Replaced kitchen to half-bath door. It was a lot of work, and I'm still working on it. The old door was a pocket door. Sounds cool, but we always had trouble with it. Then eventually the track pullies broke, and I could not find 1974 replacement hardware. So.....
Removed pocket door and all hardware, reframed wall and door frame to accommodate regular hinged door (without removing drywall,) primed and painted door and frame before insert, inserted pre-hung solid door, spent way too long shimming it (but it simply floats open and closed!,) trimmed kitchen side and painted trim and entire wall. Now it's onto the bathroom side with a minor bathroom makeover.
Removed pocket door and all hardware, reframed wall and door frame to accommodate regular hinged door (without removing drywall,) primed and painted door and frame before insert, inserted pre-hung solid door, spent way too long shimming it (but it simply floats open and closed!,) trimmed kitchen side and painted trim and entire wall. Now it's onto the bathroom side with a minor bathroom makeover.
I had two broken pocket doors in my house. One was off the track and the other had a newspaper stuffed behind it (?) so it wouldn't open. I removed both doors, which was pretty tricky to do; I had to cut one door narrower (just a little bit cause I was putting it back) to get it out.
One of the doors is to the bathroom off the kitchen and there is already a situation there with two other doors interfering with each other, so installing a conventional door on the bathroom was out of the question. The other separates the dining room from the kitchen and I didn't want to get rid of it, so I fixed it.
Predictably this involved a lot of remodeling, plus plaster repair because a lot of it came down when I pried the trim off. But is all done and looks and works great.
One of the doors is to the bathroom off the kitchen and there is already a situation there with two other doors interfering with each other, so installing a conventional door on the bathroom was out of the question. The other separates the dining room from the kitchen and I didn't want to get rid of it, so I fixed it.
Predictably this involved a lot of remodeling, plus plaster repair because a lot of it came down when I pried the trim off. But is all done and looks and works great.
I ended up putting in a bunch of pocket doors in the last remodel. There were three doors converging at the same point in space (from 3 different time periods, causing an anti-time reaction and thus disrupting the beginnings of life on Earth). The only place to put them so that didn’t happen was inside @#$&* wall. One of them comes off the track regularly, but still less hassle than it was with door doors. It would help if the hall were more than 32” wide, but it’s sort of stuck there.
We had pocket doors installed when we remodeled the library -- the grandkids would run them off the tracks until I velcro'd a furring strip to keep them in place when the smallfry come over.
Repair, maybe??
Light in the oven burned out. Last time I faced this, it was a 40W incandescent "appliance bulb" that just unscrewed, with maybe a glass cover.
Well the cover on the oven ceiling came off but is smaller than a 40W bulb. There's a "button" I can hardly see (laying on knees looking up). Argh! RTFM!! Turns out to be a halogen bi-pin that just pulls out. (I was afraid to try.) Now what? It is 50W 130V and 99% of the bi-pins I find are 12V, or 20W, or not true bi-pin.
The 20W are for microwave ovens. The box is smaller and white inside. Our real-oven is large with grey porcelan innards, so needs more than 20W.
We bought the oven from a longtime local family store so I will see if they stock the special bulbs.
And NO I am not asking for help. Just complaining about too-clever designers. The day I can't score a replacement lamp, I'll just curse a dark candle.
Light in the oven burned out. Last time I faced this, it was a 40W incandescent "appliance bulb" that just unscrewed, with maybe a glass cover.
Well the cover on the oven ceiling came off but is smaller than a 40W bulb. There's a "button" I can hardly see (laying on knees looking up). Argh! RTFM!! Turns out to be a halogen bi-pin that just pulls out. (I was afraid to try.) Now what? It is 50W 130V and 99% of the bi-pins I find are 12V, or 20W, or not true bi-pin.
The 20W are for microwave ovens. The box is smaller and white inside. Our real-oven is large with grey porcelan innards, so needs more than 20W.
We bought the oven from a longtime local family store so I will see if they stock the special bulbs.
And NO I am not asking for help. Just complaining about too-clever designers. The day I can't score a replacement lamp, I'll just curse a dark candle.
Like PRR, I also once had a "bulb issue".
But this was in my 2003 Sharp Carousel microwave oven.
They used a 25W bulb, that looks like a bi-pin bayonet, except - it has two permanent .25" push-on terminals!
Screw that!
I modded the thing with a REAL bi-pin socket and easily replaceable bulb.
But this was in my 2003 Sharp Carousel microwave oven.
They used a 25W bulb, that looks like a bi-pin bayonet, except - it has two permanent .25" push-on terminals!
Screw that!
I modded the thing with a REAL bi-pin socket and easily replaceable bulb.
If you do not use it much, and the halogen has lasted a long time, just buy two, keep one as a spare.
I know you didn't need help, but they're a dollar each...
https://www.amazon.ca/VSTAR-10pcs-Halogen-40-Watt-120-Volt/dp/B018JZ3O5A/
Surprised you didn't go LED in a Microwave 🙂
https://www.amazon.ca/Halogen-Equivalent-Landscape-Ceiling-Flicker/dp/B08FHR8LPQ
RF shielding issues.
Could fry the electronics.
Need to use a driver outside the chamber.
LED whiskers may not stand up, though I have not seen the lights in the new microwaves, mine is from 1997, ordinary filament lamp.
And top location in ordinary convection oven means a high temperature, so LED not advisable.
Could fry the electronics.
Need to use a driver outside the chamber.
LED whiskers may not stand up, though I have not seen the lights in the new microwaves, mine is from 1997, ordinary filament lamp.
And top location in ordinary convection oven means a high temperature, so LED not advisable.
In my microwave, the bulb is behind a metal screen - It looks like a C7... I figured it kept microwaves out of that section... I assume they don't make high temperature LEDs for inside ovens yet...
It also functions as a splash screen for liquids, and a finger guard, if somebody touches a bare hot bulb...big issues.
This, as said, is a convection oven, REAL HEAT. When we broil pizza any LED would vaporize.
Microwave ovens are easy.
The halogen did not shock me because the box is so well insulated that a standard incandescent might suffer. Makes sense.
Those dollar bulbs are too dim and totally wrong pins.
Microwave ovens are easy.
The halogen did not shock me because the box is so well insulated that a standard incandescent might suffer. Makes sense.
Those dollar bulbs are too dim and totally wrong pins.
My oven uses a Halogen, too... I think it's just because it makes more light for the size. 25W bipin...
It's one of these, and they are 40% off right now. I find it works better than the Breville it replaced that cost triple the money... My only complaint is you can't seemingly turn off the fan.
https://www.calmdo.com/collections/toaster-ovens/products/calmdo-hot-air-fryer-25-l
It's one of these, and they are 40% off right now. I find it works better than the Breville it replaced that cost triple the money... My only complaint is you can't seemingly turn off the fan.
https://www.calmdo.com/collections/toaster-ovens/products/calmdo-hot-air-fryer-25-l
Halogen is generally quartz glass, stands high temperature and thermal shock better.
I have seen Chinese Halogens with iffy glass....
Went shopping for a head lamp bulb, got an Osram 130/100W for 200 Rupees.
Chinese were 150, and no stock of Indian made, one local factory was claimed to be closed...
Standard was 60/55W, and 100/90Wis an upgrade.
Needs a relay circuit as after market installation.
130/100W is a bigger upgrade.
I have seen Chinese Halogens with iffy glass....
Went shopping for a head lamp bulb, got an Osram 130/100W for 200 Rupees.
Chinese were 150, and no stock of Indian made, one local factory was claimed to be closed...
Standard was 60/55W, and 100/90Wis an upgrade.
Needs a relay circuit as after market installation.
130/100W is a bigger upgrade.
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Ya I hear you there... I can get replacement HID bulbs for the BMW for 30$ a pair from China, but I bought the Osrams for almost 200$... I trust Chinese stuff most of the time - the oven I listen above for instance... Not the HID bulbs in the car though - too many stories of shorts taking out the FRM.
Toy. We can put the whole Corgi, and a Pyr-head, in our 30" GE convection range and make gravy on top.
That's the new model, in 2010 the glasstop was speckle-white.
You can see the reflection of the lamp on the door.
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You guys inspired me...to at least look at what it would take. My GE 2 cu ft / 16" platter unit requires one to remove the cover, in order to service the lightbulb. One customer in a HD product review thread commented getting the light bulb replaced - as a service - would cost as much as the whole microwave.
The only thing I need to see in there is if the works are turning. 99% of the time they are and for those times when a particular repeating clunk tells me 3 bowls have hung up, I'll just peer through the front screen using a flashlight.
Like the dental assistant does when taking xrays, I like to step away from the thing when its running. 1200 watts inside; how many a couple-few feet in front of the door? I'm sure whatever it is that seals the door when shut is perfect.
The only thing I need to see in there is if the works are turning. 99% of the time they are and for those times when a particular repeating clunk tells me 3 bowls have hung up, I'll just peer through the front screen using a flashlight.
Like the dental assistant does when taking xrays, I like to step away from the thing when its running. 1200 watts inside; how many a couple-few feet in front of the door? I'm sure whatever it is that seals the door when shut is perfect.