
My Norelco/Philips rotary shaver. The internal soldered-in rechargeable battery wore out,
and I replaced it with a Panasonic Eneloop battery. The Eneloop terminals took to solder well,
and now the shaver works perfectly. It's the only kind of shaver that I can stand to use, and
new equivalent ones are expensive. Their cheaper new shavers are not nearly as good because
of poor head design.
and I replaced it with a Panasonic Eneloop battery. The Eneloop terminals took to solder well,
and now the shaver works perfectly. It's the only kind of shaver that I can stand to use, and
new equivalent ones are expensive. Their cheaper new shavers are not nearly as good because
of poor head design.
Today I added a switch to the phono section so allow for using 6N2 or 6N1 in the first position.
I also reduced the gain of the line amp with a couple of resistors.
I also fixed a wiring error that reversed stereo but not balance control (swapped left and right internally off of the input board).
I also reduced the gain of the line amp with a couple of resistors.
I also fixed a wiring error that reversed stereo but not balance control (swapped left and right internally off of the input board).
I got the new carb in for my mountain bike.
Got the time this lovely afternoon to do the install on that 4-stroke engine.
After a few issues (isn't that awlays the case?) and the usual carb adjustments (idle speed/fuel mix) it runs better than it ever did.
The one issue was - I snapped a bolt that holds the engine platform to the seat tube, but a Dremel groove and a screwdriver took care of that.
And yikes, a lousy gallon of mid-grade (89 octane) cost me a hefty $5.64 here.
Got the time this lovely afternoon to do the install on that 4-stroke engine.
After a few issues (isn't that awlays the case?) and the usual carb adjustments (idle speed/fuel mix) it runs better than it ever did.
The one issue was - I snapped a bolt that holds the engine platform to the seat tube, but a Dremel groove and a screwdriver took care of that.
And yikes, a lousy gallon of mid-grade (89 octane) cost me a hefty $5.64 here.
My ancient Yamaha CDC-585 5 disc changer would only open its tray half way, making it unusable. I was going to bin it - it's about 18 years old - but thought I'd have a go at fixing it.
I unplugged it, removed the cover and tried moving the tray manually; didn't work. However, in doing that I saw that a small piece had broken off one of the plastic runners which holds the tray and the tray was catching on it when it tried to moved. So I smoothed off the broken piece with a ile and it worked again. Repair cost: nothing!
Geoff
I unplugged it, removed the cover and tried moving the tray manually; didn't work. However, in doing that I saw that a small piece had broken off one of the plastic runners which holds the tray and the tray was catching on it when it tried to moved. So I smoothed off the broken piece with a ile and it worked again. Repair cost: nothing!
Geoff
Best to smear a spare bit of Super Lube on those sliding parts of the Yamaha CD tray.
Also any mechanisms that slide like the lifting mech.
I did both my Technics, and the trays slide nice and smooth.
Also any mechanisms that slide like the lifting mech.
I did both my Technics, and the trays slide nice and smooth.
Use a spirit level, see the thing is sitting flat on the shelf.
The CD changers need it, or they wear on one side, and start sticking.
Use newspaper or thin cardboard for shims.
The CD changers need it, or they wear on one side, and start sticking.
Use newspaper or thin cardboard for shims.
Garrard zero 100 SB. Automatic size selection was stuck, due to old grease.
12. juni 2022
19. juni 2022
Garrard zero 100 SB
12. juni 2022
19. juni 2022
Garrard zero 100 SB