You're never too old to learn new things 
So far my foray into microcontrollers has been Arduino making the light blink faster
One day, I'd like to use one to control I/O on an amp, and perhaps volume control. I'm thinking pi though, since I'd like to be able to control it from an Andriod app or over bluetooth/wifi, and have a touchscreen interface on the amp Until someone makes a kit for that, it'll be a pipe dream for me I think.
So far my foray into microcontrollers has been Arduino making the light blink faster
One day, I'd like to use one to control I/O on an amp, and perhaps volume control. I'm thinking pi though, since I'd like to be able to control it from an Andriod app or over bluetooth/wifi, and have a touchscreen interface on the amp
Until someone makes a kit for that, it'll be a pipe dream for me I think.I became a victim of the grenade plate in the clutch of one of my Harleys. The brass rivets that hold the two plates together failed, so now I have the primary drive all apart and I'm waiting on a new clutch basket to arrive so that I can finish the extra plate BDL conversion. That failure put a deep groove all around the basket, and it's beyond filling out. If any of you have a clutch setup with the rivet plates, do yourself a favor and put a new extra plate kit in before it grenades. What should have been 2 hours turned into more time, money, and a headache vs a preemptive strike against a known crap design. Glenn.
VW had a similar "self machining transmission" issue with some of their 020 gearboxes in the 80's.
"Those transmissions built with serial numbers up to 14102 (gearboxes
up to October 14, 1982) have snap rings installed on the differential pinion
shafts. Those boxes do not usually have any problems. Cars with the wide-
ratio gearboxes do not seem to have the problem.
The cars affected include GTIs and GLIs from 1983 to 1986 (both A1
and A2 chassis), 8-valve Sciroccos from 1983 to 1986, and 1984 to 1986
Cabriolets. These cars had close-ratio gear boxes starting with serial
number 15102 (gearboxes built after October 14, 1982) and up, and did not
have the snap rings installed. The grooves are still there, but apparently
some engineer at VW dreamed up the idea of using a larger head on one of
the rivets as a retainer and doing away with the 15 cent circlips. The
special rivet is simply not able to properly retain the pinion shafts.
Under even normal driving conditions, there's a chance that the pinion
shaft works itself out, let's things tilt around and eventually machines
a hole in the transmission case. Shop supervisor Paul Boot at New Dimensions
said that most of the failures they've seen occur between the 50,000 and
120,000 mile mark.
One somewhat limp "cure" that VW has incorporated is to use rivets
with a thicker head. This still won't provide the positive location of the
shaft afforded by the circlips, but at least it takes longer for the pinion
shaft to pound it's way through.
No one we've talked to has taken apart a late-model non-16v close-
ratio box, so we're not sure if VW continued with the rivets or has returned
to using the circlips. On the gearboxes used with 16v motors, VW has
resorted to using the circlips again.
For VW's service differential repair kit (#171-498-088) used when
replacing the ring & pinion (either when changing ratios or as a service
replacement) the rivets are replaced. The kit included eight studs and
nuts (to be used in place of the rivets), washers, retaining bracket -
and two circlips."
http://www.scirocco.org/list/archives/1997/November/msg00115.html
"Those transmissions built with serial numbers up to 14102 (gearboxes
up to October 14, 1982) have snap rings installed on the differential pinion
shafts. Those boxes do not usually have any problems. Cars with the wide-
ratio gearboxes do not seem to have the problem.
The cars affected include GTIs and GLIs from 1983 to 1986 (both A1
and A2 chassis), 8-valve Sciroccos from 1983 to 1986, and 1984 to 1986
Cabriolets. These cars had close-ratio gear boxes starting with serial
number 15102 (gearboxes built after October 14, 1982) and up, and did not
have the snap rings installed. The grooves are still there, but apparently
some engineer at VW dreamed up the idea of using a larger head on one of
the rivets as a retainer and doing away with the 15 cent circlips. The
special rivet is simply not able to properly retain the pinion shafts.
Under even normal driving conditions, there's a chance that the pinion
shaft works itself out, let's things tilt around and eventually machines
a hole in the transmission case. Shop supervisor Paul Boot at New Dimensions
said that most of the failures they've seen occur between the 50,000 and
120,000 mile mark.
One somewhat limp "cure" that VW has incorporated is to use rivets
with a thicker head. This still won't provide the positive location of the
shaft afforded by the circlips, but at least it takes longer for the pinion
shaft to pound it's way through.
No one we've talked to has taken apart a late-model non-16v close-
ratio box, so we're not sure if VW continued with the rivets or has returned
to using the circlips. On the gearboxes used with 16v motors, VW has
resorted to using the circlips again.
For VW's service differential repair kit (#171-498-088) used when
replacing the ring & pinion (either when changing ratios or as a service
replacement) the rivets are replaced. The kit included eight studs and
nuts (to be used in place of the rivets), washers, retaining bracket -
and two circlips."
http://www.scirocco.org/list/archives/1997/November/msg00115.html
It would be a great thing if the companies would just admit that a bad design, is just that, and make the simple fix change on future models, but that seems to be too much for the bean counters. At least once I get this swapped, it will be set up to handle a load more power if I change the cams and heads. I really dug those old Scirocco models. I had a couple of friends that had them, and they were very fun to take through the twisties. Glenn.
I fixed my old headphone amp yesterday. The volume control had become very scratchy in the right channel. A little poking around found one of the input caps leaking DC. This is a single ended power supply circuit so there's significant DC to block. Anyway, new input caps (I had NOS exact replacement same batch as original) and new volume control (Bourns "A" weighted exact replacement) and no more scratch. I put it together with a "new" volume control dial (I have a million of them all different types) and it's good as new.
Harley also is regarded as a pretender here, they closed shop, hardly any sales.
Terrible quality, high fuel consumption.
And the cheapest model was $11,000 or so IIRC.
Leaks in fuel hoses, rusting, drive issues...
Rubber parts cracked in the Indian heat, and service costs were like $200.
The price here is $10 or so for a normal wash and lube change at the dealer.
Outside, $3 plus materials like oil and filter if needed.
Suzuki scooters have a miniature oil filter, can type, similar to those on cars.
Terrible quality, high fuel consumption.
And the cheapest model was $11,000 or so IIRC.
Leaks in fuel hoses, rusting, drive issues...
Rubber parts cracked in the Indian heat, and service costs were like $200.
The price here is $10 or so for a normal wash and lube change at the dealer.
Outside, $3 plus materials like oil and filter if needed.
Suzuki scooters have a miniature oil filter, can type, similar to those on cars.
Screw those Harley's - another overhyped overpriced marketing statement.
Back in 1994, I decided to enter the "Toys For Tots" cycle ride, which provides sick children gifts in hospitals.
I loaded up my Honda with stuffed toys that I won from a local bar's claw machine, a dozen cute stuffed toys.
As I was backing into position for the run, some guy with a Harley yelled to me: "Just pick it up!"
A real smart mouth idiot.
Halfway to the hospital, his beloved Harley broke down and blew smoke - and as I passed him I yelled: take it to the junkyard!"
Me, in 1994....at the cycle event - I was 41 back then.
Back in 1994, I decided to enter the "Toys For Tots" cycle ride, which provides sick children gifts in hospitals.
I loaded up my Honda with stuffed toys that I won from a local bar's claw machine, a dozen cute stuffed toys.
As I was backing into position for the run, some guy with a Harley yelled to me: "Just pick it up!"
A real smart mouth idiot.
Halfway to the hospital, his beloved Harley broke down and blew smoke - and as I passed him I yelled: take it to the junkyard!"
Me, in 1994....at the cycle event - I was 41 back then.
I still have a Kawasaki, and a Yamaha, and I've had multiple Suzuki, Honda, and Triumph. I love both my Harleys, and I agree that people can be idiotic. My 96 1200 Sportster has been a great bike, outside of the clutch issue and my 103 6speed has been flawless. I've put over 40,000 miles on each of the Harleys, and until I blew up the clutch, the only things that I have had to replace were tires, brake pads, fluids, and 1 reg/rec. They both have been every bit as reliable as any of my Japanese machines, and with the right tools, they're easy to work on. I don't baby them when I ride them, but I keep them maintained so there's less chance of a breakdown, or an unsafe machine. My old Triumph T 140V was the worst machine that I have ever owned, as far as constant maintenance. I put 65,000 miles on one of my Hondas, then sold it to a buddy, and it still purrs today with 80,000 plus on it. Certain Harleys are very reliable, but I am no fan of corporate Harley, and I never buy new bikes. Glenn.
A few years back my son got a Harley Sportster 883, new to him and new to me. I used to help with the routine maintenance and on the first oil change we had trouble locating the "drain plug". Turns out it doesn't have one and oil is drained through a small rubber hose, dangling under the crankcase, with a pinch clamp at the end. Seems vulnerable to damage and complete BS if you ask me.
Today, I went to turn on my light bulb amp but the relay just clicked... Some troubleshooting lead to some bad caps on the output of the SMPS. 1000µF/35V but one tested as 27pF LOL The voltage across them is only 12V so I replaced then with 16V polymer caps.
Then there was some arcing on turn on... Turns out the IEC/fuse holder combo (which I never use but there was already one in the case) melted and deformed. Replaced it with a normal IEC and a fuse holder and all is well again.
Funny thing is I looked into replacing the caps with the best ones I could find that would fit (6000 hour, 105°C by Würth) but the cost for two caps shipped is more than the cost of the entire supply! 12$ but I got the PSU for 9$...
Then there was some arcing on turn on... Turns out the IEC/fuse holder combo (which I never use but there was already one in the case) melted and deformed. Replaced it with a normal IEC and a fuse holder and all is well again.
Funny thing is I looked into replacing the caps with the best ones I could find that would fit (6000 hour, 105°C by Würth) but the cost for two caps shipped is more than the cost of the entire supply! 12$ but I got the PSU for 9$...
No access, unless you take the engine out. No longer an issue since we sold it. I just didn't like that part the design. Rest of the bike was solid.